I have a more typical set of ace bars that I'm not using. I think its a 4" drop/4" pullback.
You can keep the casquette and use Ace bars to move the grips forward. Save you a lot of work on the front of the bike. that's the way I'm leaning on mine. Working on a putting together a minimal Clubman "S". Probably keep the stock tank and seat. I had a Norton Manx style cafe racer, miserably uncomfortable on a 200 mile ride. I want to maintain a bit more comfort this time.Bare
AgentX,That military is sweet - I love the insignia.I meant to post these for you back when you first mentioned your plans. Maybe not the overall look for you but some pieces here and there for inspiration maybe. These are the three bikes I've been looking at for the possible future of my Bullet. Great for tearing up the city.This is the Jack Pine Triumph from Hammarhead.http://www.smithbutler.com/sb/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/jbikefinal.jpegThis one is the Streetmaster Triumph:http://www.bikeexif.com/custom-triumphAnd the CRD Triumph Bonneville.http://www.bikeexif.com/triumph-bonneville-9
I bought some Ferodo shoes from Vintage Brake a while back. They are a little on the high side but had a rare set in stock for my Yamaha. If you can't get the Ferodo linings or shoes (my #1 choice) you might check out Hitchcock's for an upgraded relined shoe set they offer for about 45 pounds. An upgrade to a disc brake would be more worthwhile in my opinion if you are setting your bike up as a cafe bike. I like the look of the drum brakes on my Bullet and understand there limitations and adjust my riding style accordingly. Drums are fine for stock or lightly modified Bullets but IMHO an upgrade to a front disc should be made if a full performance build is done to the bike or if you ride in heavy traffic where stopping on a dime is a necessity. Good luck to you and your project. It looks like things are coming along nicely.Brad
Should maybe be ridable photographable on Saturday. We'll see.
Won't be forgetting the digi camera on Saturday, that's for sure. I'll probably be bringing the Leica or the Rollei, too.
I've heard that owning a Royal Enfield Bullet can give the owner something to do with his spare time.Rather than just sitting there on your butt, you really need to start thinking about some projects for you to do to the bike.Something that might make the bike run a little better or perhaps, be a little more dependable.I'm sure you could find something.(Boo-ha-ha-ha-ha. Hee-hee-hee.)
That rearset control looks like a Tarozzi two-piece.Can you just move that chrome lever part to the outer face of the rearset foot control, for more clearance from the frame.Does it have to be on the inside face of the foot lever?
AgentX just read the whole thread. Great bike! I spent a considerable time in India with an Enfield - rode over 8000km - and this post brought back some good memories. A Yezdi! I remember spotting a few of those but never saw one in running condition.....
There are of course also long stroke 570 cranks about.
I'd recommend putting a wrap of protective screening around the front of that oil filter element.It's right behind the front wheel, and stones could kick up and puncture the filter element.I cut a square section out of an old screen door that had a heavier mesh in front of the bug screen, and then used zip-ties to wrap it tight to the filter element on mine. Also, I offset my filter housing toward the primary side, so it wouldn't be directly behind the wheel.
Thanks--on planning for the fireball, I was going to re-mount it vertically on the frame down tube to keep it well clear of the road. Any disadvantages in that?
As far as I can envision it, that would be fine. I don't see problems with vertical mounting unless it's upside down, in which case the filter element would need to be equipped with an anti-drainback valve to prevent filter drainback.
I think that the Bullet frame presents a more difficult challenge because the frame lacks the straight line from the tank back to the shock posts, and instead drops low, more like a hardtail. This creates a special visual issue that most of the bikes like Triumph and Norton and Rickman didn't have to deal with. It has that triangle area under the seat that makes it harder to get a smooth line there.
The sub-frame for the C5 OEM pillion seat provides a very nice platform for seat and cafe modifications. Maybe you could consider fabricating something similar for your Bullet.
Looking good!Love the alloy tail section!
Where are you now? No still in Germany?Bare
It's been so long I forgot you even had another project. Glad you are making progress tho. Sorry to hear that your paint doesn't match, that's a bummer. Hopefully it's minor enough that only the owner and a trained eye will see it. I kind of envy you guys that get to travel all over the world for work. I get to drive down the exact same crowded-ass-over-packed freeway everyday. The drive gets old. Scottie J
Chumma does very nice work!
So it looks like you have a brace going from the inside of the shock's mount up to the seat, is that right? Pretty cool idea. Been trying to think of way to get a flat seat on the frame.Really dig the Thunderbird fork setup.
Cool! I like that new seat/tail section.
I just had a thought X. I remember you mentioning before that the all the OD Green is mismatched, but I have an idea for getting it all to blend and not notice and still be within your theme. What if you painted your bike with a ODG digital camo theme?
Not really my cup of tea...would be a good way to get it all to blend, but that's work/time/money/effort I don't have anyhow. It's f'n ugly. I don't mind. I once deliberately keyed my own tank to prove a point to an aghast Indian painter who was desperate to give me a "cool" paint scheme.
I'll fix it one of these days.
I love the stainless oil lines! Where did you source those? I think I'm going to have to do that to the Blackhawk. Looking good!
Do you get equal or sufficient oiling to your intake side with this hose arrangement?
Can't start the engine yet to say for certain, but obviously that is the anticipation.My original plan was a tee fitting to both intakes, but Chumma felt this was a simpler way to accomplish the same thing. The RE factory (to best of my knowledge) oil cooler fitted to the Fury routed this way, too.With the hopped up hi-flow oil system, I sincerely doubt we will see a lack of oil at the intake rocker, but it will be the first place I check on startup.
Need an odometer is the issue.
will it be "right-side-up"?
I always wondered how those two planes didn't remove some rudders in that maneuver! Dumb s%*t movies.Bare
I like the electric tray. I might have to steal that idea from you.
Definitely coming along!Beware that the SuperTrapp may be holding back quite a bit of hp.
Really? I have no experience but bought into the hype (and scored a used can on the super-cheap...)I also have an Emgo meg I could use.
The Emgo is the ticket. We know that one works.Cut the header length to 31" from one end of the pipe to the other, not including the muffler. Just the header pipe alone is 31"..
Damn. With the rearsets, I am having a hard time finding a good mount for the muffler, especially the biggr emgo.I think my choices boil down to:1. Remove the centerstand and proceed with mounting in the usual place. I will gain some "racy" credit but lose a lot of utility...on the most plus-y side, I don't need to do anything wacky to mount the exhaust.2. Pull one of the toolboxes off and high-mount the muffler with a custom header. With a short header, however, that runs into leg interference issues, although pipe wrap makes an easy heat shield. Right side puts the pipe near the air intake, though, and left side (tracker style...) could heat up the rear brake reservoir some. And either side pretty much points the exhaust flow straight at the respective shock, although a little bend could create some more calf space while aiming the output outboard of the shock.I could possibly fit the supertrapp and keep the centerstand, or find a smaller megaphone, too. I don't make things easy on myself. Ugh.
I think what I am missing is the reason that I would get cooler intake air by running the exhaust on the ri6ght and the air can on the left as opposed to vice versa...seems the same to me either way. I don't think I am catching something about what you are envisioning.
The air filter intake on the Ace Canister is on the bottom for this reason. The hot fins in front of it are above the level of the filter intake.
My reference is when you were experimenting with intakes on your bike. You wrote up some pretty lengthy posts explaining the benefits of grabbing the coolest air possible.
Tom, what's the rationale about the Supertrapp bottling up HP (I assume by flowing less...?) I thought with the max number of discs, they were supposed to be super-free-flowing.Again, I'm going by marketing, so my understanding is limited.
Awesome! But... does that engine have any compression? The only way I can kick my UCE over like that is if I remove the spark plug...
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I have to know where you got an Autometer tach for $50. I need one of those.
I made it public on flickr, but you may need to sign in using your yahoo account... Flickr is a yahoo service now.
I just posted on do The Ton, but I think your timing is too far advanced. Retard it 4-5 degrees and try starting it again.
Ok.Just so you are aware, that connector hose on the air canister is just a friction fit, and you can move it in or out to adjust length, and even angle to a certain amount.That might help out with some frame clearance.
I realized but figured it was intended to be used as a certain length...even if I bottom the hose on the center bolt,I don't think I can raise the position at all. Should I trim it shorter?
Leaving the top cap chrome on the Ace canister can be problematic in direct sunlight. There is a very good chance that sunlight will reflect off generating enough heat to melt your wire sheathing or seat material or something else. Wish I would have thought about that before the bottom of my seat got singed. Just scuffed it up and painted it black to match the canister.
Lean, definitely. The way it's hunting is a giveaway.Regarding the air can. I had to open up the angle of the bracket a fair bit to make the can sit up at the right height. Also had to cut the hose between the carb and the manifold to exactly the width of two hose clamps, no more. Luckily (or by design more likely), the hose from the air can to the carb is long and flexible (I know, that's what she said) to make it all work.
I also took another look at the air can, and got it more vertical and further back, but I am thinking this may pull the carb off-line to the right slightly...
Rented a whole local taxi-van (SoTraMa in the local vernacular) to get the bike to a workshop recommended by a local colleague.
So, yesterday. Aka "to fab a header." Or, "Picker's Paradise."Rented a whole local taxi-van (SoTraMa in the local vernacular) to get the bike to a workshop recommended by a local colleague.
After all that, I suddenly realized the proper solution to my header issue: a swept-back header in the conventional position, which should get the muffler clear of the centerstand and the shifter lever.Simple and easy with a few mandrel bends. Not as showy as the left-high-side exhaust, which is fine with me, especially for now. I have been having MC Escher dreams of a twisty front section for the high left header final design, but I can put them to rest for the moment, I think. Will be ordering the mild steel bends today, I hope.