Clutch hub/basket play?

[AgentX]

Hi everyone:

After getting the lockring seated to couple the clutch hub and basket, I noticed there was a slight bit of play in the junction.  Figured it was probably normal and necessary. 

Mounted the assembly along with the primary chain and crank sprocket, and could still feel and see a mm or two of wiggle if you tugged at the edge of the clutch basket.

Now I have the clutch assembled, and when I pull the lever, I can see the whole basket moving slightly to the outboard as the plates disengage.  Is this normal?  Highly detrimental?  Possible causes and fixes if so?

Only thing I could think of is shimming under the lockring somehow.

Advice appreciated as always.

MD

[Blltrdr]

Yes there is some movement there. I would think what you are seeing is normal.

[cyrusb]

Same as mine, been like that from day one.

[AgentX]

Thanks, fellas.

Can't be too careful when you're a ham-fisted know-nothing...   

[Lwt Big Cheese]

Mine has play. But the everything on mine has play!

[Kevin Mahoney]

What kind of bike?

[AgentX]

It's a 1977 (350, obviously) with a 5-spd transmission and what the parts dept told me was a 500cc clutch.  (4-plate)

Both near brand-new.

[Blltrdr]

It's a 1977 (350, obviously) with a 5-spd transmission and what the parts dept told me was a 500cc clutch.  (4-plate)

Both near brand-new.

In the US market the 5spd clutch pack has five heavily segmented thinner friction plates and the 4spd has four (1-24 segments per side and 3-w/4 segments per side) thicker friction plates. Both sets fit in the same clutch basket. The upgrade would be to run the 5spd clutch pack with the extra plate. I would suspect a 4spd clutch pack would work fine for your 350 but if not then I would try upgrading to the 5spd clutch pack.

[barenekd]

As far as the slop when the clutch is disengaged, that is normal. If you shimmed it up to get rid of the slop, then you couldn't disengage your clutch. It's all part of the process.
Bare

[AgentX]

As far as the slop when the clutch is disengaged, that is normal. If you shimmed it up to get rid of the slop, then you couldn't disengage your clutch. It's all part of the process.
Bare

I don't get it.  What does play between the hub and basket (not the slop in the clutch plates when it's disengaged) have to do with the operation of the clutch?

[The Garbone]

My impression is the bottom of the basket is a functioning part of the friction assembly and needs to move to engage and disengage.   

[barenekd]

The basket has to be a bit loose on the hub bearing so the hub can spin when the basket isn't. If you shim it up too tight, you will have a dragging clutch.
Bare

[AgentX]

Right on, thanks!

[AgentX]

So the clutch is now working fine, but when I watch it as I kick it over, or when I first started the engine before I had the primary cover on, I can see the basket wobbling a little.

Assuming that's normal, but could use a tad more reassurance from the experienced people...thanks in advance and sorry to be a pest.  Hope my questions are creating decent searchable material for future newbs!

[Blltrdr]

So looking at my spare clutch hub and basket I notice 1/8"< of in/out play between the two and the retaining ring but no play up and down. If you see a slight wobble you should check for up and down movement. If there is movement your bearings on your basket are probably shot.