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Author Topic: Oil  (Read 5918 times)

ZoomZoom

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Oil
« on: August 02, 2007, 06:43:04 AM »
I just recently bought an 05 Bullet w/ only 400 miles.  I want to do an oil change soon...  I know the battle over not using automotive oil in motorcycles; i also know people who do it all the time w/ no apparent damage.

What readily available oil is recommended for these bikes?  Unfortunately, I live kind of in the middle of nowhere w/ very few mc dealers around.  I can't believe all across India, Bullet owners are using fancy oils...

So what's the consensus?

Thanks Y'all

baird4444

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Re: Oil
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2007, 07:40:17 AM »
I've been using the Castrol 20-50 in the white bottle for over 20,000 miles. It does have the
 -SJ- designation on the back...
Once broke in, I ad just a little Lucas oil fortifier...
"IT WORKS FOR ME"  - Mike
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'My dear you are ugly,
 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
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deejay

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Re: Oil
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2007, 08:03:13 AM »
I use Castrol 20-50

Spitting Bull

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Re: Oil
« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2007, 08:29:47 AM »
The recommended lubricant is a 20w50 mineral oil, with changes every 500 miles for the first 2000 miles and then at every 2000 miles thereafter.

Some people report good results using synthetic oil after the initial 2000 mile running-in period.

I buy the cheapest 20w50 oil I can get and change it often.  Some people buy vastly more expensive oil and say they can change it less often so the cost is the same.

You pays yer money and you takes yer choice!

Tom
One cylinder is enough for anyone.

dewjantim

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Re: Oil
« Reply #4 on: August 02, 2007, 09:40:43 AM »
Castrol 20w50, cheap and easy to get. Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!

HRAB

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Re: Oil
« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2007, 11:19:35 AM »
Remember, the bike was engineered when oils were nowhere near the quality they are today.
BMWMOA www.bmwmoa.com
Iron Butt Association www.ironbutt.com/about/default.cfm
(Formerly) CRA# 118N www.cra-mn.com (I got smarter in old age)

tex

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Re: Oil
« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2007, 04:18:33 PM »
Hey Z-Z,

I'm with Mike on this one. Along with Castrol 20w-50, I like to give mine a shot of Lucas
oif fortifier now and again, when the level is getting a little low. Sure helps to keep the valves quiet. I try to change oil and filter around 1200-1500 miles, which may be a little
too short on the intervals, but I figure too soon rather than too late. I have a 2000 Bullet
with a little over 13K miles and no problems relating to type or useage of engine oil. A
case of 20W-50 Castrol will last a long time. Good oil, good insurance.

Tex

c1skout

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Re: Oil
« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2007, 09:05:36 PM »
I've run 20-50 Pennzoil in all my motorcycles for years.

scoTTy

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Re: Oil
« Reply #8 on: August 02, 2007, 11:22:17 PM »
i've an electra, calls for 15 /40  ____SHELL makes that oil..  untill the warranity is over i will use that..15/40 is also what my tractor requires.. I promise I won't try to hook up a plow on my Enfield ;D

ZoomZoom

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Re: Oil
« Reply #9 on: August 03, 2007, 11:56:52 AM »
Thanks y'all!  Does anyone use Marvel Mystery Oil?  Is that similar to Lucas Additive?  When I used to have an old Beemer everyone recommended a dash in the oil, a dash in the gas tank... a little dab everywhere it seemed.  And it seemed to work well...

RagMan

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Re: Oil
« Reply #10 on: August 03, 2007, 02:29:22 PM »
I use the MMO - I suppose it works..  not similar to the Lucas additive that I have used in the past.
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
''99 Classic Bullet. '05 Ural Tourist sidecar rig, converted to 2wd. '05 Harley Davidson Sportster.
Jefferson County, WA

dewjantim

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Re: Oil
« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2007, 12:13:34 PM »
Thanks y'all!  Does anyone use Marvel Mystery Oil?  Is that similar to Lucas Additive?  When I used to have an old Beemer everyone recommended a dash in the oil, a dash in the gas tank... a little dab everywhere it seemed.  And it seemed to work well...
Marvel Mystery Oil, the only approved gas additive of the FAA. Must be good if those guys use it in their airplanes. Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!

gapl53

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Re: Oil
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2007, 11:46:13 AM »
Been using Marvel Mystery Oil for a long time, great stuff. A airplane mechanic recommended it to my father in the early 50's. Both of us have used it since then with great results in all our internal combustion engines. Just for an idea it takes 30 gallons of an assortment of grades to change oil around my place, there are no heavy equipment or commercial type vehicles and only one personal vehicle besides my two motorcycles. But the one constant is Marvel Mystery Oil
And yes, at that time it was the only additive to be recommended by the FAA, or whatever it was called way back then.

GOOD STUFF MAYNERD!

Thumper

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Re: Oil
« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2007, 12:12:00 PM »
Thanks y'all!  Does anyone use Marvel Mystery Oil?  Is that similar to Lucas Additive?  When I used to have an old Beemer everyone recommended a dash in the oil, a dash in the gas tank... a little dab everywhere it seemed.  And it seemed to work well...

It's sold as a cleanser. Google it and you'll see proponents and doubters alike.

A good example of both can be found in http://skepdic.com/slick50.html  and the follow-up responses.

Matt

mbevo1

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Re: Oil
« Reply #14 on: August 16, 2007, 09:25:13 AM »
I've used Castrol 20-50W during the first 3500 miles on my '06 Classic - but the case is running low.  I've seen the disussions on additives (or negetives) in the lastest oil specs and the effects on old engines... happened to see a gent at Autozone or Pep Boys (don't recall which it was)  with a gallon jug of Castrol 20-50W 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil... haven't checked it out, yet, but it may be Castrol is making a real effort to make something usable for old motors.  Even if it's just a different label, I'll probably switch 'cause I'd rather use a gallon jug than have several half-empty quarts... I changed the oil (and filter) at 250, 500, 1000, and 2000 miles, and haven't used two whole quarts yet!  Guess the only way to completely drain the motor is to remove the timing-side case, and that seems a little extreme to me...

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan
'07 Classic - Stumpy
'10 C5 Military - Sherman

justin_o_guy

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Re: Oil
« Reply #15 on: August 16, 2007, 02:28:42 PM »
Rotella T 15 W 40 costs about $9.00 a gallon at Wally Mart. I am running it in the Suzuki 650 thumper. I can't say it's creating any bad results. I don't see it running low as fast as when I was using Suziki oil that cost almost $4.00 a quart. This engine was designed about 20 yeaRS ago, when oil was mostly yak fat rendered in a cast iron pot in a Voo Doo masters back yard. The RE is an old design, too. I expect the metalurgy has improved over the years & with the modern oils & improved manufacturing processes, the longevity will be improved, even IF we dont run in circles fretting over Which is the BEST slickum for my Baaabeeee. IF I was gonna go hog wild I would look closely at Royal Purple. The testimony from the guy who installed the satellite internet was, he put it in his crankcase, tranny & differential on his Biggo Dodge Ram & picked up 2 MPG. The only way it can increase MPG is to decrease friction & with decreased friction, decreased wear follows suit. Now, the question is, with the added expense of the Super Slickums out there & the riding we do, will we ever recoup the costs of the oil in avoided maintenace?

Trapper

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Re: Oil
« Reply #16 on: August 19, 2007, 09:10:07 PM »
I have an '02 500ES that I bought new. The original dealer started it with synthetic and I have kept it that way(Mobil 1 15w50) .The beast currently has 11,000 miles on it. It is my daily commuter all year 'round to work (I ride it about 200 days a year, winter too). So it is mostly short trips in 100 degree down to 12 degree weather. No problems so far with lubrication.

I am continually amazed at the ruggedness of the design. A great machine.

justin_o_guy

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Re: Oil
« Reply #17 on: August 20, 2007, 04:43:13 AM »
You pretty rugged yourself riding at 12*. I hope nobody spits in the street. You run over it you may slip down. Well, hinda an exageration, but, be careful. I have had several bad experiences with ice,( more than once it was in my glass, with a strong beverage)  none on a motorcycle, but none were pain free either.

FiferWD

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Re: Oil
« Reply #18 on: August 21, 2007, 03:19:16 PM »
I changed the oil (and filter) at 250, 500, 1000, and 2000 miles, and haven't used two whole quarts yet!  Guess the only way to completely drain the motor is to remove the timing-side case, and that seems a little extreme to me...

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan

To drain the timing chest, remove the quill bolt.  A whole buncha oil will come out!

I use a large plastic coffee can for a drain pan. Folgers is my favourite oil changing vessel. It fits just right when the Bullet is on its center stand, and when its full I just take it to the recycling center.
Yrs,
Bill

Trapper

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Re: Oil
« Reply #19 on: August 21, 2007, 04:27:54 PM »
You pretty rugged yourself riding at 12*. I hope nobody spits in the street. You run over it you may slip down. Well, hinda an exageration, but, be careful. I have had several bad experiences with ice,( more than once it was in my glass, with a strong beverage)  none on a motorcycle, but none were pain free either.

Actually, I did take a spill last February - a pot hole of ice covert with layer of dirt. Went down at about 30-35 mph. Jacket was scuffed, helmet was scratched, and my pride suffered a bit. The bike just got a few scratches on the crash bar and pannier braces. Still made it to work on time!

RagMan

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Re: Oil
« Reply #20 on: August 21, 2007, 05:00:37 PM »
Do you find that having a crash bar is an advantage?  would not having it have caused you injury do you think. I have not decided if I want bars or not.  The previous owner had bars, the dealer took them off.
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
''99 Classic Bullet. '05 Ural Tourist sidecar rig, converted to 2wd. '05 Harley Davidson Sportster.
Jefferson County, WA

Trapper

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Re: Oil
« Reply #21 on: August 22, 2007, 10:22:22 AM »
To IndianaBulleteer:

Oh yes, my body would have been very damaged had I not had the crash bar. I highly recommend them. The military comes with one stock, our hists list a cromed version in the catalogue - get yours today!

RagMan

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Re: Oil
« Reply #22 on: August 22, 2007, 10:44:04 AM »
Thank you for your answer - I now have sufficient info to determine that I want to have the bars. 
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
''99 Classic Bullet. '05 Ural Tourist sidecar rig, converted to 2wd. '05 Harley Davidson Sportster.
Jefferson County, WA

little_a_o

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Re: Oil
« Reply #23 on: August 22, 2007, 06:42:02 PM »
From the casual reading I have done I was left with the impression that most used Dino for break-in then switched to synthetic if they felt so inclined.
 
I have an '02 500ES that I bought new. The original dealer started it with synthetic and I have kept it that way(Mobil 1 15w50) .The beast currently has 11,000 miles on it. It is my daily commuter all year 'round to work (I ride it about 200 days a year, winter too). So it is mostly short trips in 100 degree down to 12 degree weather. No problems so far with lubrication.

I am continually amazed at the ruggedness of the design. A great machine.

[old attachment deleted by admin]

Trapper

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Re: Oil
« Reply #24 on: August 23, 2007, 06:47:14 AM »
To: little_a_o:

I am not really taking a stand on  the mineral to synthetic transition; I am just reporting what my selling dealer did. He started the bike out on full synthetic- I can't remember the name, just that is was over $11 per quart. At the first oil change I switched it to Mobil One after doing a little research from the "Oil Bible" I found on line some years ago.

Since then, I have collected a few articles and done some reading on it - and the general consensus is split. Many feel very passionately that a motor must be broken in with mineral oil; just as many are just as passionate on synthetic being the only oil to use at any time, period. I just kept the old bullet on synthetic as it was started on synthetic (right or wrong!).

I pulled the head and jug at 6500 miles to repair a head leak; the problem was incorrectly tempered head bolts from the factory. At that time, the bottom end was in very good shape (visual and checking side to side play). I now have 11000 mile and the bike just keeps running better and better. By the way, I am a Marvel Mystery Oil user from way back - none in the crank oil, just a little in the gas. I have done this since the first tank of gas.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2007, 01:02:10 PM by Trapper »

Cyclepath

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Re: Oil
« Reply #25 on: August 23, 2007, 08:17:28 AM »
To: little_a_o:

I am not really taking a stand on  the mineral to synthetic transition;

hi trapper and all.  oh boy, an oil thread ;D ;D ;D  i wont take a stand either as it only causes an argument :-*  but here is what i think.  i am a firm believer in syn. oil right from the start. get the bike home, dump the dead dinosaurs and put a good syn. oil in there.  there are several auto manufactures now shipping there autos with syn. oil right from the factory.  i use syn. in all my vehicles and motorcycles all 10 0f my bikes and four autos.  i have been using shell rotella -t syn. 5w40 in the blue jug. i know it's not a pure syn. but it's close enough. the w  stands for winter blend, not weight and the 5 has something to do with this and i forgot what it was but the oil is a 15/40 viscosity. i think i read this on the shell oil web page somewhere.   i would have no problem using this oil in a RE if i had one. "the jury is still out as to weather i want one or not"  so keep on posting all you guys cuzzzzz i'm reading it all ::)  anyway there is a good oil article on the cal.science web site and if i can find it i'll post a link to it here. pretty informative reading.
ok, i found the web page.      http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html     
a long read but worth it.  those of you using 10w/40. this may lead you to use a different viscosity oil.  make sure you check out some of the other links on the left of the web site page.  lots of good info there.   happy reading,  hope ya got all day ::)

cyclepath
2004 v-strom dl100
1993 goldwing aspy
1980 goldwing, nekid
1994 virago 535
1994 yamaha tw200
2003 yamaha tw200
1973 bultaco 250 alpina
1968 suzuki ts 90
1967 honda ct 90
1978 honda express 50cc
and a bunch of other crap

mbevo1

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Re: Oil
« Reply #26 on: August 26, 2007, 11:12:51 AM »

I've been using "auto" Castol GTX 20W50, SM rated - but was getting concernced with the studies showing the current oil ratings removed some of the old chemicals that provided additional protection for metal-to-metal contact, etc., just what the Bullet cams and big-end might need! Several of our RE experts have noted rapid wear in Bullets using modern formulations.

I found Catrol GTX 20W50 4T oil yesterday at Wal-Mart yesterday ($2.96/quart) and bought a batch.  This is SG rated oil that is supposed to included the stuff to keep the metal bits happy.

Don't know if it will make any diffrence, but since I've found a ready supply at a good price, I think I'll stick with it.

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan
'07 Classic - Stumpy
'10 C5 Military - Sherman