Excessive ForceBear in mind at all times that force applied to either crankpin will be transmitted as a bending moment to the assembly of the flywheels and journal pin, thus tending to destroy crankshaft alignment. Thus, no force should be applied to the timing-side crankpin to force the drive-side pin into the bearings, for example. Nor should force be applied in the second stage to the timing-side case to force it over the timing-side bearing. In either case (no pun intended!), force should be applied only to the flywheel of the side concerned. Or as a pulling force from the outside of the case, pulling the shaft through the bearing.
Sounds like you have a problem with your crank. The con rod should be centered on the case split when you lean the con rod against the case.''Also, there should be no binding of any sort when rotating the crank by hand with the barrel and head off. It should be as smooth as silk.I think you need to dismantle the bottom end and re-do it properly.DO NOT bang on that thing with a chisel, PLEASE.
I am not following your mechanics reasoning at all. Can you ask him to be more clear. When the piston is in the barrel you can't tell left right or center. It sounds like a bit of shade tree vodoo to me.
You need to ascertain that the two crank ends and flywheels are square.For an initial check without removing the crankshaft from the case, check the crankshaft ends for wobbles out at the ends of the shaft. They should be turning very true, less than .002", if not remove the crank shaft and continue as below. You can also measure the gap between the wheels without splitting the case. Check the end play of the crank in the cases, too, if it's too great, that would indicate the gap between the flywheels is off, too.If your detecting any wobble in the crankshaft ends, or the gap is too close, you need to split the case to get this part right. The flywheels need to be parallel all the way around. To check this just get a metal scale and check the lineup between the two flywheels by laying the straight edge perpendicularly across the two wheels and see that the scale doesn't have any daylight anywhere it touches. If there is, then you need to tap the wheels into trueness with a brass hammer. No chisels are necessary. Also check the gap between the gap between the swhhels and make sure it's uniform and wide enough. But if the gap between the flywheels is too close, which is the mechanic is surmising, then the flywheels need to be spread apart a bit, but the chisel idea is not recommended on straight crankpins. (He's taking about sticking a chisel between the rod and flywheel, the chiseling will most likely knock the flywheels out of square.) You can support the flywheel in a fixture laid up with a couple of i-beam sections and use a hammer and big drift to drive them over a bit, or out as the case may be. The chisel is mentioned for tapered crankpins, but the RE is crankpin is straight.Bare
Yup.While reading your last post I was thinking, "He's feeling the cam lobes pushing the valve's open."No sooner had this thought occurred than I got to your comment about noticing that the resistance was timed with the tappet movement.