I don't like the idea of my foot resting on the pedal in case the brake light is always on. I set the pedal back up to the stock position hoping for more braking power.
Baird 4444 is correct, but.....by having my wife put her enormous weight on the petal, the drum centered .
Actually, I had it adjusted lower to get it out of the way of my foot. I don't like the idea of my foot resting on the pedal in case the brake light is always on. I set the pedal back up to the stock position hoping for more braking power.The rear hub - where I assume the brake shoes are - seems puny. Not much diameter to it. If it was bigger the brakes might be better - but it's not so.Are there any aftermarket shoes that will improve the braking?
I am assuming these are right side brake pedals with a cross-over?I find the original left foot rear brake, left side rod really pretty good with only about 950 miles on the clock and done nil to it!I wonder if there is some torque flex etc in the cross over design?
Thats a lot of work . The stock size rear brake should not have any trouble at least skidding the rear tire if it worked correctly. Mine will not. I wonder if the bikes with left side brake pedal have the same trouble. The left side being more direct, without the twisting tube. I have not had the opportunity to open up the brake yet, but mine feels as though it has grease on it. Like I said earlier a brake just about that size works just fine on a 500lb XLH. So I doubt its the size thats the problem. It might be just the cam angles are wrong, limiting the leverage that they exert.
Rear drums of a similar size hae been used on more modern, heavier, and faster bike than the Bullet. Besides, the front brake is much more important to stopping power, that's why manufacturers went to front disks land before adding them to the back and why so many cars still have drums in the back.As long as it is properly adjusted the existing rear brake should provide ample stopping power.