HPRE

Menu

Members Rides

EFI Woodsman


in
Members Rides

Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
October 01, 2014, 04:26:17 PM

Login with username, password and session length

 

Author Topic: RE electricals  (Read 8987 times)

the_roadking

  • Neophyte
  • *
  • Posts: 35
  • Karma: 0
RE electricals
« on: March 21, 2008, 11:27:13 AM »
Is the RE Bullet electrical circuit strong enough to handle a motorcycle alarm?
Or a gps system feed from the battery?

Still about the alarm, is it posible to install on the Bullet, is there room enough?

dogbone

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 799
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2008, 01:39:45 PM »
GPS  would be a very low current draw, and would work well. Most of them plug into a lighter socket. If you don't have one, don't cut the plug off. Most units are lower voltage ( 6-9 volts dc ). connecting them directly will produce a smoke generator.
  An alarm is only as good as the installation. The capacity of the battery would determine the duration of operation. They draw a small current when armed, and will drain a battery (in good condition ) in 2-3 days. The siren will require the most current, and would probably only last 20-30 minutes. The Directed Electronics  Merlin 3000 is the most efficient system I've used.
99 Enfield Bullet 535
a man isn't drunk,if he can lie on the floor without hanging on

the_roadking

  • Neophyte
  • *
  • Posts: 35
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2008, 07:47:13 PM »
Thanks for all the info!  :D
Can you tell me if there is room to an alarm under the seat? Maybe near the coil...

The main idea is to have the alarm on only at night, no danger of steal during the day, riding it daily. I think the battery would be always charged.
The gps would be on the bike just for some long trips during my vacations. Again, I think there's no danger to the battery integrety.

But I have no idea how big and how strong is the oem RE battery. My previous bike (H-D XLH1200) haven't any trouble handling electrical extras. Just have to install 1 or 2 extra fuses and keep the wires simple amd clean.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2008, 03:21:54 PM by the_roadking »

scoTTy

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 2462
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2008, 02:44:02 AM »
wow Man the enField is small enough you could roll it in to your living room..  i rolled a BMW K1ooRS  N2 a motel roOm in souThwEsteRn USA..  i found good locks worked well... never had an alarm system in 40 + years of riding... other than my attitude ;) :D ;D :P ::)

geoffbaker

  • Guest
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2008, 03:42:58 AM »
I've been looking at the electrics for a different reason: as I am converting to a diesel I need to lower electrical consumption as the diesel electrical output is lower.

Solution: convert your running lights to LEDs. Converting the stock tail lamp running light will save you 5w of draw. Converting the pilot lights, speedo and ammeter lights gains another 6 or 7 watts. Converting the brakes and turn signals lowers intermittent draws.

I've rediced mine from 11 or 12 watts runnning draw to under a watt... I reckon I can now afford to charge my phone (which has a gps) as well as power a cylinder temperature meter and a datalogging motorcycle computer (the Veypor 2).

So I imagine you wouldn't have any problem with an alarm - with one exception... the alarm draws power all the time, and so its current draw will eventually drain the battery, depending on battery amperage and the alarm system current draw.

But what kind of evil bastard would steal an RE, anyway?

the_roadking

  • Neophyte
  • *
  • Posts: 35
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2008, 11:15:41 AM »
wow Man the enField is small enough you could roll it in to your living room..  i rolled a BMW K1ooRS  N2 a motel roOm in souThwEsteRn USA..  i found good locks worked well... never had an alarm system in 40 + years of riding... other than my attitude ;) :D ;D :P ::)

I live in a 1st store apartmente, no elevator...

 ::)

dogbone

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 799
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2008, 04:32:16 PM »
The siren is a compact unit on the Merlin,and could mount under the seat. As stated b-4, the alarm is only as good as the installation. If there are wires exposed, a low life,.  slimy bastard,cog sucking, thief could cut exposed wires. In most Bullets, there is room for the main module and the tilt switch in the toolbox There is enough capacity in the OEM battery for 2-3 days of battery life. If'n you have an electric start, You may get to try out the manual mode !
PS alarms are a royal pain. They false, usually at 3:00 am, And unlike a car,It's futile to do a starter kill.  Some have tried to disable the ignition, but if this malfunctioned, your engine dies. That may cause an accident.
 
99 Enfield Bullet 535
a man isn't drunk,if he can lie on the floor without hanging on

geoffbaker

  • Guest
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2008, 04:50:17 PM »
Rather than alarm, maybe consider a hidden kill switch. You can place it anywhere in the bike where you can get a finger... and you can't start the engine without it...

Of course, some good tamper resistant cable helps too.
I have my bike on a combo lock which passes through a cable which is welded to a bolt that passes through the wall of my carport.

But face it, if they want it, they can get it.
Good news though... it's a rare enough bike that they should be easier to trace than most bikes...

the_roadking

  • Neophyte
  • *
  • Posts: 35
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2008, 05:29:31 PM »
So they are H-D in Portugal and still they are stolen  :'(
The hidden switch is a good idea, I had one on my Roadking Classic.
I have a good strong chain and lock but still I'm afraid it's not enough.
The bad thing about the hidden switch is that they can put the bike on a van and drive away. At least with the alarm I have some noise to get attention...
But I don't wanna fry the battery  :-\

Ofcalipka

  • Just enjoying the ride.
  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 145
  • Karma: 0
  • Thumping through the Aloha State
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2008, 06:08:20 PM »
I don't like extra locks or kill switches.  I trust my Smith and Wesson security system.  It makes a loud bang when someone attempts to steal my bike and stops the theft immediately.  No draw whatsover on the bikes electrical system.
"There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot." - Steven Wright

2005 Royal Enfeild Bullet 500 Military,
2006 HD Springer softail 1450,
1980 Puch Maxi,
1995 Ural 650
1978 Peugeot 103 SP
2000 BMW R 1150 RT P

Wahiawa,  HI

the_roadking

  • Neophyte
  • *
  • Posts: 35
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2008, 06:57:10 PM »
I don't like extra locks or kill switches.  I trust my Smith and Wesson security system.  It makes a loud bang when someone attempts to steal my bike and stops the theft immediately.  No draw whatsover on the bikes electrical system.

I don't live in the far west, so that's not a option...

geoffbaker

  • Guest
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2008, 08:23:57 PM »
I'm not in favor of killing people, even if they are Republicans.

Try this, road_king

http://www.securitykit.com/alarm-motion50014.htm

It's an aftermarket siren which is activated if the cable is cut or motion is detected. No drain on the bike battery.

Ofcalipka

  • Just enjoying the ride.
  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 145
  • Karma: 0
  • Thumping through the Aloha State
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2008, 10:05:56 PM »
I'm just being silly for sillys sake.  Besides who says I can't shoot to wound only.
"There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot." - Steven Wright

2005 Royal Enfeild Bullet 500 Military,
2006 HD Springer softail 1450,
1980 Puch Maxi,
1995 Ural 650
1978 Peugeot 103 SP
2000 BMW R 1150 RT P

Wahiawa,  HI

geoffbaker

  • Guest
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #13 on: March 24, 2008, 10:48:28 PM »
That's fine, ofcaliplca...

I've got nothing against wounding Republicans :D

baird4444

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 2103
  • Karma: 0
  • 2003 ES 500... 38,416 miles, I'm done
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2008, 11:20:28 PM »
Why would you only wound one??

then again; why shoot'em?? There isn't much
meat on em...  just fat and gristle...
not very good eat'n... good fer gravy I guess...
« Last Edit: March 24, 2008, 11:23:15 PM by baird4444 »
"You can't drink all day if you don't start in the morning!! "
        -Cody Baird
'My dear you are ugly,
 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
 - Winston Churchill

geoffbaker

  • Guest
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #15 on: March 25, 2008, 02:47:23 PM »
They just make great rugs, baird...

Thumper

  • Psalm 23
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1065
  • Karma: 1
  • Classic Wannabe
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #16 on: March 25, 2008, 04:19:28 PM »
Shoot away. Republicans can't be hurt by mere bullets!

(Well, my RE did viciously kick me one time....)

geoffbaker

  • Guest
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #17 on: March 25, 2008, 05:54:44 PM »
But Thumper, thats only if the bullet lands between the ears...

 ;D

Lol, enough of the politics! No wish to offend anyone, OK?

the_roadking

  • Neophyte
  • *
  • Posts: 35
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2008, 10:36:09 PM »
The Bullet Electra (with EFI) have better/stronger electricals then the Classic, right?

bob bezin

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1171
  • Karma: 0
  • I ride therefore I am.
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #19 on: March 30, 2008, 01:08:02 PM »
dont know if there better but i have a 2006 delux  and have 3700 miles on it and hav'nt had many problems  I had to replace those little running light bulbs ( with slightly longer american ones ) and a starter seloniod (covered by the warrenty) everything els is fine.
2000 RE classic ,              56 matchless g80
2006 RE delux fireball       86 yamaha SRX 600
65 500cctriumph
04 bonnie black
71 750 norton.
48 whizzer

Huffer

  • Vespas fear me
  • Neophyte
  • *
  • Posts: 49
  • Karma: 0
  • I brake for . . . long distances
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #20 on: August 02, 2008, 07:38:48 AM »
I've heard democrats make good eating also. They're easy to kill because they don't put up a fight and they taste just like...CHICKEN!

2008 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Deluxe--last of the iron-barrel Bullets.
2008 Triumph Bonneville T100--last of the carburetted Bonnies.
1974 Norton Commando Roadster--last of the "proper" right side shift Commandos.

PhilJ

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 2247
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #21 on: August 02, 2008, 10:58:43 AM »
Huff, your a day late and dollar short. The political fun ended 5 months ago!

Huffer

  • Vespas fear me
  • Neophyte
  • *
  • Posts: 49
  • Karma: 0
  • I brake for . . . long distances
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #22 on: August 03, 2008, 05:00:09 AM »
Well, shucks! I thought for sure I'd get some heated reply from someone taking offence to my comment, and I was ready to reply that politics really don't belong on enthusiast forums, especially diatribes against whatever is perceived to be "the other side." I sure hope I don't see any more derogatory comments about Republicans OR Democrats on this fine forum.
2008 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Deluxe--last of the iron-barrel Bullets.
2008 Triumph Bonneville T100--last of the carburetted Bonnies.
1974 Norton Commando Roadster--last of the "proper" right side shift Commandos.

Jon

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #23 on: August 04, 2008, 04:27:02 AM »
I've seen an alarm on the web which is sort of related to a crow scarer it's set
off by a trip wire and fires several blank shotgun rounds and or flares. That might
do the trick.

geoffbaker

  • Guest
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #24 on: October 16, 2008, 04:58:13 PM »
Well, shucks! I thought for sure I'd get some heated reply from someone taking offence to my comment, and I was ready to reply that politics really don't belong on enthusiast forums, especially diatribes against whatever is perceived to be "the other side." I sure hope I don't see any more derogatory comments about Republicans OR Democrats on this fine forum.

Huffer, go over to campfire talk. That's where us Republican- and Democrat-bashers let off steam...

1Blackwolf1

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 3614
  • Karma: 0
  • Looking for the next rebuild project....
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #25 on: October 19, 2008, 08:36:42 PM »
Well, shucks! I thought for sure I'd get some heated reply from someone taking offence to my comment, and I was ready to reply that politics really don't belong on enthusiast forums, especially diatribes against whatever is perceived to be "the other side." I sure hope I don't see any more derogatory comments about Republicans OR Democrats on this fine forum.

Huffer, go over to campfire talk. That's where us Republican- and Democrat-bashers let off steam...
And get all kinds of nasty replies as to what we should do with/to ourselves....YAHOO.  Will.
Will Morrison
2007 500 Military
2000 Kawasaki Drifter 1500
2000 Victory V92SC
1976 Suzuki GT185 Rebuilder Special..AKA (Junkyard Dog)
Many, many other toys.
The garage is full.

Tiny Tim

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 225
  • Karma: 0
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #26 on: November 20, 2008, 04:04:49 PM »
You're all looking at this the wrong way.

Just wait for the sprag clutch to dismantle itself and the job's done.

Every Enfield owner knows that the real name for the kick start it the Anti-Theft Device!

RoadKing, as you're in Portugal, why would you need a sat nav. Just follow the smell of sardines and you'll be at the beach!
REgards

Tiny Tim

"Whilst it isn't possible to polish a turd, you can always roll it in glitter"

2005 Electra AVL

geoffbaker

  • Guest
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #27 on: May 09, 2009, 06:35:53 PM »
this thread got started about electrics & alarms.

Since then, I rewired my whole electrical system and included an 'm-unit' by motogadget which is a sort of centralized electronic protection system for any bike. It replaces all fuses and flashers, and gives you diagnostics on any problematic circuit. In addition, it offers brake modulation, hazard lights, self-cancelling flashers, works with regular bulbs OR LED's... AND it includes an alarm.

Works as advertised... when you jiggle the bike even slightly, all lights and the horn go off. Quite neat.

The unit uses very little power - I've been gone for ten days and came back and started her up without problems.

While not cheap, the m-unit offers a lot of useful functionality if you are considering re-doing your electrical system anyway... I would recommend it!

Of course, to bypass it you merely need to remove the battery, but that's true of any bike alarm.

Mine is installed in my (lockable) toolbox; again, not much of a deterrent, but much better than nothing!

Geirskogul

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 737
  • Karma: 0
  • The world isn't beautiful, therefore it is.
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #28 on: May 27, 2009, 05:19:10 AM »
THREAD NECROMANCY

Anyway, quick question - would the motogadget be difficult to install by itself on a stock RE?  I am a board-level electrician, so I'm fine with working with things a bit, but I don't really want to spend two weeks rewiring the whole damned bike.  If it's just a couple of hours of plugging/unplugging/crimping/soldering, then I'm okay with that.  What's your take, oh master-RE wiring guru?
All hail Sir Lucas, Prince of Darkness.

When an idiot thinks it's the same as not thinking at all!

The Garbone

  • Shade Tree
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 4001
  • Karma: 0
  • User Complaints: 22
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #29 on: May 27, 2009, 01:45:33 PM »
I don't think it would take long rewiring the entire bike.. All you need to do is get rid of all that safety stuff (Kill switch, clutch interlock, ignition switch, kickstand interlock) and the E-start and any emissions garbage and all the sudden the electrics are but a few wires.

 ;)
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *

geoffbaker

  • Guest
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #30 on: May 27, 2009, 02:22:13 PM »
THREAD NECROMANCY

Anyway, quick question - would the motogadget be difficult to install by itself on a stock RE?  I am a board-level electrician, so I'm fine with working with things a bit, but I don't really want to spend two weeks rewiring the whole damned bike.  If it's just a couple of hours of plugging/unplugging/crimping/soldering, then I'm okay with that.  What's your take, oh master-RE wiring guru?

Well, depends on the bike. With a 2000 military, the electrics are considerably more primitive.

What the motogadget requires is that you run "logic" wires to your switches and "power" wires to the bulbs, horn, headlamp, starter etc. The "logic" wires are all small (20ga if I recall, but its all metric, you have to look on their site for conversion info) so they are easily run. The power wires depend on the device load... mounting on a new HD for instance would require heavy wire for the starter!

I ran all new wiring because I had bad wiring in the harness anyway and had no choice but to pull it all.

It would be easy - and a day's work - to just run new wiring where necessary and patch into old wires elsewhere. The horn, for instance, took me only 30 seconds to wire. But this is assuming you have the RE manual as well as the munit manual, have some basic electrical skills (soldering), and know how to use a multitester to trace wires.

Changes: The turn signal indicator lamp in the speedo must be wired to both sides of the trafficator circuit using two 99-cent diodes (the manual explains it all pretty well, and I can help with questions if you decide to do it). The headlamp hi/lo should be easy but I have a HID unit which required special installation. I also installed an on-off switch for the headlamp.

One thing you will lose is your ammeter; there is no way to make it run properly with the m-unit between it and the battery (you get positive load showing on the needle, but no negative load). I switched to a voltmeter instead which you can get cheaply (Garbone did so, look up his thread) or use my method and install a digital voltmeter directly into the ammeter housing. The voltmeters are apparently sensitive enough to show voltage drop as points open to get you to TDC - but I make no guarantees about this, as my bike is a diesel. Garbone reports it works fine for TDC any questions about this direct to him.

I completed the munit installation - just running the wires and testing - in a day. But as there were multiple projects involved (I made a box to hold the m-unit and other fuses and terminal strips, I pulled all the harness wiring out and ran new wire through the main frame tube, requiring drilling holes, I made a waterproof conduit for the wiring from the frame tube to the toolbox holding the m-unit, I added terminal strips for a "power hub" in the headlamp casque so I could run additional circuits in future easily, and I added accessory circuits for two meters, an oil pressure warning lamp, a computer, and a AMP waterproof connection for another acc circuit to power items such as cell phone charger etc. - each with their own fuses.). All told it still took me only two or three days for the total rewire - one full weekend and a few nights of work.

Last note: if you want hazard lights, you have to add another dual-diode connection between the flashers and an extra hazard switch (instructions are available from me if you want). If you want the alarm to work you MUST arrange for the m-unit to be mounted securely HORIZONTALLY with the face of the unit pointing straight UP, otherwise the trembler switch won't work properly.

What you gain - an easily diagnosed electrical system with complete fault protection without fuses or relays, an alarm, modulated brake lights, hazard lights, self-cancelling flashers...personally, I think it's an awesome upgrade and would recommend to anyone with wiring skils. If you, like me, already had major electrical issues, it's a great solution. Even if you don't have a specific need for the upgrade, it offers enough useful features to justify the cost.

Regarding safety stuff as Garbone mentions - there is a circuit for the estart which requires no relay and is simple to wire. Ignition has its own circuit. So long as safety features such as kickstand and clutch interlocks are essentially wireable inline to the ignition circuit and dont exceed the 16A limit on that circuit, they would all work just fine althought that circuit might get fairly complex. I would think clutch lock kill switch and kickstand could all be wired in series on that circuit with ease.

I love the combination of the m-unit and the m-lock... no ignition "switch", no standard key, hidden RFID device, the bike is essentially impregnable unless the thief wants to rewire the whole bike!


« Last Edit: May 27, 2009, 03:32:19 PM by geoffbaker »

Geirskogul

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 737
  • Karma: 0
  • The world isn't beautiful, therefore it is.
Re: RE electricals
« Reply #31 on: June 26, 2009, 05:43:07 AM »
I went the cheap and lazy route and installed an alarm system but kept the bike wiring.  I did change the two fuses I found (one under seat, one inside toolbox on ammeter/ignition line) to breakers, but the alarm system works well enough.  When I start having problems with wiring (they will happen, eventually, I'm told) I'll get to rewiring.

It is fun, when people are looking at my bike (as happens daily - I park across from the entrance doors at the store I work at) to push the "vehicle finder" button (essentially a "make noise" button) and they jump back.
All hail Sir Lucas, Prince of Darkness.

When an idiot thinks it's the same as not thinking at all!