Mounting rear set footpegs

[barenekd]

Installation of Rearset Footpegs

The installation of the rearset pegs I got from Nfield Gear is fairly straightforward and easy, as long as you are aware of a few things.
First the kit isn't made specifically for the G-5, but probably the Electra frame. There are a few differences even though they appear the same without very close examination. The main bolts line up, so not much modification is really necessary. If you choose to keep the stock sidestand a small (about maybe a quarter inch) indent in the bottom of the left mounting plate is necessary to clear the head of the bolt that holds the rear of the stock sidestand mounting plate to the frame.
The kit comes with a built-in Sidestand mount. It moves the sidestand back and will tend to interfere a bit with the footwork of operating the stands. Or it may hit the centerstand arm. It's close, but I can't be sure whether or not the centerstand has to go.  I've never seen a picture of one that still has the centerstand mounted.
I cut the sidestand mount off the new piece and kept the original stand. You will also lose the sidestand switch if you convert to the kit location.
If you keep the RE sidestand you will need a longer bolt for the rear engine mount hole. That's the one that is right behind the sidestand and at the front of the new peg sideplate. I ended up not being able to find an M8-320 bolt and had to use a 3/8"x12" SAE bolt. It works fine, but is a little looser through the hole than the M8 version.
Don't take the sidestand  spring off if you can avoid it. It's a pain to get back on. I built a special puller to get mine back on.
I removed the RH footpeg mount by doing some hefty cranking on it. It's welded on the backside of the hole it goes through and is not terribly hard to twist off. The left hand one is still there. It doesn't stick out as far.
The toughest part was actually to get all the stuff together and make it fit for the pipe. The pipe needs to be loosened at the head so it can get rotated more under the  frame rail. But it needs to clear the bolt head that goes over to the sidestand mount. I was going to put a crush washer in the exhaust port to take up the gap of moving things around, but I got the wrong size at Spruce so just put the old washers back in with some exhaust sealer stuff. It worked and doesn't leak.
I used a hanger on the rear end of the exhaust pipe. It is a 1-3/4" loop with an arm extending off it to mount it onto the frame. I attached it to the bolt that goes through to the sidestand bracket. It secures the end of the pipe so it doesn't move around at the angle adapter.
The muffler angle adapter didn't fit well and wouldn't slip over the end of the exhaust pipe. I tried the Harbor Freight tubing expander, but could really never get a good enough grip on the adapter to keep it from rotating with the tool, so that didn't go well. I got the end tapered enough to get it started, but it would only go on about 1/2".  It was clear that I needed another solution. Well if the tube won't expand let's shrink the pipe so the thing will fit. The last 4" of the exhaust pipe is an 1/8" or so thick so there's plenty of meat to remove. So I went after it with a belt sander. After many rotations, I got it down to where the angel adapter would slide on an inch or so and felt that would be adequate. While I was at it, I removed that clip that holds the stock muffler on.
The other end of the adapter was, if  anything, a bit too large, but a good T-bolt clamp took it right down to size for the muffler. I used the brace that the muffler came with to attach it to the rear passenger pegs. It took a bit of bending to get everything in the right place.
Part of the reason the heat shield is rather essential is that it covers up all the nasty sanding marks!
The kit comes with some rudimentary instructions. That will generally get you through the process.
Pictures of the bike in the photo gallery.

Bare

[Jack Leis]

Good job Bare !

[TWinOKC]

Does the kick starter clear the footpeg easily.  Is it worth the time and money?

[Maturin]

Besides changing the stitting position, the rearsets do have a very welcomed aditional advantage: by removing the long brake lever as well as the ridgid stock pegs you extended the possible declination angle to a big degre.
Did you allready found out what´s next with scratching? The center stand?
Regards

[barenekd]

Does the kick starter clear the footpeg easily.  Is it worth the time and money?

The footpeg folds up so that clears the kickstarter. With it down, no.
The time and money. If I had to do it knowing what I know now, the time would've been much less. I would have liked to spend less money, but I really hadn't come up with anything cheaper. But I do like them
I have hit my toes on the ground, but no stands yet. They are pretty well tucked in.
Bare

[Gordon]

Thank you, thank you AND thank you very much!

The time and money. If I had to do it knowing what I know now, the time would've been much less. I would have liked to spend less money, but I really hadn't come up with anything cheaper. But I do like them

I can relate to this. Here in India, we do not have an on-the-shelf rearset kit available for the Enfield. So I actually made one myself and they eventually worked like a charm. Spent quite some time and money to make them. Looking back, if I knew how to make them in the first place It would've been much cheaper and quicker to make.

I've already sold my cafe and now looking to buy a Classic 500. Want another cafe and this will definitely help since we get the same frame here.