C5 Fork Tutorial

[gremlin]

Does it look like one might drill out a couple of small drain holes in the sliders ?

[Ducati Scotty]

You could.  If I were to do it I'd drill on the rear along the fender/brake bracket on the lower slider, more meat there.  You'd have to flatten that area so the bolt would seal.  You'd still have to take the fork apart and drill the top caps so you can add oil.  I think the screws with o-rings that are in there would seal it just like on the G5.  Not sure why they didn't do that in the first place.

Scott

[jartist]

Funny, the G5 has the gear for draining the forks on the bike but I'm going to have to remove them before the fork oil needs changing to replace the gators that are rapidly deteriorating anyway.

[mattsz]

The "Service Manual"  lists 265+2.5 ccs in each leg for the C5 and G5, page 02-7
Bare

Thanks for the page reference, couldn't find it this morning.  And that's wrong for the C5.  The C5 take 195ml per leg.
Scott

My bad!! That was supposed to be B5 and G5!
Bare

Ok, glad we got that straightened out .

But - if the B5 has the same forks as the C5, does that imply that the B5 forks should also have 195 ml per leg?

[Ducati Scotty]

It does, BUT...

I believe the C5 fork is shorter overall than the G5, which could account for why we use less oil.  We need to get to a dealer and measure all three fork lengths.  Gotta see if the B5 is C5 style but G5 length. 

Also, just measure what comes out of a B5.  That might tell us a lot.

Scott

[bluesdaddy2]

To much confusion in the printed source material.  I'm going with the tried and true method of others before me......... (Thanks Scott).

Witness confusion here:
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,7829.msg168946.html#msg168946

[gremlin]

take the fork apart and drill the top caps so you can add oil.  I think the screws with o-rings that are in there would seal it just like on the G5.

If the top of the forktube is closed, and, I drill a hole in it; Will that allow airpressure to wedge in under the upper clamp and work the tube loose from the upper clamp?

Most Japenese tubes are threaded on the inside to retain this pressure.

[Ducati Scotty]

The upper tube is threaded on the inside just like any other fork.  The only difference is that the cap has an allen head instead of a standard hex.  There's also an o-ring on there like any other fork to seal it.

I don't see how drilling it is going to help anything.  It can take an ungodly amount of force to dislodge it the first time but drilling it won't help and will just put metal shavings in your fork valves.  Don't drill the cap while it's on the fork.

I may just have to do a video one day to make this all clear.  Not now, way too much going on with the holidays.

Scott

[mattsz]

I may just have to do a video one day to make this all clear.

Scott

I, for one, would not object!!! 

[shamelin]

Re the B5 fork- I think it's the same size as the C5.

Here's a pic I took of my spring when I changed out my fork oil.  I counted the turns of the spring, a hash at every 5th one, and it measures roughly 47 turns.  Looking at the pics from Scotty's spring, it's pretty darn close.

I figure if the spring's the same size, the fork's the same size.

I used 195mL of fork oil during my change and haven't had any problem with leaking. or sagging.

[JVS]

Shamelin, how much force did it take you to open/loosen the 12mm top cap? (Clockwise) I wasn't able to open either of the fork top caps with Hulk force applied 

[AgentX]

I had to get the caps off (the style with 28mm wrench flats) and only succeeded after, with an experienced mechanic's help, we whacked the caps a few times, using a big block of aluminum set atop the fork cap and striking it firmly with a big ball-peen hammer.

Very science-y method of doing it, I know.

[shamelin]

It was a struggle.  Here's how I overcame:

I picked up a long L-shaped 12mm hex wrench and cut the short end off, leaving a straight 12mm hex. I slipped the uncut end of the hex into the top cap. I then took a 12mm standard wrench and put it over the hex.  Using a second wrench, I wedged it into the crescent end of the first, increasing my leverage.  I then pushed and pulled with all my might, without much initial success.  Once I combined Spanish profanity with brute strength, it finally budged.

In retrospect, I probably didn't need to cut the hex wrench- I could have just slipped the wrench through the hex and then into the top cap, but it made it easier to adjust the wrench position for maximum leverage.  By far, getting the top cap off was the most difficult part of the job.

[JVS]

Wow guys. I must admit it was a huge struggle for myself. I mean, even with the pinch bolts very tight, the force I was applying started moving/turning the whole fork leg instead of the top cap.

Also tried holding the fork legs in between my legs and what not. Even took help from my grandfather but we couldn't even budge it, lol.

I will also need to use those 'science-y methods' the next time I try opening the cap. Will let you know how I go.

[Ducati Scotty]

I used a breaker bar and way more force than seemed prudent.  Giving them a few love taps is a really good idea.  I use that method on many fasteners.

Scott