2008 500cc Electra X Classic Valve Adjustment

[bitphire]

Hi, just got this bike from a friend and said the valve needs adjusting. It's says on the sticker it's 2008 Royal Enfield Bullet Electra X Classic. I was trying to use http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bmgJPyCUNU as a guide but the cover he removes to adjust them has a wire connected to it. So want to check and see if that video will still work as a good guide.

Thank you,
Steven

Also, I am trying to find a copy of the service manual if anyone knows where to get online.

[Arizoni]

The video you linked shows how to adjust the valves on a Iron Barrel engine.

You have an AVL engine which (I believe) has the decompression device built into the pushrod cover plate.  The Iron barrels locate their decompression valve on the cylinder head.

The exhaust valve lifter on the AVL has an area on it which engages the decompression lever but beyond that, everything else in there is similar to the old Iron Barrel so you would do it like the video shows it.

[barenekd]

That wire on the tappet cover has got to be a ground wire for something. It certainly doesn't operate anything under that cover. You need to trace it back and see what it's connected to. It's not standard equipment as far as I've ever seen on an AVL.
The valve adjustment should be the same as the video.
Bare

[tooseevee]

That wire on the tappet cover has got to be a ground wire for something. It certainly doesn't operate anything under that cover. You need to trace it back and see what it's connected to. It's not standard equipment as far as I've ever seen on an AVL.
The valve adjustment should be the same as the video.
Bare

           He's not seeing a "wire" wire. I think what he's looking at is the decompressor cable. If you don't fool with the adjustments, you just take the cover off & put it back. It all just falls back in place. 

[bitphire]

Thank you for that information Arizoni!

He's not seeing a "wire" wire. I think what he's looking at is the decompressor cable. If you don't fool with the adjustments, you just take the cover off & put it back. It all just falls back in place.

It is a cable and so I would likely assume that it is the decompression cable but will have to check tomorrow. The battery was dead so left it to charge the rest of the night.
That statement put me off a little, we are adjusting the valves as they are tight. Since we are adjusting, is there going to be an issue with putting the plate back on?


Just wanted to say thank you for all the useful information. I really appreciate it and my girlfriend will to (this is her first bike)

[bitphire]

I really appreciate the info on my post. We are going to attempt to adjust the valves tomorrow and see if we can get her to start. The only problem is, I have no clue how to start it. I have started dirt bikes before, clutch in and kick (choke if needed). Though, on this one from some reading I have done, it's not as simple as that. lol

So here's hoping you can give a quick run down on what I need to do to try and start it and what to listen/look for if it does or does not start.

The bike was purchased from a friend of a family member and I will go to him as a last resort but he said he bets the bike will start once the valves get adjusted, I just don't know how long it's been sitting in his garage.

Also, I am still trying to find a manual so I can price/order it. Is there a more common name for this bike too? I keep searching google for 2008 Royal Enfield Electra X AVL Manual and not coming up with a lot of answers.

[1 Thump]

Before starting
1. fresh gas
2. new spark plug

 Avoid e-start if you can

Typical starting procedure:
1. Put bike on Centre Stand; side stand up
2. Ignition off
3. bike in neutral
4. pull in clutch and kick through a couple times to disengage the clutch plates
5. Push the decomp (not too easy but can be done while kicking the bike through) with a wide open throttle (prevents loading the combustion chamber with too much fuel) and kick through  a few times to get the oil moving
6. Set piston to TDC
7. Ignition on; emergency kill switch (red switch on the right handlebar cluster) off
8. Solid kick, dont go ballistic though. Repeat 6,7,8 if required.

If it does not start:
1. Check you on/off switches, side stand
2. Check spark (get fresh spark plug)
3. Check fuel (get fresh gas)
4. Check air filter

[barenekd]

How to find TDC, (or just past it). Leave the kill button or side stand down, ignition switch on, until you have done all the preceding chores listed above. Push the kickstarter until you feel the  piston resisting movement, then, with the decomp pulled, ease the piston on up until you see the ammeter center. I would just give it a slight nudge past that point, then release the decomp, turn on the kill switch or raise the side stand,, and kick it through with some gusto. You do this because when you get to the compression stroke again, the flywheel will have enough inertia built up to push the piston through compression with little wear and tear on you and the kickstarting gears.
Should start right up.
Bare

[boggy]

I use the Pete Snidal manual for my 2007 AVL, although I don't recall paying $55 for it!!!  Holy smokes.

Between that and the forums I've had my bases covered.

http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/maintenance-repair/manuals/snidal-repair-guide-spiral-bound.html

My AVL's e-start has never functioned for me. My 10 mile each way city commute isn't enough to keep the battery charged so it's kick-only. I do think a kick start bike is tough for a newbie as it requires getting back on the center-stand and kicking after every stall (not to mention perfecting the kick).  Maybe you can sort out your e-start better than I have. I never use it.

[boggy]

My kick starting routine is slightly different, but it goes 1st kick usually.

I turn the bike on but kill the light. Center stand down. 
With the bike in neutral, I push on the kickstart lever until it's REALLY tough to push.  I push JUST through that. It'll let up and wanna move freely but I don't do it yet. 
I let the lever come back to the top and then do one full kick through.  Be certain to kick ALL the way through. If you don't, that lever can snap back with severe force.

I'll do some decompression kicks if it's been a while but I'm not sure if it helps or not.  I use my carb's enricher in temps below 50F.

[barenekd]

The reference to switching off the ignition stuff, but not the key switch, you need the key on to activate the ammeter. HTis is for the bikes with EFI. I'm assuming one that has the decomp going into the side case has it. Every time you kick an EFI bike through, it shoots fuel into the injector and will flood the bike. So you need to turn of the juice to the injector to avoid that.
If it's ot EFI you can disregard the switch positions.
Bare
Bare

[Arizoni]

bitphire
You made a comment about starting dirt bikes and pulling the clutch in before kicking it over.

With the RE, the kick starter drives the engine crankshaft thru the clutch.
If the clutch lever is pulled in, the kick starter won't rotate the crankshaft.  It will only rotate the output side of the clutch plates.

Bottom line is, when you want the engine crankshaft to rotate DO NOT touch the clutch lever while your kicking the starter lever.

Because the bike hasn't been started for a long time, putting just a few drops of oil down the spark plug hole (while your changing the spark plug to a new one) will help to keep the piston rings from scraping the cylinder walls.
It will smoke when its first started but that should quickly stop.

Also, after adding the new fuel (regular grade octane) it wouldn't hurt to take off the float bowl from the carb and wipe out the inside.
Before replacing the float bowl, turn on the fuel tap to make sure it's working and not gummed up.  If fuel flows freely, push up on the float to make sure the fuel stops.
Do this a couple of times to wash out any crap that might have settled in the float valve.  Then, replace the carb. float bowl.

After checking the carb and replacing the spark plug you should be good to go.

Have fun!

PS:  These Royal Enfields have an old time transmission that takes long strong movement of the shift lever to get into the next gear.
The quick flick shifting of a dirt bike doesn't exist in this world. 

[bitphire]

Wow, thank you all for the responses. I was like 10 or 11 I think the last time I road a dirt bike and it was a 1980 90cc (not sure what model or anything) but I thought I had to pull the clutch in to start. Could be wrong as I never used the clutch as my shifter was a pair of vice grips so I had to lean down to shift and wasn't able to also use clutch.

Anyway! again thank you all! Here is me (yes I am too big for this bike, well imo I am) trying to get it started.
http://youtu.be/CTOU4-mu8pQ

As you can see it will start and then die a few seconds after. I managed to repeat this multiple times. Now I know the battery is dead as to get it that far I had to put jumper cables from my truck to the bike battery. Truck was not running!

Questions:
Is it the dead battery that is causing this? I tried leaving cables on and taking them off once it started and neither kept the bike running.

Does the bike sound pretty good? (It's an iphone/youtube video so I know it's not the best) I have never heard it running so not sure what it sounds like but to me it sounded pretty good.

I will get it a new spark plug and probably flush the gas out but not able to at this moment. Valves were adjusted and then we tried the truck/bike combo to start it so not sure adjusting helped it since the battery has been bad for who knows how long. My charger said it was bad but no $$ for a new one just yet.

Any other thoughts or tips?

Thank you all again, I was so happy the first time I heard it "run" even if it lasted 3 seconds at best.

[Arizoni]

If I were to guess (which I am), I'd say there is some junk in the bottom of the carb that's plugging up the main jet (or it could be just that the main jet is plugged).

I've seen cases where if this is the problem, the fuel will slowly seep thru the jet filling the tiny reservoir.  This could be enough to start the engine but it will die almost immediately because new fuel can't refill the reservoir.  Then in the short time that the engine is stationary new fuel can seep in.

As I say, it's only a guess.

[tooseevee]

That statement put me off a little, we are adjusting the valves as they are tight. Since we are adjusting, is there going to be an issue with putting the plate back on?

             I meant that if you don't adjust the decomp. you'll have no trouble with the cover & you probably wouldn't either way. Also adjusting the valves will not effect reinstalling the cover. They have nothing to do with each (which you probably know by now).