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Author Topic: fuel flow?  (Read 2529 times)

Kevin Mahoney

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Re: fuel flow?
« Reply #15 on: May 09, 2008, 02:55:32 PM »
turn the carb upside down, let the float rest on the needle so that it's weight is on it. I would then measure 25mm from the gasket surface to the top of the float. If it needs adjusting bend the tang being careful not to put the strain of bending on the needle. In other words raise it slightly off the needle when bending. If you set the float at a lesser height the bowl will fill more and it will have a tendency to run rich.
Now.......I am suspecting that your problem may not be fuel related at all. What year is your bike and please describe the symptoms in more detail. I will do my best to get back to you ASAP, but I commute back to PHX from MSP tonight and it may not be until sometime tomorrow

JordanMix

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Re: fuel flow?
« Reply #16 on: May 09, 2008, 03:29:31 PM »
thank you for the reply.

I have a 1999 (early, made in May) 500 Bullet.

I have been trying to dial my carb in so i have the ideal setting. I was running a bit to rich at low speed/idle so i thought i would try to 27.5 jet rather than the 30 i had installed. I put this in and it ran awful. The bike would spit, and cough when starting up then when i would try to ride it the bike would hesitate and jerk... i could tell it was running way to lean. I went back to my garage and put the 30 back in thinking i would just deal with the richness problem. I went to go out for a ride and the sale problem persisted that i had with the 27.5. I could get the bike to idle somewhat ok (not as good as before) but as soon as i would put it in gear and hit the throttle the bike would hesitate, jerk, go a little then want to stall. My first thoughts were a clogged jet passage so i blew everything out with air and then carb cleaner several time, removed and inspected all jets as well as passages. I then thought it may be related to fuel flow. I drained and removed the tank and found some rust/debris in the upper petcock filter i removed and cleaned the filter as well as completely disassembled the petcock. I tested before the cleaning and after with little improvement, i get anywhere from 200-220 ML in 1 minuet from the fuel line from the carb as well as when tested flowing through the carb with the bottom hex nut of the float chamber removed.

Before i switched out the pilot jet i had a 30 in and it ran well. Pick up was strong from a stop, no hessitation and idled well, it was just a little rich. so whatever my problem is it happened during the time when i removed the carb and put in the 27.5 becuase after i switched that out and put the 30 back it i still have the same problems as i did with the 27.5,

My thoughts are that i may have unknowingly bummed or moved the float and this is the cause of my problems.

I have a battery that is fully charged and is less than a month old. I cleaned my points, readjusted my gap and checked/re-set static timing.

After trying several float heights last night with no progress i lowered the chambers (pushed down on them with the carb in hand upside down) to about 24MM. i put it back on my bike and i cant even get it to kick over now. I have spark and a good amount of battery power.

when you say "if you set the float at a lesser height the bowl will fill more and it will have a tendency to run rich" . do you mean lesser as the float will sit closer to the bottom of the float bowl or closer to the top of the carb/needle assembly?

I have checked several times that i have the correct pilot jet in, i know those numbers are small but i made sure i didnt make a simple error and end up with a 10 in their or something.

Thank you for the help.

Kevin Mahoney

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Re: fuel flow?
« Reply #17 on: May 09, 2008, 04:12:54 PM »
I have to admit that given the circumstances it would certainly lead you look at the carburetor. I had this happen once when I changed a main jet. Turns out that when I screwed it back in the brass piece that the needle goes in and out of was out of place. took me a while to find it.

I meant that if you have the carb upside down and are setting the float and you set it lower than 25mm it will tend to run rich because when the carb is in the proper position upright the flow of petrol will be cut off at a higher level. You might want to check and make sure that the float is not hanging up on something when you put the bowl back on. Also if that carb had a plastic spacer between the carb body and the float bowl make sure that it isn't missing. (You will have an extra part lying around and it is white). If it was not there in the first place don't obsess. Some had them some didn't, depended upon the depth of the bowl.

Make sure you put a good in line filter in your petrol line. 1999 tanks were not lined with a rust and corrosion preventative and were prone to rusting.

Check the rubber intake manifold, They are a wear item and were really prone to a short life on 1999 models. The new ones wear out, but they are made of much better rubber. Sometimes it is hard to see the cracks in them. Often times they are under the clamps and not obvious.

About 1999's
Prone to regulator problems. In 2000 they put Motorola components in the regulators and that was the end of the problem. Alternator is marginal but OK. Prone to electrical issues that are caused by the old style Bullet connectors, one you go through them it is fine. The washer underneath the bolt that holds the distributor cam is a bit small and sometimes it causes the bolt to prevent the advance mechanism from turning the points cam. Easy to spot, easy to cure. Sometime the advance weight hit the underside of the condenser which is also easy to see. Occasionally hard to seal the oil lines going to the head. The answer is to put an extra washer between the head and the underside of the oil line. some of the Banjo bolts were just a wee bit too long.
Will only charge in the second "on"position of the key. Sometimes the blue wire leading from the ignition switch gets disconnected because when you put the connector together the lead pushed back and is not making contact. A bit more difficult to see. If they blow fuses take the left and right handle bar switches off and make sure that the solder holding the wires to the switch is not grounding on the handlebars (happened a lot), a bit of electrical tape cures this. Make sure the wiring harness leading to the taillight is tucked up to the tabs under the fender. Clean the ground behind the taillight once in a while. If you have shifting problems, first check the chain adjustment and then have a buddy hold the bike up while you slide under it with a flash light and see if the linkage is fouling the frame, If so grind the "banana" shaped arm so that it doesn't.
The key is to have the center stand up while you do this and look VERY carefully.
The third thing is to adjust the clutch as "tight as you dare".  there is more about shifting but that will keep anyone busy for a while.

JordanMix

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Re: fuel flow?
« Reply #18 on: May 09, 2008, 04:50:08 PM »
Kevin.

Thanks for the reply. hopefully i can sort it out this weekend and get back on the road. i fairly certain it is my float height, everything else seems to be eliminated. I will reset it tonight and hopefully the monsoon we are having now has ended so i can get a road test in.

JordanMix

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Re: fuel flow?
« Reply #19 on: May 12, 2008, 04:32:33 PM »
took care of it this weekend.... i had the float set to low. I guess i really didn't understand the technique for measuring the float height. I reset it properly this weekend and everything seems good. i am still getting black plugs at low speeds but with a 27.5 pilot and clip in the second from lowest position i am afraid to go any leaner. I think i am just going to leave it at that.