Turn signal indicator replacement.

[young gun]

Hi, I am new to the forum. I live in Johanessburg, South Africa and I have just bought, which to my knowledge looks to be a 2005 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 (AVL, Sixty5). I got it in really good condition with very low milage (2600km/1625miles). The bike so far has been great, as expected, its a relatively quirk which is why I decided to buy it.

One big bug bear I have is the turn signal indicators, although they do glow, is close to pointless as you cant see them when you are riding. The indicator pod to me seems pretty pointless since you really have no idea whether the turn signals have been deactivated unless you actually take a look at the indicators themselves.

I've been looking at the Hitchcocks catalog and there seems to be a few fixes but to be honest, all I really want to do is change the turn signal indicator bulb in the speedo console to LED and that should sort out the issue. Right now its pretty dangerous as I find im second guessing myself everytime I cancel the indicator, have I cancelled it, have I inadvertently switched on the other indicator etc.

Any ideas?

[young gun]

Oh and here's a pic of my lady

[Chuck D]

Young gun,
What you've got there is a black and chrome "Classic Deluxe", not "Sixty-5" with the "iron barreled", not "AVL" engine. And it looks mint.
Do this. Before a ride, verify that your turn signals work. While you are riding if you think you forgot to cancel the signal just press the button again. More than likely, they'll be doing exactly what they're supposed to be doing. Activating either the right or left signal is a distinctly different action from canceling as far as your thumb is concerned and there really shouldn't be any confusion there.
Welcome aboard!
Chuck.

[boggy]

Chuck is there a "cancel" button on your controls? I don't have one on mine.

young gun, if you don't have a cancel button, one trick I do is press 'in' on the button to make sure it's off.  On my bullet, if the switch is in the off position (not right or left) you can press in on the button and it has a springy-give to it. If it's in the on position (right or left) it won't push in so you will know they are on.  Pressing it in doesn't cancel a turn indicator on my controls.  This is just my quick-trick of making sure my indicators are off.

That is one really nice looking Iron barrel Bullet.

[barenekd]

Get some LEDs for it. The part number form Super Bright LEDs in the US is BA9S-W4-90-12V. You will be able to see these easily in the daylight. Be sure to get the W4 version. The W version has one LED in it vs 4 in the W4 version. The Ws aren't any better than stock. You can replace all three bulbs in the Speedo with them. Bulbs are available for everything in the bike except the headlight and do not replace the actual turn signal bulbs. The LEDs won't work.
Bare

[Jack Leis]

Beautiful bike ! Welcome to the forum young gun !

[Chuck D]

Chuck is there a "cancel" button on your controls? I don't have one on mine.

young gun, if you don't have a cancel button, one trick I do is press 'in' on the button to make sure it's off.  On my bullet, if the switch is in the off position (not right or left) you can press in on the button and it has a springy-give to it. If it's in the on position (right or left) it won't push in so you will know they are on.  Pressing it in doesn't cancel a turn indicator on my controls.  This is just my quick-trick of making sure my indicators are off.

That is one really nice looking Iron barrel Bullet.

Boggy, those controls look identical to the Minda's that came stock on mine and if I remember correctly they would move either left or right and then return to the neutral middle thus you could not look at the switch and know if it was "indicating". So when I had 'em I'd just hit the button again to make sure they were canceled.
Chuck.

[barenekd]

If the button is in the middle and you push it, that will turn the signal off. Sometimes mine would turn off just by returning it to the center.
Bare

[young gun]

If the button is in the middle and you push it, that will turn the signal off. Sometimes mine would turn off just by returning it to the center.
Bare

Yup that sounds like mine. I'll try Chucks trick, hopefully it works if not, LED's will be going in. I love nostalgia but not at the sake of my life

Whats the difference between the AVL and the cast iron? Over time i'll be making some changes to the bike, its why I decided to go in this direction, so understanding what I am dealing with is always a good thing there are so many models and variations of models, you can get a bit lost.

And yes, I think I scored here, the guy owned 2 Harley's and they got most of his attention which is why the milage was so low, but he did care for her

[young gun]

Oh and the reason I thought it may be the Sixty5 was because it has a starter and a 5 speed box? Can you use VIN numbers to determine the model somehow?

[Chuck D]

Young gun,
The "AVL" was a transitional engine that was used on some models for a few years to bridge the gap between the older (and original) design and the spankin' new "UCE" engines of all models since around 2010 (was it?). Your bike has got the good 'ol fashioned, been around for 60 or so years, cast iron barreled engine.
If real "vintage" as opposed to "retro" is what you were after you got the right bike. It gets a little confusing because for one thing, RE designates essentially the same models by different names according to which market they're being sold in and also using the word "classic" in the naming of the new B5,and G5 UCE bikes. This sight doesn't help matters much since the advent of the B5'sand G5's  by using the word "classic" in the heading for topics related to the cast iron barreled bikes. Personally, I think that anytime you have to call something classic in it's name, you are simply calling attention to some fakery. But again I digress.
Back to the AVL's for a moment, if you see one quickly, they do bear a passing resemblance to the older engines but there is absolutely nothing that is interchangeable about them.
The "Sixty-5" was a styling exercise (around 2004, I think) that also introduced the (then) new 5 speed gear box. It was built on the same old fashioned chassis as their other iron barreled models and was mechanically identical to them more or less. I say more or less because over the years,RE was transitioning away from whitworth fasteners and going metric and also royally screwing with the crank case breather in the name of emissions compliance. There was no pin striping on the tank or fenders and the forks had rubber gaiters. Otherwise they were pretty much the same bikes.
So to sum it up, when you buy spares like gaskets and oil filters, chains and sprockets and cables and such,  you have an IRON BARREL (say it proudly!). NField Gear (our host) refers to them now as "Legacy" models. Hitchcock's has a handy window on each of their products that will tell you immediately if the item fits your bike.
Oh, and another cool thing, when someone admires your bike and asks where they might perhaps get one, you can then smile ruefully and say, "they don't make 'em anymore".
Chuck.

[tooseevee]

    Like others have already said, I, too, find it very easy to feel when the switch hits "neutral" (off) if pushed easily to the center. No problem. A lot of the "problems" some people seem to have are just finesse problems or "getting used to" problems.

    But, yes. The little light could be brighter. I forget to use the blinkers most of the time; I'm just so used to sticking my arm out. Stubborn dinosaur.

     You got yerself a nice Iron Head there, pilgrim.

[young gun]

Whoa, so I inadvertently bought the real deal?! Lol, I was looking at the new UCE versions but I couldn't find any that fitted my budget, when I saw this lady going for a good price I went for it. Tbh I find the Der versions of this bike quite a bit more atteactive that the newer ones! The older ones seem a little more honest. Are there any concessions to this motor? I don't intend on riding her hard but I had to use the freeway to get her home and I was hitting about 100 - 110 (65 - 70mph). I had no choice, our freeways are pretty fast in SA. You drive slow and you die.

Barenekd is this what I am looking for? http://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/BA9S-W4-/ ?

And chuck, my bike will then be what Hitchcock's refers to as the Electric Start? Or the Bullet (IND MKT). They have:

Bullet (export)
Bullet (ind mkt)
Bullet Redditch
Electric Start
Sixty 5
Electra X
Thunderbird
Electra efi
Classic efi
B5 efi

[young gun]

Oh and 2 more questions, what is that thing thats plugged into my exhaust pipe at the top of the cylinder head and I have a lonesome pipe sticking out of my carb that just seems to dangle, there doesn't seem anywhere it can plugged into? is this some kind of overflow pipe?

[tooseevee]

Oh and 2 more questions, what is that thing thats plugged into my exhaust pipe at the top of the cylinder head and I have a lonesome pipe sticking out of my carb that just seems to dangle, there doesn't seem anywhere it can plugged into? is this some kind of overflow pipe?

            That thing that's plugged into your header pipe is part of the Pulse Air system for the catalytic converter (emissions control) in that giant silencer. It's part of why the damn thing gets hot enough to melt lead.

             Many of us have removed all the emissions stuff & modified our intakes, exhausts & carburetors to help the engines run better, but you need to read way more about these bikes & get a couple of manuals & absorb them before you're ready to do that. You must understand everything before you start changing things.

             You have a different carb than I have so I can't tell you where that hose goes plus you don't describe it well enough. Does it point down? Is it clear or black? 

[Chuck D]

Whoa, so I inadvertently bought the real deal?! Lol, I was looking at the new UCE versions but I couldn't find any that fitted my budget, when I saw this lady going for a good price I went for it. Tbh I find the Der versions of this bike quite a bit more atteactive that the newer ones! The older ones seem a little more honest. Are there any concessions to this motor? I don't intend on riding her hard but I had to use the freeway to get her home and I was hitting about 100 - 110 (65 - 70mph). I had no choice, our freeways are pretty fast in SA. You drive slow and you die.

Barenekd is this what I am looking for? http://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/BA9S-W4-/ ?

And chuck, my bike will then be what Hitchcock's refers to as the Electric Start? Or the Bullet (IND MKT). They have:

Bullet (export)
Bullet (ind mkt)
Bullet Redditch
Electric Start
Sixty 5
Electra X
Thunderbird
Electra efi
Classic efi
B5 efi

"Bullet(export)". That's right, the real deal.
So much so that they are permitted in vintage class racing. But before you get too excited, the Bullet race bikes are heavily modded with high quality upgrades to the main bearings, crank, piston, valve train, oiling system, cam timing and other stuff carefully assembled by experienced engine tuners (not me ).
What most new owners in your position do is start by simply freeing up the intake and exhaust by swapping them for freer flowing items and then tuning the carburetor to suit. This will perk up the performance noticeably and you can leave it at that. Another cost effective upgrade would come when it's time to change tires. The stock Avon "speedmasters" are a throwback design that are really only good for show in my opinion. Avon also makes the "Roadrider (AM26) and the Roadrunner(AM20) in vintage (19") sizes. A vast improvement in handling over stock. The Dunlop K70's are also highly regarded by those in the know although I have no personal experience with them.
Remember though, unless you make the engine upgrades I mentioned earlier, it can't handle sustained high speed (over 65mph) for long. That's not a fault, it just wasn't designed for that. For one thing, it can't handle the heat generated by those speeds so a seizure becomes likely. Stick to back roads. Both you and the bike will live longer.
Those things on the carb and the header pipe are just some emissions junk that can be removed along with any of its plumbing as long as you plug up the holes. Everyone takes them off.
As Tooseevee said, get the manuals (Snidal's is really good) and read up. This will help get you into the Bullet frame of mind. And god help you from there.
Chuck.

[young gun]

You have a different carb than I have so I can't tell you where that hose goes plus you don't describe it well enough. Does it point down? Is it clear or black?

tooseevee its just a normal clear pipe, the same one they use on the rest of the bike. I'll take a pic in a bit and post it up.

Remember though, unless you make the engine upgrades I mentioned earlier, it can't handle sustained high speed (over 65mph) for long. That's not a fault, it just wasn't designed for that. For one thing, it can't handle the heat generated by those speeds so a seizure becomes likely. Stick to back roads. Both you and the bike will live longer.

How long is long? Unfortunately I really didnt want to make my second ride on the bike on the freeway but I had no choice. Strangely after about 30 minutes or so the engine performance noticeably improved and then I got to an offramp where I could continue my trip on the back road. I road it today and it seemed fine so I dont thnk any damage was incurred.

On my list of things to do:

1.) Sort the pipe out. I wasnt sure if there was a catalytic converter in there? I thought that only came with the AVL and UCE motors? Any advice for how to remove it? I'm sure there will be a few threads on the board that will help me? Or would it just be easier to replace the silencer?

2.) Sort out the air filter. Either replace the standard witha K&N or chuck that out and replace it all with a cone type.

3.) Replace the standard carb with an Amal.

4.) Get some leather panniers

5.) Replace the tyres once they have worn with something a little stickier.

Does the PAV system hinder performance at all? From what i have read its a 50/50 thing? some say yes, other say no.

And thats it really. Chuck you were right about the indicator, push it in and it cancels. I dont know if that is standard on bikes now, but this is the 1st one I have ridden in nearly 20 years

[Chuck D]

Young gun,
Short of tearing your engine apart there's no way too be 100 percent sure of anything. But don't panic, I was merely pointing out that no stock engine is meant to be ridden flat out for any length of time. I've been guilty of exactly the same thing on numerous occasions and gotten away with it. Make a habit of it though and you are undoubtedly decreasing the life span of your engine.
About the exhaust. Inside the header pipe is a welded in place smaller diameter tube that can be cut out and some folks here have even cut the muffler in half, removed the labyrinth within and put the halves back together with about a foot of center section removed. This will free up the exhaust and improve the appearance. Or you could just replace with ready made new items. Up to you.
As for the air filter, There is a mod for the stock airbox which switches the stock (very restrictive) air filter for a K&N if you want to keep the stock appearance. Do a search on this sight. I didn't do it but it looks pretty simple. Or, and I couldn't recommend this more highly, Ace Performance makes the "Air Canister" which has the virtues of a traditional appearance and a cheap and replaceable paper air filter that flows very well. This is what I use. In any case, you should avoid the pod filters because they remove the support to the carb on that side which among other bad things, subjects the carb to excessive vibration, negatively affecting the units performance and longevity. I tried it that way for a while because it looked sorta cool but it also kinda sucked.
There's nothing wrong with the stock "Mikarb" as long as it's set up right. If you do all of these other mods you will need a selection of richer jets to get it tuned correctly. If I were on a budget, I wouldn't waste money there.
Chuck.

[young gun]

In any case, you should avoid the pod filters because they remove the support to the carb on that side which among other bad things, subjects the carb to excessive vibration, negatively affecting the units performance and longevity.

Thanks for the advice! I checked out the Air Fireball mod awhile back, very nice!

[tooseevee]

Young gun,
In any case, you should avoid the pod filters because they remove the support to the carb on that side which among other bad things, subjects the carb to excessive vibration, negatively affecting the units performance and longevity. I tried it that way for a while because it looked sorta cool but it also kinda sucked.

Chuck.

           But there are thousands of bikes out there which have their carburetors supported only at the head. These little carbs weigh hardly anything.

[Chuck D]

           But there are thousands of bikes out there which have their carburetors supported only at the head. These little carbs weigh hardly anything.

This is also true.

[young gun]

Does Ace Perfotmance have a website? Can't seem to find anything but references in blogs and forums?

[Chuck D]

Here ya go.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/AcePerformanceBullets/

[barenekd]

Barenekd is this what I am looking for? http://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/BA9S-W4-/ ?
And chuck, my bike will then be what Hitchcock's refers to as the Electric Start? Or the Bullet (IND MKT).

Sorry so late. That is the right bulb. Don't worry about the vintage part. No one will know what you  have in there unless they are very familiar with the bike.
Yours is the ES model.
As for speed, I wouldn't be very inclined to approve 65-70 mph cruising speeds with the iron barrel bikes. About 55 is closer to reality. There are some major differences between the Iron Barrels and UCE. All of them equate to living at higher speeds. HTe UCEs have sn oil pump with about a 4 or 5 time increase in flow. They have roller bearings in the road as opposed a floating bushing in the iron barrel (Which really should've gotten the increased capacity oil pump. The iron barrel engine is the basic 1950's engine. Little improvement in anything since then! So, YAY! You got a genuine classic motorcycle and BOO, don't try to run with the new guys!
The real difference is that you get to remember what the good old days were really like. The guys who get the new UCEs get to think about all those things they don't have to do now! But since most of the hoi polloi doesn't know the difference, they get the same, or nearly, the same reverence!
My first RE was very close to being a Sixty-5 that a good buddy of mine had. He offered it to me for $1000 in '97. It had about 150 miles on it, but I either had to ship it from Oklahoma or go back there and ride an unbroken in RE iron barrel 1500 miles back to CA from there. having just gotten rid of a '62 Matchless/Norton because I got tired of remembering what the good old days were really like,  I, very reluctantly, turned it down. He gave it to his nephew and it is apparently sitting out here in storage waiting for him to come back for Afghanistan, or was, he should be back by now, I guess!
Bare
Bare