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Author Topic: Run-in question for 5 speeds  (Read 1435 times)

ridgerunner

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Run-in question for 5 speeds
« on: April 11, 2008, 12:19:40 AM »
1st question:
I'm trying very hard to follow the run-in instructions but something doesn't make much sense so I have a question. The manual says I shouldn't run more than 1/4 throttle, no more than 35 mph, and whatever I do I must not "lug" the motor. My question is this: If the purpose of the run-in is to run at relatively low rpm to wear in the parts without overheating, why the 35 mph limit? When I run 35 mph I'm running 4th gear at low rpm. At the same rpm in 5th I would be doing about 50 mph. So, why the speed limit if it would be the same rpm?

2nd question:
The manual also suggests re-torqueing the head at 500km. Is that intended for the iron classic only or the aluminum also? I know in my former Harley days, I needed to re-torque the heads on the old ironheads and Shovelheads but it was a big no-no for the aluminum Evo motors.
08 Bullet ES (AVL)
The Enfield saves on gas, riding the Enfield saves on Prozac. ;)

Vince

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Re: Run-in question for 5 speeds
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2008, 12:44:30 AM »
     Due to the gear ratio the engine will work harder in a higher gear at the same RPM. It will also require more throttle. I have never seen ANYONE successfully out guess the manufacturer's recommendations on break in. These bikes are particularly sensitive to proper break in. It sounds like you have the AVL motor. Even with this I recommend the classic engine procedure. For the first 300 miles use !st gear to 9mph, 2nd to 15mph, 3rd to 18mph, 4th to 28mph, and 5th to 36 mph. 300 to 600 miles use 1st to 12mph, 2nd to 18mph, 3rd to 21mph, 4th to 33mph, and 5th to 42 mph. Don't lug it. Vary the throttle. City driving is ideal. I know it is tedious. The benefit is a sweet running reliable bike. I always re-torque the head on the first service.

Spitting Bull

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Re: Run-in question for 5 speeds
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2008, 08:51:11 AM »
I agree with Vince.  For various reasons, I had limited time to spend on riding my bike when I first got it so for the first 1,000 miles or so, it was mostly ridden on rides lasting about 45 minutes, around town, never going very far from home.  Speed limits helped keep the speed down, and having to change up and down the gearbox regularly meant that the engine had to pull and rev, but only for short periods until the next gearchange was needed.  I played it by the book and kept well away from any extended period of running at high speed, even when the permitted high speed was relatively low.  Running-in isn't only about gradually increasing speed.  It's also about how you make the engine work.

Tom
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Thumper

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Re: Run-in question for 5 speeds
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2008, 11:43:08 AM »
1st question:
I'm trying very hard to follow the run-in instructions but something doesn't make much sense so I have a question. The manual says I shouldn't run more than 1/4 throttle, no more than 35 mph, and whatever I do I must not "lug" the motor. My question is this: If the purpose of the run-in is to run at relatively low rpm to wear in the parts without overheating, why the 35 mph limit? When I run 35 mph I'm running 4th gear at low rpm. At the same rpm in 5th I would be doing about 50 mph. So, why the speed limit if it would be the same rpm?

2nd question:
The manual also suggests re-torqueing the head at 500km. Is that intended for the iron classic only or the aluminum also? I know in my former Harley days, I needed to re-torque the heads on the old ironheads and Shovelheads but it was a big no-no for the aluminum Evo motors.

Rigderunner,
Your owner's manual gives run-in procedures specific to the AVL engine, and you're doing the right thing to pay it careful attention.

In the absence of a tach you have two guidelines: road speed as indicated by the speedometer and engine speed as gauged by the gear and by the ear.

If you feel that 35mph in 4th gear is too low for break-in (especially with the caveat about lugging the engine), then run at 35mph mostly in third gear. That is precisely what I did - and I do think that 35 in 4th is lugging the engine for the purpose of break-in. Mine has 3600 miles and I don't shift into 4th until 40mph (or just under)  - and that is in no-way over-revving the engine. You're supposed to vary the throttle, so run it mostly in third with just occasional sprints in 4th - if you feel like you just have to upshift.

I don't have my owner's manual here at work, but if I recall you only do this for 200 miles or so.

The difference between the AVL and Classic can be highlighted by this example: when I went on a New Year's day ride with a Classic owner, his bike was in 5th while mine was still in 4th for better part of the ride. Had I shifted into 5th it would have been lugging the engine.

The torque specs are definitely for your AVL and definitely need attention. Is it 500kms or 500 miles? Either way, I believe the torque spec is 24 ft/lbs - which should NOT be exceeded. If you're interested, you can see my maintenance notes in the signature, from my own experience.

Matt
« Last Edit: April 11, 2008, 09:12:11 PM by Thumper »

Kevin Mahoney

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Re: Run-in question for 5 speeds
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2008, 04:01:30 PM »
the advice that Matt gave you is very good. It is more important to re-torque the head on an iron-barrel classic as the AVL engine uses a more modern gasket. Having said that if it were mine I would re-torque it. 500km - 500 miles more or less the same thing is reality (not in distance but for practical purposes it doesn't really matter, nothing terrible will happen if you use one over the other.. Do your first service at 500 miles and all will be well,

ridgerunner

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Re: Run-in question for 5 speeds
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2008, 10:52:50 PM »
Wow, thanks for the maintenance notes, they're a big help!
08 Bullet ES (AVL)
The Enfield saves on gas, riding the Enfield saves on Prozac. ;)