Clutch hub/basket play?

[AgentX]

Thanks, Bllt.

In potentially related news, this clutch has always seemed to prefer being adjusted with the cable having no slack.  Was this way with both the previous 4spd and the current 5spd.  If I leave it too loose, it likes to drag and die at idle.  (seemingly more once the bike's warmed up than when it's cold...)

Is this detrimental?  I don't wanna shear off the cable ends every 500 miles or anything.  Indicative of something else wrong in there?

[Blltrdr]

I would like to know how you are adjusting your clutch operating assembly. You should have your cable adjusters slacked off, then screw in the clutch operating assy. adjuster stud till you just feel a slight resistance and then back off about 1/8-1/4 turn then lock down nut. Adjust cable at gear box front cover housing and then fine adjust on handlebar if you have an adjuster there. Make sure your cable is well lubed and is routed correctly so it doesn't bind. I would say the way it is working now it might not last long. If none of this works you may have to take your clutch apart and make sure all parts are correct. I think you mentioned in a post that you had to grind your clutch rods down a bit. I have worked on both 4 & 5 spd clutch assy.'s and never had to grind or mod a thing.

[AgentX]

I would like to know how you are adjusting your clutch operating assembly. You should have your cable adjusters slacked off, then screw in the clutch operating assy. adjuster stud till you just feel a slight resistance and then back off about 1/8-1/4 turn then lock down nut. Adjust cable at gear box front cover housing and then fine adjust on handlebar if you have an adjuster there. Make sure your cable is well lubed and is routed correctly so it doesn't bind. I would say the way it is working now it might not last long. If none of this works you may have to take your clutch apart and make sure all parts are correct. I think you mentioned in a post that you had to grind your clutch rods down a bit. I have worked on both 4 & 5 spd clutch assy.'s and never had to grind or mod a thing.

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EDIT:  Disregard my whining for now...I think my "clutch drag" is actually some other issue, and I can get the clutch properly adjusted.

Man, there's a lot to learn.
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That's how I'm adjusting it.

Was the same on 2 separate transmissions (same basket/plates, different center), irrespective of clutch rod.

The mechanic at the shop took two clutch rods, seemingly factory-made, right out of the transmission on another bike in the shop.  They were shorter than the other rods which the parts department had in stock, and they put the clutch pad in the proper position when used with my 5-spd.  He told me there were four models of the 5-spd transmission, and this one (the latest, I think he said) used different rods.  (side note:  if that is not true, it would not be the first time someone has slung a bunch of BS at me regarding Enfields over here...but in this case it seemed demonstrably true.  Having no ability to verify this on my own, I remain agnostic on the issue.)

With the longer rods, the clutch pad stood too far out from the basket, holding the outer cover in a position far past where it could engage the posts on the clutch hub.  (ie, floating in the air, impossible to reassemble the clutch.)

Strange, I know, but true.  And I can't think of any potential adjustment which could have remedied it; as it stands now, even with the two shorter clutch rods, the adjuster in the throw-out arm is backed nearly as far out as it can go while still allowing the outer cover plate to bolt back on.  It's just a hollow tube through the transmission... nothing else I can see could make these longer rods fit.

But since it was the same with the other transmission, I tend to think the cause lies somewhere else.  And I'll give it another full adjustment, just in case.