Oil

[justin_o_guy]

Rotella T 15 W 40 costs about $9.00 a gallon at Wally Mart. I am running it in the Suzuki 650 thumper. I can't say it's creating any bad results. I don't see it running low as fast as when I was using Suziki oil that cost almost $4.00 a quart. This engine was designed about 20 yeaRS ago, when oil was mostly yak fat rendered in a cast iron pot in a Voo Doo masters back yard. The RE is an old design, too. I expect the metalurgy has improved over the years & with the modern oils & improved manufacturing processes, the longevity will be improved, even IF we dont run in circles fretting over Which is the BEST slickum for my Baaabeeee. IF I was gonna go hog wild I would look closely at Royal Purple. The testimony from the guy who installed the satellite internet was, he put it in his crankcase, tranny & differential on his Biggo Dodge Ram & picked up 2 MPG. The only way it can increase MPG is to decrease friction & with decreased friction, decreased wear follows suit. Now, the question is, with the added expense of the Super Slickums out there & the riding we do, will we ever recoup the costs of the oil in avoided maintenace?

[Trapper]

I have an '02 500ES that I bought new. The original dealer started it with synthetic and I have kept it that way(Mobil 1 15w50) .The beast currently has 11,000 miles on it. It is my daily commuter all year 'round to work (I ride it about 200 days a year, winter too). So it is mostly short trips in 100 degree down to 12 degree weather. No problems so far with lubrication.

I am continually amazed at the ruggedness of the design. A great machine.

[justin_o_guy]

You pretty rugged yourself riding at 12*. I hope nobody spits in the street. You run over it you may slip down. Well, hinda an exageration, but, be careful. I have had several bad experiences with ice,( more than once it was in my glass, with a strong beverage)  none on a motorcycle, but none were pain free either.

[FiferWD]

I changed the oil (and filter) at 250, 500, 1000, and 2000 miles, and haven't used two whole quarts yet!  Guess the only way to completely drain the motor is to remove the timing-side case, and that seems a little extreme to me...

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan

To drain the timing chest, remove the quill bolt.  A whole buncha oil will come out!

I use a large plastic coffee can for a drain pan. Folgers is my favourite oil changing vessel. It fits just right when the Bullet is on its center stand, and when its full I just take it to the recycling center.

[Trapper]

You pretty rugged yourself riding at 12*. I hope nobody spits in the street. You run over it you may slip down. Well, hinda an exageration, but, be careful. I have had several bad experiences with ice,( more than once it was in my glass, with a strong beverage)  none on a motorcycle, but none were pain free either.

Actually, I did take a spill last February - a pot hole of ice covert with layer of dirt. Went down at about 30-35 mph. Jacket was scuffed, helmet was scratched, and my pride suffered a bit. The bike just got a few scratches on the crash bar and pannier braces. Still made it to work on time!

[RagMan]

Do you find that having a crash bar is an advantage?  would not having it have caused you injury do you think. I have not decided if I want bars or not.  The previous owner had bars, the dealer took them off.

[Trapper]

To IndianaBulleteer:

Oh yes, my body would have been very damaged had I not had the crash bar. I highly recommend them. The military comes with one stock, our hists list a cromed version in the catalogue - get yours today!

[RagMan]

Thank you for your answer - I now have sufficient info to determine that I want to have the bars. 

[little_a_o]

From the casual reading I have done I was left with the impression that most used Dino for break-in then switched to synthetic if they felt so inclined.
 

I have an '02 500ES that I bought new. The original dealer started it with synthetic and I have kept it that way(Mobil 1 15w50) .The beast currently has 11,000 miles on it. It is my daily commuter all year 'round to work (I ride it about 200 days a year, winter too). So it is mostly short trips in 100 degree down to 12 degree weather. No problems so far with lubrication.

I am continually amazed at the ruggedness of the design. A great machine.

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[Trapper]

To: little_a_o:

I am not really taking a stand on  the mineral to synthetic transition; I am just reporting what my selling dealer did. He started the bike out on full synthetic- I can't remember the name, just that is was over $11 per quart. At the first oil change I switched it to Mobil One after doing a little research from the "Oil Bible" I found on line some years ago.

Since then, I have collected a few articles and done some reading on it - and the general consensus is split. Many feel very passionately that a motor must be broken in with mineral oil; just as many are just as passionate on synthetic being the only oil to use at any time, period. I just kept the old bullet on synthetic as it was started on synthetic (right or wrong!).

I pulled the head and jug at 6500 miles to repair a head leak; the problem was incorrectly tempered head bolts from the factory. At that time, the bottom end was in very good shape (visual and checking side to side play). I now have 11000 mile and the bike just keeps running better and better. By the way, I am a Marvel Mystery Oil user from way back - none in the crank oil, just a little in the gas. I have done this since the first tank of gas.

[Cyclepath]

To: little_a_o:

I am not really taking a stand on  the mineral to synthetic transition;

hi trapper and all.  oh boy, an oil thread   i wont take a stand either as it only causes an argument   but here is what i think.  i am a firm believer in syn. oil right from the start. get the bike home, dump the dead dinosaurs and put a good syn. oil in there.  there are several auto manufactures now shipping there autos with syn. oil right from the factory.  i use syn. in all my vehicles and motorcycles all 10 0f my bikes and four autos.  i have been using shell rotella -t syn. 5w40 in the blue jug. i know it's not a pure syn. but it's close enough. the w  stands for winter blend, not weight and the 5 has something to do with this and i forgot what it was but the oil is a 15/40 viscosity. i think i read this on the shell oil web page somewhere.   i would have no problem using this oil in a RE if i had one. "the jury is still out as to weather i want one or not"  so keep on posting all you guys cuzzzzz i'm reading it all   anyway there is a good oil article on the cal.science web site and if i can find it i'll post a link to it here. pretty informative reading.
ok, i found the web page.      http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html     
a long read but worth it.  those of you using 10w/40. this may lead you to use a different viscosity oil.  make sure you check out some of the other links on the left of the web site page.  lots of good info there.   happy reading,  hope ya got all day

cyclepath

[mbevo1]

I've been using "auto" Castol GTX 20W50, SM rated - but was getting concernced with the studies showing the current oil ratings removed some of the old chemicals that provided additional protection for metal-to-metal contact, etc., just what the Bullet cams and big-end might need! Several of our RE experts have noted rapid wear in Bullets using modern formulations.

I found Catrol GTX 20W50 4T oil yesterday at Wal-Mart yesterday ($2.96/quart) and bought a batch.  This is SG rated oil that is supposed to included the stuff to keep the metal bits happy.

Don't know if it will make any diffrence, but since I've found a ready supply at a good price, I think I'll stick with it.

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan