That's what these are for. They clean old gasket material in 10 seconds. We go through a box every 2 or 3 weeks at the Subaru shop.Scottie J
All done in 10 minutes this morning after a Goo-Gone douche overnight.
Regarding the jets for the TM32, good starting point for jetting is:30 pilot (22/210 type)P4 needle jet (389 type)Stock 5fp17 needle in middle position195 main jet (4/042 type)That will get you in the neighborhood. You may have to do some changes for temperature changes.
I've switched the jets in the TM-32 from what it comes with to your recommendations above as a starting point. I have a question just for my own info: What's the difference to the engine switching from a Q-2 to a P-4 needle jet? Is it just a matter of the P-4 being richer (with the clip in any given groove) than the Q-2? And what's the difference between a Q & a P jet? I also have to make the switch in my brain about the mixture screw. The BS 29 was CCW richer being a fuel screw. The TM 32 is CW richer being an air screw.
The P4 is a leaner needle jet by a large amount. Q jets are a richer jet series than P jets. Lower letters and numbers are leaner, and get richer as you go up. The range in the P series is P0, P2, P4, P6, P8, and then you get to Q0, Q2,...etc.
The needle jet is the primary fuel regulator from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, along with some help from the needle. From 1/2 throttle to 3/4 throttle, the needle is the primary regulator, along with some help from the needle jet. In other words, the needle jet has stronger effect than the needle does at throttle settings below half throttle, and the needle has stronger effect at throttle settings more than half throttle. At half throttle, they have about the same effect. So, when you do your plug chops to check mixture at the different throttle positions, you know what to adjust.You are correct about the air screw direction. The normal starting point for beginning the tune-up is the screw is 1.5 turns out from the fully in position. Any adjustment that is more than 3 turns out has gone beyond the adjustment range, and the next leaner jet needs to be installed, and start the screw process again. If the engine runs(doesn't die) with the screw fully in, then it needs the next richer jet, and start the screw adjustment process again.
....Most people who bitch about them don't read the F-ing manual or have intake leaks or something else wrong with the basic engine or tuneup that's NOT carb related.
Hi 2CV,I don't have them... But, I scoped these out at my local true value (automotive, hardened washers). I don't know the size, but if you're in a pinch let me know and the appropriate size. I'll grab a few and post them.
2CVI looked at Hitchcocks AVL parts list and couldn't find any hardened washers.I did find 6 stainless steel washers that go under the cylinder head nuts. Those are the ones I need for the AVL. 4 were there, two were missing. Hitchcocks seems to list them for the ironhead, but not the AVL. ??In any case, why do they have to be hardened washers?There is nothing moving against them that would create wear and hardening a piece of steel does not change the degree it will bend under load. The modulus of elasticity of steel remains the same regardless of its hardness.The Hitchcock site shows the nuts as M8 X 1.25 so the body diameter of the studs would be 8mm or .315 inches (5/16" for all practical purposes).A regular 5/16" washer in the US will be about 3/4" in diameter.There is a 17/64 ID and a 9/32 ID washer that is 5/8 outside diameter but they might be hard to find.Finding a 1/4" ID washer with an outside diameter of 9/16" should be pretty easy and drilling out the hole to 5/16" would allow it to work fine.Using it sure would be better than using nothing at all.