Parts needed:3/4"X1/2" clear vinyl tubingFram FV 401 PCV valve or equivalent or a reducing elbow 1/2" to 3/8"Flapper valve from the catch-canPlastic tiesRoute the timingcase breather tubing and secure with ties as pictured in the second photo.
tooseevee,On the timingcase breather tubing, I just left it open. If you are concerned, you could put a duckbill flapper valve on the open end. Nfieldgear has them for $5.95, part number 140167. It will be in the performance section. If you route the breather tubing from the timingcase high and out of the weather, not low like I did, a little round filter would work just fine. If you route the breather tubing down low like I did, I would not use a filter. It will just get wet and clog-up if you ride in the rain or mud or wet streets or ford streams and such, I love the mud. Cheers,Bill
I believe the duckbill is there to restrict the air from entering your crankcase, but allowing pressure to vent. The only 4 stroke bikes I have ever owned that did not have some form of checkvalve were big twin Harley's. They had a rotary valve built into the oil pump drive. A whole lot of trouble, kinda think it may serve a pourpose.
I'm back to the catch-can. Don't like the oil dripping out of the breather hose and on to the ground. I think I'm through with this modification attempt for now. Cheers,Bill
I placed a Krankvent in the line about the height of the carb and petcock, then ran the line over the frame under the seat, back down and to the rear. I removed the can entirely and plugged the other vent on the case where the return line from the can had gone with a rubber cap. No more blowing oil. Less vibration too.
I used the Universal 3/8" Barb Kit. I ran the hose straight up from the oil tank nipple (large hose going to oil can) and hung it from the frame with a wide Tie Strap. The Krankvent is just below the tank, pointing straight up. The hose curves and runs back along the frame to where the old oil can was, then down behind the left tool box and back along the frame to the rear of the fender. No oil has ever come out. I feel a little puff puff at idle there. I can't hear the Krankvent ticking or tapping at all.The timing case nipple (smaller of the two hoses going to the can) is capped off with a vacuum cap and small clamp right at the timing case. Oil can is sitting on a shelf in the garage.The vent line must run straight up from the oil tank nipple to keep oil from running out the line. If it doesn't go as straight and high as possible under the frame there is no point in bothering to do this at all.I'm out of town or I'd post a pic for you. I will upload a pic tomorrow night.
Which of the Krankvents did you use? It sounds like you are using an inline vent device. Is there a purpose in running the vent up high and back down? Do you mean the rear of the motor or at the end of the rear fender? And you capped the primary case vent? What about the timing case? I have read this entire thread and I'm still concerned about what to do with the minor lines.
I just make sure my engine is at TDC after each ride and I haven't had an issue with the stock breather set-up or wet sumping since I first bought the bike and blew all the hoses clear with my compressor. I see no need for any modifications to the system, at least on the stock bike.
The catch can is laying on its side now, hiding in that little nether region behind the crank case. I also put a few shreds of rags in the can with the hope that it'll help prevent leaks once some oil gets in there. Took it for a quick spin and I can feel puffs of engine breath coming out of the blowoff tube, so all seems fine for now. I'll just have to pay attention to it in case the can gets saturated because A) it will probably leak, and all leaks will go directly on my rear tire tread. and B) if the rags get saturated, and get shaken over the blowoff hole, i'll then be suffocating my engine (same as plugging it at the crank case itself).Fingers crossed!still looking for a simpler, more maintenance free cure... (I don't want to continually have to empty this wretched thing)chuck
tooseevee, I removed my side panels altogether for a 'naked bike' look. My K&N air filter is a massive thing, a cylinder bigger than a beer can, so wouldn't fit with the right side panel toolbox anyway. My 'rags' in the catch can are based on your 'old sock/underpants' idea to monitor and absorb oil blowoff. Chuck
His problem isn't wet sumping.Oh yeah, like REpozer said, don't try to keep it higher than half full on the dipstick. It just spits the oil out.
PS just read this last response... I got rid of my stock catch can initially with the desire to strip down and simplify my bike. I got rid of the stock airbox, so it seemed natural to do something with the catch can since it no longer had a place to go, and I was experiencing wetness in the stock airbox.Cheers,Chuck
Mine blew oil into the airbox ONCE (spring of 2011, bike was brand new) soaked the air filter & dripped through the hinge & all over the giant muffler & the rear of the bike. I immediately tore all the hoses & cans & tubes off, put & K&N filter right on the carb & rerouted the CC breather hose into the empty air filter case as I've talked about here before. Zero problems since then. No oil spewing anywhere. At most I get a slight oil mist out of the duckbill. I haven't even had to change the old pair of underwear I stuck in there; not a skidmark on them For me simplicity is always the goal. I'm gonna work on a battery inside that right side case next & do away with that huge battery & the holder & everything. I don't like the way the battery cover fits & it hurts my hands getting it off & back on. Besides, I never use the starter & never ride at night. The battery in the harley is 1/2 the size of the RE battery.
Superchuck - I messed around for MONTHS trying to build an effective catch can and messing with PCVs and everything I did just made a different problem. I finally said screw it and I now just run the crank breather straight out the back fender and I lose WAY more oil out of my leaky crank case than I do out of the breather. Do yourself a favor and rather than making a mess of a small problem just get the damn duckbill and be done with it. I wish I had ordered one when I first started wrenching on this bike. Would have saved me a lot of oil messes and headaches.Scottie
okay, guys, thanks for your patience. I guess the next step is to create a can easier to clean out, or just put up with the spray. Now, after all these years I understand why the pcv has to always be replaced. I have seen that mayo on the valve covers too. I wish that I could reroute the overflow at the top of the can back into the engine somewhere or someplace that wouldn't spray back on the bike. It's funny how my little Honda SL125 from back in the 70's didn't have all these problems. It just had a breather cap on top of the Crank case.
Right now, my bike runs so bad that I dont feel like riding it at all.So, gentlemen, what is the final solution!!Is it that we should live with the factory set way of the catch can plumbing?Nevertheless, the bike runs like shit and am really fed up with the erratic running.
Hi Machismo, I certainly feel your pain. I cant say that im an expert or that I've been able to eliminate the mayo; I'm not and I havent. But I'll share what I've done and my thinking (right or wrong i cant say): 1. I've kept the OEM catch can; I dont like oily spray or a mess under the bike.2. Crank Case airline: Routed by HIGH over the frame and then back down to the can. Im using a clear hose I got from a hardware supplier so I can see what the f*** is going on. 3. I've blocked the timing chest line. The design of this is actually a drain from the can back into the timing chest. There is actually a duckbill in the timing chest that allows goo in, but doesnt allow goo or pressure out. 4. Left the primary case hose alone. It still goes to the can. I figure since I use nearly a liter of oil in the case, maybe a pressure relief is needed. Honestly, I've never check it... hmmmm 5. Where the Timing Chest hose used to connect to the can, I've installed about a 6 inch hose with a plumbers valve on it. This is my drain. It's also a clear hose so I can see when the mayo needs draining. Works great after a ride. I hide it behind the battery cover and then whip it out to drain the beast. 6. Air line from can to the air box. I've left this in place. My thinking is if the C Case breather system needs to maintain a negative pressure, i need a fresh air line into the can to allow the mayo goo to enter into the can and therefore dont want a sealed pressure vessel (PV=nRT - not that the can is really that 'air tight'). Basically, I want the CC hose to remain clear and the stuff needs to be able to enter into the can with the neg pressure created by the duckbill. Is it really any different than stock? Well, no not really except running high. But I have a drain without have to disassemble the left side of the bike! I still get mayo... especially when Im running short or hard. But i dont care... just drain the beast. Performance wise, Ive been running this way for over a year now. Havent seen any decrease in performance, but I also make sure my lines are clear and free. As a suggestion: How about leaving your setup as is, with the air line open and not blocked? Just an idea.
I like your system Dan and I agree with you about leaving the air vent line open.When the engine is running there is a bit of "blowby" that passes the piston rings and enters the crankcase. Without some vent to the outside, this blowby has no place to go so it will pressurize the crankcase.The added pressure will decrease the engines performance and can contribute to oil leaks thru the seals and flat gaskets.
Do you feel like starting a new topic & laying out what's wrong & including the bike's present state; jets, state of tune, what you've done? Some history?
Could you post a picture? In my case, the hose is a factory made one and its such a struggle to get it over the frame, behind the battery case. Far too little space, actually. Also, that clear hose pipe of yours - can it withstand the high temperature?
Remember that these bikes are designed to be operated at medium and higher rpms.Riding at low rpms that cause chain jerk is to be avoided at all times.I realize that there is some sort of cultural thing in India which involves lugging the engines to death at low rpms in high gears, but I assure you that this practice is not "cool" and is damaging the engine.
Totally(sadly as well) agree with your point on people here lugging the Bulls. More than cultural thing, it's almost attained a cult status. However, when I meant by low end jerks, it was about how effortlessly the bike pulled from 2nd gear, with speed around 20kmph. When I had the hot tube removed, I constantly use the clutch to control the lack of torque under same circumstances(even with an up jetted carb). I am gonna open a new thread on this damn tube! Hope you'll pen down your thoughts there.
Excellent news! Nice work. I dont have a pic at work, but honestly, it looks nearly identical to Bill's pic on page 1 of this thread, 1st post. The clear hose (im thinking is just a PVC) really isnt troubled by temperature at the case. It doesnt get as hot as you'd think at the contact point. I did have trouble making the turns without crimping, so I used small copper plumbing fittings to help make the turns. I do make sure every month or so to clear the lines; Easy to know when to do so as you can see right into it.
I have NONE of these "torque" problems in my '08 AVL with K&N intake & wide open exhaust (muffler) & the hot tube removed. You have to do a lot of carb learning & rejetting & experimenting to get them right. I've probably had the carb off (or just the top off) 20 times, but that's what you gotta do if you want to make intake & exhaust mods & if you're not ready to do it you should leave it as it is when it comes out the last door in Chennai. I only have 880 miles as of today so I've not ever REALLY porked it yet, but it will jump to 40 like a rocket (an RE "rocket") in 3rd gear. And it will jump like a rocket (again, an RE rocket) from 40 to 60 in 4th OR 5th just rolling the throttle on. I also don't feel any of these "torque problems" around town in ANY gear. I'm also NEVER in 4th under 40 & it never dies in traffic or at stop signs (& leave that clutch lever out). I think I'm leaning more & more toward getting an electronic tach next season (instead of Hagons). I'll have over a 1,000 by then & I'm the type who just wants to "know".
Well I did try out a lot of jet options with the stock BS29, almost so repetitively that I could get the carb off , jet change and back on in about 30min.But once I installed the BS32, just did one change of plonking in a 17.5 pilot and 120 main. This set up did work well for a couple of months. Not sure what happened after that. So will have to see if the current setting work right.
Hello Machismo,I have decided to keep the catch can design except for the hose to the oil air cleaner. I will build a larger catch can which will be placed where my current battery sits so I can get at it easier. I will run all the hoses the same way except I will leave some space at the bottom of the larger can for the mayo to collect. Oil overflow will flow back into Timing Case. I'm not big on blowing it out. There are a lot of folks adding catch cans to modern machines so there must be something to it. I like the idea of separating out the mayo simply because my riding does involve a lot of short trips and the mayo will happen. I will place a breather on top of the new can.As for the other problems you are getting some good advice from the experts.
I forgot you switched carbs. I haven't been able to post anything this afternoon for some reason. This is one more try in a series of many one more trys. (Well, this one finally worked).
Hi there Buckeroo.Interesting to hear that folks modern machines going for teh catch can. Wonder why!About the recycling the oil back to the timing case - I got a bad feeling of having some blobs or just sludgy oil getting into the oil tank.
I don't want gunk going back in there either. However, as I understand this process, I want the excess, if any, to go back into the engine, not on the ground. With an oil change every 1500 miles, I'm not expecting any blobs to be there very long. I am surprised that the drain back to the timing case from the OEM can drains from the bottom of the can. I will not let it do that.
Right! The precise reason why I have let the catch can-timing chest line hanging open, near the side stand. I would not want that mayo back in the engine.
I had followed Tim's instructions of re-routing the crank case hose to the catch-can, and that had solved the issue, but yesterday after a 100 mile 60Mph ride, the bike spewed oil all over the air-filter box.
Are you still using the can? I don't know of the 'fix' but I'm doing the same as you and still get the mayo. Especially at higher speeds. All I did has block off the timing case line at the case and used that line as a drain method to empty the can from time to time. I put a plumbers valve at the end of that line and then drain it about once a month.
I put a plumbers valve at the end of that line and then drain it about once a month.
Shouldn't that hose be open to the air & what's a "plumber's valve" ?
Hi 2CV, what i call a plumbers valve is actually an instrumentation needle valve that I picked up at True Value for a 1 or 2. Looks a little like this, but it's inline: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/01601756?fromRR=YThe are 3 hoses at the bottom of the can and 1 at the top. The top goes to open air (out the back or via the air box, which is stock). Out of the bottom: 1 goes to the crank, which is the largest; 2nd goes to the primary; 3rd is the return line back to the timing case. Its this last line I put the valve on and use it as a drain. I plugged the timing case port. I dont have a pic of it, but I can do if you'd like, later when Im off work.