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Author Topic: 03 RH Shift  (Read 555 times)

Darvin Jahnke

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03 RH Shift
« on: March 06, 2013, 02:07:19 PM »
I saw a picture of an 03 with RH shift and it appears as though the shift lever attaches in the same area as the kick start lever. How does this work? A hollow shaft with a smaller shaft inside? On mine there is a boss on the transmission case that the kick start shaft comes out of and the lever fits tight to the outer edge of this boss,there doesn't appear to be room for anything else. Mine is an 03 left shift. What all is involved in converting to right shift? Thanks

ace.cafe

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Re: 03 RH Shift
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2013, 02:29:55 PM »
You buy the kit, which has about 10 of the different required transmission and shifter parts, along with the brake lever kit for the other side, and then spend an afternoon putting it all on.
Probably somewhere around
$200-$250 for the kit.
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ERC

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Re: 03 RH Shift
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2013, 03:02:26 PM »
The kit comes with the outer cases hollow shaft everything you need to do it. The price is $300.00 from Hitchcocks right now.  ERC
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mrunderhill1975a

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Re: 03 RH Shift
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2013, 10:31:02 PM »
If you choose to make this modification, it helps if you have access to a person who has done the modification previously.  As for me, it took substantially more than 8 hours, as I found that there is some variation of the dimensions of the after market parts. Perhaps I received the kit for a 350 rather than the 500, I don't know.  However,  on my kit (Silking from India in a Royal Enfield Package) there was a discrepancy in the depth or length of the bushing for the bell-crank.  As a result, the bellcrank   did not extend far enough into the inside of the gearbox.  This resulted in excessive slop and it being nearly impossible to get the shifter ratchet adjusted so that it wouldn't give false neutrals.  Finally, after about 2 months of fiddling, someone on this board (who I still owe a case of beer) suggested I install a few washers (spacers) on the bell crank shaft and add spacers to the detent plunger nut. This made all the difference, I can now get it into the correct gear first try.
It helped to have the Snidal manual, however, Snidal did not mention any fitment problem with aftermarket parts.  If you need any long distance advice, post it to this board.

Hurricane

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Re: 03 RH Shift
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2013, 04:46:43 PM »
I have struggled for quite a while (more than 2 months I am embarrassed to say) to get a successful LH to RH shift conversion kit going and have repeatedly failed. This latest thread has gotten close to my problem.  I have a 2000 4-speed with 3 neutrals, giving me 1-N-2-N-3-N-4. The turning of the bellcrank square shaft is rather stiff but you can do it with a wrench, and all 4 gears are present. The ratchet mechanism though has no chance to turning the bellcrank. Maybe it might turn it one position and then anything else is just a bunch of monkey motion doing nothing. In frustration, I even concocted an idea to install a gear shift lever right on the bellcrank shaft. Anyway...
I noticed last night that a had a lot of bellcrank endplay as discussed. You can pull it out and push it in at least 1/4", maybe more. You are suggesting to pull the inner cover and shim the bellcrank to give minimal endplay of the square bellcrank shaft ?
Thanks,
Hurricane

mrunderhill1975a

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Re: 03 RH Shift
« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2013, 06:33:07 PM »
"I noticed last night that a had a lot of bellcrank endplay as discussed. You can pull it out and push it in at least 1/4", maybe more. You are suggesting to pull the inner cover and shim the bellcrank to give minimal endplay of the square bellcrank shaft ?Thanks,
Hurricane"
Yes, I am suggesting you pull the inner cover and shim the bellcrank to reduce the endplay (you will need some endplay however). Multiple neutrals was the same symptom I had. The shims (washers I used )were placed on the bell crank shaft such that the washers were between the bell crank (spoon end portion) and the Inner cover.  See photo below from the hitchock tech section.  You will have to experiment with the number of shims/washers that works best. 
While you are in there, check to see that your detent plunger is not in too deep and preventing movement of the shift mechanism.  If the detent plunger is screwed in too far (too tight) it would not easily slip between the notches on the shifter. If this is the case,add spacers to the detent plunger nut such that it doesn't go in excessively deep.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2013, 10:15:36 PM by mrunderhill1975a »

mrrstr

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Re: 03 RH Shift
« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2013, 12:06:44 PM »
Someone said the kit has all you need to do the RHS shift mod, but don't you need to buy the sealed bearing kit as well (assuming you want to use 90w)?

The Garbone

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Re: 03 RH Shift
« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2013, 09:43:55 PM »
I put sealed in when I did mine and switched over to 90w.   The sealed bearings are a good idea just for the improved quality.  The 90w, well, it will leak out over time even with the sealed bearings, breather hole etc, a good grease would probably do just as well.
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curtisbelford

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Re: 03 RH Shift
« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2013, 04:03:28 AM »
I just spent $300.00 on a R/H shift for my 99. Should get it any day.