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Author Topic: Sprag Clutch woes  (Read 1003 times)

tjt4792

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Re: Sprag Clutch woes
« Reply #15 on: October 08, 2013, 04:41:45 PM »
Again,thank you all for theinfo.I think my best course of action is to remove the sprag cluster and shaft. I honestly just want my bike to run well at this point, so I dont mind if the starter motor is still around. Does anyone have a good link to a step by step guide on how to perform this removal? I plan on printing it out and dropping it off at my mechanic's shop. thanks again, fellas.

ace.cafe

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Re: Sprag Clutch woes
« Reply #16 on: October 08, 2013, 05:54:47 PM »
It's covered in the manual.
If you don't have the 3 service manuals that are necessary when you own this bike, then you should get them.
Factory Parts Panual
Factory Service Manual
Pete Snidal Bullet Manual.

You must have these to work on these bikes. You must have the Parts Manual to order your correct parts with the correct part numbers. You cannot rely on telephone answering personnel to decide what parts you need.
The Nfield Gear site should have these manuals, and they used to have a "Technical Package" that included all 3 books for a special price.

Do not give your bike to a "mechanic" who does not have these books.
Home of the ACE Fireball 535 Bullet,  Ace GP Hi-Lift Roller Rocker Head . Pistons, cams, etc. Highest performance Bullet engine mods available .  AVL mods. Redditch 700/750 Twin mods. UCE kit soon.

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Voyager AL

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Re: Sprag Clutch woes
« Reply #17 on: October 08, 2013, 09:58:52 PM »
Im gonna do this to my ES model. And Im gonna hook the hot starter wire to a hi-amp draw horn that I have, and it wont need the relay!   I leave the keys in mine, and if someone jumps on and hits the start button,Ill hear it!!! Not too many people can start it without knowing the WAY...

neil

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Re: Sprag Clutch woes
« Reply #18 on: November 01, 2013, 06:27:29 PM »
tjt4792
I would not be concerned about breaking a sweat and still not being able to get your bike started. If your sprag is locked up, each time you tried to kick start your bike you were also turning the gears to the starter motor as well as trying to get enough thrust to turn the engine past TDC and compression. Small wonder you were breaking a sweat! All of us would have been doing the same thing, sweating with the same results. You will be glad to know your bike will be easy to start, once the sprag guts are out.

When one of us says he can do it with his hand, believe it --- he can. Just be sure the gas line is on, after you faithfully shut it off each time you get off your bike at the end of your last ride. Also be sure the kill switch is in the run position. This is basic to starting the bike. Then, --- leave the ignition switch off. Activate the decompressor and if it's a cold morning, also activate the enricher, then push the kick start lever all the way down several times to get an air fuel mixture into the inside of the engine barrel. Now, turn on the ignition, lift the kick start lever all the way to the top and push down until you feel the piston in the engine coming up on compression, even with the decompressor activated you should still be able to tell when the piston is coming up to the top. Then let the decompressor close and push down on the kick starter all the way to the bottom. That should do the trick and your engine will fire usually on the very first kick. Leave the enricher on for a short while and then shut it off while the engine warms up prior to starting off. If you can't get it to fire, the most likely reason will be your spark plug. Remove it and look at it. If it's sooty and wet, do your self a favor and install a new one. Then go through the routine again and I'll bet you will experience --- Joy.
Best to you and ride safely.

Neil and Buzzy the Bullet.

ps. Most of us can do it blindfolded, some blindfolded and by hand.  Get the knack down pat and when you stop for gas and people gather around to watch and ask why your doing that you can reply " I only do it when I want to ride it"

cyrusb

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Re: Sprag Clutch woes
« Reply #19 on: November 01, 2013, 09:03:40 PM »

jest2dogs

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Re: Sprag Clutch woes
« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2013, 10:43:55 PM »
Just installed the ES to KS kit from Nfield. Hand drilled the case to accept the new studs. Not drill press perfect, but it fits and does the job. Used a Cheerios box to align/shim the stator. Cleaned out the broken bits from the old cover (the inner was, of course, new), torqued all to specs, adjusted the primary chain and filled with ATF4 (425ml).

The bike looks and feels lighter and I worry less, because there's less to worry about ;o).

I will send a pic from my other computer since I am still learning this iPad.
"Ennie" 2006 RE Bullet Classic 500
Commuter Scooter Commuted to "Otherside"
"Geezer" 2007 Moto Guzzi Breva 750 died and reborn as...
Yet, un-named, 2005 Moto Guzzi Breva 750

jest2dogs

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Re: Sprag Clutch woes
« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2013, 11:54:36 PM »
Let's see if I can remember how to post pics...
If they posted in the correct order;
1 is new rear cover studs in place,
2 is new drive sprocket, primary chain & partial clutch in place,
3 is old outer cover secured (and not leaking!!!), and
4 is "Ennie", as of last night, in racy, stripped down mode.
(I think I'm gonna' "bob" her :O0! )
"Ennie" 2006 RE Bullet Classic 500
Commuter Scooter Commuted to "Otherside"
"Geezer" 2007 Moto Guzzi Breva 750 died and reborn as...
Yet, un-named, 2005 Moto Guzzi Breva 750

NJ Riff Raff

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Re: Sprag Clutch woes
« Reply #22 on: November 14, 2013, 03:15:12 AM »
I too did the ES to KS conversion with the new inner primary cover, drilling and tapping new holes (a bit nerve racking) to affix to the engine. After 3 sprag fails I'm so glad I choose that route.
2008 Royal Enfield Military Iron Barrel