Author Topic: switched to the 7" headlight ammeter in the red since then (Read 925 times)

ammburger · « **on:** October 11, 2012, 02:09:34 PM »

As the subject line says. I went up to the assembled headlight a few weeks back from the 5". The change over was simple enough, swap the wires, bolt on and go. Ever since, my ammeter stays in the red when the bikes on and idling. It never really idled in the green but at least it stayed close to center. I've tested the battery, It reads in the 13V range when on and when revved, that said, I bought the bike a year and a half ago and it's never been changed.

Today while thumping to work, the bike stuttered, sputtered and died. Now she sits on the side of a road waiting for my return.

Any ideas what could be the cause? I'll probably star with a new battery.

barenekd · « **Reply #1 on:** October 11, 2012, 02:45:30 PM »

You probably put a 60W bulb in your light assy. The iron barrel alternator can't handle that much bulb. Put the original bulb from your old light into the new one if you can. If it won't fit, go to an auto parts store and find one that will fit with the same wattage as your old one.
Bare

mrunderhill1975a · « **Reply #2 on:** October 11, 2012, 03:35:27 PM »

It could be several things, perhaps unrelated to new headlight. If you have a volt meter, check the output voltage across the two violet wires at the alternator. They should be somewhere in the 47 or more volt range. Then check the the AC voitage at the rectifier (yellow wires) should be at least 35 volts. Then check the red and black wire at the regulator for 13-14.8 volts DC.

Report back with your findings.

ammburger · « **Reply #3 on:** October 11, 2012, 11:37:16 PM »

I'll start with swapping bulbs and take it from there. Thanks guys, will let you know what happens.

ammburger · « **Reply #4 on:** October 12, 2012, 12:25:05 PM »

Does anyone have a good lower watt suggestion of a replacement bulb for the 7" fully assembled sold by our host? I can drop in to Autozone or PepBoys this weekend.

t120rbullet · « **Reply #5 on:** October 12, 2012, 12:47:38 PM »

Quote from: ammburger on October 12, 2012, 12:25:05 PM

Does anyone have a good lower watt suggestion of a replacement bulb for the 7" fully assembled sold by our host? I can drop in to Autozone or PepBoys this weekend.

A H6024 sealed beam will do just fine in any model of Bullet.

You should state the year and model of your bike because there are different charging systems. From mid 99 up the headlight didn't go through the ampmeter so it shouldn't have indicated anything with the change and has no effect on the battery at all.
CJ

barenekd · « **Reply #6 on:** October 12, 2012, 01:06:34 PM »

I have an H6024 and I believe it's about 60W. They may come in different wattages, though
The original RE lamp is about 35W.
Bare

t120rbullet · « **Reply #7 on:** October 12, 2012, 03:26:05 PM »

Quote from: barenekd on October 12, 2012, 01:06:34 PM

I have an H6024 and I believe it's about 60W. They may come in different wattages, though
The original RE lamp is about 35W.
Bare

55/60W

barenekd · « **Reply #8 on:** October 12, 2012, 04:25:07 PM »

Hte owners manual says 50/35. that may be left over from the old manuals, which is like a lot of stuff in the new one. However the older iron barrels, and some UCEs apparently, aren't happy with with 60W bulbs.
Bare

ammburger · « **Reply #9 on:** October 12, 2012, 07:09:20 PM »

Pre June 99 Iron B!

t120rbullet · « **Reply #10 on:** October 12, 2012, 09:03:59 PM »

Ah, pre 6/99 eh. Mighty fine year if you ask me.

I ran/run a Wagner H6024 55/65 watt in both my 95 and 1/99 Bullets with no problems.
I picked up a battery made by Exide # YB7-A. It has almost double the CCA as the stock 12N7-4A has ( 120 as compared to 70 ) and is almost the same size ( 1/16" wider ) as the stock battery. Might have to trim down the cover a bit to clear the vent tube.
It made up the difference so when idling down the light wouldn't dim and the bike was still easy to start and would charge up when I was moving. I put the dimmest LED lights I could get in the nipple lights/dash lights and taillight in my 99 too. It work's better than the same headlight did with the AC lighting coil on my 2001 did.
No way to compensate for lack of juice on a system with no battery in the circuit.
Good thing about the old 3 wire alternator is you'll never overcharge the battery and boil it dry.
CJ

ammburger · « **Reply #11 on:** October 13, 2012, 03:48:54 PM »

At this point I'm looking to replace the bulb only. It's a Halonix H4 60/55W. The charging issue started when I put the new light on so I'm guessing that's a good place to start. I'll call our hosts Monday to see if they have a suggestion for a lower watt replacement. My 99 can't give all that juice!!

I don't have the owners manual. Can someone tell me how many watts the pre June 99 Bullet can take?

barenekd · « **Reply #12 on:** October 13, 2012, 04:35:12 PM »

Oops, wrong thread!
Bare

AgentX · « **Reply #13 on:** October 15, 2012, 10:14:58 AM »

Quote from: ammburger on October 13, 2012, 03:48:54 PM

At this point I'm looking to replace the bulb only. It's a Halonix H4 60/55W. The charging issue started when I put the new light on so I'm guessing that's a good place to start. I'll call our hosts Monday to see if they have a suggestion for a lower watt replacement. My 99 can't give all that juice!!

I don't have the owners manual. Can someone tell me how many watts the pre June 99 Bullet can take?

35w works well for my 1977. I believe it's a 35/35 bulb which is common in India but you could try the 55w high beam/35w low as an experiment.

ammburger · « **Reply #14 on:** October 17, 2012, 11:14:55 PM »

I put the 5" headlight back on today just to see if the charging went back to normal. it did, idled fine a little bit in the green on the ammeter. Took her for a spin and sputter, sputter stop again. Battery problem?

I'm also going to look at my air mixture because I could only start the bike with the choke on and as soon as I turned the choke off, it died again.

Suggestions?

AgentX · « **Reply #15 on:** October 18, 2012, 06:00:31 AM »

Check battery, then if that's OK, alternator output?

Arizoni · « **Reply #16 on:** October 18, 2012, 04:48:13 PM »

You might want to remove the carburetor float bowl and check for water or debris.

On my old carburetored bikes I found it doesn't take much to make an engine finicky.

ammburger · « **Reply #17 on:** October 18, 2012, 05:11:16 PM »

I'll take those suggestions to the bike. I did check the battery and it mostly hovered a bit above 12V. I have a analog tester so can't drill down too precisely. Once while idling the meter went down to 8V and started dropping. I went to check something came back tested again, back at 12V. It idled for another couple minutes then just stopped as if I turned off the kill switch.

Also, now it kicks back when the choke is open, I dialed back the air mixture and it seemed to help.... a little.

Finicky isn't the word!!

barenekd · « **Reply #18 on:** October 19, 2012, 01:22:55 PM »

If your battery is dropping to 8V with a load on it, it is shot. You need a newie.
Bare

mikail gransee · « **Reply #19 on:** October 20, 2012, 12:25:49 PM »

Quote from: barenekd on October 19, 2012, 01:22:55 PM

If your battery is dropping to 8V with a load on it, it is shot. You need a newie.
Bare

On troubleshooting a problem, the best is to start with what you did right before the problem. The light swap. Loose wire shorting ? Take the time check your wires and connections for bare copper or looseness.

pooletx · « **Reply #20 on:** October 20, 2012, 02:44:53 PM »

Speaking of switching from the smaller to the larger headlight, i cant seem to solve the mystery of the two wire high and low beam connection to the headlight and then the mysterious single Amber wire. I have a 2004 Sixty-5 and i have no clue what to do with the amber wire. I also have a new 50/40 bulb. Any info is appreciated.
John

pooletx · « **Reply #21 on:** October 20, 2012, 04:52:00 PM »

... And now the old stock 5 1/2" headlight doesnt work! Tried w multimeter to check Current and blue and green ( high and low beams ) and amber wire have juice. Stumped. Battery charged up. Other lights working. Horn working. Dang.

neil · « **Reply #22 on:** January 27, 2013, 08:42:16 AM »

John:

I to have a 2004 bullet 65 and my headlight is powered by the A/C circuit. No power and no illumination unless the engine is running to produce A/C power. That circuit is regulated by a separate voltage regulator. Don't know if this is helpful but it might help clear the question.

Neil and Buzzy the Bullet

ERC · « **Reply #23 on:** January 27, 2013, 02:16:31 PM »

Sounds like something in the carb. ERC

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Author Topic: switched to the 7" headlight ammeter in the red since then (Read 925 times)