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Author Topic: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos  (Read 541 times)

azcatfan

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Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« on: January 22, 2014, 03:51:32 AM »
I decided to do some maintenance on the í02 (currently named ĎCurryí).  One of the things I like to do is research work before I do it by checking out YouTube videos.  So hereís a few I made using advice from the Snidal manual and/or advice I have gotten from using the search function on the forum here:

First up is an oil and filter change:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Aja2MnFS4Q
Some of the other videos out there do not include the filter, or even suggest that it is better to skip it.  I canít understand that, itís pretty straight forward.

Next is draining the breather catch can, I figured it would be good to do while changing the oil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uF0MX2Rvr2k

Here is the Primary Oil Change Video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfytO6VHra8
I strike some controversy in this one, Iím sure, by choosing to use ATF in the primary.  I encourage discussion, so by all meansÖ

Next up is the gear box: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SEB3UrGgM8
On a warm day after riding several hours, I would get one or two individual little drops from the transmission gearbox.  Iíve read the Snidal manual which recommends 90wt, even daring to do so without a sealed bearing, but everything Iíve read in regards to Indian made Enfields is that they will leak.
Now, my leak wasnít bad by any stretch, and the previous owner had a huge tube of grease meant to be used with oil to top things off.  I went with a slurry that I call Snot Gear Grease, a recipe provided by baird444 (mike).  Melting a tube of green grease and combining it with 30wt into a squeeze bottle.

So I over filled the trans with 90wt, ran until warm, drained it, and refilled it with the snot.  If I get more than the 1-2 small drops after long rides, Iíll go back to the other method, but for now my gears are shifting like butter and the clunkyness Iíve been getting used to, has gone.

Finally, I changed the Fork Oil as well:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rqyb8NQ84Qw
Pretty simple, I drained and replaced with ATF.

Hopefully these videos will help some folks that are new to the Royal Enfield world, especially with the Iron Barrels.   :)
-2002 Bullet ES Up-Jetted with Ace Air Canister and punched HD Exhaust.

baird4444

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Re: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2014, 11:29:00 AM »
looks good on the gear grease.Maybe I should have been more
clear, I used the LARGE tube but so long as the consistence isn't
quite solid when cool you should be ok. You may find that some
still seeps past the bearing after a long ride and it's hot there.
This can be caused because there is the tiniest bit of pressure
built up from the heat in the semi sealed unit. The small
amount of pressure may force the thinned grease through
the bearing making people want to change to the sealed
version. Consider venting the filler cap to prevent this; much
easier than the bearing change.
   I like the Green cause you can identify it, another
reason to use ATF in the primary, all color coded.
            - Mike
"You can't drink all day if you don't start in the morning!! "
        -Cody Baird
'My dear you are ugly,
 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
 - Winston Churchill

redcat

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Re: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2014, 08:44:48 PM »
One thing I always do (at ERC's recommendation) is soak the new oil filter in some new engine oil before installation to eliminate any lag time in oil flow as it works through the filter. I don't know if it matters but it makes me feel better. Nice job with the video azcatfan, your bike is immaculate
« Last Edit: January 22, 2014, 08:47:45 PM by redcat »
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Arizoni

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Re: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2014, 10:47:43 PM »
azcatfan's Royal Enfield is the bike I almost bought.  Except for the front brake adjustment it was in perfect condition but several non-motorcycle related things made me hesitate to buy it.

Now that I see the excellent videos azcatfan has made I'm kinda glad he got it instead of me.
I know the previous owner would be glad to see it went to a good home. :)
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary

azcatfan

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Re: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2014, 11:14:16 PM »
Consider venting the filler cap to prevent this; much
easier than the bearing change.
   I like the Green cause you can identify it, another
reason to use ATF in the primary, all color coded.
            - Mike

Mike - I will consider venting the fill plug if it persists.  I mixed the green stuff to a similar consistency to what came out, so I should be good there.  Green for gearbox, red for primary and brown for motor, easy to tell right away...

redcat - That is a great tip, I don't know why I didn't do it to tell you the truth.  I always fill the screw-on filters for my trucks when I do those oil changes, same principle...

Arizoni - I still stay in touch with Barney, buying an RE from an owner like him means you've not only got a nice bike, but a buddy as well.   8)
-2002 Bullet ES Up-Jetted with Ace Air Canister and punched HD Exhaust.

azcatfan

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Re: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2014, 02:18:35 AM »
Just a little update on that trans Snot Grease recipe:

After a week of commuting on the bike, temps ranging from around freezing in the morning to mid 80's in the afternoon, the concoction is working very well!  Normally on a warm afternoon after riding quite a bit, I would sometimes get a single drop from the gear box.  So far, nothing.

Also, the shift feels smoother (not even close to a JAP bike, I'm not talking miracle stuff here) and it is easier to flick into neutral from first or second.

I did have one little tweak I had to make.  Apparently when I put the footpeg back on the primary side, I had rotated it counter-clockwise one position.  I didn't realize it until I was having a hard time getting the shifter to rebound from a downshift.  I went to investigate the shifter issue, and as soon as I loosened the foot peg bolt, I saw the shifter rise ever-so-slightly.  I repositioned the footpeg so that it wasn't interfering with the shifter, and everything has been great ever since that first test ride after the fluid change.

Just putting this out there in case someone else runs into the same issue.  I searched and read how others had changed the position of the shifter itself, but I didn't see where anyone had mentioned the footpeg mount being the issue.  Also if one cared to rotate their footpeg, a simple washer on the inside of the mount would remedy the interference with the shifter.
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Arizoni

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Re: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2014, 05:10:40 AM »
With the infamous left shift claptrap used on the 4 speed bikes like yours, if you've managed to make the shift seem at all smooth in any way, you've worked wonders!

Having never ridden a Royal Enfield with this left hand conversion before, I didn't know what to expect when I test rode your bike.
The nearest thing I could associate shifting that bike with was the funky gearshift on an old Volkswagen Beetle.

Lots of movement at the shifter but not much happening downstream.  ;D
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary

azcatfan

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Re: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2014, 04:01:48 PM »

The nearest thing I could associate shifting that bike with was the funky gearshift on an old Volkswagen Beetle.


I compare this bike to the VW all the time, and you're right, it really is.  The biggest thing that helped me when I first got it, was reading this forum.  Holding the shifter in place until you've let out on the clutch when changing gears really does work.  I went from having a couple false neutrals every time I rode it, to going weeks without hitting one.  The bike really does teach you how to ride it...
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High On Octane

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Re: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2014, 04:06:04 PM »
+1 On holding the shifter with your toe until the clutch is completely released.  I need to do that with first gear otherwise it jumps out.  Still does on occasion even when I hold it in place, which usually results in it jumping out of gear and then immediately back in while I look like a rodeo clown trying to actually ride a bull!  LMAO   ;D

Scottie
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Blltrdr

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Re: Iron Barrell Fluids and Filter Change Videos
« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2014, 07:28:51 PM »
+1 On holding the shifter with your toe until the clutch is completely released.  I need to do that with first gear otherwise it jumps out.  Still does on occasion even when I hold it in place, which usually results in it jumping out of gear and then immediately back in while I look like a rodeo clown trying to actually ride a bull!  LMAO   ;D

Scottie

If you have problems with a gears popping out you should check your detent plunger assembly. The tip of the assy. can wear and round over which can allow for it to not stay put in the detents of the gear operator assembly. You should also check the spring action on the tip. If it isn't smooth you can squirt some WD40 into it and use some compressed air to blow out anything that might be jamming it up. You can use a file to dress the tip of the plunger (sharpen tip) so it mates properly in the detents of the GOA. The GOA could also be worn out and would have to be replaced. Also your alignment of the GOA for positive shifting is a must. If you take out your plunger assy. and look into the hole you will see the GOA. Look at the alignment of the detents as you go through the gears. If it looks like it is slightly off you will need to adjust your stop plate on your ratchet assy. to get the detent to align. Sometimes to get the right alignment you need to elongate the holes on the stop plate so you can move it to the far left or right to get your adjustment perfect. To perfect my shifter I had to elongate the holes so I could go past the original full counterclockwise position.
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