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Tech Tips

Tech Corner: UCE Lubrication

Tech Tips

For the UCE engines I am starting a series covering some of the design aspects. We are starting with the lubrication system for no particular reason other than the fact that we got a really cool video and slide presentation from the factory today (shown below).

Royal Enfield was the first motorcycle with a dry sump oiling system. In short this meant that the crankcase was empty and the oil is stored in a tank (internal to the engine). Pressurized oil is fed to the critical components and drops into the crank crankcase where it is picked up by a second oil pump and sent to the head. In a wet sump system like the new UCE engines the crankcase is full of oil. When the engine starts a pump picks up the oil, pumps it through a filter and then directs it to different areas under pressure. Because the clutch and transmission are all part of the engine case they all run in the same oil. The real advantage is that in the UCE we can move a lot more oil under a higher pressure than we could in the oil machines.

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Tech Corner: Carburetor Troubleshooting (Classic)

Tech Tips

Note: this is a Tech Corner: Classic Edition article pertaining to the traditional Iron-Barrel Bullet 500 engine design (based on the 1955 model Bullet). It was originally published in our Bullet-In newsletter in December 2003. These articles are being re-published for the new audience of used Royal Enfield owners.

Originally published 12/2003 – Earlier this week, the boys (actually young men) in our shop were converting my bike from the “Twingle” back to a single-exhaust 535 and couldn’t get it started. When they turned on the fuel, it would pour out of the overflow hoses. They assumed (as did I) that the float was stuck in the open position. This can often be resolved by a swift tap to the carburetor bowl. However, when no amount of “tapping” slowed the fuel down, I had them remove the carburetor and replace the needle and seat. These do need to be replaced occasionally and this is why it’s a good idea to get in the habit of turning off your fuel tap when the bike is not in use.
After replacing the needle and seat, the bike still wouldn’t start but was not overflowing. I felt the bowl and since it wasn’t cold, I checked to see if it had fuel in it. It did not. Again we tried the tapping method to see if it had jammed slightly when the bowl was reinstalled. We had no luck. I had the boys remove the bowl and look for any obstruction to the floats. Seeing none, it occurred to me that we hadn’t reset the float bowl height. This is a commonly overlooked procedure.
In short, you remove the carburetor and its bowl and turn them upside down. According to the factory specification, the distance from the face of the float bowl to the top of the inverted float should be between 28 and 30mm. I personally prefer to set it between 26 and 28mm. If it is too high or too low you can bend the tang on the float bowl where it touches the needle to adjust the height. Be very careful not to apply pressure to the needle and risk damaging it when doing this adjustment.
Sure enough, this cured our problem. The float had been set too high and was cutting off the flow of fuel before the float bowl had the proper amount in it. The wrong float height setting can also cause your bike to run too rich or too lean. So the next time you have the carburetor off or replace the needle and seat be sure to check it.

Earlier this week, the boys (actually young men) in our shop were converting my bike from the “Twingle” back to a single-exhaust 535 and couldn’t get it started. When they turned on the fuel, it would pour out of the overflow hoses. They assumed (as did I) that the float was stuck in the open position. This can often be resolved by a swift tap to the carburetor bowl. However, when no amount of “tapping” slowed the fuel down, I had them remove the carburetor and replace the needle and seat. These do need to be replaced occasionally and this is why it’s a good idea to get in the habit of turning off your fuel tap when the bike is not in use…

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Spring Maintenance Tips (or Ignore me now and ride later… much later)

Tech Tips

I can tell from the Royal Enfield chat boards that I participate in that spring has sprung for many of you and it is time to ride.

Time to talk about Spring maintenance. You are one of two kinds of people, those that washed and waxed your bike, lubed everything, put new oil in it, used fuel stabilizer and put your battery on a Batter Tender, covered your bike, put it away in a nice, dry and maybe even warm place… or you’re one who just plain put it away, rode hard until the last hours and then put it up wet (so to speak). The first group knows the drill and are probably already out riding as we speak enjoying the attention that only the Royal Enfield brings. I can tell from the chat boards the rest of you are scratching your head and wondering what happened over the winter… “but it was fine when I put it away” is a commonly-heard refrain. For this group I will try to get you back on the right track with some Spring maintenance and tune-up advice.

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EFI Made Easy

Tech Tips

Electronic Fuel Injection or EFI can be very intimidating to the uninitiated but I think I can tell you everything you need to know to take care of the system on your new EFI Royal Enfield in one short article.

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Preparing Your Motorcycle For Winter

Tech Tips

OK I guess I have to give it up. It is so cold here today that I can’t put off the topic of winterization another day. Here are some tips that I’ve picked up over the years for properly storing your bike for the winter.

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Enfield in Twighlight