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Author Topic: s cams  (Read 5616 times)

armando_chavez

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Re: s cams
« Reply #30 on: December 11, 2013, 11:52:25 PM »
let me know when to pay up!???

DanB

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Re: s cams
« Reply #31 on: December 12, 2013, 01:08:47 AM »
Hi BW, pm sent.
Suppose I were an idiot, and suppose I were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself. ... Mark Twain
2006 AVL Electra

TejK

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Re: s cams
« Reply #32 on: December 12, 2013, 10:22:47 AM »
Wow !! Great News BW !

All I can do now is Pray and keep my Fingers crossed for Santa to grant my wish!!

High On Octane

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Re: s cams
« Reply #33 on: December 12, 2013, 12:50:03 PM »
I don't even own an AVL, but this is cool stuff!  I love how people on this forum all pull together to make special things like this happen.  :)

Scottie
Bulldog Kustoms - Denver, CO
Specializing In Kustom Paint

The Blackhawk
1958 Enfield/Indian 711cc Twin

Building The 1st Ever Ace Performance
Enfield Twin Full Race Heads

Bullet Whisperer

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Re: s cams
« Reply #34 on: December 14, 2013, 10:05:57 AM »
Just an update, I am working my way through the names of interested parties in the order the P.M.'s came in, any 'drop outs' will be passed over to the next name, but there may be a shortfall. All I can say is if neccessary I will order more cams, but let's see how things go over the next few days  ;)
 Thanks to all.
 B.W.

Bullet Whisperer

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Re: s cams
« Reply #35 on: December 15, 2013, 12:13:53 PM »
I think it may be best to go over some 'old ground' where installation of these cams is concearned, so here is an extract from my reply to some qustions I have been asked about them:
 The cams will come with timing marks on them, just like the factory ones - two marks on the exhaust cam, one on the inlet. In most cases, the cams are installed 'on their marks', but you will need to turn the engine over very carefully and slowly with the spark plug removed, to make sure the valves clear the piston ok, which they usually do, with no trouble. There was one case where an inlet valve touched the piston and this was fixed by retarding the inlet cam by 1 tooth, making the valve open a little later and avoiding the piston. This turned out to be due to some AVL valve seats being cut shallower than others, so the proximity of the closed valves to the piston crowns can vary a little. The decompressor mechanism also has to be removed, to allow the exhaust cam follower to drop a little further onto the new cam's base circle, this is quite easily done.
 I also like to 'over adjust' the pushrods by about 4 flats of the hexagon adjuster 'nuts' for inlet and 6 flats for exhaust [both valves held slightly open] and turn the engine carefully and see that the valves and piston still clear each other, for peace of mind. They usually do, but steps can be taken as above, if required.
 I will be happy to help and advise, if there are any doubts regarding fitting and setting up, but it is quite a straight forward job.
 Any feedback to date relating to these cams in AVL machines has all been good and there are already quite a few out there!
 B.W.
 P.S. - post edited regarding pushrod 'over adjustment' for checking valve to piston clearences.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2013, 04:54:05 PM by Bullet Whisperer »

DanB

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Re: s cams
« Reply #36 on: December 15, 2013, 04:17:26 PM »
Thanks Paul. This is very helpful.
Suppose I were an idiot, and suppose I were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself. ... Mark Twain
2006 AVL Electra

TejK

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Re: s cams
« Reply #37 on: January 12, 2014, 07:03:56 AM »
Got the S cams from Paul !!

Spent about 2 hours y'day to install them and adjust them yesterday. Checked for clearances and all was well. Started the bike and immediately the engine seemed to skip a few beats on idle.

I was running the following setup on my TM34 which I was happy with - 1. Pilot 25 with 2 3/4 out 2. Stock needle in 3 clip from top (middle groove), 3. stock Needle jet 4. 190 main jet 5. dry K&N R1100 6. stock header without the catcon& PAV 7. Straight thru end can shot bottle.

A slight adjustment to the pilot ( richening) got it back to the solid idle. Now the Pilot sits at 1 3/4 out from seated position.

Went for a short slow speed run to bed in the cams - the bike seemed pretty much the same at normal slow speed riding.......

Until. ... I got a little open road and opened the throttle - the difference is amazing !! I am pulling consistently higher speed through the gears and the bike revsss!!! :D and I had a wide grin across my face as I was riding around for the initial run of about 5 kms !!!

Though I have not been able to test the speed on a proper open road, the bike still left me amazed when it started touching a 90kmph (RADON speedo) in the 3rd before I had to slow down ! I think I maybe still a little lean in the 'NEW' rpm range ( which the cams have oped up).

Will go for a long ride to jet correctly and I am sure now I have a Hot-rodded AVL !!

Thank  You Paul !! Appreciate the time and effort you have put into sharing the cams with Enfield lover across the globe !! Though it a large sum of money in view of the exchange rates, this is the best 170 buck (GBP) that i have spent EVER !!

I can now claim to  have a slightly hot-rodded Enfield !! I am just loving it !!




Bullet Whisperer

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Re: s cams
« Reply #38 on: January 12, 2014, 01:32:24 PM »
Hi TejK,
 That's great news! I am very happy that you like the cams and what they do for the AVL, thanks for sharing that here, too!
 I remember when I first tried a set of 'S' cams in the AVL I tuned a few years ago and how I had to open the bike right up several times just to prove to myself that I wasn't dreaming - there is such a difference right away.
 Sadly, I cannot do anything about how long it takes to get them made and I have no control over the banks or how they operate, but one payment came in quickly via the 'Western Union' method recently.
 The 'S' cams are not cheap for 'a pair of cams', but there is a large performance gain to be had from them alone.
 The performance CDI [TCI] also works well alone, but put these two together for even more fun, although I stood down from offering these when Hitchcocks finally decided to take them on and I think they are available from CMW as well, so no problem in getting one these days.
 Enjoy that AVL, TejK and please keep us posted on any progress  8) 8)
 B.W.

boggy

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Re: s cams
« Reply #39 on: January 14, 2014, 04:51:08 PM »
Wow.  Testimonial from TejK is pretty awesome to read. When I'm sorted out I'm definitely gonna want some of these.  90 kmph in 3rd?!  Heck yeah.
2007 AVL
2006 DRZ400SM

TejK

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Re: s cams
« Reply #40 on: January 16, 2014, 11:53:46 AM »
Hi Paul,
Sorry couldn't log in here but tried now I can thanks to my techno gizmo - (smart?)phone. The bike just great now and the funniest thing which stops me from going faster than 130kmph is the fact that the petecock on my bike flows fuel t a rate that's slower than the rate at which the bike is burning !!! Tried a bigger jet but that makes the mid range too rich , so am back to 200 main and in search for the bigger petecock and a bigger fuel filter.

I figured it out by repeating the exercise 3 times and happend to look at the carb and saw the fuel running in and this happened both the times. The first time I thought I had blown off something  :P

Hi Boggy,
Yes the bike is transformed and like Paul said I too had to open her up two three times before I realised that it's not Speedo error or me day dreaming.

Bullet Whisperer

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Re: s cams
« Reply #41 on: January 16, 2014, 01:36:42 PM »
Hi TejK,
 That certainly sounds like the engine is looking for more fuel at or around full throttle - is the tank vent clear? Just a thought.
 The valves will get a much easier life now, as they won't be bouncing after closing anymore - this is what prevents the revs climbing past about 5800 rpm with the standard set up. I lost all compression once on the dyno, the engine  suddenly lost nearly all power during a test run and on investigation I found the inlet valve had started to drop  :o It turned out that the small ridges on the valve collets had been hammered away to nothing and the collets were only hanging on to the very end of the valve stem by the time the engine stopped - that was a close shave, if ever there was  ;)
 B.W.

Bullet Whisperer

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Re: s cams
« Reply #42 on: February 01, 2014, 11:58:03 AM »
Apart from one set on 'hold' for now, all the 'S' cams are now gone, one other set has remained here for me to personally fit them to an Electra X, which has just been dropped off here today. This could be interesting, as I have already shortened the cylinder barrel and modified the piston crown of this machine, as per the original testbed machine of a few years ago. It also already has the performance CDI [TCI] box fitted, this was done at the same time as the top end work, which increases the C.R. to 9.2:1 and this machine is currently capable of around 85 mph. It already has a 'Highway kit' 32 mm Dellorto carb, rather than a 36 mm MK II Amal type that I used, and a 'Goldie' type silencer, so it will probably be a couple of BHP down on the original, but still pretty lively  ;D

Adrian

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Re: s cams
« Reply #43 on: February 01, 2014, 01:41:56 PM »
Hi Paul,

The PHF32 is still a good carb, it can benefit from a richer K35 needle (I just raised the supplied K20 up a notch when I was using mine) and a 130/135 main jet with the open down-pipe, I'm guessing your customer has already tried this. The only other issue with this carb is that the anodizing on the stock ally slide can wear quite quickly, but chrome-plated brass slides are available from Dell'Orto UK (and so are PHF36 carbs...).

Regards,

A.





Bullet Whisperer

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Re: s cams
« Reply #44 on: February 04, 2014, 01:45:06 PM »
Thanks for that info, Adrian.
 The job is now done, I am just on my lunch break, after going for a very fast and enjoyable ride on an Electra X  ;D ;D. Not my place to go blowing this one up, but I took it to around 90 mph with no fuss and a bit in reserve, it saw 80 mph in 4th gear with more to come, as well.
 In the case of this machine, with modified piston crown and shortened barrel, I had to retard the inlet cam by 1 tooth. I also noticed the timing cover wasn't going all the way home when I tried to refit it. This turned out to be because of the position the adjustable spindles were in [I didn't need to disturb them] and the tips of the gear teeth standing a little higher on my 'S' cams [deeper engagement] and I had to remove a small amount of metal from the timing cover in the shiny, relieved area seen in pic 2.
 Another point worth sharing, this machine is showing 17,000 miles and the oil pump drive spindle teeth and worm looked like they might have only made it to about 20,000 miles, so I fitted new ones as a precaution  ;).
 B.W.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2014, 01:49:58 PM by Bullet Whisperer »