best rule of thumb I can merember is itwill work on the 4sp IF it has been converted to RH shift. - Mike
Buy a 108 link chain. Then go to Harbor Freight and buy a 3" grinding disc arbor and some 3" grinding discs and a small punch. If you have a die grinder, great! If not, these discs work very well in a drill. With your rear wheel adjusted about a 1/4-1/2" from all the way forward, wrap the new chain around the sprockets and use a paint marker to mark where the chain meets itself. Use the grinding disc to grind the head of the pin off of that link. To be safe, go 1 link longer than you think you need, then go back and remove that link if it is too long. After you grind off the head of the rivet on the link, set the link on a shallow socket and use the punch to drive the pin out of the link. Make sure when you are adjusting the length that you are grinding the right part of the link off so that your master link will join the chain together.Scottie J
Tsubaki HD is a good regular chain at a good price.
Thanks for the info Mike. I wonder why that is? Reading the archives around here it has been an issue of the space behind the primary.Thanks Scottie, I have several chain breakers so the length isn't an issue. My concern is the width of the 530 o-ring chain versus width of a 530 traditional roller. Apparently there is not enough clearance behind the primary for the 530 o-ring, especially with the retaining clip master link.So I'll take this one back and hit up the bike stores today for a regular chain. Thanks for the info, gentlemen...
.....now I'm waiting on the Shinkos to arrive on Monday so I can do the rubber and the chain all at the same time......
Did you order some 705s?
100/90 19 B-)
Best tires I've ever used.