Author Topic: USB power ports? (Read 1205 times)

Rich Mintz · « **on:** February 16, 2013, 11:59:52 PM »

I'm thinking of installing some source of USB power on my bike, because both my helmet-cam and my phone (used as GPS) run out of power regularly during long rides.

Any advice?

What do you think of something like this? http://www.kuryakyn.com/products/4206/usb-power-source
I don't think I have enough clear bar space to install it on the handlebars, but it can be bonded to any square inch of flat surface...

dampking · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2013, 01:04:07 AM »

How about a Solar Charger? I mean, if the rides are during day times then Solar chargers can help!

-Sanket

Desi Bike · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2013, 09:56:44 AM »

Cigarette lighter outlet mounted under the seat. Cheaper maybe if you already have plug in chargers, I guess i'm old school but I think usb won't look right on a 1950ish bike.

Bulletman · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2013, 11:02:49 AM »

Quote from: Desi Bike on February 17, 2013, 09:56:44 AM

Cigarette lighter outlet mounted under the seat. Cheaper maybe if you already have plug in chargers, I guess i'm old school but I think usb won't look right on a 1950ish bike.

+1. That's the best alternative, I have the same setup. You can get the adapters from Amazon or Walmart for 10 bucks.

Royalista · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2013, 04:03:47 PM »

I mounted a cigarette lighter outlet and got something weird: kick start no problem, electric start no way.
Couldn't figure out what the problem really was.
Dismounted the system. All back to normal. Probably the stock battery is too weak for the extra fuse (15A)?

GlennF · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2013, 05:48:17 PM »

USB battery pack.

Or potentially a solar charged USB battery pack like this one ...

http://dx.com/p/4200mah-portable-dual-panel-solar-power-battery-pack-for-cell-phones-and-usb-gadgets-40210?tc=AUD&gclid=CNjU49bDvrUCFSExpgodWikARg

JesterNT · « **Reply #6 on:** February 20, 2013, 10:36:25 AM »

I have a Battery Tender Jr cable hardwired into my battery. I picked up a 12v outlet with a quick disconnect end off amazon for $8. I keep it in my toolbox with a two port usb cigarette adapter. I have a velcro strap to hold it to the frame when in use. It's quick and easy to deploy when I need it.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1361377761&sr=1-2&keywords=Quick+Disconnect+12v

barenekd · « **Reply #7 on:** February 20, 2013, 12:44:47 PM »

Quote

All back to normal. Probably the stock battery is too weak for the extra fuse (15A)?

A fuse won't change the load on a battery. You didn't mention how you wired it up or where you were taking the power from. Somehow you must've bypassed a switch that is necessary for the starter to function.
A hot wire from the battery to the adapter, and a ground wire from it, is all you need. If you want to add a fuse in the hot wire, that's fine. You don't need to get into the motorcycle electrical loom at all.
Bare

Jack Leis · « **Reply #8 on:** February 20, 2013, 03:10:22 PM »

I recently mounted a USB set up to run a GPS. I don't really care for the looks of things but right now I'm really just looking for function. I bought the 12v power adapter for 9.99 and the USB charger adapter for 5.99 from Cycle Gear on line. My Enfield is a continuous WORK IN PROGRESS and I will eventually relocate and conceal the stuff probably under the seat which is a brilliant idea Desi Bike ! Taking it on a 90 mile round trip tomorrow to see how it all holds up .

Royalista · « **Reply #9 on:** February 20, 2013, 04:04:17 PM »

Quote from: barenekd on February 20, 2013, 12:44:47 PM

A fuse won't change the load on a battery. You didn't mention how you wired it up or where you were taking the power from. Somehow you must've bypassed a switch that is necessary for the starter to function.
A hot wire from the battery to the adapter, and a ground wire from it, is all you need. If you want to add a fuse in the hot wire, that's fine. You don't need to get into the motorcycle electrical loom at all.
Bare

Hey, I jump at every spark. So I dug out the stuff.
It is a direct mount to the battery and the fuse is on the hot wire. Hot wire from the +, ground wire from the -. It is a pretty straight forward set up, so it should be ok, I'd thought.

It is dark now. I shall do a reinstall tomorrow. Battery is fully charged. I'll keep good track of every component involved. Who knows, illumination might be around the corner.

Jack Leis · « **Reply #10 on:** February 20, 2013, 05:48:51 PM »

Plus One Bare. Sounds like a poor connection at the battery.

Hierlekin · « **Reply #11 on:** February 21, 2013, 05:56:12 PM »

Quote from: JesterNT on February 20, 2013, 10:36:25 AM

I have a Battery Tender Jr cable hardwired into my battery. I picked up a 12v outlet with a quick disconnect end off amazon for $8. I keep it in my toolbox with a two port usb cigarette adapter. I have a velcro strap to hold it to the frame when in use. It's quick and easy to deploy when I need it.

I have a Battery Tender on my C5 and never even thought of this bit of brilliance!! Thank you!

shamelin · « **Reply #12 on:** February 21, 2013, 06:29:51 PM »

Quote from: Hierlekin on February 21, 2013, 05:56:12 PM

I have a Battery Tender on my C5 and never even thought of this bit of brilliance!! Thank you!

Then put on a helmet, because this is going to blow your mind!

http://www.amazon.com/SAE-USB-Adapter-Motorcycle-Charger/dp/B007VFFQRE

Hierlekin · « **Reply #13 on:** February 21, 2013, 07:42:56 PM »

Quote from: shamelin on February 21, 2013, 06:29:51 PM

Then put on a helmet, because this is going to blow your mind!

...

[mind officially blown]

...

Rich Mintz · « **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2013, 06:32:09 PM »

Really newbie question: So I have this wiring harness with black and red clips on the end, to attach to the battery. How do I attach it without getting electrocuted?

The battery terminals have flat screws on the ends. Do I loosen those with an ordinary screwdriver (with a plastic head, so I don't get electrocuted per the above) and pull out the leads? Then I slide the clips in and restore the leads and tighten the screws?

I know there is an order (red first then black, or vice versa, just like jumper cables) but I don't know why. Is it because electricity flows from pos to neg?

Will I see sparks, and from which terminal?

How do I make sure I didn't create a problem when I'm done? Is it sufficient to check that the bike starts (EFI) and that the accessory works?

Jack Leis · « **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2013, 06:57:41 PM »

Rich, there is absolutely no way you can be electricuted. Your only dealing with 12 volt DC. Trust me.

Arizoni · « **Reply #16 on:** February 22, 2013, 07:07:51 PM »

The 12 or 13 volt power is too low to break thru the resistance of your dry skin so there shouldn't be a problem even if you touch both terminals at the same time.

The red lead goes to the positive (+) terminal. The black lead goes to the minus (-) terminal.

Connect the red + wire first.
This doesn't have anything to do with the direction the electricity travels.
It has to do with preventing a short circuit.

The entire frame and engine of the motorcycle is connected to the black (-) negative wire.
If it is connected to the battery first, almost every exposed metal part will be connected to the battery.
If you then attach the red positive (+) wire you will see no reaction.
If you then try to tighten the positive wire and your wrench or screw driver happens to touch any other metal part of the bike it will instantly cause a short along with sparks, loud popping and you filling your pants.

I know of a guy who attached the negative ground wire first and then started to attach the positive wire using a wrench. He was wearing a ring on the hand that held the wrench.
As the wrench turned, his ring contacted a metal part of the frame. The power went from the battery thru the wrench, thru the ring and into the car frame.
The ring almost melted.

Anyway, always attach the red (+) wire first. Then when you are attaching the black (-) wire, even if your wrench touches the frame or engine there will be no possibility of causing a short. After all, the black wire is already making contact with the frame and engine.

Gypsyjon · « **Reply #17 on:** February 22, 2013, 08:34:03 PM »

Quote from: Hierlekin on February 21, 2013, 07:42:56 PM

... [mind officially blown] ...

+1

FiRE Comms · « **Reply #18 on:** February 22, 2013, 10:27:01 PM »

I grounded out an old escort way back when and had to replace ALL of the fusible links... talk about a pain...

+ mind still blown +

and can't stop laughing

Jack Leis · « **Reply #19 on:** February 22, 2013, 11:17:02 PM »

Nice write up Jim, I admire your patience. + -

Scottie J · « **Reply #20 on:** February 23, 2013, 11:00:47 AM »

Typically, any time you're working on an automotive battery with a NEGATIVE ground, you always want to disconnect the - black cable first, and then the + red cable. To reconnect, install + red cable first and then the - black cable last.

BUT! AND THIS IS IMPORTANT!
If you have a POSITIVE GROUND system, you MUST disconnect + red cable FIRST and then disconnect the - black cable. Then to reconnect, - black cable first and then install the + red cable last.

Bottom Line - ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE GROUND FIRST AND INSTALL LAST!

The reason for doing this is so you don't ground out your tools from the battery to the chassis. If you disconnect the ground first, whether + or -, and you hit your tool on the chassis, you WILL NOT arc the electrical system. If you disconnect your power lead first and you ground out your tool, you will blow fuses and damage electronic components such as ignitions, sensors, and the ECU. Scottie

72westie · « **Reply #21 on:** February 23, 2013, 12:33:28 PM »

Bikemaster makes some nice power port set-ups. I am currently using 2 of them on different vehicles. I has a 2 cig lighter and 1 usb set up in the glove box of my Jetta so I can charge my I-phone. I use a Yuasa battery tender type lead because it is fused.

I have another one in my old Single Cab truck, it has 2 usb's and 2 cig outputs. The only thing I don't like about that one is that is has a couple of LED's that light it up showing it has power. Its kind of like a kaleidoscope.

gremlin · « **Reply #22 on:** February 23, 2013, 10:53:46 PM »

Quote from: Arizoni on February 22, 2013, 07:07:51 PM

....................If you then try to tighten the positive wire and your wrench or screw driver happens to touch any other metal part of the bike it will instantly cause a short along with sparks, loud popping and you filling your pants........

That my friends is known as a "word-picture".

Most excellent answer AZ.

Jack Leis · « **Reply #23 on:** February 25, 2013, 11:24:21 AM »

3 days later, im still shocked.

no bs · « **Reply #24 on:** February 27, 2013, 02:07:14 PM »

electricity(dc) flows from positive to negative.

gremlin · « **Reply #25 on:** February 27, 2013, 05:22:13 PM »

Quote from: no bs on February 27, 2013, 02:07:14 PM

electricity(dc) flows from positive to negative.

Maybe ... but, electrons flow from - to +

Arizoni · « **Reply #26 on:** February 27, 2013, 11:33:14 PM »

Yah but everybody knows them electrons have a negative attitude.

Desi Bike · « **Reply #27 on:** February 28, 2013, 06:16:43 AM »

Are you positive about that Arizoni?

AgentX · « **Reply #28 on:** February 28, 2013, 08:13:04 AM »

I had not anticipated the discussion becoming so highly charged.

Desi Bike · « **Reply #29 on:** February 28, 2013, 11:29:51 AM »

Are you a copper?

Royalista · « **Reply #30 on:** February 28, 2013, 03:23:38 PM »

Just galvanized

Jack Leis · « **Reply #31 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:11:30 PM »

I like to ride my G5 until it HERTZ !

Desi Bike · « **Reply #32 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:15:28 PM »

Make a sine or some kind of wave as you head by on your way to DC

Rich Mintz · « **Reply #33 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:21:38 PM »

(Desi wins)

Jack Leis · « **Reply #34 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:23:59 PM »

Quote from: Rich Mintz on February 28, 2013, 05:21:38 PM

(Desi wins)

Im shocked

Arizoni · « **Reply #35 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:26:15 PM »

My wife thinks this topic has become revolting .
Now, I'll have to conductor back down the hall from whence she came.
Maybe showing her one of the new farad's showing the photo of the RE Cafe will help?

If this topic doesn't get back on line I don't know watt we'll have to do.
Go ohm I guess. No, wait, I'm already ohm, sitting in my darkened room shining my electrolyte around to see with.

Jack Leis · « **Reply #36 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:28:17 PM »

Well then concider it rectified !

Desi Bike · « **Reply #37 on:** February 28, 2013, 06:03:07 PM »

I couldn't resist but to make another comment.

I'm trying to fuse together some witty lines to say but i think my conduct might lead one to believe I know a lot of witty things to say. Common wisdom states I should resist any further things lest I be viewed as one with high capacitance to make up such things.
We best switch back on topic lest we get grounded by the powers that run this board and get charged and have to face a circuit judge.

Jack Leis · « **Reply #38 on:** February 28, 2013, 06:54:20 PM »

After my 200 mile ride today, My Joules hurt !

Rich Mintz · « **Reply #39 on:** February 28, 2013, 07:21:56 PM »

OK, serious followup now:

Tonight I installed the USB power ports I mentioned up-thread, and mounted the unit on the handlebars.

The installation was not actually that difficult (I did see a couple of orange sparks at one point on the negative battery terminal, but I'm a big boy). Except, two things:

(1) On the negative terminal of my battery, the wire doesn't screw into the post. The inner (cubical) housing of the post, where the threaded holes are that grab the screw, is missing. So the screw on the end of the wire assembly basically just flops loosely through the big outer hole on the post, and is held in place by the pressure of the rubber cap and the tight seat of the battery against the back of the housing. Because the battery seats so tight, the connection is fine (in fact I wasn't aware of this until just now, and I've ridden almost 2000 miles). Do I need to fix it, or can I leave it the way it is?

(2) Routing the wiring is a pain. Why do they give you so much damn wire? I ran it under the gas tank (above the engine), cable-tying it to the wiring that was already in there (to keep it off the top of the engine), threaded it through to the underseat area, then clumped up the excess into a cable-tied packet under the seat just rearward of the battery.

But power is flowing to the bike, and power is flowing to the accessory, so as best I can tell, I did it right. And now I'm not scared of batteries anymore.

Rich

gremlin · « **Reply #40 on:** February 28, 2013, 07:37:49 PM »

Quote from: Rich Mintz on February 28, 2013, 07:21:56 PM

.................the wire assembly basically just flops loosely through the big outer hole on the post, and is held in place by the pressure of the rubber cap and the tight seat of the battery against the back of the housing. Because the battery seats so tight, the connection is fine (in fact I wasn't aware of this until just now, and I've ridden almost 2000 miles). Do I need to fix it...I'm not scared of batteries anymore.

Yes, fix it or get stranded.

Congrats on overcoming your justified fear of stored energy.

Rich Mintz · « **Reply #41 on:** February 28, 2013, 07:56:03 PM »

Gremlin, that's what I expected you'd say (not just you, but all of you).

There may be an aperture on the outside of the (cube-shaped) post that's large enough to fit a bolt into. I would use that bolt to hold the screw that's currently flopping loosely through the hole into the interior of the post. But that would involve sticking my fingers (or poorly insulated, awkward tools) in or near a live battery terminal for an extended period and fiddling, and I'm not thrilled with that.

If that's impossible or unwise, can I get a small steel clamp of some kind that holds the negative wire onto the terminal?

If not, it seems to me that I have to buy a new battery. Do you agree?

Rich Mintz · « **Reply #42 on:** February 28, 2013, 08:03:09 PM »

Wait, I'm stupid. I may be able to thread a longer bolt through two opposite holes on the post and use a large nut to hold it permanently secured, then bolt the negative terminal wire to that with a second nut. It depends whether the ergonomics work (it's a tight space and the uninsulated overhang of the bolt will be connected to a live battery!) and may not be worth the enormous pain in the ass to make it happen.

Desi Bike · « **Reply #43 on:** February 28, 2013, 08:17:13 PM »

I'd hate to short a tool from the negative terminal of a battery to a negative grounded frame... That would be frighteningly uneventful.

Jack Leis · « **Reply #44 on:** February 28, 2013, 09:04:28 PM »

Desi, I believe its OPEN SEASON.

Jack Leis · « **Reply #45 on:** February 28, 2013, 09:09:06 PM »

Rich , post a picture of what you have. It would be alot easier for some of us follow.

Desi Bike · « **Reply #46 on:** February 28, 2013, 09:11:55 PM »

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

If you stuff a rag over the positive terminal.side of the battery, you should have no problems working on the negative terminal with tools.

Arizoni · « **Reply #47 on:** February 28, 2013, 09:57:05 PM »

Desi, I know your enjoying it but I think your giving Rich a bit of concern when none is warranted.

Desi, there is nothing connecting the positive terminal to the frame or the battery unless the key is turned on. In other words, there is no way you can get a shock by messing with the negative terminal, connected or disconnected.

Your idea with installing a bolt thru the wiring connector and the two holes and securing it all with a nut is the way to go. It is probably what was intended in the first place and whoever put the battery in before you got it did a half ass attempt to make up for not having the right screw and nut. Shame on them.

Use the screw and nut and do it right.

gremlin · « **Reply #48 on:** March 01, 2013, 07:20:55 AM »

The boxed electrode is usually open on the sides to allow for the insertion of a square nut.

remember those cheap metal shelving cabinets that came with a bag of short pan-head screws and square nuts ? ( the flat-pack ones from the 80's & 90's )

that hardware should work perfectly.

Rich Mintz · « **Reply #49 on:** March 10, 2013, 07:37:14 PM »

I'm going to have to fix my battery terminal problem properly tomorrow. All I need is a square nut with very narrow dimensions (exactly per Gremlin's suggestion above) that fits the bolt that holds the negative battery terminal connector onto the terminal.

The reason I have to fix it properly is that now that I've added another accessory harness to the terminals, I can no longer get the crappy plastic lock on the battery cover to engage, and every time I take everything apart (to try to seat the battery better) it takes me 15 minutes to get it back together. I gave up after an hour and decided I'd go get a nut in the morning and fix it right.

In related news, is it possible to replace the crappy plastic lock with a more substantive metal lock fitting the same aperture?

b.sheets · « **Reply #50 on:** March 11, 2013, 02:12:22 AM »

http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/battery-lock-replacement.html

or

go about halfway down the page on:

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-electrics-charging

Pt. No. 92024 BATTERY COVER LOCK, STAINLESS

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Author Topic: USB power ports? (Read 1205 times)