Tire Repair ?

[TWinOKC]

What to do about a flat (assume the best) tire goes flat at home.  

Does flat fix / tire sealer really work or is it never to be used?

I know some rims are a real PIA to get the tire off, is a RE one better left to professionals with special tools?  

Is it okay to patch the tube or is it better to replace it every time for safety reasons?

Thanks

[1Blackwolf1]

  can't use it on a spoke tire rim.  Remove the wheel and break down the tire and patch/replace the tube.  The standard cheapy tire irons will do the trick if you are patient.  Also make sure you check for damage to the tire (wear leather gloves) and rim strip.  Or you can just take it to a bike shop and they can do the job.

  Welcome to the community. 

[ToesNose]

  Taking it to the bike shop is obviously the easiest, but if you do it yourself at home leisurely when you aren't stuck in the middle of nowhere it will be a great learning experience.  Worst case scenario you get frustrated and just bring it to the tire shop LOL 
   If you are going to do it yourself for the first time just do a search, there are plenty of great posts on changing/repairing the tube here on the forums 

[olhogrider]

They sell Slime brand sealer for tube types but it is a preventive measure. You put it in before the flat. A nail in a tube will usually trash the tube before you can get the bike stopped. A spare tube is the best solution but if it is one small puncture, a patch on the tube can get you home. Some brands and sizes of tires are easy to remove from the rim, others seem impossible. If you think you may be in an area where towing is not an option, you should try pulling the rear wheel and tube while at home. Have a spare tube handy in case you pinch the original one. There are some bead popping tools out there too. I have carried a large heavy C-clamp for this purpose. Also, you know about the solo seat Bullet shortcut? The fender swings up!

[DNash]

I just recently had to repair a leaky rear tube to get the bike ready to sell. I used the Slime brand sealer for tube-type tyres, aired up the tube (on its own - outside the wheel) and rolled it around a bit to slather the sealant around the inside. I've got two new tubes on the way, but that fix was enough to get her back on the road, though probably just enough for short jaunts around the block. I don't think I'd take her anywhere on a fix like that - unless it was to a tyre shop.

(Oh, and the gentleman who bought my Enfield is aware of the repair, and of the inbound replacement tubes, which I offered to install for him when they get in.)

[TWinOKC]

Thanks for the replies, I stumbled onto this video on you tube that is specific to the RE bullet.  Some good information.  Never tried to post a link on here before, hope it works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJL8pBXBp3Y

[Ice]

Link works 


 Puncture repair is easy enough. Helps if you practice a bit. Any old wheel salvaged from a scrap pile or donor bike will suffice as a training aid.

[DNash]

Thanks for the replies, I stumbled onto this video on you tube that is specific to the RE bullet.  Some good information.  Never tried to post a link on here before, hope it works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJL8pBXBp3Y

That one's pretty good, and that's more or less what you have to do if you don't have a solo seat fitted, but check this out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3KkOgpuAQDU

On my previous bike, I had to remove the Sedona Solo seat to swing the mudguard up like that, but it was still far, far easier than trying to jimmy the wheel out from under the bike otherwise. On my "new" '01 Military, there's a little metal strip under both springs that interferes with the full range of motion of the mudguard, but it still swivels up a decent bit (I'm going to fiddle with the aforementioned strip when I have time, so that it doesn't block the mudguard anymore). With the stock dual seat, it might not be so easy (not sure, as I've never had the stock seat installed).

[ArmyAirborne]

Two weeks ago I had my rear go down on the way in to work. Luckily we have several trucks with lift gates and I was able have someone come pick me and the bike up.

Got to work and got the bike in the (air conditioned) garage and quickly found the trouble. The place where the stem joined the tube was rotten. Also in the time it took me to pull over to the side the rim band had torn and worked itself out. I had a spare tube and the Yamaha place had rim bands in stock but wanted $40 to do the work and it would take 3 days min so I decided to give it a shot.

Getting the bead off and one side of the tire off was easy, got the old tube and rim band remnants out no problem. Got the new tube in with a minimum of cursing. Slipping the bead back on though was a knuckle buster. Finally get it all back together and put some air in it only to find I must have pinched the damn tube while slipping the bead back over the rim.

After wrestling the bead back on I didn't have it in me to do it again so I found another shop that did it in exchange for a spin around the block on it once it was fixed (guy there was really impressed with the RE).

I picked up a replacement spare tube and rim band, and stand ready to try again at some point in the future, I just hope it's a long time from now because that was demoralizing.

[ToesNose]

A small bottle of Talc/Baby Powder on hand helps with the tube being able to move more freely and less likely to get pinched, also pick yourself up a good set of tire spoons if you don't have them already. Both will make changing the tire on the side of the road if you ever have to a lot more bearable 

[Rosetap]

I had to change my entire rear tire a few weeks ago, pretty simple, just takes some muscle.  I even used the stock spoons.

The whole job, from removing the tire to remounting it, would probably have taken 30-40 minutes total.  I, however, was being stubborn and refused to make up a soapy water solution until I got about halfway through and gave in.  Once I threw a few teaspoons of Dawn into a spray bottle with hot water, I was done in five minutes.  Soap or talcum powder really is required.

PROTIP: if you have the stock seat installed, you can remove the front two bolts on the stock seat, and remove the lower fender carrier bolts like in the video.  Then you lift the front of the stock seat up (it will swivel up on the back bolts) and then lift the fender.  This puts the front of the stock seat over the gas tank, so you may want to throw a rag on there so you don't accidentally scratch it.