C-G Military Newbie

[jazzcat007]

I just picked up a 'brand new' 2010 C-G Military from a local dealership in Memphis.  I haven't owned a bike in about 15 years.  My previous bike was a '72 Kawasaki Mach III.

I bought the C-5 with only 55 miles on it and have gotten that up to 180 commuting to work and a few light jaunts around town.  I spent the last few days reading just about every post in the "Bullet with the UCE engine" forum and realized that the "just change the oil at 500 miles" break-in described by the dealer might not be sufficient.  I've mostly kept it 35-45 mph range but I do have a short, probably half mile jump, on the hwy where I've gotten up to 70 mph.  Should I be worried about this?  I can keep it down to around 50 mph with no problems in that area moving forward.  Though not optimal for break-in would this be acceptable?  This bike is currently my main commuter for work.

I plan on changing the oil this weekend which should have me just over 200 miles.

[wildbill]

stick to your 35-45 mph run-in for 300 miles and don't go anywhere near that 70 mph mark till the bike is properly run in.
that will be when you cross the 1000 plus mile mark.
good idea on the first oil change. better sooner than later. remember oil and filter- not just the oil
some members change in 3 or 4 times in the first 1000 miles. yes! i was one of then.
good bike, and a good choice

[motomataya]

My two cents is, It's unlikely you did any harm with a quick run up to 70 but try not to at least until after the first oil change. Also don't be running around at 35 MPH in 5th gear. This motor doesn't need it and lugging is also not good 45 -55 is a nice happy place for your bike.

[GlennF]

There is an extremely controversial theory about that claims short periods of high revs are good during run in as it "seats the rings better".

Personally I would stick to the conventional wisdom and avoid both high revs and "lugging" (loading the engine at low revs by accelerating or going up a hill in a high gear) during run in.

High revs is bad for obvious reasons.

Lugging is bad because at low revs there is insufficient oil pressure to handle a heavy load.

[barenekd]

The oil change initial interval is 300 miles (500km). Common mistake. The second one should be around 1000 miles, not in the book, After that your kinda on your own. The book gives 3700 miles. A lot of people shorten that interval. Personally, I use it. I run Mobil1 V-Twin 20W-50 synthetic.
Bare

[idk]

I bought my G5 Military with about 400 miles on it as it was a demonstrator model. Somehow I doubt that it was run in according to "the book", but it runs great. It will free up even more after a couple of thousand miles or so.

Oil changes are cheap and so it won't hurt to do them more often than is needed. Don't forget to change the filter and that you will need to clean the other filter.

[jazzcat007]

Thanks for the responses.  I kept in the the 35-45 range staying mostly in 4th.  I brought it up to 55 in 5th for that short time on the hwy. 

I'll change the oil and filter this weekend.  What oil should I use for this first change?

[hortoncode3]

I wouldn't sweat the break in unless you were doing exclusively interstate travel..regular day to day riding is fine for break in..these bikers are no delicate flowers..they'll be fine. Just don't lug it..that's not good for ANY engine!

[jazzcat007]

This thing's really killing my crotch.  I'm only 5' 3" so I'm going to have to figure out how to the seat lowered.  With boots I'm not much off of the heels but I really need to get flat.  I don't really want to do the whole bike lowering package and can't find the C5 seat lowering kit.  A local cycle shop that built bikes for Elvis (Super Cycle) has a really thin springless saddle that might work if we can figure out how to mount it.

[GlennF]

A local cycle shop that built bikes for Elvis (Super Cycle) has a really thin springless saddle that might work if we can figure out how to mount it.

This is the spring-less seat arrangement on my B5 ...

[motorat]

i remember the guys at fresno bmw/enfield had a seat lowering kit. tri750 is on from time to time, you might give him a pm.

[idk]

Cowboy boots with non-slip soles work great as leg extenders. 

[mplayle]

I was similarly "seat challenged" by my last bike 10 years ago -30" inch inseam and a 32" seat height on a 1982 Honda CBX.

I opted for a sidecar option this time.   

[jazzcat007]

I'd love to have a sidecar but that'll have to wait for monetary reasons. 

I'm thinking of modding the stock seat.  There seems to be almost 2 inches worth of foam and with the springs I don't think I'd notice most of it missing.  We have a Tandy leather nearby.  Has anyone had success doing this?  Losing just an inch or so would put me flat and it might look nice giving a 'bobber' feel to the stock seat.

[Ducati Scotty]

I hated the original seat.  The cover comes off easily and the stock foam isn't glued on so it comes right off.  I glued on a few layers of high density closed cell foam that they use for kayak seats then sculpted it to the shape I wanted.  It's way more comfortable, I can do 6-8 hours before I get sore where I was in pain after an hour on the stock seat.  It's probably about an 1" to 1 1/2" lower and I wasn't even trying for that, it just came out that way.

Get some 3M spray adhesive at the hardware store and the foam at any kayak shop, both are pretty inexpensive.  Start the shaping with one of these:
http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Stanley-7.75-inch-Surform-Shaver/6395264/product.html?cid=202290&kid=9553000357392&track=pspla&adtype=pla&kw={keyword}
Once you get it rouged out switch to sandpaper.  Mine is still covered in some black spandex I put on in case I needed some more fine tuning but I hope to get some real upholstery done this winter.
 
Oh, and shaping/sanding the foam makes a god awful mess.

Scott
Scott