Milk's 03 Bullet dual sport build

[noisymilk]

Hello folks,

I figured rather than clog up the Iron Barrel forum with this post, I would do it down here. I hope to make this a continuing thread about my building of my Enfield into a functional dual sport machine.

I had spent some time earlier (thanks to those who chimed in....I always like smarter peoples opinions) considering making my enfield a hack. I even did some serious pricing on the matter. But, truth be told, I think I would be better in the long run going this route. I intend to do the bottom end in the future (obviously), but not the full fireball. I don't want to go high compression, as there will be places in the world where I can't get reasonable fuel, and I would like it to still run.

Proposed upgrades (I will try to maintain this list and update as finished):

-alloy barrel and piston - Done! Ace lightened 535 piston and alloy barrel are purchased.... and installed now!

-carbeurator - not done!! Sourced a PWK30 from a forum brother. But am not equal to the task of dialing it in. Strongly considering CVK30 or 32. Sticking with perfectly functioning stock Mikcarb for now.

-airbox mod - done (Ace aircan installed)

-head improvement - done (stage 1 head with kibblewhites) (and also send for some fancy coatings and a valve reseat after I tried to fry it AGAIN in the AZ heat)

-bash plate

-screw on oil filter - Done!  plumbing is done (currently an oil cooler which will go away), just need to buy product. purchased and installed and functioning very well.

-improve luggage situation - ok....current thought (subject to change at any moment) is Wolfman Summit saddle bags, and purchase the Inder trailer for 2 up travel.

-improved rear shocks - Hagon 2810's (about 3/4 of the way down the page). Slimline progressive springs. 320-340mm in length....a good inch longer than stock so I can hopefully have some more rear wheel travel:
http://www.hagonshocksusa.com/HagShocks.htm

-sealed bearing kit for trans - done...running on gear oil only now

-breather mod kit - done installed easy peasy, and seems to be doing what it should. Awesome.

-currently planning on maintaining 19" rims. Several good tires are in the running as my dual sports. Kenda K761's, TKC 80's, Mefo Explorers. We'll see as purchase time approaches.

-full re-wire of the bike. Because I like my wiring better than anyone elses. Will be adding the improved rotor/stator, some flood lights, going all LED and possibly adding some running lights. Also adding wiring for GPS/phone charging/future heated gear.

-Speedo - damn....Nfield Gear can't get the Radon anymore. Am looking at other vendors for it, or perhaps an Acewell 2853 or similar. Have located a person on fleabay who has several Radon speedo's for sale....likely go this route.

-get current header coated. Go see the people at Jet Hot:  http://www.jet-hot.com/

-new muffler - done a forum brother has hooked me up with an exact replacement for my shorty sausage muffler.

-progressive springs for the front, if I can source them.

-trials bars - done (Protaper SE CR High's. Probably wind up with risers of some variety.) photos on page 2.

-new turn indicators all the way around. These up front:
http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-24/LED-Turn-signal-fdsh--LED/Detail.bok

These in back, with blinkers for brake lights:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=TRUCK&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Ftlsr14a9_specs.htm

-add tool tube - this one: http://www.agrisupply.com/operator-manual-canister/p/67670/

-larger tank - thinking 25 or 30 liter

-a horn - done! I went with a Screaming Banshee horn. It really works quite well.


The end result of all of this is to have a machine that will go to Anchorage in the next few years, and eventually to Tierra del Fuego. And that will pull me and my wife and a trailer for stateside trips. I realize this is a bit of a long shot for an enfield, but I think I can get it done. I'm not a freeway flyer, and this bike has been doing this type of stuff for years overseas. We'll see. Wish me luck....

Be safe, all.

[noisymilk]

So, I have spent several days with my recently re attached panniers. Shite! I forgot how much they rattle.

So, soon it will be off with the panniers for work! I am thinking they are going to become 20 MM ammo cans. Looks like I can easily cut down the current racks, do a little of this and that....get a pannier puck system from Happy Trails, and mount the ammo cans complete with quick release function. Looks like I can come up with at least 3 good mounting points, and create a better support system across the back with pieces that I cut off. That single bar in the original system isn't going to be enough.

A little more truck bed liner, and should be good to go. Also...not stupid expensive.

Be safe, all.

[boggy]

I am thinking they are going to become 20 MM ammo cans.

Like that idea.

[noisymilk]

Thanks boggy,

some photos for inspiration:

I am taking my inspiration for the mounting assembly from here - http://krian.jimdo.com/motorcycles/royal-enfield/panniers/. Although I am also thinking of cutting the rear fender almost all the way to the back of the seat, relocating an LED brake light up there and on the back of the saddle cans, and building a subframe of sorts, so the rear tire could just be pulled and rolled straight out the back without unmounting anything in the case of a flat.

More photo's I've found:




Weight is a real consideration. Figure the 2 cans plus mounting are gonna be 45 lbs.

However, since I've been on my new lifestyle (no soda since Nov 1, half portions all day, and making my own fruit/veggie juices), I'm down 20 pounds. So I figure maybe I'll be alright....plus upgraded shocks I mentioned above.

Be safe all.

[jartist]

Those ammo cans are way heavy and huge on a little royal enfield. I'm sure you could make it work but I'd be tempted to spend some dough on aluminum cans from happy-trail. Pelican cases have been used too but I had a hard time finding the right size for the enfield when I was planning my bike. Good luck on the project, I'm looking forward to seeing your results!

[The Garbone]

Maybe if you could cut the fender and put a hinge on it like old school Harleys and such.  Might have to change out the tail lamps and plate assemble for clearance but it could work.

[noisymilk]

Br Jartist: yeah I hear you on the weight. And its all out past the rear shocks and practically behind the rear tire. That's a consideration. I'm hoping improved shocks and the subframe work i'm trying to do will help there. As far as just buying off the shelf aluminum panniers....well happy trails and touratech REALLY like their products. That's the kind of money i'm going to be spending on the crank anyways....would rather save it for engine work. And yeah, looked at plastic cans of many varieties. There's even a top loading pelican....1440 I think....that's still in the running. Its expensive though as well. We'll see. Gonna build the rack first, then figure what to hang on it.

Br Garbone: thanks for the encouragement. Never saw the hinged rear fender before, but that's a solid idea. I'll have to look into it. And yeah, turn signals and taillight and license plate are all already planned to be relocated and replaced with all LED options. Along with new wiring, all DC system and somesort of headlamp improvement. Perhap just and HID in current casquette. Perhaps a trials casquette and some sort of sexy head lamp from the aftermarket adventure sites. Trailtech or baja designs or something. Budget withstanding of course.

Thanks guys. Working on pannier frame now. Will post pics of progress when there is something to show.

[cyrusb]

You can get those 20mm ammo cans in FRP. Very sturdy and light. A pal of mine has them on his "Adventure" bike.

[barenekd]

Maybe if you could cut the fender and put a hinge on it like old school Harleys and such.

That bike has a hinged fender, doesn't it?
Bare

[The Garbone]

Bare ,  I think the way the panniers are attached and the dual seat prevent the stock setup from lifting.  On my bikes it flips up.   
 



I was thinking of something like this..

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/7110090

[baird4444]

Milk-  I've got an offer for you if you think you'd go this direction. I've got a set
of bags, not throw overs, that could be used in racks. They look more like
cases to me....  looks like but NOT leather; have a core-plast lining inside
to keep ridgid; handles for carrying.
   14.5"W X 5.75" D X 12" H   
  Yours for the price of shipping from zip 61920.
      I got'em on fleabay for the brackets to install another set  - Mike

        If Milk refuses- 1st PM to me will get....

[noisymilk]

Br Baird444 - That's a very generous offer. I myself will be passing, as I want a hard lockable pannier for adventure touring. However, maybe one of the other forum folks will take you up on it.

Br Barenekd and Garbone - You are correct, the stock bench seat prevents the hinging up function that is available (apparently) with solo saddles. And I don't want to have to get crazy unbolting stuff to change a flat on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. Pulling the castle nut, pulling the axle, popping the tire off and rolling it out the back is the objective. If I can cut the fender up enough to make this easy (or at the very least possible while up on a 2x4 on the center stand) that works for me.

So, been researching pannier options again, based on previous conversations about weight of ammo cans. However, the only pelican case I was interested in (http://pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1440) turns out to weigh 14.5 lbs empty. And at $125 a case, and not much weight savings over ammo cans, I think I am still leaning that way.

Hey...if you need a tool tube on your bike, you can't hardly beat these: http://www.agrisupply.com/operator-manual-canister/p/67670/.  I will likely have one or two of these in the end. Tools and camping fuel I believe. Gonna add this to my original list up top.

Also, picked up a new set of handlebars. These : http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se in the "CR HIgh" shape. $30 on the local craigslist. Not bad. Came with a tank bag as well : http://www.joerocket.com/catalog/index.cfm/251/381/Luggage/Manta_Tank_Bag. Looks good for carrying some bottled water and some chargers and stuff. Not a big ass one for carrying a map, but a good starter to figure out what I need. Plus, the intention is to use GPS as map (although I do like lo-tech frequently in the "I'm effing lost!" category).

They don't rise much in comparison to the stock bars I have, but are stronger build with reinforcement bar. Think I will purchase a set of these as bar risers : http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.cgi?subcat_id=268. They will fit right onto our bike, and have a significant adjustability. I am thinking 2" rise is the way to go. Going to install the Protapers first a ride a bit to see what I think I need.

I'd be interested in people thoughts about 19" dual sports vs. doing the 18"/21" change. I'm not going to be doing single track or anything. But given the places I want to go, do I need to do the change?

[jartist]

There's very few choices for dual sport tires on the 19" rims.  The only reason I'd change wheel sizes would be for the wider range of choices available with 18"/21" wheels.  K70 tires on 19" rims are quite capable if you're staying out of thick mud.  There used to be vintage style trials type tires available for the 19" rims but everyone who carries them are out of stock so I'm wondering if they're a thing of the past.

[Eamon]

There used to be vintage style trials type tires available for the 19" rims but everyone who carries them are out of stock so I'm wondering if they're a thing of the past.

Shinko makes a DOT Trials auniversal type tire - the SR241.  They make a 3.50x19 version that ought to work.  I've thought about them for forest roads etc.
http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Shinko/shinko_sr241_trials.htm



I think plenty of places carry them and I imagine most any shop can get them.

Eamon

[jartist]

Those are the ones.  Everyone was out of the 3.50X19 size when I was shopping before but they seem to be in stock around the net now.

[baird4444]

"Br Baird444 - That's a very generous offer. I myself will be passing, as I want a hard lockable pannier for adventure touring. However, maybe one of the other forum folks will take you up on it. "

                              Bags are spoken for....
                                           - Mike

[noisymilk]

Baird4444 - Excellent! Glad someone picked them up. Maybe the lucky person will post a photo of them installed.

[noisymilk]

Br's Eamon and Jartist - hey, thats a good looking tire. Correct me if I'm wrong, but 3.5-19 is the same as 100/90-19. Which I am currently running front and rear (AM26's). And the price is nice, and I bet I could find those just about anywhere in the world. Hmmm....ok.

Excellent!..

I think that money spent on the 18/21 modification will be able to go elsewhere now. Cool.

I might still do the 21" trials front mudguard, just to increase space between tire and mudguard. We'll see.

Thanks!

[noisymilk]

Alright....handlebars. Out with the old:




And in with the new:




Side by side:



So, obviously these bars are a bit wider. I'm happy to report all controls were able to be reused without new cables, except for the decompressor cable. It came up short. So I deleted it:



I can just push in the decomp with a gloved finger when restarting warm. I've seen someone on here who made a cute little button to push it with...might do something like that. However, it's perfectly functional as is.

I also deleted the clutch switch which was apparently something to do with a starter kill or something. I guess it was probably to make me have to have the clutch in to use the starter like a car. However, my starter is long gone. And this wiring and switch was useless.....so its out of here!


And a look with my new tank bag. It looks a bit out of place, but I'm gonna keep using it since it carries a few water bottles easily. It also has a phone pocket, and I will be hooking up a charger outlet to where I could charge while riding. Cool.


Took it for a spin tonight. I like the more agressive riding stance. And i never realized how the old bars gave a little until I put on a set of reinforced bars like this. Real positive control improvements. I feel more comfortable pushing and leaning into turns now. Feel like I have much more control. However, clutch operation created some stress in my left wrist. Gonna try rolling them towards me a bit to see if that helps. I'm betting its going to be risers as well. Good note is, I can stand on the pegs and still hold the bars easily, for some mild off road riding.

Thanks all. Be safe.

[noisymilk]

Howdy!

Think I found my solution to the "cut the fender/move the brake lights" issue. From superbrightleds.com.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=TRUCK&Page2Disp=/specs/tlsr14a9_specs.htm

Trailer lights! I hadn't even thought of it, but its quite simple. One has a licence plate light already built in with the running lights. Brakes, turn signals, running lights. Split the wiring under the seat, build a bracket behind each pannier.

Voila! Cut the rear fender and tire can roll straight out.

Also, re: the Protapers above. I don't think I like the big logo all over my bike. Probably gonna delete that silly piece of foam and its cover.

Be safe all.

[Arizoni]

I think the PROTAPER is utt bugly myself.

It kinda overpowers the important part: "ROYAL ENFIELD"

[noisymilk]

Br. Arizoni - I think I agree.

[Ice]

HI Milk !!

 My oldest boys trials bike has the 21" front /17" rear combo. It works. Increases stability and and no trace of twitchyness.

 Compared to new bikes its heavy for a trail/trials/enduro bike but its and animal.
The weight and torque combine to give it bite and make it very, very tractable 

 On road cornering is still very good but just tad bit less flick-able compared to my Military unless you make up for it by a little extra input.

Bill Harris out rides me all the time with his 21"/17" Harris scrambler.


 About the pannier rattle, here's how I fixed mine. I split some rubber tubing lengthwise, cut it to length(s) and put it over the top lips of the box body. The lids fit snug with no rattle.

 Little pads of black closed cell neoprene insulation foam between the pannier frame and the pannier box body's stops the rattle there too. A spot of contact cement will hold them in place better than friction alone 

 I had to run a bead of sealant along the vertical seam on the front of the left pannier box from top to bottom to keep the rain from being driven in.

[noisymilk]

Ice! So good to hear from you! Sorry so long to reply, I am stuck in chicago doing the Auto show here.

Hmmmm. Now I gotta think about the tires again. Hmmm. I have been taking my cues from pics of Bill Harris's bike. And also the orange one in the pics catalog. Sam something? I can't got look at it on my phone. But both look nice and strong. I wont be doing a trials or woodsman pipe, since I need my tool box and am mounting panniers.

Re: stock panniers. I think i'm still gonna ditch them. They just aren't robust enough in a getoff to where I think they would survive and be tractable while in some foreign country. I need indestructable. Which ammo cans are. It also gives me the opportunity to look into an entire rear subfram design. Might be redoing everything including how the seat mounts out of angle iron at this point. Still just daydreaming, but the cutting the fender thing is gonna happen. It just makes too much sense to be able to yank the back wheel with everything in situ.

I'm more focused on the wiring project at the moment. Since its one of the lower cost things I am doing. As soon as i'm on a real computer, I will be posting a very specific question which i'm hoping some electrical guru can answer for me.

Be safe pal! I might be up that way mid march for a vacation. First beer on me!

[noisymilk]

Alrighty guys, a question for you electrical guru's.....

I have attached the wiring diagram I am working off of to verify my bikes current wiring, and as a guide for the modifications i am going to do. So....

The parts I understand. Positive power leaves the battery, goes through fuse and keyswitch.....then to the minus side of ammeter. It then leaves the positive side of the ammeter and hits the voltage regulator (which burns off the alternator voltage overages in heat) and to power the rest of the systems. Now, that part I understand, and will be replicating when I switch the bike to higher output alternator and make the system all DC. The ammeter wants to measure the current draw of the whole system. The battery gets back charged from the alternator via the voltage ragulator which maintains a consistent (ish) voltage of the whole system, and the battery will get back charged through the ammeter if it is discharged enough to require it. Essentially the alternator and the battery behave as parallel power sources to all the other DC systems. Enough said. Understood.

I see that the ammeter has a node that is connected to Ground for obvious reasons...it is a circuit in and of itself and needs ground to perform its function. It uses a little voltage to run the ammeter.  However....the one I cannot understand.....

It appears that the grey wire also connects to the ground point of the ammeter. This grey wire carries Positive power to the running lights when the light switch is activated (I have deleted the jumper that made the running lights an all the time thing on this bike per the tons of other threads on this site). WHY? Why does the ammeter apparently see positive AND ground at the same node, which is apparently ground for the ammeter.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks so much. Be safe all.

[Arizoni]

Your link isn't working for me.

I looked at a wiring diagram for the older RE's (US/Canada versions) and it made my head hurt.  I don't know if it is the same one you linked or not.

Basically, the ammeter measures the current draw from and to the positive terminal of your battery.

Because the ground is usually negative neither the "in" or "out" terminals of the ammeter should be connected to ground.

If there is a light bulb in the ammeter, it would require a ground connection so maybe that is what your seeing.

[noisymilk]

Br Arizoni,

Damn. I bet that's what it is. The backlight to the ammeter. And probably to the speedo as well. Because all these things would turn on with the running lights. Silly me.

Thanks.

[Sam Simons]

Milk,

This link will take you to a very good article including  tire illustrations regarding dual sport tires.

   http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=437898


I use the Conti TKC's,and discarded the 19" rear rim for a 18" unit in order to get a certain look I wanted.
Unfortunately, a 120mm tire will require minor modification of the RE swing arm in order to utilize the full
range of change adjustment,and  a 130 or 140 is out of the question unless another swing arm is used.

(Sam something with the orange one.)

[boggy]

The bars look good.

[noisymilk]

A photo for inspiration



I think that decides it. 40mm ammo cans it will be.

[noisymilk]

Br Sam Simons

Yes! Yours is the awesome orange one I have been drooling over. Mine will personally be a bit more rat rod-ish than yours. I am attempting to build something that will be low key in the places I want to travel to, but be as strong as yours appears to be.

I'm still hung on whether to change the tires or not. I like the idea of running matched tires front and back. I am right now (AM26's, 100/90 19's). But I hear what everyone is saying about 18/21 vs 19/19. I just don't have enough offroad experience to make a judgement.

That said, I'm not looking at trail riding. I'm looking at adventure ride the world type of stuff. It will require offroad skills, but I'm not seeking single track paths or anything. Hmmmm.

Thanks so much for your response here. I really like what you did with your machine. Very much.

[jartist]

You could always start with new tires on the 19"rims and then switch rim sizes later if you feel you need something different.

[The Garbone]

You could try a set of Kenda K761.  Look to be cheaper than K70s and a nice dual sport tire.   Looking at the reviews people seem happy.

[jartist]

Those look pretty sweet!
 http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ27755?utm_source=googleproducts&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=ZZ27755&zmam=95452747&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=ZZ27755

[The Garbone]

About that 21" front. I don't know if you would really like it.   From what I have heard a 21" will wear out twice as fast as a 19,  has less contact patch and reduces manuverability.     

[Sam Simons]

Thank you for your comments regarding my Scrambler.
It sounds as though you'll be riding (paved) back roads and  gravel/dirt roads as well....If so,the TKC's low knob/cleat height (or any other design similar) should offer you the desired traction in either situation. If you look closely at the TKC's on my Scrambler,you'll see that the front tire's cleats wrap around the sidewall much more than so with the back unit. That's one advantage you'd have in using your existing rims. Unfortunately,the rear TKC's don't mimic that design below their 130mm size,because of the narrow swingarm,I had to use the 120 tire which doesn't look exactly the same.
If you're staying on relatively flat surfaces(paved or otherwise),then likely your existing suspension and ground clearance will suffice. There are a couple of modified RE's on the ADV Rider site that have altered suspensions.
Changing your tires (and keeping your 19" rims) would be a first good step........With the additional weight of 'boxes',you may wish to stiffen your stock suspension; easily done by preload spacers for your fork springs(or custom replacements by Progressive,etc) and replacing your rear shocks(possibly increasing their length too). That's really the limit to modding your existing suspension,and given your intended use,that's all you should  need.....(Don't despair,look at the WW2 BMW R4,R12,R61/66 machines-similar weight,tire size,power,horrible suspension; you're in a much better situation !! )


Sam

[noisymilk]

Br's Jartist, Garbone, and Sam Simons:

Wow! such a bevy of good tire conversation.

So, looking at the K761....only the rear comes in a 100/90 19. I assume you just flip it the other way and use another as the front? Thats what my AM26's specced. From a budget point of view this is the superior tire. A fair amount of reading of reviews suggests a few people find it to be not so good in the rain. However, I don't really drive the snot out of anything. I'm a pretty laid back rider. I didn't even mind the stock tires in the raid, and the Avons now are doing alright.

Now....those TKC's. Hmmmm! Good looking tire....lots of knobs and stuff. 100/90 19 sold as a front....again, flip it to make it a rear?? Its damned expensive by comparison for sure. Sam, you are correct in your estimation of my intended riding. Back roads, some dirt trails, whatever I might find in foreign countries to the south, or up in the Yukon territories. I am curious as to the road manners of this tire. Seems like it might be noisy/bumpy by comparison. Do you feel that I need something this strongly offroad by comparison to the K761? In reality, I don't mind the cost. I'll spend the money to do it right. My father in law always says about cars.....don't cheap on tires or brakes. Sounds right to me.

As far as supension goes.... I do intend to do the rear shocks. I've got my eyes on a 320mm dual sport shock from YSS. Maybe even taller. Do you have opinions regarding a good height? Keep in mind, I can flat foot a stock KLR650 (I might go look at them from time to time). And as far as Progressives go, I emailed them. They don't have specs on tap for the Enfield. Did you use that company? Or do you have another source for a good front spring? I certainly would like something that feels tighter than the stock there.

So yeah. I think for the time being keeping the 19's and trying some different tires on some trips is the way to start.

Fingers crossed, I'll be putting a new carb on next week.

[Sam Simons]

 Regarding your questions about the TKC's,Noisy,I am quite happy with their road performance-ride and adhesion are very good-no classic knobby 'lumpy' feel or borderline traction concerns.....This is surely attributed to the low height of,and close spacing of the cleats. The TKC's are described as 50/50 (on/off road) tires,and,IMO,they are(much) better than that as far as road manners are concerned. But,also contributing to the situation would be the RE's weight and low power output. If the Scrambler  had a much higher power to weight ratio,the TKC's would very  likely be 'borderline'.....

TKC tire noise?-Zero to minimal-I don't know,as my exhaust note overwhelms any of that. Because of the cleat design and placement,I'm sure that it's minimal....

K761-My impression is that these tires are either 60/40 or 70/30 -a far better road tire than an off road tire.
One question to ask yourself in order to better decide which tire, is-"How much paved road use versus un-paved surface use do I expect to encounter?"

As you already know,there are no significant(meaningful) tire width options because of the stock swingarm's limitations. There is a relatively simple mod to improve that situation,but the stock S-arm is still the show stopper in using a significantly wider tire.

Suspension- Fork springs-I have used Progressive units many times. I'm not too surprised about their lack of involvement with RE's,but,you may still be able to make use of their products but discussing your needs with their Tech Dept. They''l likely need info such as RE spring length,I.D.,O.D.,Bike & rider weights to calculate an alternative spring from their existing inventory. The use of pre-load spacers is 'low-tech',but often is a quick improvement. Obviously,too much spacer length can lead to spring coil bind under full fork compression,so watch for that possible  problem. Generally,pre-load spacers are expected to offset suspension sag resulting from age or sheer machine weight at rest. Typically,the spacers will accomplish that without creating  said coil bind.
Rear shocks- 1/2" to 1' longer perhaps,in the attempt to raise the rear to match the height change made in the front. Additional rear height will reduce your fork rake,and quicken the RE's steering..maybe an improvement for you. Consider buying shocks that are  rebuild-able and that offer internals for that purpose,so that you may carry such on a long trek....

Hope that the above points are helpful.....

[noisymilk]

Howdy! Sorry its been a bit...had to go and actually work for a few weeks.

Br Sam Simons:
Thanks for all the amazing info! I'm going to have to consider what type of riding I am planning on, obviously. Not to make this an all tire conversation....but I've come across a tire brand that has piqued my interest. Mefo's??

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/4811/765/

I'm reading lots of reviews of people who LOVE this tire and are getting 7-9k out of their rear tires with this model. Sounds good to me, and although a higher initial cost, long term seems lower. But I like the idea of Anchorage and back on one set of tires....saves the challenge of carrying replacements or locating on the go.

So!..... new to me carbeurator should arrive next week. Thanks to a forum member here, I was able to get a PWK30 for a very fair price. I'm anxious to see what effect this has on performance and fuel economy. I have now opened the air filter, the exhaust (although it could be even more open....shorty sausage silencer is whats on there now), stage 1 tuned head (likely not going the Fireball route, as I don't think I particularly need THAT level of performance). So up next in the big ticket purchase is a new barrel/piston combo. I'm thinking Ace's lightened piston with an alloy jug from somewhere. I think that and Chumma's screw on oil filter kit will finish my engine work for the time being. Gonna stick with stock bottom end for now until I am forced to pony up the cash for that. I'll just be a gentle right hander.....

Still gotta do something about my muffler. It's getting pretty rattle-y inside. Baffles are all broken loose. Maybe just drill out the baffles and see what happens?? Ideas?

I'm still brainstorming on how to hang a decent set of panniers on there. Have an idea....just need to go get the angle steel and fab it up and see if it works. If I can get my subframe replacement idea in place, then just a puck mount system of some variety for some 40mm ammo cans, and done. Oh! yeah...made up my mind to go with the smaller 40mm cans over the larger 20mm cans.

Found this to carry my tent/bedroll/sleeping bag/rain gear:

http://www.happy-trail.com/Wolfman/Expedition-Double-End-Duffle-Wolfman.aspx

I think it will do nicely. Haven't purchased yet, but its on the list soonly.

I purchased a set of Stever Stoves from a dude on Adv Rider who makes cool alcohol stoves out of aluminum beer bottles. Brilliant! (I may have mentioned this earlier in the thread....but worth saying again). I got one regular stove and one simmer stove. Take a look here. 9 bucks each shipped!  :
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431851

Ok. Thats it for now. Going out to the shop and tearing apart the front wheel to see what shape the brakes are in. There's a strange rubbing sound/feel coming from there lately. I've never inspected inside....probably dirty as all get out. So, clean and rebuild. Grease this and that. Inspect the bearings. I have it in my mind to replace the stockers with sealed improved bearings.

Be safe all.

[AgentX]

regarding front suspension, I bought YSS (seemingly Racetech clone) fork cart emulators for a project I'm working on.  Won't have them in for quite some time since the bike's still not even running, but they're a $130 or so option to try...I think the problem with the RE fork is not the springs but the crude damping, which can lead to hydraulic lock when you actually want the fork to perform best.

My experience, however, is with mountain bicycle suspension and not motos, so I shouldn't talk out my ass too much.  Still, I did immediately notice the innards of the fork are exactly the same in operation as a bicycle fork I stopped using in the 90s because the performance was way behind the times.

Of course, they're attached to a motorcycle design that most of the world stopped using about fifty years ago, so I guess it's kind of an odd thing to be picky about.

Anyhow, might be something to try if you want a better feel up front.  I will report back myself but don't have hopes for anything in the next 2-3 months at least.

[noisymilk]

Hello there all!

Ok, so my new to me 30mm Flatslide arrived yesterday. Yay! Gonna give it a good cleaning and start trying to work it onto the bike this week. It came with the solid flange mount to go straight to the head (with heat shields of course), but I am toying with the idea of just sticking with the radiator hose attachment I am using now. Anyone have opinions regarding this?

And, can someone point me to the carb settings thread a forum brother made a few years ago? I'm having a devil of a time locating it, and want to reference it for my starting point.

I'm thinking I want to set up the carb to be running properly with the needle at lowest notch/richest setting here in Phoenix (900 ft I believe)....so that as i go uphill, all I have to do is lean out the needle. Yeah?

Found the company Jet-Hot here in town. $115 bucks for header pipe coating, guaranteed for life. And they can do a flat black for me. Definitely gonna go that route. Look here:  http://www.jet-hot.com/

I think next money spent is going to be on the spin on oil filter.

I'm stumped on panniers. My initial efforts on building a pannier mount haven't panned out (no pun intended). Still have some ideas....but we'll see. Still want to do 40mm ammo cans, not the big 20 mm. Want to build this frame with a tail bag space as well. It's just a challenge, and there are no good frame points out that far. I don't know how well my fab skills will hold up to long term abuse. Anyways.

Oh! Deleted the speedo drive gear. I just punched the metal spacer out of the plastic housing to maintain the space to the fork leg. I think a sealed bearing set it in order though....the bearings are a bit exposed now. Of course, the were hardly protected underneath that little plastic jobby anyways. But I like sealed bearings....particularly if there is water in my future.

Ok, be safe all.

[noisymilk]

Forgot to mention...front brake cleaning and greasing GREATLY improved the function. It wasn't too dirty, but I doubt any maintenance had been done since purchase in there. Just took it all apart and cleaned it. Lubed the brake cams. Reattached the actuating arms to give my brake cable some more adjustment back (I think I put them back on the cams 1 tooth CCW from where they were....my brake cable was at longest adjustment just to get attached. Original setup didn't make use of the handle end adjuster. They just weren't there. Silly)

Now it bites and actually stops me. Gonna get a little allthread and some locking nuts and do the Hitchcocks upgrade that allows you to adjust each shoe individually. SIMPLE project with what I am sure will be significant improvement in operation.

Be safe guys.

[AgentX]

Man, personally, you couldn't pay me to strap those big old ammo cans on the back of my bike.  Why would you want that much weight, especially on such a low-powered bike?  On a BMW 1250 GS or a KTM Adventure or even a big old 650 single, I can see the appeal, but as someone who used to have 25mm cans bolted to the back of my LAV turret, I know those suckers are heavy!  Even the 40mm variety.

Personally, once my new ride is done, I may have someone weld up a removable rack to accept something like these:

http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/Expedition/expd_dry_saddle_bags.html

[noisymilk]

Br AgentX

Yeah, I've been eyeballing a variety of soft bags as well. Those wolfmans are nice for sure. Good stuff there. It certainly would be easier to fab up racks capable of handling those.

Been considering this for my tent/sleeping bag/bedroll: http://www.happy-trail.com/Wolfman/Expedition-Double-End-Duffle-Wolfman.aspx

It raises another question for me as well. It seems my long expeditions will be one up, so I have the seat behind me for storage. For the 2 up with the wife kind of stuff, I'm still looking at the Inder trailer sold by our hosts. That does raise some food for thought as far as soft bags go.

I'll sleep on it and see where I am in the morning.

[bob bezin]

i have had good results with an inder trailer.  had a hitch made for my triumph. ( abour 5 inches longer than the enfield hitch it came with) and took it from wis to BC. washington and oregon5518 miles. at one point a small wobble that that a thin little shim fixed  was the only problem.my triumph with the inder is my long distance ride now .                                       

[barenekd]

I'm thinking I want to set up the carb to be running properly with the needle at lowest notch/richest setting here in Phoenix (900 ft I believe)....so that as i go uphill, all I have to do is lean out the needle. Yeah?

You should drop the mainjet size 1 size for every ca.3500 ft altitude change. The stock jets really get way overrich above 5000'
Lost a race at 7000 ft once just for being lazy!
Bare

[noisymilk]

You should drop the mainjet size 1 size for every ca.3500 ft altitude change. The stock jets really get way overrich above 5000'
Lost a race at 7000 ft once just for being lazy!
Bare

This is good to know. So I am clear....once I get my carb dialled in....and figure out which main jet works well for where I am, I should be good on this setting by leaning out the needle up to say 4000 feet. Then i may need a new main jet, and that could cover me up to say 7500 feet....then next leaner up to say 11k feet. Is my thinking clear?

Keeping in mind that main jet is only for 3/4 to WOT. Hmmm...perhaps I am overthinking this. 

I don't need serious performance at all altitudes, and I don't want to be futzing with the carb 3 times a day while traveling. Just looking for rules of thumb. Thanks..

[noisymilk]

i have had good results with an inder trailer.  had a hitch made for my triumph. ( abour 5 inches longer than the enfield hitch it came with) and took it from wis to BC. washington and oregon5518 miles. at one point a small wobble that that a thin little shim fixed  was the only problem.my triumph with the inder is my long distance ride now .                                       

That's really good to know. Especially since they have come down considerably in cost since first released.

How are they for weather resistance?

[Ice]

Hey Milk,

 About performance carbs
 Many folks experience a decrease in fuel economy with them but it is not the fault of the carb. Its using that extra umph on tap more often that does it.

[Arizoni]

Milk:
If your curious, Phoenix is at 1200 feet, Tempe is at 1400 feet and Mesa is at about 1600 feet elevation.

You might want to check on the load carrying capacity of the trailer to make sure your wifes weight doesn't overload it.  

[noisymilk]

Alrighty then!

Got a few more pieces of the puzzle in place tonight.

Say bye bye to the stock carb and hello to the PWK30:


Picked this up from a forum brother. Thanks so much! OH.... it was the one that came with the flange mount attached to it. Seemed like it was JB welded on, and I didn't like it at all...placement all off and stuff, and I just wanted to mount it like the old. So, get out the plumbing torch and start burning stuff. A few minutes later and some whacks of the hammer and voila!:


gave it all a good cleaning, dropped it on the bike, and went for a spin. Immediate first impressions:
1. Idle is seeking and drifting a bit. Perhaps I need to adjust the float height some. Interwebs says 19-22 mm with carb upside down, touching but not compressing the needle. Sound right?

2. jets.....Pilot 38, Main 122. Thoughts on what I ought to purchase for the sake of dialling in? (shorty sausage muffler, straight thru header, ace aircan) From info I can find, my main seems a little lean and pilot a little rich. There is a pretty good hesitation at roll on sometimes.

3. the extra power is a nice little kick in the pants for sure. Butt dyno says 1 or 2 horsepower just putting this on. Wonder what MPG will look like.

OH! and another forum brother has hooked me up with a replacement for my rattle-y shorty sausage muffler....with another just like it, only actually pretty!


Not gonna put it on til I am able to get my header done at Jet Hot here in Tempe.

Think thats it for now.

Be safe all.

[noisymilk]

Oh yeah....and a pic for Chumma if he ever comes to look here. He sold me this some time ago to help keep me cool out here in the desert, and asked how it turned out.

I neglected to ever send him a photo....but here's an oil cooler. Soon to be replaced with his screw on filter kit.



There you go man.

[The Garbone]

Good job on the flange.

You could try a 125, I found that with the 122 it ran fine but in the summer once the temps got over 90 it would have a hint of a rich chug at wot.   Gave me the impression it was a tad rich which is a good thing.  Pulled the jug and piston and the piston looked black on top but there did not seem to be any heat damage and was in good shape.

[baird4444]

" 2. jets.....Pilot 38, Main 122. Thoughts on what I ought to purchase for the sake of dialling in? (shorty sausage muffler, straight thru header, ace aircan) From info I can find, my main seems a little lean and pilot a little rich. There is a pretty good hesitation at roll on sometimes.
3. the extra power is a nice little kick in the pants for sure. Butt dyno says 1 or 2 horsepower just putting this on. Wonder what MPG will look like. Smiley "

at 670' elevation with a K&N filter and Drilled thru silencer I was
running a 25 pilot and 125main. still a little rich but not enuff to foul a plug.
  As far as mpg's...  you'll prolly drop to about 50mpg. mostly cause it
  is so much fun to twist that sucker!!
          - Mike

[chumma7]

Hey Milk!
Project's looking good brother. Glad that oil cooler will be getting some use. I'm around here when I can though I regretfully don't post as often as I should.  It's been a busy, rewarding year, and i haven't allowed myself to really sit down and think about it much... steady working. These days It seems my hands are constantly wrapped around another engine and my brain around another design/goal.   
Well today's my birthday so I've taken a day off. It's been great to read and follow your project. The LJ revival also had me reading through his old posts which reminded me how good ole honest dialogue (and honest bickering) made this (virtual) place so substantial and relevant to us all.

Keep us posted!
Chumma

Oh yeah....and a pic for Chumma if he ever comes to look here. He sold me this some time ago to help keep me cool out here in the desert, and asked how it turned out.

I neglected to ever send him a photo....but here's an oil cooler. Soon to be replaced with his screw on filter kit.



There you go man.

[chumma7]

Almost forgot: A big fat WOWZAAAAA!! to us all on the start of another spring! Keep the rubber down people!

[Ice]

Digressing a bit here.

Chumma,
Your WOWZAAAAA!! reminds me of Br. Cabo and the conversations we had.

 Made me smile without any sadness. The torch have been passed to you at least in my mind.

Back to the thread.

 Milk, your mileage should either be un affected or slightly improve with the more efficient flat slide IF you maintain the same acceleration curve and riding style as before.

 Making often use of the now freed up ponies ( who can resist  ) will decrease the numbers somewhat depending on frequency and degree of usage of the right wrist.

 I know that you know this but am mentioning it for the benefit of our friends and curious lurkers.

[noisymilk]

Hey Chumma!!!!

Happy birthday brother. Sorry it took me a few days....i get sidetracked with life every once in a while as well.

I too have been enjoying re reading LJ's stuff....quite a thinker, that guy.

Hope it was a good one.

[noisymilk]

Alrighty, so my first day with the PWK30 didn't go so well.

I was needing to make  trip to Flagstaff (about 400 mile round trip). So I figured I would just go for it. However, within 5 miles of getting on the highway, I pulled off and put the stock Mikcarb back on (carried it with me as backup).

Symptoms:

-Idle is ALLLL over the place. Sometimes fast, then correct it, then stalling, then correct it, then too fast. Also, air screw adjustments appear to have little effect.

-At highway speeds, I felt like it was running out of fuel. This tells me my float is set wrong, correct? Am checking that today.

That said, my stocker is running perfectly, as it has for the last year and a half. But, I still want to try the flatslide some more, as SOOO many people report good things from it.

Oh, and i wouldn't say air leak problems in my airflow, because dropping Mikcarb back in yielded perfect idles and the expected rollon/rolloff behavior it always has.

Br Baird: a 25 pilot? Where did you find it? All my research says 35 is the smallest to be found for this carb??? I have one of them on order, and located a 128 main to go along with the 122 I currently have.

So that brings the inventory to :
Mains - 122 and 128
Pilots - 35 (soon) and 38
clip - second from bottom (second from richest setting)

Just need a little free time to go do plug chops. Oh, and try to find a frickin hill here in the desert to do WOT tests on.

Next on the list...the oil filter. And an oil change.

Be safe all.

[baird4444]

  " Br Baird: a 25 pilot? Where did you find it? All my research says 35 is the smallest to be found for this carb??? I have one of them on order, and located a 128 main to go along with the 122 I currently have. "

  I went to my local YamaZuki dealer and talked to the part guy. Take one with you to
match up....  tell him yer looking for Keihin jets... same as the PWK
       most likely for a snowmobile.
                          - Mike

[AgentX]

Question, since I also like to change altitudes: 

Can CV carbs provide equivalent or near-equivalent performance to standard models?

[barenekd]

CV carbs have worked fine on the bikes I've owned with them, and they are better for altitude changes. My GB500 has one and it works a lot better than the flat slide I put in it. And very well at high altitudes.
Bare

[noisymilk]

Br AgentX

Yeah, I have considered a CV carb for this project as well. If anyone has a stock AVL takeoff they want to sell me, I might try that route as well. I figure, klr650's have been using them for 25 years. They must be good.

We'll see if I can source one, and i'll dial it in as well for mine and others edification.

[jartist]

If you're familiar with the KLR carby you could use a keihin cvk34 from a kawasaki ninja 500.  Probably could be had for $50 from fleabay.  You'd have to guess on the jetting to get started tho.

[Ice]

 I like CV carbs because the continuously variable venturi is always near optimum diameter which promotes intake velocity and fine fuel atomization.

[noisymilk]

Br's Ice and Jartist:

Well, looked around on the interwebs a bit a a CV carb that fits the bill. Found a 30mm CV carb that needs 12V (auto choke, right?) thats designed for scooters. Think thats worth a try? Certainly, CV probably fits the bill long run for what I am trying to do with the bike. There's several mountain passes and the like in my future.

That said, I'm setting out again shortly to try out the PWK30. From what I can tell...this is actually a JRC engineering carb. Because Keihins have a round twist off top, and this one is boxish and take a screwdriver to remove. Also, I manage to bootch up the gasket up there....I made it up with Gaffers tape for now, but already found replacements for a few buck online.

I reset the float height to something more resembling what people say it should be. It was quite low, which would explain the starving at bigger throttle openings I was feeling (admittedly though, it was a brief run with it previously). Started right up and settled into a nice steady idle initially in the garage. Of course...did that before too. Then idle started hunting and seeking all over again.

Still 38 pilot, 1.5 turns out. But trying 128 main with clip second notch from top (second from leanest). I figure starting with the richer jet isn't a bad idea. Don't really feel like blowing up a piston right now.

I'll post back with what I find.

Be safe all.

[Ice]

I think I know the carby you're looking at. Its also available in 32mm 
One just might show up on my go anywhere do anything Bullet some day.

BTW the electric automatic choke is a thermistor controlled enrichener valve.

 The scooterists I have spoken with are pretty pleased with the operation of those chokes.


Wait,,,,,,,do you have one on your green scooter ?

[noisymilk]

Ice -

Yeah, I'm 99% certain there is  CV24 or 26 on my scoot. I am seriously considering going that route (scooter type CV carb with electric choke) for this project. While the carb I got from Br Garbone was likely a good worker for him, I am struggling with it. Was out yesterday....idle would go from stalling to running 2k rpm's sitting there. Once off idle, it seemed good. Odlly...this is how my Mikcarb was behaving previously...then it just sort of got better. Starts great, idles solid. Weird voodoo these things.

And my Mikcarb is perfectly dialed and tuned.

I can source a scooter carb for about $100. I'll think about it.

My next money is on the oil filter from Chumma though. Just gotta get the money now.

So yeah. What does anyone think about truck bed liner for painting the tires?   

I might do it.

Be safe all.

[noisymilk]

Alrighty. So. Which one do you all think.

This:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keihin-Carburetor-CVK30-150cc-GY6-engine-/220561887238?hash=item335a835006&item=220561887238&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-scooter-CVK-32mm-carb-250-VOG-Honda-Helix-/280477095987?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item414dbcd833&vxp=mtr

Oh!!! I found my new turn signals. Check these out! LED turn signal/front flood lights all in one:

Check out http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/StoreFront.bok These guys have some slick stuff. Pricy, but well reviewed by people I trust.

OK. CV carbs. Lets talk about it a lot. Not interested in ridiculous performance....interested in reliability through a variety of altitudes. Anyone have any better ideas?

It's getting warmer folks....get riding!

[Arizoni]

I don't know much about the model numbers for carbs but it seems strange that something that looks like it might be a 30mm carburetor would be (and I'm quoting), "...suitable for models: Vento, Matrix, Veloce, Baccio, Strada and Wussi 125cc and 150cc+ scooters and ATV".

Does this guy know of a 125cc machine that really uses a 30mm carb?

Also, a $35 shipping fee sounds a bit much for something that weighs maybe 1 1/2 pounds?

At least the second carb is supposed to be good for a 300 cc bike.
Again, quoting: "Performance race CVK quality 32mm carburetor for the 250cc, 260cc, 275cc, 300cc  four stroke chinese scooter/atv buggy engines."

Of course, that is a "chinese" [sic] engine.  Maybe the 500cc Indian engines like them?   

[Ice]

 Our four stroke motors pull air/fuel half as often as two strokes do, hence the carb/engine size references.

[barenekd]

I use to have a 30 mm Amal concentric on a 100cc Hodaka Super Rat in a Rickman frame.  That was one rippin' MX bike even with my 170 pounds on it. I weighed more that it did! I won every race I finished and led every one that I didn't finish. It had a nasty habit of spitting piston rings.
Bare

[noisymilk]

Hello all!

It been a bit, since I had to actually work for a little while. Damn the man.

So the JRC 30mm flatslide will be moving on to greener pastures, along with my ammo can style panniers. I located a Mikuni CVK34 (I think that's the model) that was a stock takeoff from a kawasaki KLX250s. Kid sold it to me for 20 bucks. Very very clean, needs jets. Anyone have opinions on where to start? I am figuring basing it on the BS29 for startesrs with a 15 pilot and a 115 main? Do those numbers sound ridiculous?

If I could just get this scooter sold, I could fund the rest of this project. Sigh. Ifigured it would have been sold by now.

Anyways. There it is for now.

Be safe all. Go ride. Its getting nice again.

[Ice]

Oh CRAP,,,,there is a well respected carb dealer and parts supplier that will gladly tell you the recommended start point for jets and settings for your application.  If I could only remember who they are 

My sincere apologies brothers.

[baird4444]

I don't know if this will help or not...
carb jet comparison chart....;


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Width------Keihin # -- DynoJets # -- Mikuni #

0,0540---- 140--------- 130--------- 121,9
0,0550---- 142,5------- 132--------- 123,8
0,0560---- 145--------- 134--------- 125,6
0,0570---- 147,5------- 136--------- 127,5
0,0580---- 150--------- 138--------- 129,4
0,0590---- 152,5------- 140--------- 131,3
0,0600---- 155--------- 142--------- 133,1
0,0610---- 157,5------- 144--------- 135,0
0,0620---- 160--------- 146--------- 136,9
0,0630---- 162,5------- 148--------- 138,8
0,0640---- 165--------- 150--------- 140,6
0,0650---- 167,5------- 152--------- 142,5
0,0660---- 170--------- 154--------- 144,4
0,0670---- 172,5------- 156--------- 146,3
0,0680---- 175--------- 158--------- 148,1
0,0690---- 177,5------- 160--------- 150,0
0,0700---- 180--------- 162--------- 151,9
0,0710---- 182,5------- 164--------- 153,8
0,0720---- 185--------- 166--------- 155,6
0,0730---- 187,5------- 168--------- 157,5
0,0740---- 190--------- 170--------- 159,4
0,0750---- 192,5------- 172--------- 161,3
0,0760---- 195--------- 174--------- 163,1
0,0770---- 197,5------- 176--------- 165,0
0,0780---- 200--------- 178--------- 166,9
0,0790---- 202,5------- 180--------- 168,8
0,0800---- 205--------- 182--------- 170,6
0,0810---- 207,5------- 184--------- 172,5
0,0820---- 210--------- 186--------- 174,4
0,0830---- 212,5------- 188--------- 176,3
0,0840---- 215--------- 190--------- 178,1
0,0850---- 217,5------- 192--------- 180,0
0,0860---- 220--------- 194--------- 181,9

[barenekd]

Wot?! No Amals?
Bare

[noisymilk]

Br Barenekd -

nope. No Amal's here. I'm actually getting good performance from stocker. Just trying to figure out which way to go for dual sport/adventuring. This CVK34 is ridiculously clean. Looks like its never been run.

Br Baird:
I'll see if that cross reference chart helps. I'm not sure.....never dialled in an unknown carb from scratch. However, not as many options with CVK type. Fingers crossed I can get it to work. If not, I'm not out a whole lot of money.

I have read people say that slight larger CV than standard carb gives good results. I'm hoping 34mm isn't too big. Some people here are running TM34's and the like with success. So we will see.

Theres a Kawasaki shop up the street, so parts isn't a problem. Just gotta figure out the throttle cable situation. Uses a different nub at the carby end than vm28/tm30 did.

Gonna be riding the next to weeks while I gig in southern cal. Hello Coachella Festival! So not much work will be done until then. Be safe all.

[jartist]

I think you'll really like that CVK once you get it worked out. Are you sure it's not a Keihin? If it is check out this site:
 http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm
The ninja 500 uses two cvk34s so one on a bullet is probably just about right 

[noisymilk]

Br Jartist,

I stand corrected. Its a Keihin. Been looking and reading about so many carbs lately that I can't even keep them straight. Its a stock takeoff from a late model KLX250s




Unbelievably clean, like I said. Doesn't even look like its been run. So yeah, I am thinking starting with stock BS29 equivalent jetting (thats whats on the AVL's) plus 1 jet size.

That said, I just spent the last week tooling around southern Californina doing what I do in my other life (soundguy....working Coachella festival this time around). Took the bike across the desert....I-10 the whole way. It did wonderfully. I was absolutely the guy pissing people off in the slow lane, but still. Started like a dream. Ran strong. Blew ALLL kinds of oil out the breather. I did a little over 600 miles and used an entire quart of oil. But whatever. I'm thinking about reinstating my catch can out there by the license plate, just to stop some of the gunk getting all over everything.

(side note, i know some of you guys are running your fireballs up at speed a lot. And I know there's really no way getting around the amount of oil that will get blown out the breather at speed. What are you guys doing to keep your bikes becoming a rolling oil sheened patina?)

Now, the fun part. I have to go do the same festival this weekend. Same ride, same conditions mostly. And I am borrowing a friends KLR 650 for the trip this time. Side by side comparison. Should be fun. Because lets face it, the Enfield is a struggle at times (sans fireball, that is).

So, my parts purchasing order has been amended a bit I think.
-Chumma's oil filter kit
-I think the crank is back on the table to be done a-la Ace Engineering
-alloy barrel
-higher compression piston and retimed by one tooth cams (another thing Ace has talked about extensively)

The question is, do I do a 535 and get an Ace piston? Or do I just get a higher compression 500 piston? Price is similar (still have to do crank, barrel, and piston no matter what).....but I like fuel economy more that higher power. I was keeping a steady 65-70 mpg this past week, even running it on the highway. Will a 535 kill me in that department (noting that I am sticking with VM28 or this CV34 if I can get it working)?

Been looking long and hard at various other dual sports too. DR650, klr650, drz400. There's even a handful of smaller displacements ones I like. WR250R, DR200se, klx250s. All alphabet soup plastic machines, sure. But right tools for the job, and I think the wife might accept 2 bikes in my stable in the long run. (I don't have a car that is exclusively mine....that helps)

So yeah. I'm still continuing with this project. Think I've settled on Mefo tires and a set of Hagon shocks thats been recommended. Still waffling on the luggage situation (hard bags, soft bags, or just get an Inder and pull it to Alaska with me). Sticking with stock casquette for now, with the Radon speedo. Rewire, improved coil, blah blah blah electrics. DEFINITELY put that military front engine guard back on and put some sort of highway peg out there.

But there is for sure a more purpose built dual sport in my future as well.

Thanks all for letting me waffle on and on down here in the basement about what to do with my bike.

Be safe, get out there and ride!

[noisymilk]

Hello there all,

so I have a project that I am using to try and drum up cash for the Enfield dual sport project.

Aw shit yeah!


Yup. 71 Commando engine on a featherbed frame. And a pile of extra parts including a replacement crank, as stock engine will rattle your teeth out when not isolastically mounted.


(yes, that's a set of Amal carbs on the dual intake pipes ready to go)

My father in law and I acquired this project for....wait for it....$800. If I can even get it running, thats easily about $4k. Hell, people are selling featherbed frames for $500. That will go a LONG way in the Enfield world. (I don't really have an interest in keeping this Norton either). Hell, I'd sell it as the basket case it is right now for $2k. But, I'm gonna clean it up and list it this week in the state its in, then start tearing it down.

Now, on to other things. I rode the KLR back and forth to Cali again the other weekend. It goes nice and fast on the highway as expected, and water cooling was far superior,....but the Enfield is more comfortable. And I like its ride ergo's in general a lot more. So I'm not crazy seeking to make the Enfield my adventure bike still.

Did  trip to the Grand Canyon and back this past weekend. I reinstated the catch can hanging on the rear pannier mounts as such:


This was an effort to reduce the puking of oil all over the back of my bike while riding. It worked admirably well, right up until it puked oil out of the top tube there because I didn't empty it in 400 miles. Also give a good idea of how much oil is going out the breather. Mind you, this whole run was I-17 at 60+ MPH. I put a little more than a quart of oil in it over the course of the trip. Probably a third of that went out the breather, in 400 miles. The rest I have to assume I'm burning up and losing out the exhaust (New barrel/piston/rings is part of this project for sure). The good part was, the quality of the oil I got out of the catch can was such that I could likely have just dumped it back in the engine.

Still haven't had any time to play with my pretty new CVK carb. Maybe this week I can go get some jets and the bits to try and make a throttle cable that will work with it. Maybe.

Still set on ditching the stock saddle cans. They just aren't very robust for what I'm looking at doing.

Ok, be safe all. Guess I'll be playing Norton dude again for a while.

[1 Thump]

If that tank  will fit a bullet i am interested. PM SENT.

[noisymilk]

If that tank  will fit a bullet i am interested. PM SENT.

PM sent.

[cochi]

Milk, I've been following your project since you started posting about it, I'm kind of living vicariously through you, Looking foreward to reading about your travels, I have an 03 Classic Bullet with the usual mods. I also experienced the oil puking that you discussed in the last post. I  ended up getting the breather mod kit, from our host . It returns the oil blown out of the crank case vent to the oil tank. It has decreased the oil consumption to almost nothing. It is one of the best mods that I have made. If you have last years Nfield catalog, it's on page 26. You may want to take a look at it. Enjoy the ride. cochi 

[noisymilk]

Br Cochi!

How have I never heard of this device! This will be my next purchase after the oil filter from Chumma.

And, hey, I have some money to spend! Successfully sold the little scoot that took me to canada. So I have about 1300 to put into this project now. Yay! Gotta figure out what to do now.

[cochi]

Milk, so you sold the Buddy? They are neat little machines. I live in Philadelphia and Buddies are the most popular scooters here. I talked to about a half a dozen owners of 50' s and 125's and they had not a bad thing to say about them. They seem very durable. Hope to get a 125 eventually for my wife . Of course I'll have to "borrow" it from time to time. Again, good luck with the project and please keep posting. Enjoy that $1300. cochi

[noisymilk]

Milk, so you sold the Buddy? They are neat little machines. I live in Philadelphia and Buddies are the most popular scooters here. I talked to about a half a dozen owners of 50' s and 125's and they had not a bad thing to say about them. They seem very durable. Hope to get a 125 eventually for my wife . Of course I'll have to "borrow" it from time to time. Again, good luck with the project and please keep posting. Enjoy that $1300. cochi

Yup, sold the Buddy. It's a fantastic scooter. Did you read about my ride to Canada on it? Its linked in my sig line down there. I got the scoot originally for $1500, put an improved shock and a solo seat on it, and went for a ride.

Might buy my friend Deans eventually, but really wanted to move forward on the Enfield project here.

[noisymilk]

Alrighty! So.....

I have pulled the trigger on some of the upgrades here. Have purchased the screw on oil filter kit that Chumma sells. Also am doing the Ace 535 piston/cylinder (he matches them up)....but on stock bottom end. I know, I know....everyone has had their say. I'm gonna try it. 2mm spacer and rephased stock cams once all is said and done. Should leave me with better cooling, more hill pulling torque, and a need to stay off the happy handle to not torpedo the stock crank.

Also purchased that breather mod kit, to try and keep the oil in the damn engine. (thanks Cochi for pointing that out) We'll see how it works. Also purchased the Radon speedo (although back ordered at the moment) as I am going to keep the stock casquette. I had been thinking of getting the blank fork tops and doing a trailtech Vapor with a Baja style round headlight. But that seems too far removed from what an enfield is. Plus, thats VERY expensive. I'm just going to put some after market LED floods on for additional brightness when needed.

Anxiously awaiting the brown truck.

[cochi]

Milk, haven't had the pleasure to read all of your Canadian adventure. I was able to read about your prepping of the Buddy. The trip must have been incredible! I like  the challenge of touring on light to middle weight bikes.  I also like your idea of going for the Ace 535 kit and leaving the bottom end alone. It goes against conventional thinking, but it would interesting to see how a stock, well maintained, bottom end holds up. I have a little over 20k on my 03. Bottom end so far seems fine. I do change the oil every 2k with Castrol synthetic for classic cars. It has a zinc additive. I think if  you keep the rpms below 5k it should be OK. By the way, what does Ace have to say  the idea? cochi   

[Lwt Big Cheese]

Mmm Leaving the bottom end only goes against conventional thinking on here where throwing money at the bike is de riguer.

Other places don't worry to much.

[GreenRE]

Alrighty! So.....

I have pulled the trigger on some of the upgrades here. Have purchased the screw on oil filter kit that Chumma sells. Also am doing the Ace 535 piston/cylinder (he matches them up)....but on stock bottom end. I know, I know....everyone has had their say. I'm gonna try it. 2mm spacer and rephased stock cams once all is said and done. Should leave me with better cooling, more hill pulling torque, and a need to stay off the happy handle to not torpedo the stock crank.

Also purchased that breather mod kit, to try and keep the oil in the damn engine. (thanks Cochi for pointing that out) We'll see how it works. Also purchased the Radon speedo (although back ordered at the moment) as I am going to keep the stock casquette. I had been thinking of getting the blank fork tops and doing a trailtech Vapor with a Baja style round headlight. But that seems too far removed from what an enfield is. Plus, thats VERY expensive. I'm just going to put some after market LED floods on for additional brightness when needed.

Anxiously awaiting the brown truck.

Milk,
Would you know if the Radon has LED flasher indicators. Also, you could use HID headlight in the stock casquette. It has been done before succesfully.

[noisymilk]

Hello there GreenRE!
I'm not sure what you mean by a LED indicator. It has a single flasher, like the stock headlight. So the pickoff for the indicator will need to be between the flasher and the switch. Not a problem there. And yeah, I have been looking into HID kits. Do you have any experience with reliable vendors? There apparently is a wide variety of quality out there.

Br's Cochi and Big Cheese:
Ace has said (wisely) he can make no guarantee's about the bottom end. I get it. He is a performance guru, and wants to make sure I understand that if my stock crank was built at 4pm on a Friday afternoon, it might not hold up. It's fine, and if I torpedo it, well I have options. I'm also of the opinion if I keep the happy handle running under 4500 rpm I should be good, even with the addtional torque I'll be asking of it with the 535/higher compression/rephased cam thing. We'll see...I keep you all informed, and YMMV.

Hello all! I have been gone for a few weeks working. Still gonna be gone, but parts started coming it. The breather mod kit arrived....and was for the screw off oil cap. Not mine. Shit....on its way back now. Same with the replacement clutch cable...I got a pre-99 for some reason. So its gone back too. Told them to just hold until Radon comes in and send all the right stuff together.

My cylinder and piston are en route or already at Ace's. Looking forward to getting that and dropping it on as soon as he can do his magic to it. A question to those who have done 535 kits....did your carb need lots of adjusting? In my head, it seems a one size up jet in both position (stock mikcarb for now....will fiddle with my CV carb after I get the bike running reliably and smootly again and rebroken in). And run it a bit rich for runin. Am I having stinkin thinkin?

Oh! got the spin off oil filter kit from Chumma. It's a sexy piece. I'll post photo's once it's mounted.

And I think I will still have enough budget to do the rewire on the bike once all the other is done. I'm gonna use a fuzeblock on the rig. And the upgraded charging system from Sparx. The bike will be all DC when I'm done. Hence the reason the HID kit is still being considered (although not budgeted for at this point).

So yeah....there it sits for now.

Be safe all. Glad the weather is good everywhere now. Go RIDE!

[The Garbone]

I did what Ace told me to do on the carb settings.  Perfect setup the first shot, no issues at all.

[Lwt Big Cheese]

Good call with the bottom end I reckon. Need more pics 

[cochi]

What Lwt said. More pics! cochi 

[noisymilk]

You are correct! More pics!

I am back from the dead. Actually, from being out of town working for about a month. Fortunately for me, that means I don't really need to work again for another month and a half or so. And look what greeted me when I got home!




My breather kit modification! This will hopefully help relieve the inordinate amount of oil puking from the breather. Pretty trick, actually. Unscrew currently oil tank neck. Screw this in place. Screw old neck on top. Route breather into lower inlet, route upper inlet either to the chain, or in my case i will just continue to route to the back of the bike. Oil goes in and drops back into oil tank, airpressure continues onward out the duckbill with MUCH less oil in it. I purchased this on Br. Cochi's suggestion, and am hopeful.

Hey, look what Chumma sent me!




This is the screw on oil filter mount that he sells. It's a complete package, and since my rocker feed lines are already cut and plumbed into an external oil cooler (also from Chumma I might add....old part he had), I should just need to drill my engine mounting plate and drop this thing right in in it's place:



Hello clean oil.

So, apparently CMW is no longer able to source the Radon speedometer. Bummer. Not sure what to do for a speedo/tach/trip computer. The Acewell 2853 looks right, but is hard to source in the states. I was hoping to maintain a somewhat stock look and avoid doing things like a Trailtech computer or whatever. Still hunting for ideas there....

And am in a holding pattern while Ace gets enough orders together to do another run of barrels/piston stuff with Mondello. Very much looking forward to that little bit.

Hopefully these couple bits will be on this week. I may just forgo a speedo for now and do my exhaust coating and rear shocks instead. Also I need to get these old panniers off and in the mail to Ice along with the carby I promised him like 17 years ago.

Ok all. Be safe out there.

[jartist]

Glad to see your update! I was wondering how it was going. I'm happy with the stock speedo and a dry erase marker on the handlebar clamp as a trip meter myself.  Something like a trail-tech would give you a rev counter and engine temp though.

[noisymilk]

Br Jartist,

Yeah, but so does an Acewell 2853 or the like. I had emailed Baja Designs (current North American supplier) and they don't carry the round ones anymore. Just emailed an English supplier....we'll see what response I get.

Yeah, I mostly want the other stuff. Don't really care about speed. I want tach and engine temp. If I can't get it done with something that fits in stock casquette, I 'll save my bucks and go Trailtech and fork toppers that delete the casquette and some sort of Baja headlight....full on dual sport style. But thats a chunk of change for sure.

 

[cochi]

Milk, good to hear from you. The oil filter set up looks like it's nicely made. I hope that the crank vent kit works as well for you as it has for me. Thanks for the pics and the update. cochi

[Lwt Big Cheese]

Milk. I just Googled Acewell 2853 from here in the UK and got an ebay link.

The supplier is OC Superbike in Huntington Beach Calif.

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php?action=post;topic=12951.90;last_msg=155975

[noisymilk]

Br Big Cheese,

Thanks for the heads up. Email has been sent.

Just noticed....no temp on this particular gauge. Bummer....Radon speedo has temp sensing. Not a deal breaker though. Accurate (ish) speedo, tach, trip odo. And hey....a fuel gauge!!! Heh! Whatever. Anyways....

Just looking for that little free time to get out to the man cave and work a bit now.

[Lwt Big Cheese]

 

[1 Thump]

I am getting a radon from a supplier from India. http://royalmotorcycle.com/products.php?cats=vintage_parts

[noisymilk]

1 Thump,

heya! I have an email into them as well. We'll see what response I get. Seems no one actually wants to sell me a speedo.

Alright guys. Just accumulated the fundage. I have $400 left at the moment. Plus a few more bucks if I would get off my ass and sell the panniers and carb. And this list of things I want to do:

Speedo - most around $200
Shocks - $300 ish
Rotor/stator upgrade - $300 ish
Header coating - $125
Rewiring the bike - $150 ish

I'm putting off the panniers for now. Considering the Givi's from Hitchcocks....or waiting until they will just sell me the frames and I can mount something of my own making.

What do you think I should do?

Currently leaning towards speedo and header coating, and saving the rest for shipping on the piston/barrel when its done. BUT.....anyone think I should blow all that off and get the shocks instead?

Thanks guys. Be safe. Might finally get some time tomorrow to put on the bits I showed earlier.

[noisymilk]

Just a quick one here....

Got the breather mod kit installed. All of 15 minutes....totally easy.

Before:


And after:


Reverse angle:


Simple as pie. The old neck unscrewed easily and with no scarring (well...that paint is tired....but I like the rat look). Am gonna go put a few miles on now and see how it goes.

Be safe all.

Quick addendum to this. Ran about 30 miles pushing 55-60...my typical speed. Brought it back and let it sit overnight in the garage without the drip tray under the breather (which is still routed out the back). Not a single drip from the duckbill....which would usually have left a decent puddle. Awesome.

[Lwt Big Cheese]

I have a bicycle speed on mine. Cost me £5. Using one for now would allow you to buy something more essential. 

[noisymilk]

Br. Big Cheese: good point. 

Got some awesome info today....piston and barrel are done! Paypalled some money, and it will be here in a timely manner. Yes!!! I cannot wait.

Think I'll focus on getting these couple changes dialled in, the regroup and go from there.

Also, am doing a 400 mile round trip to Flagstaff tomorrow. This should be a good indicator of how well this breather mod is working at keeping the oil where it belongs.

Be safe all.

[cochi]

Milk, glad to hear the vent kit worked for your short ride. it should do well on your 400 mile run. Never the less keep an eye on the oil level. Looking foreward to hearing how the new piston and cylinder work. Be careful. Thanks for the updates. I think a lot us are living vicariously through your adventure!! Thanks again. cochi    

[jartist]

+1 on the bicycle speedometer. I have a $30 sigma unit on my bmw and it's more accurate than any moto speedo and has a clock, trip, and total miles features.

[noisymilk]

Hello All! 

Been a bit...life keeps happening.

Anyways, here's a happy making photo:


That would be an Ace piston and an alloy cylinder honed to spec. Yay!

However, in my last post, I mentioned a ride to and from Flagstaff. On that ride, I think I did some damage. It was a hot day (110 degrees) and I likely didn't stop enough when coming home. Pretty sure I receded my exhaust valve again. Shit.

Spoke to Ace, and am gonna send him the head to see if any of the heat shedding qualities of his fireball can be done, without doing all the flow work (I'm not doing a fireball....more of a modified clubman....). So, off with the head!


Actually, not off yet...its a little stuck again. Gotta get out the tools I used last time to get the dang thing off. Anyways.

And another update. That Norton that was my quick money turn around:


Yeah. I'm gonna build it too. My father in law has dreams of riding it. So I'm gonna build it for him to ride at least a few times, then maybe sell it. This bike is gorgeous. I have proper cases and a proper crank to replace these pieces with (this engine is straight out of a 71 frame and will apparently shake your balls off without proper isolastics....and is hard mounted in this slimline frame. Hence the crank.)

Anyways. Thats the quick update. Hope everyone is out riding.

Be safe all.

[noisymilk]

Hello all!

Hope this is finding you all riding and enjoying pleasant weather.

Me? Well, haven't been doing shit down here in hell...I mean Phoenix. We've been getting 110deg plus days for weeks, so my desire to go out to my man furnace...I mean man-cave has been low. Still have a lovely perfect Ace piston and barrel sitting there....awaiting delivery this week of the 2mm spacer to go ahead and fit it. Still haven't sent off the head to Ace for attention.....still haven't dismounted the panniers and sent them off either. Sigh.

Did get a few parts in for my future efforts to switch to this CVK carb. Hoping it works out well. Seems like a good choice for me.

Also, in my endless poking around for ways to waste money, I found what looks like a pretty slick LED replacement for the headlamp. Might be a nice way to reduce power consumption when I do the Sparx upgrade. Take a look:

https://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=92025&langId=-1

Anyways...lower temps are forecast for the coming weeks....hopefully I can dig into this and get her running once good riding weather revisits this desert dweller.

Be safe all.

[motorat]

you can get that on amazon...but it is still over 200 for a headlight.

http://www.amazon.com/Truck-Lite-27270C-Round-LED-Headlamp/dp/B007K8AA7I

[jartist]

Low beam is 23watts which is great but the high beam is still almost 50 watts which isn't much better than incandescent.  I'll bet it's super bright on high beam.

[barenekd]

Also, in my endless poking around for ways to waste money, I found what looks like a pretty slick LED replacement for the headlamp. Might be a nice way to reduce power consumption when I do the Sparx upgrade. Take a look:

Pretty nice, too expensive!
Bare

[noisymilk]

Never said it was an intelligent use of money. 

I just like to post the silly farkles that I find.

[cochi]

Milk, how did the crankcase vent kit from our host work on your last trip? cochi

[barenekd]

Only meant it's out of my budget, Would do it if it were cheaper! I love to unload the alternator with everything I can. LEDs in most of the rest of the places! Only the headlight and turn signals are left, and they probably will continue to be.
Bare

[noisymilk]

Greetings all! A bit of thread necromancy here....but anyways. After a long delay, I have finally started to move forward on my project again. The funny thing about the desert is, just as everyone else's riding season is coming to a close, mine is just getting started. With that said, I didn't want to miss a bunch of months of good riding with my Enfield in pieces.....so the head is on the way to Ace at Mondello's. Noooo....not for the full treatment. But to have a look at my (likely) receding exhaust valve (again). And to see if any of his magic head shedding treatments would be worthwhile without doing the flow work. It ships tomorrow morning.

And since I was getting my hands dirty, I started pulling the barrel and piston with the intent of going ahead and placing the Ace piston and barrel that have been sitting in my shop all summer. You'll recall I had the usual trouble getting the head off....so much for reusing the carbon fiber gasket (new one is already here):


Fair amount of carbon buildup on the piston:


And interestingly enough, the bottom piston ring (scraper?) was in place but broken:


They were all moving freely enough, so no distortion of the piston, and the old iron bore is still nice and clean and free from gouges. I think I will box it and keep it as backup in case of future failures. I have a set of OEM rings around here in that event.

Now, I was checking the crank by hand just to make sure it seemed still good. It rotates cleanly, the arm has no wiggle or play fore and aft....but there is some side to side play. Is this a major problem? (You'll recall I'm doing this modified clubman build on a stock bottom end for now)

Also took of the plate I need to drill to mount the Chumma oil filter kit....will drill that tomorrow hopefully. Anyone want the cooler I was using?

Panniers should come off tomorrow. STILL going back and forth on how to handle the luggage situation. Soft bags? like wolfmans? Hard cases? How the f--- to mount them decently? Inder trailer? Moto-mule (google it...its cool)? Well, I'm not leaving for Alaska tomorrow, so I have time to decide.

Ok. That's it for this installment of Milk can't make up his mind. Be safe all.

[noisymilk]

Oh! Also found an ebay vendor selling the Radon speedo for a fair price. So its back on the table as a plan....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RADON-Digital-Speedometer-Enfield-Bullet-Motorcycle-Electra-Machismo-/280890580610

There was a forum brother here who installed one a few years back.....I've forgotten who, but is anyone using this? Is it holding up well?

[Arizoni]

I'm sure someone can tell you what sort of limits to look for in the side to side movement of the connecting rod but IMO, it's going to be quite a bit more than one would expect.

Rather than having a pressed in bearing liner like most auto's the Royal Enfield uses a rather unique "floating bearing" sleeve.
It has radial clearance on both the inside (to the crank pin) and on the outside (to the bore in the connecting rod).

This double set of clearances will allow the rod to tilt sideways much further than a sleeve bearing that only has clearance with the crank pin.
I would expect to see at least twice the amount of tilting of the connecting rod without any real problem being present.

[ace.cafe]

It is considered permissible to have up to 4-5mm of side to side play with the stock rod and floating bush.
You shouldn't feel any up/down play.

[noisymilk]

Br's Arizoni and Ace,

Yes, no up and down play are apparent. Actually feels remarkable solid. Was just worried about the lateral movement I could feel/see.

Very well then. I will proceed with my build (all cautions from everyone about stock bottom end have been well heard). Maybe get the barrel and piston on tonight when I get home. Yeah!

[noisymilk]

Ok guys, quick question here.....

When one is doing to modification to the timing with stock cams, you are simply pulling the gear that lifts the intake and turning it one tooth counter clockwise, correct?

[ace.cafe]

Correct.
Put the engine on TDC first, so that the dots on the cam gears are lined up with each other first.
Then you can take the intake cam off and move it counterclockwise by one-tooth, and put it back on. Then you can see that you have done it correctly because the dots are not lined-up anymore, and the intake dot is one tooth higher than the exhaust tooth.

Of course, you must have our high compression piston on your engine when you do this for your build. Don't do this until you are going to install the high compression piston.

Here's what it should look like when you're done.

[noisymilk]

Thread necromancy here!

Hey hey! Look what just got back to me from Tom / the Mondello shop!



Yup. Got the head back. I thought the exhaust valve was receding (again) because I likely drove it too long in the heat (again). So sent it to get repaired by the good folks there, and an effort at adding some heat shedding stuff. I guess this is a magic goo inside the head:



And some treatment on the exhaust port to keep the heat moving out and down the pipe:



So that, plus the nice new external oil filter which can also add some cooling properties....the alloy barrel....and some judicious riding on my part and hopefully this becomes a lovely reliable(ish) bike.

I ordered a bunch of jets for the CVK34 I am going to try and dial in, but will probably do the breakin with the reliable and known Mikcarb. (25 pilot, 127.5 main on richest clip) I figure rich is good while running in. Then once there is stability there, I can work on tuning in the CVK. Maybe give me a little more throttle stability with altitude changes that I am looking at.

And hey! Picked up this gem on ebay:



It's a stock 500 crank that has let go. Got it for 25 bucks plus shipping. Perfect for sending off for the crank improvements that are offered. I am holding out until Chumma is done with their improved floating bush that is in testing right now. It seems to be their budget conscious option they are trying to set up. And since I am not building a fire breathing monster here, I think it might suit me well.

Hope to have the machine together and running again by this weekend. Merry Christmas present for me maybe.  By the way....anyone reading this. The oil scraper rings for pistons that are 3 parts....does the wiggly part get sandwiched between the other 2?

Ok, be safe all.

[barenekd]

The oil scraper rings for pistons that are 3 parts....does the wiggly part get sandwiched between the other 2?

Yes

[ace.cafe]

The "wiggly part" goes on first, and should butt ends, but not overlap when it is installed.
The scrapers go above it and below it in the groove.

[noisymilk]

It lives!

Ok, so the whole "gonna get it together this weekend as an early christmas present to myself" thing kinda went out the window. But, put it all very carefully together (even learned how to check the gap on the piston rings). Put some MMO into the piston. Lots of kicking to try and move some oil into the brand new oil filter. LOTS of kicking.

But hey hey, it started up second kick!

And promptly filled my garage with smoke.  Exhaust leak at the head and the usual "been sitting for several months" crap. Had to run it for a minute or 2 several times to get the oil up to the rockers (left the covers off so I could verify when it got there). Didn't want to let it get super hot, just wanted to hear it run.

So as I said before, stock Mikcarb, stock slide, 127.5 main (richest needle setting), 25 pilot. Jedi Council....does this seem a good place to start for running in in Phoenix (1200 ish feet)?

Gonna do something about the exhaust leak at the head. I think I might try beer can shims instead of silicone sealant. I read somewhere that Ace and others do this to good effect. And immediate riding is nice, rather than waiting overnight. Plus, when money is available, the header is going to Jet Hott anyways, so a few more removals are in my future.

For running in....A handful of 10 minute hops around town. Right? Up to temp, the full cool down. Then keep the RPM's down (say 45 mph max) for what, 500-1000 miles? Or a full 2k? Change the oil often. Gonna do my 10 minute hops on whats in there, then change before the first slightly longer run.

Any other words of advice for the break in?

I promise a few photos tomorrow or the next day.

Be safe all. Friends in the Northeast....stay safe from this big ol storm coming your way.

[ace.cafe]

It lives!

Ok, so the whole "gonna get it together this weekend as an early christmas present to myself" thing kinda went out the window. But, put it all very carefully together (even learned how to check the gap on the piston rings). Put some MMO into the piston. Lots of kicking to try and move some oil into the brand new oil filter. LOTS of kicking.

But hey hey, it started up second kick!

And promptly filled my garage with smoke.  Exhaust leak at the head and the usual "been sitting for several months" crap. Had to run it for a minute or 2 several times to get the oil up to the rockers (left the covers off so I could verify when it got there). Didn't want to let it get super hot, just wanted to hear it run.

So as I said before, stock Mikcarb, stock slide, 127.5 main (richest needle setting), 25 pilot. Jedi Council....does this seem a good place to start for running in in Phoenix (1200 ish feet)?

Gonna do something about the exhaust leak at the head. I think I might try beer can shims instead of silicone sealant. I read somewhere that Ace and others do this to good effect. And immediate riding is nice, rather than waiting overnight. Plus, when money is available, the header is going to Jet Hott anyways, so a few more removals are in my future.

For running in....A handful of 10 minute hops around town. Right? Up to temp, the full cool down. Then keep the RPM's down (say 45 mph max) for what, 500-1000 miles? Or a full 2k? Change the oil often. Gonna do my 10 minute hops on whats in there, then change before the first slightly longer run.

Any other words of advice for the break in?

I promise a few photos tomorrow or the next day.

Be safe all. Friends in the Northeast....stay safe from this big ol storm coming your way.

The earliest break-in miles are the most critical. Get the bike out on the road, and do some moderate accelerations and decelerations, allowing the engine to do the slowing on deceleration by closing the throttle and letting the bike slow down. Then accelerate moderately some more, and let the engine brake the bike to slow. Do this a lot. You can do it in various gears. Don't let the bike sit at only one speed, and generally be accelerating or decelerating to some degree as much as you can
It's going to get hot. Don't cook it. Keep the rides short to avoid overheating for the first 100 miles at least. As you get more miles, you can increase the riding times and the rpms gradually.
By 500 miles, you should be mostly broken-in, but it will still need to get to 1000 miles before it's all done.

And remember, those things we did to help reduce overheating are just a "help". They are not a total overheating preventative. It can still overheat, and so it is in your hands to not do that.
If you are out in the hot Arizona sun at 110 degrees, you MUST lay off the throttle and go slower than traffic. The fins simply cannot cool the bike in those temps except in very light loads. And that means going slow. This is an air-cooled bike, and if the air is not cool, then it doesn't cool the bike well.

[BigDon]

Just went thru this thread top to bottom......I wanted to say congrats on the fire up!

[noisymilk]

Hey Big Don! Thanks a lot....I'm pretty pleased as well.

And yes, Ace, .....I live in the stupid desert and need to stop being stupid and trying to toast this bike in the heat. 

So, as promised, a few photos of a very dirty bike with a very clean barrel and head:



(Yup. gave up on the beer can thing and went with the silicon thing. No firing up til tomorrow now.)



And the new oil filter all plumbed in and working very well:



(Never mind that hole up above from the old oil cooler I had mounted there.)

The thing that is helping keep my bike from puking its oil filled guts all over my back wheel/license plate everytime I go 10 feet:


Shiny new-to-me muffler that doesn't rattle with broken baffles like my old one did. Note that the securing arm didn't reach the old bracket on the frame....it's held in place by a pipe clamp for now. I might fab up a little extension bracket of some sort....but between that and the fabulous OReilly exhaust clamp, I am somewhat enjoying the ratty look....


Still considering doing something different with the turn signal situation, something mounted maybe on the back of the back rest here:


With something like these that I pointed to earlier in my thread:


Not sure....still debating. I like the idea that the wiring could be moved out from where the tire is under there, to just under the seat.

Ok. So on to breaking in. Thanks Ace, for the primer on how to do this and not screw it up (again). 

And of course, the usual whinging around about what to do next to get this ready for some travel. Rear shocks are a must. Am thinking soft bags at this point. Mefo Explorer tires still (when the trip is imminent...gonna stick with my really nice AM26's for now). Possibly the Radon speedo, possibly front progressive springs.

More importantly is to just plan the trip and GO.

Thanks all. Talk to you soon.

[mattsz]

Hey Milk-

Hunkered down in the storm and just finished reading your ride report of your scooter ride to Canada - what a treat!  Looking forward to seeing this thread progress further...

  (stealing emoticons from ADV!)

[noisymilk]

Br Mattsz,

Thanks for the kind words. That trip was a wonderful experience for me and Dean. He had never ridden before, and hasn't ridden since. I actually sold the green scoot and bought his. You might see it in the background of my pics here. I am planning future low cc trips as well.

Run what you brung.

[Scottie J]

What a great project!  This thread gives me inspiration on getting my Indian finished.   

[noisymilk]

Well, the breaking in is going well. Lots of local runs (20 or less miles), never above 3rd gear, never revving hard, lots of engine braking. I figure I am approaching 150 miles right now (no speedo). So I'll do this a bit more, change the oil, and then start looking at some longer running.

The engine feels nice and strong. Planted. Exhaust note is nice. I'm getting a slight hesitation right off idle on the throttle...I'm assuming it's because I am running very rich on the needle (highest setting), and I can correct it once I feel broken in and start looking at good jetting. Obviously, a different carb is in my future....

No oil from the head/barrel. No oil from the barrel/case. Yay! Slight weeping from the exhaust rocker feed. That I think I can sort. But slight weeping from here:


I flared the pipe in there. The tubing I used is 1/4" ID. It's the smallest I could get to fit on the outlet of the oil filter. Anyone have any ideas?

Bought myself a set of these:


They are tank panniers. 14 litre total. I think they will make a nice place to carry tools and stuff. Am pretty certain to go with soft rear panniers as well. Hoping to get a few days off to make a quick run down to Rocky Point for a day or 2 of camping, and see how she is behaving in general.

Alrighty. Thanks all. Be safe.

[noisymilk]

Oh! And Brother Mattsz, hurdy gurdy's are cool. One of the most amazing things I ever saw was a hurdy gurdy solo on the Page/Plant No Quarter tour back in the 90's. Blew my mind the tones that guy could get out of that instrument.

Be safe.

[1 Thump]

Here is the Radon Installation guide from an old post:

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,8551.0/all.html

[Ice]

Milk

[mattsz]

Oh! And Brother Mattsz, hurdy gurdy's are cool. One of the most amazing things I ever saw was a hurdy gurdy solo on the Page/Plant No Quarter tour back in the 90's. Blew my mind the tones that guy could get out of that instrument.

Quick detour…

Milk- that was Nigel Eaton.  Just before he played on that tour, my wife and I were bouncing around the UK playing folk music.  I was interested in hurdy-gurdies, and she hosted a Maine Public Radio weekly folk music show.  We tracked Nigel down and he agreed to meet us for an interview.  He is a really nice guy; we had a fine chat, and got a great hurdy-gurdy radio show out of it.  Before we drove off, he said, "what I really want to do is play rock'n'roll hurdy-gurdy!"  As you witnessed, he pulled it off in fine fashion.  He still plays, but now he makes built-in furniture for a living.

Now back to our regularly scheduled broadcast...

[AgentX]

Hey, how do the tank panniers fit on the Bullet?  Been wanting a set of the Wolfmans myself...

[noisymilk]

Hello there Br AgentX!
Um....here's how they look.






(its a little close under here, but not touching anything)


I like them a lot. My knees just touch them while sitting on the seat. I'm a little concerned about the front webbing, and hard corners wearing through. Obviously I need to clean up the straps a bit. But they sit VERY securely right there. I'll be interested to see how they do. I'm planning on them being my tools and quick access things while traveling (hat, camera, wallet, water, that sort of thing).

Also picked up one of these:


Gotta figure out where to hang it. I'm thinking most likely here:


But of course, this leads me to wanting to rewire the bike sooner than later. Sigh. 

Breaking in is going nicely. Still the slight hesitation off idle, which I still think is the very rich needle clip setting. I'm gonna do a few more 20-30 ish mile rides, change the oil, then start looking at some longer rides. Never been in 4th gear yet, all just around town easy accelerating engine braking type stuff. Feels REAL strong.

Hey Br Ice! I'm gonna be up Seattle way the last weekend of April. I'm gonna carry up the hard panniers and the carb I've been so remiss is getting to you, if you are gonna be around. Let me know, man.

Br 1Thump: yup...thats the speedo I'm going to put on the bike.

Been thinking about changing my headlight and nacelle situation. Either the trials, or the one that can retain all stock stuff. And some sort of brighter aftermarket option. It's pricy though. I mostly want to find a way to route the cables NOT through the nacelle. Because the rubber that protects them passing through fails, and then the cables fail. Anyone thought of this with the stock setup? Anyone successfully done it?

Ok, be safe all. Talk to you soon.

[AgentX]

Thanks for the pics!  Not sure if I like the way that webbing fore and aft runs, though...

If you're looking for a brighter bulb option, the HID kit from DDM tuning was cheap (like $25 IIRC) and easy to install.  However, I went with the single-intensity bulb, and the dual Hi/Lo bulb is supposedly too long to fit in the stock nacelle.  The single intensity bulb is much brighter and better than the 35/35 H4 halogen I had, even when it was set on high beam, so it's no big deal for me. 

However, when back in the lands of vehicle codes and road courtesy, I think a hi/lo option is in order, since having an HID set at a median hi/lo position probably isn't the best thing for getting a vehicle approved to drive on the road.  Since I'm using a separate headlight bucket, I'm sure I can rig up an HID setup to fit, but might just stick with a 65/35 H4 bulb for simplicity's sake and to avoid further scrutiny from Department of Transport types who frown on "modifications"  (however beneficial the mods may be...)

It's pretty obvious an HID lamp is not stock on my 1977 bike.

[noisymilk]

AgentX

Yeah, I'm gonna run it with the straps for a bit and see. If it sucks, I might try and put some Magnets in there instead. The rubber backing on the bags makes them sit real firmly in place. I might try and see if there are other places to strap it to as well....this was just a throw it on kind of placement to see how they looked. Basic placement is really nice.

And yeah, I've looked long and hard at HID. The thing is, I am fine with the casquette, Radon speedo, and adding some sort of external LED lights on a switch. I'm running a 35/55 Halogen (I believe) and have no issues with it. Am intending on going straight DC with a Sparxx rotor/stator upgrade in the future as well. The part I am not liking right now is the control cables passing through the casquette. I'm wondering if there is something to be done about that, short of buying this:


or this:


The first is the less expensive of the 2, but it's like 350 bucks. I'm not THAT upset with the cable routing. That kind of money is my new rear shocks.

Anyways. I'm not planning on spending any serious money for a few months. Gotta work a bit first. Feels like I'm down to the Sparxx/rewire, doing something about turn signals and brake/running lites, additional forward LED floods of some sort. Mostly electrical stuff. I'm patiently waiting to see about Ace's and Chumma's floating bush option on the crank. And final sorting of the luggage situation. Nice Mefo Explorers just before the trip, and then ride. If I don't do the crank, we're talking less than 1k to go.

Alrighty. Be safe all.

[AgentX]

You could order either the Thunderbird top and bottom crowns, or the single-gauge top crown (shown in your second linked pic) from India, fairly cheaply.  (ebay or direct from royalenfieldzone or bulletwalas or something).  Emgo and other headlight ears are cheap from dime city cycles and the like.

You're not getting any support or backing from Hitchcock with these, of course.

[noisymilk]

Br AgentX

Not a bad idea at all. I might look into that later on. For now, I'm gonna ride for a while after getting my horn mounted (kluge style, not the full re-wire).

But before the big trip north, I think the one that maintains all the original parts (key and ammeter) but lets me do an aftermarket headlight is the way I want to go. All subject to change as I waffle about down here.

Thanks for the heads up.

[noisymilk]

Hey! My Enfield finally has a horn!!!!

So since I purchased this bike, it has never had a horn. I suspect it fell off like everyone elses did because of bad brackets or whatever. I went and got myself one of the Screaming Banshee horns, and it took about 30 minutes to install it today.


I ended up turning it sideways to the way I had been thinking a few posts back, because it seemed a very solid mounting position:


And a look at the inside:


Drilled a hole, and voila, mounted. Wiring was relatively easy:


The relay that came with the horn is mounted where the old starter relay used to be. I even reused the same bolt on top.

I took the main positive power line (post circuit breaker) and Y'd it into the line that goes to the the key switch, and into the backside of the relay. Other side of relay exits the box and goes to positive of the horn assembly. I took the old starter wires (blue/white and black I believe) and repurposed them for the relay release. Then took the old horn wires (purple and red/white) that had been hanging down my front tube to where the old horn used to be, and pulled them up into the nacelle. Hooked purple to blue/white, and red/white to black. Worked like a charm first time. Didn't have to run new wires. Now, I hate the klugey-ness of it, but my connections are solid at least. It will get sexy when time allows.

Tests in the driveway gave a pretty solid low note, but not so solid high note. I'm hoping it was voltage sag, and that when I go out for a test run here, both notes will sound solidly.

I'm pretty please.

Be safe all.

[noisymilk]

I can verify now, it was merely some voltage sag from the bike not being run for about a week while I was working. Once out on the road, 2 solid tones from the horn. It is very loud, although not as loud as I would like. It's a good piercing tone, and certainly much better than the stock buzzer. It's approaching good small car horn levels while moving. I was hoping for something like a foghorn, though.

Maybe a second one is in order?? 

For the price, $50 plus shipping, its a great deal. There is an upgraded system thats designed to let you leave the old horn on for friendly toots, then 1/4 of a second later engages a pulsing banshee thing. I didn't do that. So, I press the button and the loud constant horn goes. They are also marketing one that is smaller, for cars. I wonder if it is louder or what....would be curious to do a side by side. Probably save my money for other things though. Like a new crank bearing. And a radon speedo. And bar risers. And a nice proper rewire.

 

Be safe all. Go ride more.

[Ice]

Hey Br Ice! I'm gonna be up Seattle way the last weekend of April. I'm gonna carry up the hard panniers and the carb I've been so remiss is getting to you, if you are gonna be around. Let me know, man.

Brother just name the time and place and I will be there with ammo boxes in hand.

[Arizoni]

IMO, horns are overrated.
With all the people here in Arizona driving around with their windows rolled up, their radios blaring and their texting fingers busily tapping out War & Peace on their hand held communicators the beep of a horn doesn't stand a chance of being heard.

Now, in India where the horn replaces the turn signal and the chance of anyone listening to a individual motorcycle's horn is slim to none maybe a louder horn makes sense but here it's just another electrical thing to cause problems.

[GreenMachine]

+1 ..didn't hear alot of air horns in the streets  of Delhi...Everybody did used their horns to communicate their intent..I love my air horn on my yamaha...GM

[barenekd]

When I was working in the old BSA shop, I used to install quite a few of those air horns. They will get the drivers attention as they're trying to find the semi that's about to run them down. FUN! They're effective!
Bare

[noisymilk]

Br Arizoni,

I agree, most of the drivers here in the hot state don't really listen too well. However, I figured any horn was better than none. And since I had funds, I figured a little louder was better than the little door buzzer that comes stock. I'll be honest, I drive all over the country in my work life, and AZ drivers are by far the worst. Even worse than LA, and some of those folks are crazy.

Br Ice, I will get with you when the arrival time gets closer. Looking forward to a beer and a meal. Mrs Milk is going on this trip as well. You might also meet one of my best friends from when I was a kid and his wife, depending on how things work out. Its a good part of the impetus for this trip, visiting them.

My electrics box looks so empty. I clearly need to rewire the bike and move things inside there. I figure the turn signal flasher, and power distribution system of some sort, and perhaps the new power regulator mounted on the back of the box, rather than on the rear fender. It still needs air flow, obviously. I remember reading somewhere that someone moved the coil inside the electrics box. Anyone remember who, and if they had heat problems of any sort?

Just wanting to clean up the electrical.

Anyways, be safe all. I gotta go be a dad for a while.

[baird4444]

there is room if you do away with the starter relay, you don't need it
any way. I don't think heat will be a problem, but I'd at least do away
with the Lucas coil for one that will not have such a failure rate. Your
reg-rec is fine under the seat, out of sight, out of mind....
           - Mike

[ROVERMAN]

When my stock horn started dangling because the bracket fractured,i put a Range Rover horn on it (because i could). This leaves me feeling all prestigious and s%$t.
  .
Robert & REnfield.
P.S. The build is looking GOOD Milk.

[AgentX]

power distribution system of some sort

http://www.cloudelectric.com/category-s/12888.htm
and
http://www.cloudelectric.com/category-s/12620.htm

Place has friggin' everything at good prices.  The website's kind of hellish to navigate, though.

I ordered the other day and they got back to me very quickly about an item that wasn't in stock...just some heat shrink.  So I think the personal service has been good so far.

I'm trying the bus bars with covers on my bike; they're marine-grade products.  Have a positive in red and a ground in black, all to be assembled in a tray that fits under my seat/tail.  I like the screw-down eyelet attachments and don't really need all the fuses that come in the fuse block unit with push-on blade connectors.

The 8-point under "standoff connectors" looks nice and compact too.

[noisymilk]

there is room if you do away with the starter relay, you don't need it
any way. I don't think heat will be a problem, but I'd at least do away
with the Lucas coil for one that will not have such a failure rate. Your
reg-rec is fine under the seat, out of sight, out of mind....
           - Mike

Br Baird! You're the one who did that. I think it's a great idea. And the stock reg/rec will eventually be replaced with a Sparx unit along with the alternator. So cool.

[noisymilk]

When my stock horn started dangling because the bracket fractured,i put a Range Rover horn on it (because i could). This leaves me feeling all prestigious and s%$t.
  .
Robert & REnfield.
P.S. The build is looking GOOD Milk.

Br Roverman. Thanks so much. Its a slow going process. Money and time to work on it rarely align.

Range Rover horn!? Ha! Bet that turns some heads.

[noisymilk]

http://www.cloudelectric.com/category-s/12888.htm
and
http://www.cloudelectric.com/category-s/12620.htm

Place has friggin' everything at good prices.  The website's kind of hellish to navigate, though.

I ordered the other day and they got back to me very quickly about an item that wasn't in stock...just some heat shrink.  So I think the personal service has been good so far.

I'm trying the bus bars with covers on my bike; they're marine-grade products.  Have a positive in red and a ground in black, all to be assembled in a tray that fits under my seat/tail.  I like the screw-down eyelet attachments and don't really need all the fuses that come in the fuse block unit with push-on blade connectors.

The 8-point under "standoff connectors" looks nice and compact too.

Dude! Those all look like really good options. I wanted to put a Positive and Negative bus in the nacelle, and those look like a good way to accomodate that. I'm a fan of star grounding (it's how we do the big audio systems I work on). And I try to avoid multiple chassis grounds if I can. Maybe thats a bad idea, but it's what I do anyways.

[noisymilk]

Well, as always, I got distracted and diverted for a while.

However, I did finally get a solution to attaching the tank panniers. Got some little 1" flat hooks from a local trucking strap supply house. 2 of them on the front hook perfectly around the squared off section of the down tube. The backs are still strapped as previous.

I'll get a run around shake down ride in and see how they stay put (or not).

Um....hey. Ace's floating bush project is moving forward. I'm on the short list!!! Yay!!! I'm saving my pennies to send away my crank later this fall. That should give me the freedom to reduce the spacers under my barrel, and aim for slightly higher compression. Or at least, feel safe about flogging the bike on the road a bit more.

Saw Br Ice in Seattle a few weeks ago. Awesome meal and chatting. THAT Dave (my good friend) might be joining the motorcycling world. Not the Enfield world (total noob), but perhaps a nice little bike to travel around with me.

Ok...no major updates. Just that.

Be safe all.

[noisymilk]

Hello there all!

Just a quick update. It's starting to get hot down here in the desert. I had the enfield out for a hop on the highway heading home from some work Sunday at around 1 pm.

The old leg thermometer tells me that the bike is using and shedding heat better than previously. Nowhere near the burn that used to come off the engine. So, slightly improved head, better barrel, and some coatings on head chamber and exhaust pathways seem to be having some good results. At least from the leg thermometer (is that like the butt dyno?).

Looking forward to some good riding coming up. Take care all. Get out and ride....it's nice everywhere else now right?

Be safe.

[ace.cafe]

Sounds like an improvement!

[Scottie J]

Awesome!  Great to hear your bike is producing less heat.

Scottie