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Author Topic: Wiring lights sans AC regulator  (Read 320 times)

agram

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Wiring lights sans AC regulator
« on: April 23, 2013, 09:39:38 AM »
I've almost got my C5 on the road using a carb conversion (using a TCI instead of ECU) and a wiring loom from an '05 electric start Bullet (hence posting in this section of the forums) and I'm using the stock C5 three phase reg/rec.
The older wiring loom is a bit better for this bike, as I don't need all the millions of sensor wires and I had this spare.
As far as I know, I shouldn't be using the AC regulator with this setup, so should I just be returning the orange and yellow wires normally used for the AC reg to the wiring loom after the reg/rec? Orange negative and yellow positive?
Should I in fact be using the AC regulator?

I suppose I'm effectively turning this wiring into the same as a late model AVL, and while it'd probably be best to just get an AVL loom, I doubt I could afford one for a while.

Any help would be appreciated!


D the D

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Re: Wiring lights sans AC regulator
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2013, 04:06:48 PM »
Doesn't the '05 wiring have an AC headlight or did you mod that to DC?
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH

Arizoni

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Re: Wiring lights sans AC regulator
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2013, 10:23:49 PM »
I think he said 'C5" rather than "05" and the C5's headlight runs off of the DC power.
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary

D the D

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Re: Wiring lights sans AC regulator
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2013, 12:12:40 AM »
Don't take this as flip, I really would like to know.  My confusion comes because you state you're using an '05 ES wiring harness which is designed for an AC Regulator, AC Headlight, and Points to rewire a C5.  When you say TCI Unit, some refer to the Boyer and OEM Point replacer as TCI or the late model Mag switched one.  Which unit?  I looked at the wiring diagrams and don't see a need to leave the AC Regulator wiring in the harness.
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH

ERC

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Re: Wiring lights sans AC regulator
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2013, 01:46:54 AM »
D@D your correct I don't understand what he means.  ERC
2-57 Apaches, 2-57 Trailblazers, 60 Chief, 65 Interceptor, 2004 Bullet, 612 Bullet chopped.

agram

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Re: Wiring lights sans AC regulator
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2013, 09:30:11 AM »
Gosh, it is confusing isn't it?

It's a C5, with a carb conversion. So the ECU isn't needed, but is replaced with an AVL Electra - style TCI box. This leaves the C5 wiring with a huge amount of connectors I don't need and just add bulk, and cutting certain wires off etc is just messy. So I had an '05 electric start wiring loom sitting about, and I've wired everything but the light up on that. It didn't take many changes, it's much cleaner, and the bike runs (Beautifully with a 535 barrel and hotter valves  ;) ).

I've used the stock C5 3 phase reg/rec to suit the alternator. I'm not using an AC headlight, and am wondering what to do about the wires normally going to the AC regulator in order to power the headlight. Orange to negative and yellow to positive? Or have I got this all wrong?

Or is it simpler to ask how one would do a DC headlight conversion on a '05 Bullet ES with a 3 phase rec/rec and alternator?

fdx

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Re: Wiring lights sans AC regulator
« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2013, 11:39:06 AM »
I'll join the question.
I'm rewireing my bullet (its 01 classic no ES)
What I need (and what could be useful for agram (I think) is diagram of left hand lights switch. What colors of wires are going in/out and which ones are connected in certain position of switches.

I changed wiring a bit in my bike - rear light, and pilots are on together with ignition (battery) - on/off by ignition switch - so I wont leave bike with ignition on - I'll see lights which will remind me to take out keys. Now the plan is that left hand side switch will turn on small bulb in headlamp on first position, and to  turn on main bulb in second position - then switch betwean full beam and deep light is with second switch on left. 
but my bullet is not a C5 its 01 classic and I left AC wiring for headlamp as I have very small battery - just enough for ignition and lights (except headlight)

So if anyone has a connection diagram for lights swich (left side of bike) Thank you for posting.

Agram - if all alternator wires are going to regulator -  you need to stay with DC power for headlight, and if C5 is already all DC just do the same way as original wiring.
Maybe this would help:  http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,3064.0/all.html

diagram of all DC wiring (classic model but shows idea)
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3064.0;attach=3008;image
« Last Edit: April 24, 2013, 11:56:49 AM by fdx »
I have Bullet in my head...

fdx

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Re: Wiring lights sans AC regulator
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2013, 12:08:23 PM »
One more thing to ask...
Is the amber wire that is going from alternator to AC regulator and to headlamp connected to earthing of DC?
I was going through cables on my old harness and seems to be like that - amber is connected to black - negative inside headlamp (asking just to be sure thats the way it is before I blow up something...)
I have Bullet in my head...

agram

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Re: Wiring lights sans AC regulator
« Reply #8 on: April 24, 2013, 12:10:58 PM »
Fdx,

This might help you. Copied from a post on Aussie Enfields:

Quote
Fitting late model switches
Oct 26th, 2012 at 11:41am Mark & Quote Quote
Just a bit of info for anyone wanting to fit late model switches to earlier bikes. These colours are from the later switches
   Left hand switch
Yellow power in from ameter
Yellow/red power from headlight switch
Blue high beam
Green low beam
White flasher can
Black/white left blinker
Black/green right blinker
Purple horn
Black earth

  Right hand switch
If running headlights off battery yellow/red and red/white joined from ameter
Yellow power out from headlight switch (join to yellow from right hand switch block
Grey park/speedo lights
Red/black and black/red kill switch.
remaining 2 wires are not needed as they are for the starter switch.
At least this is a starting point for anybody wanting to replace the old type switches.
 

« Last Edit: April 24, 2013, 12:15:55 PM by agram »