A deal on Mobil1 @ AutoZone

[TWinOKC]

Expires March 4

http://www.autozone.com/images/MEDIA_ProductCatalog/m1520203_view_sz_slot_2.pdf?CJPID=3176219&cmpid=cj

[mattsz]

Thanks for that!  I think they've changed the label, and they wanna get rid of the old bottles...

[barenekd]

Since they have recently jacked up the price a buck, anything helps!
Bare

[mattsz]

$7 of three jugs of synth oil...

I stopped by on my way home from work tonight, with a printout of the coupon.  Their system didn't recognize the coupon - the guy couldn't get it to work at all.  He finally just removed one of the jugs of oil from the invoice, and entered it again, overriding the price at $3.99 instead of the $10.99 list...

[jartist]

Cool thanks!  I'll spend the savings on a sandwich- a free BLT with the purchase of three quarts of oil!

[gremlin]

He finally just removed one of the jugs of oil from the invoice, and entered it again, overriding the price at $3.99 instead of the $10.99 list...

$11 per quart ?   Dude - what a rip-off.

check your local farm supply, any resonable low $ oil will work in these cold-blooded, 2nd world machines.

[mattsz]

Maybe MN has better farm supply outfits than ME - none around here sells synthetic moto oil...

[Ducati Scotty]

Any oil will work but an extra $10 for full synthetic every oil change (it only takes 2 quarts) is really cheap insurance.  I run full syn in all my air cooled engines.  They run hot and snthetic handles that with less breakdown.  That said, I'm sure if you fed these things WalMart brand oil their whole lives they'd probably be fine.

Scott

[TWinOKC]

Any oil will work but an extra $10 for full synthetic every oil change (it only takes 2 quarts) is really cheap insurance.  I run full syn in all my air cooled engines.  They run hot and snthetic handles that with less breakdown.  That said, I'm sure if you fed these things WalMart brand oil their whole lives they'd probably be fine.

Scott

+1  $10 = cheap insurance

[TWinOKC]

$11 per quart ?   Dude - what a rip-off.

check your local farm supply, any resonable low $ oil will work in these cold-blooded, 2nd world machines.

Use motorcycle specific for the engine but also for the clutch as well.   
Dino might not work so good in the clutch assy.  

[Ducati Scotty]

Car oils have less of the nice compounds that cushion the gears in the tranny because those compounds also degrade catalytic converters over time and raise emissions.  Moto and diesel oils still have higher concentrations of these.  Aside from that, car oil is fine for a bike so long as it's not labelled 'energy conserving'.  Those oils have friction modifiers that reduce friction for better mileage but can cause a wet clutch to slip.  Though honestly, this mostly happens on high powered sport bikes and not humble bikes like our RE.  And don't go for any oil engine treatment products like Slick 50 or similar.  These are loaded with friction modifiers.

Scott

[gremlin]

Delo, or, Rotella  from your local farm supply  (after the warranty expires, of course)

These engines run cooler than most and they like thick oil.

[Tri750]

$11 per quart ?   Dude - what a rip-off.

check your local farm supply, any resonable low $ oil will work in these cold-blooded, 2nd world machines.

Sounds like salesmanship to me! 

[Scottie J]

As far as Mobil 1........  Hands down 1 of the BEST oils available today.   

Motorcycle specific oil not only doesn't have friction modifiers, it's also non-detergent oil, both of which can cause damage to a wet clutch.  But, I was told by a Brit bike mechanic, that because the older RE's have cast iron cylinders they tend to run hot, breaking down oil prematurely.  And that by running a good synthetic car motor oil with friction modifiers it can help increase the life of the motor without damage to the wet clutch because the clutch is in the primary case with a separate source of oil.

Personally, I think I'm going to start running 10W-40 Mobil 1 synthetic and add some BG MOA.  THAT, my friends, is amazing stuff.

[Arizoni]

The old iron barrels and the AVL engine both have a seperate oil supply for the primary chain and their wet plate clutches.
The UCE engines do not.

Because the UCE engines use the engine oil to lubricate the primary drive, wet plate clutch and transmission gears I think it's best to use a motorcycle specific oil that won't damage the clutch and has the additives to cope with the heavy pressures in the gear train.

I use Mobil-1 V-Twin and although it is expensive I know it is doing everything it needs to do to keep my engine/transmission/clutch working like they should.