HPRE

Menu

Members Rides

My new G5, bone stock at this point.


in
Members Rides

Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
November 28, 2014, 07:21:47 PM

Login with username, password and session length

 

Author Topic: My Royal Enfield  (Read 4253 times)

jedaks

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 208
  • Karma: 0
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #45 on: July 07, 2013, 11:04:58 PM »
Yeah I was hoping to replace the exhaust for the shorter version but my budget has had to be spent on other things :)

I have heard about drilling out the core of the bazooka muffler and just having it straight through. Maybe others can advise otherwise but it could be a cheap way to get some performance without spending much money.

High On Octane

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 4189
  • Karma: 0
  • Go Fast & Look Good Doing It
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #46 on: July 08, 2013, 12:46:12 AM »
I have heard about drilling out the core of the bazooka muffler and just having it straight through. Maybe others can advise otherwise but it could be a cheap way to get some performance without spending much money.


That could improve the performance some, but it's still going to weigh 1800 pounds.  Roughly.  ;)

Scottie
Scottie J
Denver, CO

1958 Enfield/Indian Trailblazer

young gun

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 162
  • Karma: 0
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #47 on: July 08, 2013, 04:15:25 AM »
I would rather just wait and do it properly. I've looked up the drilling and modding the original pipe but its messy and in my opinion spoils the looks once its done. To each his own but I'd rather just wait till budget allows ;)

young gun

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 162
  • Karma: 0
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #48 on: December 01, 2013, 04:40:21 PM »
Been a bit quiet on the board but I've had a rollercoaster of a year. So apologies but it is what it is :)

I've had some fun with the bike lately. The vibrations have managed to break my rear exhaust bracket, front and center mudguard stay and my license disc holder. To be fair I have a feeling I purchased the bike with the center stay on the mudguard already broken because now that I've purchased more substantional center stays from Hitchcocks, the mudguard barely vibrates at all. I've replaced a the parts and at the same time decided to buy some extras, new grommets etc.

Anyways that's not what the post is about. About a week ago I heard a different racket coming from the top of the motor and I assumed that it was the valve pushrods that needed to be adjusted. So I warmed the bike up and set the bike at TDC, took off the inspection cover and found the inlet pushrod adjuster was tight and the exhaust spun freely albeit with a slight bit of play. A bit concerned since I knew that both adjuster should spin freely, I pulled down the kick start down to turn the engine and then I found the opposite to happen? The inlet spun freely and the exhaust was tight? Now I get why this is happening, obviously pushrods are under pressure at certain parts of the 4 stroke cycle. So I set the pushrod adjusters to eliminate play but only when I could get them to spin freely i.e. Not at TDC. Is this ok?! I rode the bike and the clatter is gone so I'm assuming it's fine but I would like to check to be sure as this procedure doesn't match the Snidal manual or some of the vids I've seen on youtube.

Here's a new pic of the bike as well :)

« Last Edit: December 01, 2013, 04:49:31 PM by young gun »

ERC

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1564
  • Karma: 0
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #49 on: December 01, 2013, 05:14:00 PM »
Unless you have a wierd cam or somethings amiss. they should both be loose at TDC.   ERC
2-57 Apaches, 2-57 Trailblazers, 60 Chief, 65 Interceptor, 2004 Bullet, 612 Bullet chopped.

Blltrdr

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1779
  • Karma: 0
  • cycle-delic music
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #50 on: December 01, 2013, 05:14:33 PM »
Since you have the Snidal manual you can try checking the valves with the motor running as he explains in the valve adjustment chapter. This will give you the answer you are looking for.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII
1977 Yamaha XS 360-2D (Cafe Project)

Chuck D

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 912
  • Karma: 0
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #51 on: December 01, 2013, 05:21:22 PM »
Hey Young Gun,
You need to set the valve lash with the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. That is, with both valves closed. This means that the lifters directly below the push rod adjusters will BOTH be at their lowest points. You can observe this for yourself as you are kicking through. So if you picture this, the lifters below are exerting very little upward pressure on the push rod and the top of the push rod is resting only lightly against the rocker arm up above.
This is, with a cold engine, when you do your checking and or adjusting.
You want there to be no discernable up and down play while still being able to turn the push rod (not necessarily "spin") with your thumb and index finger. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries.
By the way I find it helpful to take out the center cover stud when I do this.
If you did this correctly, the valve train IS SUPPOSED TO CLATTER! That is in its nature. I'd start worrying when things got to quiet!
Hope this helps.
Chuck.
« Last Edit: December 01, 2013, 05:24:35 PM by Chuck D »
2006 Bullet Sixty-5 w/ Ace "Fireball 535" Kit (#10)
Ace "GP" head in the works.
Featherbed frame conversion underway.

'76 Honda CB550Four K(sold)


"What's so funny 'bout peace, love, and understandin'?"

AgentX

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1175
  • Karma: 0
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #52 on: December 01, 2013, 05:38:14 PM »
Ace recommends setting the valves with the engine stone-cold.  His reasoning, as I recall, is that setting the valves warm will result in dangerous tightness when the engine is cold.

I know the idea of a warm engine is to set the valves under the same conditions under which the engine will run, but I trust Ace's instructions above all others.  And it makes sense to me that if the bike has to warm up every time you start it, you're abusing the hell out of your valves until they get to operating temp if they're not set to be properly adjusted when cold.  No bueno.

ace.cafe

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 8712
  • Karma: 0
  • World leaders in racing or performance Bullets
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #53 on: December 01, 2013, 05:53:06 PM »
The correct way to adjust the valve lash is with a cold engine at TDC on the compression stroke.

 The reason is the engine is designed to run with .012" hot lash, and it "grows" to this lash as the engine warms up and the lash clearance expands. If you adjust lash hot, then it's too tight when cold, and it holds the valves off the seats until the engine warms up. This burns the valves.

This is why the manual says to do it cold.
Home of the ACE Fireball 535 Bullet,  Ace GP Hi-Lift Roller Rocker Head . Pistons, cams, etc. Highest performance Bullet engine mods available .  AVL mods. Redditch 700/750 Twin mods. UCE kit soon.

Please visit my new website:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/AcePerformanceBullets/info

young gun

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 162
  • Karma: 0
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #54 on: December 01, 2013, 06:42:41 PM »
Ok just checked it cold and it's perfect, well to my untrained eyes at least :)

Thanks Chuck D for  the TDC explanation, it's exactly what I needed to know :) thanks guys!
« Last Edit: December 01, 2013, 06:49:41 PM by young gun »

young gun

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 162
  • Karma: 0
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #55 on: June 28, 2014, 06:54:47 AM »
Hiya all, it's been forever since I've posted here. Been moving house and all. The bike is still running well and there have been a few minor cosmetic changes so here's a few new pics. :)

For the sharp eye, I've replaced the mirrors, the bar end mirrors are way more functional as they don't vibrate at all and I've replaced all the indicators for An LED version.

What still needs to be done is replacing the tail stop unit, that should be arriving shortly and I need to replace the indicator light in the speedometer unit with and LED unit with a diode circuit to stop bleed into the system.

Oh and the front mudguard is off :( I've once again broken the center stays (the reinforced Hitchcock version!) so I'm just waiting for replacements to arrive. Oh and the sprag clutch is out, the starter motor is still on the bike, also waiting for the plug to arrive. It's been just over a year since I bought this bike and I've racked up 4000km's! Not bad when you consider I only work 8 km's from home :)


High On Octane

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 4189
  • Karma: 0
  • Go Fast & Look Good Doing It
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #56 on: June 28, 2014, 01:18:06 PM »
Looking Good!     8)

Question for you Young Gun.......  Do you notice any more instability or speed wobbles with the front fender off of the bike as opposed to when it used to be installed?
Scottie J
Denver, CO

1958 Enfield/Indian Trailblazer

flyboy

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 117
  • Karma: 0
  • Keepin the shiney side up
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #57 on: June 28, 2014, 01:24:28 PM »
Hey there Young Gun. I haven't read the entire post...but what year is your ride? I notice the 5spd gear box and wondering if that was a mod you did or PO did? Or, are you in the 5spd year range?

Looks good...I like the look of the front mudguard off!

Get rid of that hideous, overweight silencer. Free flow, with the Ace canister will surprise you of the added performance...definately noticable. If its too loud, get one of those $10 bolt-in baffles.

young gun

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 162
  • Karma: 0
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #58 on: June 28, 2014, 02:33:27 PM »
@High On Octane. Not at all but then to be fair I'm having an issue with the brakes that I've had for day one, when the front brakes are operated over 80km there's a wobble. I can't figure it out. Problem with no front mudguard is that any puddle is potentially hazardous. Water sprays straight in your face so I really don't recommend it.

@flyboy. I have Ace's canister (which was a great improvement, can only give props to this add on, I would say it's a necessity) but with me living in South Africa, it makes importing pipes VERY expensive, especially if it's from the states. For now I can live with it but it is on my list :) I'm pretty sure the performance will improve greatly!

The bike is a 2006 Sixty5, so it came as is :)

baird4444

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 2109
  • Karma: 0
  • 2003 ES 500... 38,416 miles, I'm done
Re: My Royal Enfield
« Reply #59 on: June 28, 2014, 03:24:36 PM »
"Oh and the front mudguard is off :( I've once again broken the center stays (the reinforced Hitchcock version!) "

your fender stays breaking is related to the front brake problem. When the shoes do not contact as a pair it causes a slight twist to the forks breaking the stays....   I made my own out of 3/4" flat iron....
        - Mike
"You can't drink all day if you don't start in the morning!! "
        -Cody Baird
'My dear you are ugly,
 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
 - Winston Churchill