okay, guys, thanks for your patience. I guess the next step is to create a can easier to clean out, or just put up with the spray. Now, after all these years I understand why the pcv has to always be replaced. I have seen that mayo on the valve covers too. I wish that I could reroute the overflow at the top of the can back into the engine somewhere or someplace that wouldn't spray back on the bike. It's funny how my little Honda SL125 from back in the 70's didn't have all these problems. It just had a breather cap on top of the Crank case.
Right now, my bike runs so bad that I dont feel like riding it at all.So, gentlemen, what is the final solution!!Is it that we should live with the factory set way of the catch can plumbing?Nevertheless, the bike runs like shit and am really fed up with the erratic running.
Hi Machismo, I certainly feel your pain. I cant say that im an expert or that I've been able to eliminate the mayo; I'm not and I havent. But I'll share what I've done and my thinking (right or wrong i cant say): 1. I've kept the OEM catch can; I dont like oily spray or a mess under the bike.2. Crank Case airline: Routed by HIGH over the frame and then back down to the can. Im using a clear hose I got from a hardware supplier so I can see what the f*** is going on. 3. I've blocked the timing chest line. The design of this is actually a drain from the can back into the timing chest. There is actually a duckbill in the timing chest that allows goo in, but doesnt allow goo or pressure out. 4. Left the primary case hose alone. It still goes to the can. I figure since I use nearly a liter of oil in the case, maybe a pressure relief is needed. Honestly, I've never check it... hmmmm 5. Where the Timing Chest hose used to connect to the can, I've installed about a 6 inch hose with a plumbers valve on it. This is my drain. It's also a clear hose so I can see when the mayo needs draining. Works great after a ride. I hide it behind the battery cover and then whip it out to drain the beast. 6. Air line from can to the air box. I've left this in place. My thinking is if the C Case breather system needs to maintain a negative pressure, i need a fresh air line into the can to allow the mayo goo to enter into the can and therefore dont want a sealed pressure vessel (PV=nRT - not that the can is really that 'air tight'). Basically, I want the CC hose to remain clear and the stuff needs to be able to enter into the can with the neg pressure created by the duckbill. Is it really any different than stock? Well, no not really except running high. But I have a drain without have to disassemble the left side of the bike! I still get mayo... especially when Im running short or hard. But i dont care... just drain the beast. Performance wise, Ive been running this way for over a year now. Havent seen any decrease in performance, but I also make sure my lines are clear and free. As a suggestion: How about leaving your setup as is, with the air line open and not blocked? Just an idea.
I like your system Dan and I agree with you about leaving the air vent line open.When the engine is running there is a bit of "blowby" that passes the piston rings and enters the crankcase. Without some vent to the outside, this blowby has no place to go so it will pressurize the crankcase.The added pressure will decrease the engines performance and can contribute to oil leaks thru the seals and flat gaskets.
Do you feel like starting a new topic & laying out what's wrong & including the bike's present state; jets, state of tune, what you've done? Some history?
Could you post a picture? In my case, the hose is a factory made one and its such a struggle to get it over the frame, behind the battery case. Far too little space, actually. Also, that clear hose pipe of yours - can it withstand the high temperature?
Remember that these bikes are designed to be operated at medium and higher rpms.Riding at low rpms that cause chain jerk is to be avoided at all times.I realize that there is some sort of cultural thing in India which involves lugging the engines to death at low rpms in high gears, but I assure you that this practice is not "cool" and is damaging the engine.
Totally(sadly as well) agree with your point on people here lugging the Bulls. More than cultural thing, it's almost attained a cult status. However, when I meant by low end jerks, it was about how effortlessly the bike pulled from 2nd gear, with speed around 20kmph. When I had the hot tube removed, I constantly use the clutch to control the lack of torque under same circumstances(even with an up jetted carb). I am gonna open a new thread on this damn tube! Hope you'll pen down your thoughts there.
Excellent news! Nice work. I dont have a pic at work, but honestly, it looks nearly identical to Bill's pic on page 1 of this thread, 1st post. The clear hose (im thinking is just a PVC) really isnt troubled by temperature at the case. It doesnt get as hot as you'd think at the contact point. I did have trouble making the turns without crimping, so I used small copper plumbing fittings to help make the turns. I do make sure every month or so to clear the lines; Easy to know when to do so as you can see right into it.
I have NONE of these "torque" problems in my '08 AVL with K&N intake & wide open exhaust (muffler) & the hot tube removed. You have to do a lot of carb learning & rejetting & experimenting to get them right. I've probably had the carb off (or just the top off) 20 times, but that's what you gotta do if you want to make intake & exhaust mods & if you're not ready to do it you should leave it as it is when it comes out the last door in Chennai. I only have 880 miles as of today so I've not ever REALLY porked it yet, but it will jump to 40 like a rocket (an RE "rocket") in 3rd gear. And it will jump like a rocket (again, an RE rocket) from 40 to 60 in 4th OR 5th just rolling the throttle on. I also don't feel any of these "torque problems" around town in ANY gear. I'm also NEVER in 4th under 40 & it never dies in traffic or at stop signs (& leave that clutch lever out). I think I'm leaning more & more toward getting an electronic tach next season (instead of Hagons). I'll have over a 1,000 by then & I'm the type who just wants to "know".