Winterizing recommendations ?

[gremlin]

OK .....  youse guyz in the southwest ....  No snide commentz pleaze !

Short of disassembly & packing in grease .....  What is the best way to pack away a UCE for winter ?

I'm planning on doing the following:

add stabil to the fuel & top it up.
replace the drive chain in spring.
change the oil twice with the cheapest stuff available.
ensure the cylinder is on compression stroke ( both valves closed )
shoot fogging goo into the cylinder.
shoot fogging goo into the primary case.
exterior wipe down with WD40.
covered with cotton canvas drop cloth.

The bike will be "barn stored" (unheated enclosed shed) in the Minnesota Metro area and forgotten until the snow melts.

Any professional advice ?  feedback ?  greatly appreciated !

[GA-DK]

No, no.  Put in good oil.  Top off fuel.  Drive a minimum of 15 miles to get engine up to temperature at least 3 times per week until spring.  GA-DK

[Ducati Scotty]

15 miles in a Minnesota winter?  Good luck!

The only thing I'd add to your prep are remove the battery and store it on a shelf, trickle charge when spring comes around.  And put it on the center stand to get most of he weight off the tires.

Scott

[hortoncode3]

I wouldn't get too anal retentive on weatherization...get it on it's center stand, lube the chain, change the oil (so it'll be ready to ride in the spring)and run the engine to operating temp, top off the tank and add fuel stabilizer, then shut it down and either pull the battery (my recommendation in a below zero climate, I bring mine inside) OR trickle charge it..
If an RE can't survive using these simple methods then we are ALL in trouble..

[gremlin]

No, no.  Put in good oil.  Top off fuel.  Drive a minimum of 15 miles to get engine up to temperature at least 3 times per week until spring.  GA-DK

I was thinking about investing in better armor & mounting studded lake tires ......  but, I don't think the MNdot would allow me to commute with it.   

[Maturin]

I guess the chrome needs a little extra attention. In addition  I use to replace the plug with an oily rag, another one goes into the tailpipe, after a good blow of WD40 . To avoid any rust in the engine´s interior it´s nice if you kick it through a couple of times every other week or so. Of course, battery out and tank filled up. That´s it.

[Ducati Scotty]

Rag in the exhaust and intake are good advice if it's really in a barn.  Keeps the critters from building nests in your engine.

Scott

[hortoncode3]

Actually I use a steel wool pad or an SOS pad..the mice will eat the rag.

[gremlin]

Actually I use a steel wool pad or an SOS pad..the mice will eat the rag.

See - now *THIS* is why I love this forum !

[Arizoni]

Yup.
When a mice sees a rag stuck in the tailpipe they shout, "Hey Maude.  This place comes pre- furnished with a nice new bed!"

With a steel wool or Brillo pad stuck in there they say, "What the hell is this?  Ain't no way I'm sleeping on THAT THING!"

[GlennF]

ACF50

[Ducati Scotty]

Thanks for the correction on rags vs. steel wool.  I'm a city boy, no mice in my garage so I just do it to minimize humidity.

Who am I kidding, I don't even winterize any more.  I used to but there's never more than two weeks in a row where I can't ride so there's no point.

Scott

[motomataya]

Last winter in Minneapolis I rode at least a couple times a month. The DOT uses massive amounts of salt around here so you don't want to ride a bike with any value. We will see if we get a real winter this year.

[gremlin]

............The DOT uses massive amounts of salt around here so you don't want to ride a bike with any value...........

So, do you recommend I buy another RE for winter use ?   

[GA-DK]

The ACF-50 is a very good idea.  Even here in Georgia.  GA-DK

[gremlin]

ACF50

Looks like the Royal Purple people are making WD-40 now !
Definitely new & improved.

[motomataya]

Gremlin, One for winter, one with a sidecar, and one more just cuz.

[gremlin]

I already bought the Just-cuz from you .....

[Marrtyn]

I go along with using ACF50 instead of WD40. I have used it for 3 winters now.Protects everthing, even the  electrics, -in fact the lot. And if you decide to ride the bike in wintry conditions ACF50 will protect against salt corrosion.( I do use WD40 in the summer time for a quick wipe over and clean up.)

[barenekd]

I do use WD40 in the summer time for a quick wipe over and clean up.

Cleaning up is basically all WD-40 is good for.
Bare

[squire]

Cleaning up is basically all WD-40 is good for.
Bare

When I was younger and lazier, maybe more stupid, I lubricated all my bikes chains with nothing but WD40 for about ten years and had excellent chain and sprocket life, in fact longer than any of my friends. It's not all bad!!

Now I'm on a Lemon Pledge kick, I haven't used anything on my paint, chrome, windscreens when I have one, helmet shields, you name it for about ten years. I've had bikes win "best in show" etc and everyone asks what wax I use......I would never admit to using furniture polish.

[Ducati Scotty]

Most of the "cleaner/polishes" that moto shops sell are more like Lemon pledge that anything else, though I'm sure they cost a lot more.  The one from Repsol has this awesome smell to it.

Scott

[trimleyman]

Winterizing , hmm . Never thought of that  , but then Eastern England winters were not as harsh as yours so we braved it in all conditions , snow , sleet,black ice, north sea gales and pea soup fog. Any day was a biking day.  Clean-up was a quick hose down to get salt off when you got home from the pub or cafe. At the week-end extra attention and lots of WD40 and chain lube to keep the salt at bay till next week-end. But having looked at your posts I know now what to do if I ever get tempted to 'winterize' and take to 4 wheels (or 3).

[mattsz]

Wake up, winterizing thread!

Sorry.  My plan was to ride until just before they started to salt the roads.  I rode to work this morning; it was about 42 deg F - not too cold.  I flipped a coin, and took the "back way" to work, and I lost.  Turns out two days ago there were cold patches along that stretch where the fog froze to the road surface, and the powers that be decided to salt the road.  I can't say whether they used the usual rock salt, or that new-fangled liquid calcium chloride, which is supposedly eating everybody's cars.

The road was clear of any evidence of salt, but it was wet, and so by the time I got to work, I had a salt-mist haze all over everything - me, my helmet, and of course the bike.  Damn - exactly what I was hoping to avoid.  I started to give it a basic hose-off at work, but it was still so hot that exhaust and engine parts started hissing and flashing off steam, so I quit right away, worried about breaking something serious due to thermal shock.

My question is, now what?  What's the best approach to desalinating the bike?  I don't have a pressure washer, so it will be a garden hose application.  I have read the manual's advice, but it seems like there's probably salty goodness in amongst the parts they recommend I protect against any water.

I'm hoping to find some ACF-50... does it go on everything?  Is it easy to apply correctly, without over-applying?

As for letting it rest with fresh oil, I did change the oil 281 miles ago (at 1486 miles), 2-½ weeks ago.  Is it "clean" enough for winter storage?

The rest I can probably figure out from the previous posts...

[gremlin]

............ What's the best approach to desalinating the bike? ..........

Um, I give up ......  keep it out of the Ocean ?

[singhg5]

Wake up, winterizing thread!

My question is, now what?  What's the best approach to desalinating the bike?  I don't have a pressure washer, so it will be a garden hose application.  I have read the manual's advice, but it seems like there's probably salty goodness in amongst the parts they recommend I protect against any water.

I'm hoping to find some ACF-50... does it go on everything?  Is it easy to apply correctly, without over-applying?

As for letting it rest with fresh oil, I did change the oil 281 miles ago (at 1486 miles), 2-½ weeks ago.  Is it "clean" enough for winter storage?
.

I had done something like that and ended up with rust spots on the exhaust pipe on the underside and on the side facing the wheel - because I did not wash the salt off the bike . Salt is pretty damaging. Once rust sets in, it does not come off completely without taking away the chrome with it. You can read all about it in one of the threads in the Forum.

My recommendation is to use your garden hose to WASH the bike with soap thoroughly, rinse, dry and apply ACF50 all over, everywhere. It is easy to apply from aerosol can and spreads easily. ACF50 goes on everything - plastic, chrome, paint and electrical connections EXCEPT brake pads, disc brake and tyres.

Oil is fine. 
 

[Arizoni]

I agree.
The oil is fine because it was well heated the last time the engine was running.

I also agree that you need to wash the bike with soap and water.  Then hose it off and dry everything in sight. (Paper towels work well and if they get greasy your significant other can't bitch.)
The soap & water washing will remove any light coatings of oil that might protect the salt form just a hose off.

I haven't used ACF50 so I can't comment on it.

[mattsz]

Well, I can't get anywhere near it until Wednesday, so hopefully things won't get too far until then.  Can't do anything else about it.

As for the oil, I was thinking more about the idea of changing the engine oil before storage to prevent nasty stuff in used oil from damaging internal components while sitting over a few months.  Is it likely that 3 week, 300 mile old oil is new and clean enough to be ok, or should I change it yet again?

[Blairio]

I use Scottoiler 365 protection spray if I am planning to take a bike out over the winter. 

http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/products/scottoiler-fs-365.html

It is a water based corrosion inhibitor which you spray liberally on your bike after washing it, and then let the bike dry naturally. It will protect anything, but keep it off disk brakes. Winter crud doesn't seem to want to stick to '365, and washing the bike that has had this treatment is much, much easier.  For those parts of the bike that are taking a real hammering from salt and grit, some ACF50 brushed on does the trick. I used WD40 for years before ACF50, but WD just doesn't stay on as long.

As for laying the bike up over winter, running an electric heater at a low setting for a while under the engine seems to help. I run it for an hour before trying to start the engine once a week. Also, a pit stand under the front forks keeps the  front wheel off the deck, while the centre stand is doing the same for the rear one.

[WillW]

Clean it & dry it and put it in one of these. It'll come out after winter as dry and shiny as it went in. You can put tools and anything else you don't want to corrode in as well. I've used them the last two winters and they really do what they say.
This'll be the first winter in the big new shed - bikes now have better accomodation than I do...
http://www.vac-bag.co.uk/index.php?_a=category&cat_id=1

[barenekd]

ACF-50 is great. You can spray it on everything. It will remove existing light rust and corrosion. If you over spray it, it will just run off, but leave a protective coat that should last for several months to a year. It is good stuff, commonly used by aircraft owners whose poor old airplanes are usually left out in the weather. They are sprayed on the structure inside and out.
Don't even try to compare it to kerosene, Oops, I mean WD40. It's a good parts cleaner, but for long term protection, it may be good for a month at the most.
Bare

[LarsBloodbeard]

Too funny, Bare!  It's true though.  I actually use WD-40 in a tub for parts cleaning.  Gets light gunk off without flash rust like chem-dip, but that's about all it's well suited for.

[gremlin]

Too funny, Bare!  It's true though.  I actually use WD-40 in a tub for parts cleaning.  Gets light gunk off without flash rust like chem-dip, but that's about all it's well suited for.

but then, you might not be noticing the thin layer of wax WD40 leaves that encapsulates whatever you wash with it.

[GlennF]

WD40 is not recommended for switches and contacts, it attracts and traps dirt and grime that eventually can interfere with electrical functions.

[LarsBloodbeard]

WD40 is not recommended for switches and contacts, it attracts and traps dirt and grime that eventually can interfere with electrical functions.

I learned that the hard way.  Many years ago I used WD40 to clean some switches and it just made a grimy mess out of them and added way too much impedance.  Pretty much ruined the switches.  I was young and had no idea there existed such thing as a cleaning spray for electronics.

[mattsz]

As for letting it rest with fresh oil, I did change the oil 281 miles ago (at 1486 miles), 2-½ weeks ago.  Is it "clean" enough for winter storage?

I'll rephrase this part of my question for clarity.  I understand that used oil can become acidic and "eat up" internal engine parts if left sitting over the winter, which is why an oil change just before storage is recommended.  I have 281 miles on my current oil, which I changed 3 weeks ago (Mobil-1 V-Twin 20w-50 synthetic).  Is this "used" enough that I should consider changing it again? I have 1486 miles total.

[Fogrunner]

I'll rephrase this part of my question for clarity.  I understand that used oil can become acidic and "eat up" internal engine parts if left sitting over the winter, which is why an oil change just before storage is recommended.  I have 281 miles on my current oil, which I changed 3 weeks ago (Mobil-1 V-Twin 20w-50 synthetic).  Is this "used" enough that I should consider changing it again? I have 1486 miles total.

I wouldn't worry about it. Oil only becomes acidic if there is water and fuel leakage into it, or from blow-by from the combustion chamber, combined with water. The acid attacks the bearing metal, but it is not so common on gasoline engines. Diesel engines experience this when using high sulphur fuels, but nothing to worry about on gasoline engines. There is also not going to be any amount of water in your oil, apart from maybe a minor amount from condensation.

[Fogrunner]

On the other hand, a great winterizing recommendation is to move to Philippines, where it dips to a very cold 24C !!

[gremlin]

@ MATT

your oil's PH should be fine (litmus paper can be used if you are that curious)

I like to change oil, drive around, then, change again to flush out as many of the small carbon particles as possible.  My personal belief is this will reduce the size and number of barnacles inside my motor.   

I'll use the cheapest oil I can find for this, and, it probably just makes *me* feel better ~ but, that's why I do lots of things !!   

[mattsz]

Ok you mugs...

The only place the salt treatment is showing itself is some rusty spots on the chain, which I plan on changing this winter anyway, and on the rivets on the cover of my "cheap" old-fashioned solo seat, which I just can't be bothered to worry about.

It's pushing 50 degrees today, so now's my chance: I topped up the fuel tank with Sta-Bil treated gas - brought the bike home, let it cool, and soapy-washed and rinsed it.  I dried it off by hand, shot it all over with an air compressor - which I think spread water around more than dried it, but what the heck - and dried it off by hand again.

But now about the ACF-50... I've got some; but do I really just cover everything with it?  No worries about it pooling in places and making a mess?  Shoot it into electrical connections?

Places I will try to avoid spraying: brake disc, tires, seat cover, rubber hand grips, rubber foot peg and foot control covers...

[mattsz]

A little bump, just in case anyone has any advice for applying ACF-50 before I get spraying...

[barenekd]

I just sprayed it on everything metal. Some of it dripped off on the floor, so it might leave you with a bit of a mop up. Come to think of it, mine is about due for another doucheing.
Bare

[mattsz]

Bare, and all:

I did the same - what a mess!  I covered the floor against overspray, but it still made a mess of the spots on the bike I was trying to avoid.  We may call it fogging oil, but it doesn't come out of the pressurized can as a fog, or even a mist, but a rough chunky spray - and the straw makes it worse.  I got rather more than I wanted to on the tires, and on the brake disc, too, I'm sure, but what's done is done.  I let it sit for awhile, and wiped it down a little to catch the drips and puddles.  I'll worry about cleaning it off the traction bits next spring.  The bike gets a corner seat in my garage for the winter.

I've topped up my tank with Sta-Bil - spiked fuel.  The manual says to "drain the fuel completely from the fuel tank and fuel lines."  I'm hoping that I'll be ok.  I really hope to be up and running again before April...

 

This winter: replace fork oil, replace chain (and sprocket, I guess), possibly modify my solo seat for better looks and comfort.  I'll also be trying to organize a warranty replacement (it's 4 hours to the nearest dealer I would think of trusting) of my front fender and fork tubes, where they got all torn up due to misalignment of the fender when it was assembled.  Maybe I should have "them" do the fork oil while they're taking it all apart?  I don't know, I kind of look forward to doing that kind of job...

[mattsz]

Any thoughts on what I should do, if anything, about taking the stress off the tires?  It's on the center stand, so obviously the rear is ok, but what about the front?  There's so little pressure in it, but I could block up the frame to get both tires off the ground...

[LarsBloodbeard]

I wouldn't worry about putting it up on blocks unless you expect the ground it's on to be moist.  Just check the tire hasn't gone flat every so often. 

But it also wouldn't hurt put it up on blocks either.  Lift up the front end a bit and put something under the front of the frame and shim it up so that both tires are just barely off the ground.

[mattsz]

It's in the cement-floor garage, which houses my wife's car.  So in theory it's dry, but in the winter, accumulated snow and salt drip off the car, and puddles tend to stand around for awhile.  But the puddles don't find their way into "my" corner.

Maybe I'll raise the front wheel just for fun - it certainly isn't hard!

[Ducati Scotty]

I go very light on the winterizing.  I'm lucky and I usually get a clear day every few weeks where I can ride so I don't need to worry about really long term.  I try to keep the tank full and if the bike sits for more than two weeks I do use a charger and turn the front wheel 90 degrees or so.  Just keeps from flat spotting the tire.

Scott

[GlennF]

Any thoughts on what I should do, if anything, about taking the stress off the tires?  It's on the center stand, so obviously the rear is ok, but what about the front?  There's so little pressure in it, but I could block up the frame to get both tires off the ground...

I wouldn't use blocks too risky.

You can pick up reasonable fork stands on ebay for well under $100.

[mattsz]

I wouldn't use blocks too risky.

Really?  I suppose so, but I was thinking of leaving it on the center stand, and putting a single block under the front of the engine just to tip the front wheel up enough so it's free of the floor, only about a half inch.  Seems to me that's no more risky than leaving it on the center stand - the worst that can happen is the block is knocked free, and front wheel settles back to the floor, yes?

Scotty, I would love to follow your lead and keep riding as I can throughout the winter - it seems impossible that I've been riding this bike for only 3 months!  We have the occasional days for it here, right on the coast, but they throw absolutely obscene amounts of salt on the roads, and I just don't want to subject the bike to that...

[LarsBloodbeard]

I agree with you mattsz, I don't think propping the front up slightly is going to make it less stable.  I've never had a bike fall off a center stand, earthquakes and all.  I've had sidestands slip closed on a nudge or sink and drop the bike, but never a center stand.

[Ducati Scotty]

I didn't mean you had to keep riding   But if you go into the garage once a week and turn the front tire a bit you'll avoid getting a flat spot.  No need to get a front stand.

Scott

[Jack Leis]

Mattsz , here's a little goody I made out of a piece of conduit I had laying around. Props the front end up and works like a champ. It is very stable too.

[mattsz]

Cool, Jack!  I have a bunch of scraps of Azek - it's plastic house trim, 3/4 inch thick.  I thought I'd just cut a piece to the right length, like you did.  No custom fit cutout planned, though!

[Jack Leis]

It just goes to show you Mattsz, necessity is the mother of invention !

[mattsz]

Just thinking ahead...

As I'm dabbling at my bike in the garage, I find that the ACF-50 coating I gave it is still as thick and drippy as it was when I applied it.  It's all over everything - that's where I put it, after all - and I can't look at the bike without getting the stuff all over me.  Like I mentioned last fall, they call it "fogging oil", but mine came out of the can in a lumpy spray.  I can't believe for a second that this stuff won't attract any dirt that gets on it.

What's the recommendation for cleaning off in the spring?  A hose?  Towels or rags?  Both?

[gremlin]

Simple Green

[mattsz]

Gremlin-

When I had "that other" bike, I rebuilt the carbs and was looking into using Pine-Sol as a cleaner and degreaser.  There's a thread on the ADVrider forum where the subject of Simple Green and aluminum came up.  Here's one post:

Simple green and the other purple cleaner can will work great but:

This has come up before in other threads..........simple green and aluminum do NOT get along............simple green and the other purple cleaners are strong base cleaners ( sodium hydroxide) and all warn about aluminum corrosion and marking/ discoloring and other problems.

Simple Green is not allowed on airports because of this aluminum corrosion concern.......they do have an aircraft safe version of simple green.

Some carb bodies are a zinc alloy and not aluminum but the corrosion concern are the same.

A lot of people agreed - it kind of scared me away from Simple Green.  Any experience using it on our bikes' aluminum?

[gremlin]

I learn something new every day on this forum.

[Ducati Scotty]

I haven't had personal experience but there seem to be a lot of stories about aluminum and Simple Green that end badly, a few on paint as well.  Since all of the aluminum on our bikes is raw and not clearcoated I just don't use it around the bike.

Scott

[motorat]

i have used wd40 as a cleaner and have had good results. the draw back that i can see is that it might leave an oily residue but that can be removed with warm water and dawn soap.

[mattsz]

So if people are using ACF-50 instead of WD-40, does that suggest that a soap and water wash should take care of it?

[motorat]

i am not sure.
i am unfamilular with acf-50.

[barenekd]

A lot of people agreed - it kind of scared me away from Simple Green.  Any experience using it on our bikes' aluminum?

I used Simple Green several years ago. Just spraying it on and wiping it off leaves a smudge behind. If it gets a chance to sit on aluminum awhile it will streak it and it's a royal PITA to get it off! I stay away from it!
ACF-50 is an anti-corrosion fluid that is supposed to just stay on the bike and prevent corrosion. Actually it works quite well as it doesn't just dry up like WD-40. It's good for a year or so. It's not too bad about attracting dirt, but I'm sure it will pick up a bit. My bike stayed fairly clean with it on. And it took care of a couple of spots that were inclined to rust.
Bare

[mattsz]

ACF-50 is an anti-corrosion fluid that is supposed to just stay on the bike and prevent corrosion. Actually it works quite well as it doesn't just dry up like WD-40.

Well, I certainly can't ride the bike as it is - I'd probably kill myself, and/or ruin whatever clothing touches any part of the bike.  It's all over everything and it doesn't wipe off well.  I wonder how it reacts to the extreme heat of the engine and exhaust... it must burn off?  Does it stain or smoke?

It remains to be seen whether the benefits outweigh the hassles - so far it's a lot of hassles!

[barenekd]

 Didn't have any hassles at all with it after letting the original excess application drip off. I haven't had to touch it since. The good part is it gets inside places that could corrode and keeps from allowing that. I like it, but to each his own. I used it on my GB-500 that sits a lot and it looks better than it has in years!
Bare

[gremlin]

Last winter in Minneapolis I rode at least a couple times a month. The DOT uses massive amounts of salt around here so you don't want to ride a bike with any value. We will see if we get a real winter this year.

real enough for ya ?

[REpozer]

ACF -50 and WD-40 and two different animals with differant uses.
I have both.

If your RE is in a heated garage with a sheet over it for a few months WD-40 is fine.

If being stored in cold wet environment (out side with a motorcycle cover) I would slather my motorcycle with ACF -50.

If I was leaving my RE for a year or two , I would use ACF -50 and other things, garage or not.

If all you have is WD-40, its much be to use that then nothing at all. Hopefully you can apply it several times thru winter.

[Rich Mintz]

OK, I've read through this entire thread (helpful) and I have a sort of elementary question: since I ride in winter, what routine procedure should I use once a week or so to get the ordinary salt and sand off the bike?

I have easy access to a hose and sprayer where the bike is parked, and obviously water in ordinary quantities won't hurt the bike. So tonight I put the bike up on the center stand, took out the hose, and gave a good rinse (from bottom upward) to everything non-electrical below the middle of the bike: wheels, mudguards inside and out, shocks, the exhaust system, even the engine casing. The latter two threw up a nice cloud of steam. I didn't rinse off the tank or anything up above because I wasn't sure if there were any electrical zones I should try to avoid.

The bike started right up after, so obviously doing that much is fine.

The rinsing didn't totally clear the exhaust pipe, so I assume that when the bike cools I should go to that with a clean cotton rag and soap and water. Is ordinary gentle dish soap okay?

To be clear: my bike is new and I want to keep it clean and in good running order. But it's a daily riding bike that lives in New York City. So I expect it to accumulate the ordinary marks of wear, and don't need it to be in showroom condition.

[gremlin]

.............what routine procedure should I use once a week or so to get the ordinary salt and sand off the bike? .............

....... Is ordinary gentle dish soap okay?

To be clear: my bike is new and I want to keep it clean and in good running order. But it's a daily riding bike that lives in New York City. So I expect it to accumulate the ordinary marks of wear, and don't need it to be in showroom condition.

That is an excellent question.  Both salt and dish-soap are water softening agents (wetting enhancement), so it follows that to get the salt out of the crevices, you will need something equally "soft" to get in there and flush it out.

how that would affect the swing-arm bushings, chain, and brake shoe pivots ..... I don't know.   you might consider adding a lubricating routine to follow your weekly cleanings.

[Royalista]

+1

Definetely some afterward routine, at the least WD40. Yet WD40 is not optimum, being thin and won't hold. Chain lube is good but a real hit is leatherfat (as in saddlesoap), an excellent protective. You might even consider skipping the weekly hose down as the fat will stick and keep the bike protected. Hose down after the salt's demise.

Another important issue is storage condition: garage should be non heated. Warmth will hasten the rust process. No need to freeze, cool is good.

[Rich Mintz]

Alas, heat is the one thing I can't avoid. I park in a motorcycle club that occupies an overheated floor of a multi-story garage.

[mattsz]

Hi Rich-

After my one run-in with surprise road salt, I started to wash my bike off when I got to work, and the steam from the engine and exhaust made me nervous of doing some thermal shock damage from too-quick a cool-down.  I hope we didn't do any potential damage - nobody seemed concerned about it here, though.  It was three days before I could get to washing the bike, and there was definitely some rust starting in a couple of spots.

ACF-50 seems to be the coating of choice, longer lasting and safer for electrics than WD-40.  But, it's more expensive and much harder to find - I had to mail-order it and shipping doubled my cost.  With the ACF-50 from the aerosol spray can, I tried to coat the bike with a thin, even application, but it just wasn't possible.  The stuff came out of the can in kind of a lumpy stream, rather than a fog or even a spray.  I found the over-spray to be excessive, and I basically ended up using the whole 13 oz. can before I had everything covered.  If I ever do it again, I probably would buy the smallest non-aerosol quantity (32 oz, I think) and figure a better way to apply it, maybe some sort of pump sprayer (either pump-up or even a simple windex bottle) that will allow me to choose the spray pattern I want, which is more of a mist.

Now that spring is coming and I'm starting to do some work on the bike, I'm finding that I can't touch anything without getting the residue all over my hands, and whatever clothing I'm wearing, which is fine for shop work but I wouldn't want it on my riding gear.  I just don't see how this stuff can avoid attracting dirt - my chain lube promised the same thing, and when I followed the directions for that, I still ended up with a black gunky mess, on the chain but also on the spokes and wheel rim (and yet, I still ended up with rust on the chain after my salty ride!  Don't care, 'cause I'm replacing the chain this spring, but I don't want a repeat performance!).

I've removed some parts - tail light assembly, headlight, speedo - and where I've tried to wipe the stuff off all the shiny glass and chrome parts with a clean rag, an oily residue is left behind which I'm pretty sure will require some sort of soap or cleaner to remove.  This residue is probably what's protecting the surfaces from corrosion, but it sure doesn't look very good.  I'm not interested in a show bike, but I don't want my glass and very few chrome bits I have to look so hazy.

When I asked about cleaning it off, I didn't really get an answer from any experienced ACF users - the consensus among the few who replied seems to be to just leave it on.  I may do that... invest in a roll of paper towels and wipe everything down the best I can, probably use some cleaner on the shiny bits, and see what happens...

I don't want to try to encourage you one way or another, I'm just telling you my experience as a guy new to this stuff.  Bare seems to like it - apparently he sprays it on, lets it drip-dry, and he's good to go.  I wouldn't feel comfortable riding my bike in its current state, too greasy - like trying to ride a greased pig!

[Rich Mintz]

Wow, Matt, thanks for the long and thoughtful account.

Given that I ride in winter in New York City and park in a heated garage, I'm probably going to have to live with some degree of rust. (Ditto with my car, a 2001 VW New Beetle that's lived outdoors, in a parking lot, since 2007. I do all the regular maintenance and wash it regularly, but nevertheless I'm sure the undercarriage is nasty.)

I'll do what I can to keep the salt off and to keep the bike from getting unnecessarily wet, and see where I am in a couple of months. I do have a built-in community (the other members of my motorcycle club, all of whom are much more serious motorcycle hobbyists than I am), so as I get to know people I'll ask them for their thoughts on winter riding and if I get anything interesting back I'll post it here.

[GreenMachine]

I hate when they go crazy with the salt and it piles up like glass beads at intersections/stop signs...I prefer the liquid they apply vice that crap..I  was like u guys, the first 2 years I rode the enfield all year round if possible..Now I just take the battery out around mid december ,  wax her in the spring, clean the chrome with metal polish and give her a bath (2/3 times a year) with whatever walmart has in auto soap "Mequires or turtle wash". Bike still looks great for a 06 inside my unheated garage...

[no bs]

i purchased a lee-enfield surplus rifle a few years ago that had been packed in g.i. cosmolene. wd-40 cleaned it up smartly. shoots great for a 60+ year old firearm. i still have about a half-gallon of wd for soaking parts. it does have it's uses.

[Desi Bike]

Any one ever try 'bar keepers friend' on a bike? I got a 32oz jar of it for free. Does amazing work on keeping my stainless cooking pots like new.