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Author Topic: decompression cable  (Read 379 times)

'45 WD CO

  • '45 WD Enfield
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  • 2006 Bullet 500 Deluxe and 1945 WD CO
decompression cable
« on: March 08, 2013, 02:40:27 PM »
anyone ever reinstall the decompression cable on a WD/CO (1945)?  Mine broke and I'm putting the new one on tonight.  Thanks,  Bill

mrrstr

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Re: decompression cable
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2013, 08:04:35 AM »
I've been looking for one of these cables for a 500.  Any idea where I can get one?  How did you get that thing off?

If you've done the install, any tips?

'45 WD CO

  • '45 WD Enfield
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Re: decompression cable
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2013, 10:50:16 AM »
what year is your bike?  If it's a regular Bullet 500, then just use Pete Snidal's manual.  Getting the cable out is easy enough.  Just loosen the 2 nuts and work the nippel out.  I haven't had any luck getting it back on though.  I bought a replacment cable at Hitchcocks.

mrrstr

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Re: decompression cable
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2013, 03:00:17 PM »
Do you actually need the decompression switch to start the bike?  I bought mine essentially seized, so I haven't actually had to start it yet..

barenekd

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Re: decompression cable
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2013, 03:31:20 PM »
You don't need it, but it sure makes it easier! And fewer kicks because you can clear flooding, or suck in prime much easier.
Bare
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2011 Black Classic G5 (RIP)
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mrrstr

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Re: decompression cable
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2013, 08:11:53 PM »
Is it possible to get rid of the cable and just press it with your thumb?  Or does it have to stay open while kicking?  The video I saw made it look like he just let the compression out when it was TDC, and then he kicked it from there, but I couldn't tell.

Arizoni

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Re: decompression cable
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2013, 11:07:21 PM »
The idea in starting a big 500cc single is to bring the piston up to the compression stroke (where it will become almost impossible to kick over).  Then, with the compression release open, kick the piston up to TDC.  If you have the old points/coil ignition the ammeter which was showing a discharge will come back to zero as the ignition points open. 
If you don't have an ammeter, you will still be able to feel when the piston passes TDC as it gets much easier to kick. 
Stop there and reset the kickstarter.  Reset the compression release so it is no longer letting the compression out.

Using the ball of your foot on the kickstarter, give it a good strong kick down to the bottom.  That will get the heavy crankshaft/flyweights spinning fast enough to compress the fuel/air mixture to TDC and (hopefully) it will start.

If it doesn't, repeat everything including re engaging the compression release.

At an idle speed, if the compression release is engaged it will let out enough of the compression to cause the engine to die.  That's why it must be shut off before you try to start the engine.
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary

'45 WD CO

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  • 2006 Bullet 500 Deluxe and 1945 WD CO
Re: decompression cable
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2013, 08:28:40 AM »
Yes, it's possible to live without the decompression cable; that's why they sell the plug that you can install instead of the cable.  Not only, though, do you need to have her at TDC (the decompression cable makes this easier to do) to kick the bike over, you should also put the bike in TDC when you shut it off, otherwise you risk oil actually being sucked out in the first few minutes after shut-down.


mrrstr

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Re: decompression cable
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2013, 08:32:47 AM »
What do you mean oil being sucked out?  Where does it get sucked out from/to?  Is this where the wet sump problem comes in?  I still don't understand how that problem occurs, because I'm still unfamiliar with the oiling system.  Thanks!

'45 WD CO

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Re: decompression cable
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2013, 09:38:51 AM »
Yes, it has to do with the wet-sump problem.  Go to this website for more info and a video about it: http://www.hoohoohoblin.com/RoyalEnfieldBullet500.html

Also, I was successful in replacing my decompression cable on my '45 WD CO by using the following procedure:
If you have an older RE(45 WD CO), then
you should read on. In order to replace the decompression cable (also called
the Exhaust Lifter Cable, which should be a clue of how it works!), you'll need
to access where the cable pulls the decompression lever, which is in the tappet
area. It's in this area because the decompression occurs by pushing up the
exhaust pushrod, which, of course, holds open the exhaust valve. Once you've
opened the tappet cover and located this mechanism, go ahead and remove the two
nuts where the decompression cable goes into the cylinder barrel, and then work
the nipple out of the decompression mechanism. When you do this, the spring
which provides tension on the system will fall down in the tappet area. Get the
spring out before continuing and pull the old cable completely out. When
installing the new cable, you'll need to insert the cable into the cyliner
barrel and first put in through the spring, and then put the nipple through the
decompression mechanism. At that point, you should be able to pull the cable,
which will then lift the exhaust pushrod. If it works, then tighten the two
outside nuts to secure the cable, and then insert the other end of the cable
into the handlebar control lever. Very simple.


mikail gransee

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Re: decompression cable
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2013, 11:54:37 AM »
Is it possible to get rid of the cable and just press it with your thumb?  .
I have done this to mine,,,just attached a button to the decompressor and stand on the right side of the bike to kick it over.
-"ONCE YOU STOP CONTRIBUTING, YOU BEGIN TO DIE",   -ELENOR ROOSEVELT

1999 Enfield Bullet
1977 Yamaha xs360 TD
1978 Yamaha xs 400 D
2005 Yamaha YZF 600R
2007 Honda CBR 1000RR