I'm guessing it is the turn signal flasher.
A pulse coil triggers the ignition to fire. An exciter coil provides voltage in an AC system. Battery supplies voltage in a DC system.
It's not a Hall Effect trigger. It's not on a rotating part of the engine; how could it trigger the spark? It's in the left side case (as I already said) & it's completely epoxied solid. I'll go take pictures. Be back in a while. The component is right in the center above the brake light switch.
You could always unplug it and toss it in the trash.Then, when something on your motorcycle doesn't work you can say, "So! THAT'S what that thing did! Now, where I toss it?"
Many modern ignition systems have a condenser (not like those on a points set up) to provide seamless voltage flow and spike protection, possible?Roverman.
I'm pretty sure that the Pulser Coil is hooked up directly to the Flux Capacitor and helps converts the fuel into the required 1.21 Gigawatts. Without it, you won't be able to break the time/space continuum when you hit 88mph. Be careful not to ground yourself out on it, 1.21 gigawatts will send you to the skies! Scottie
And the next thing you know you end up in the year 1955/56 in Redditch England...
I believe the pulser coil is in with the generator. It's the green and white wires coming out of the motor. Could that box be the starter auto cutoff?
http://racetechelectric.com/ft-752-pulser-coil-ignition-systems.htmlWell here's a good explanation but why it's in the sidebox..Maybe the wires go to a pickup point and they figure to put the actual coil in a protected area...I don't have one as mine (06) is the older points/condenser..The article goes into good detail re. when they started to use this technique to generate 12 v...If it's providing voltage to ECU, I wouldn't remove it while its running...GM...
Yes Tooseevee, an eight wire capacitor! Take a gander at a wiring diagram for a Land Rover/ Jag AJ V8. Roverman.
The Pulser Coil, (often called Pickup Coil, Timing Coil or Crankshaft Position Indicater ) is responsible for providing the timing signal to the ignition control box on modern motorcycles with solid-state ignition system. The Pulser Coil, as a unit, is not usually serviceable. It is a sealed component, and should be replaced if determined to be a problem. Pulser Coil problems sometimes manifest themselves in hot running situations, but usually failures result in no spark at all. When the pulser coil fails it will usually produce no output pulse, or a very weak one.I've had several go bad in Triumphs. They quit working when they get overheated at continuous high speeds on a hot day. After the bike quits, which will definitely be at some spot where you didn't need that, like an HOV lane during rush hour, after it cools down a few minutes it will work again until it gets hot again. Slowing down helps it last a bit longer.Bare
ISTRC when the problem of backfiring & resultant sprag clutch damage reared its ugly head another solution was tried before the green TCI box appeared as a replacement for the original black one, a little box intended to delay the ignition from firing for a couple of revolutions to allow the e-start to get the engine up to cranking speed first. Could be one of those?
So is there a problem or are you just trying to figure out what the box does? I know you don't want to believe it but I too think it has something to do with your ignition. It sounds like the only way you're going to find out is by opening up the wire harness. I have a feeling once you do you're going to find 2 wires running to some sort of a trigger somewhere. JMHOScottie
So, the little black box was a part of the old RE "Black box" system? The newer "Green box" doesn't use it.
So even tho the black box was inop, we were technically right about it's purpose. Glad you got it figured out. Did you eliminate the extra wires?Scottie
& continue on up that great lump of wires that goes forward under the tank & into the nacelle. I think I'll count those wires that go forward. There's a huge shitload of them (my shovel runs on about 7 wires).
Hey Tooseevee, i am glad you figured out the much ado about nothing problem . And no more whining about your poor sore fingers. Here in Michigan we call this time of year "rotted splice season". I have spent all week tracing and repairing salt water soaked wiring. It would boggle your mind how one tiny nick in the insulation of a CAN wire can stop an $100,000 SUV dead in it's tracks.ROVERman, get it!
Colour me humbled.
It wouldn't boggle my mind at all. I understand perfectly. I've done stuff like that & worse, in the cold, my whole life since I grew up in Wyoming & then spent since 1959 mostly on the East Coast freezing some more
Tooseevee, gotta ask, when and where were you growing up in Wyoming?Bare
Wow, 2cv, I'm glad that you figured out that rats nest, or part of it. I have been looking longingly at unwrapping that huge mess and rerouting or eliminating some of it. I had wondered if some of the loom had left over components like the timing tower up the right side of the engine. I installed the larger tri-bar light last weekend and thought, I have got to get these wires fixed. I started mapping it out last summer, but got interrupted by a bad illness. I am making plans to move and so buttoned up my 2008 even though the sprag is still a mess. So when my shop is resituated, first the sprag, and then the rats nest. When I replace the old TCI with the new green one, I get to remove the "pulser" in the left case. I'm wanting to relocate all my fuses and components to one of the right or left cases and get them out from under the seat. Thanks for figuring it out.