"Factory" road tests indicated them hitting the ton. Every "independent" road indicated a top speed of 94mph. And my bike doesn't have a 21 tooth, it has an 18 tooth front, which is why I want to put a 21 tooth on it. Constellations came with a 20 tooth, the Super Meteors only came with a 18.Scottie J
With a 20 you might lose lower end. Most likely would give you a great top end. As Ace says a 19 might be safer for all around performance. ERC
I realize that small change in sprockets can have a significant difference, but I'm telling you this bike is way under geared. I can get up to 75mph in about 8 seconds and then it takes about 3/4 of a mile to go from 75-90. The motor pulls pretty damn hard all the way to that 75mph mark and then just starts losing steam. And I should be putting out a bit more power than a stock 700cc twin as well, being the cylinders are punched +.040 and I have EI installed. And if you look at the gear chart, you can see right now (18TF/46TR) that I'm damn near redlined at 90mph in 4th gear. Only jumping to a 19TF will redline me below the ton, 6123 RPMs @ 100mph when the bike is barely good for 6K in current form. I'm not too worried about sacrificing a little low end power, as when I'm playing in the dirt I'm usually creeping in 1st or 2nd gear anyways and the 20TF will give me a little more leeway for 1st gear fun. If I'm on the street, chances are I'm cranking on it anyways. I guess I'll go with a 20TF as it is good for just over The Ton and should still ease up my highway speeds. This whole cruising at 4500 RPMs at 65 mph is no good.Scottie J
I believe all the old twins came with 46 teeth. ERC
Newby has the wet clutch that is less expensive than the belt drive and dry clutch, and works with the regular primary stuff that's already there.
So, I tore apart the primary cover for 1,378 time last night. I have discovered that not only do I NOT need to remove the foot peg to get the cover off, but I don't even have to remove the rear brake pedal either, I just have to remove the push rod from the brake pedal and it drops completely out of the way. So that's cool to learn! As for the clutch. What a piece of crap! I actually took a very close look at the individual pieces as I was tearing it apart, and what an archaic relic from the times of old! As for the diagnosis..... All the friction plates have plenty of material, but they are glazed like no clutch I've ever seen before. Not to mention all the slop and play in every part of that clutch basket. Needless to say, I now find myself at a cross roads. Do I try and replace the crappy parts with slightly better parts and HOPE it doesn't slip anymore? Or do I say fuck the dumb shit and order a clutch basket from Bob Newby, either chain or belt drive? I'm inclined to get a Newby clutch, as the RE scissor clutch is nothing more than a semi-functioning 20 piece paper weight.I'd rather be spending money on the Bonneville build, but damn it, I don't like not being able to ride anything at all either. And Blltrdr - I do appreciate that info for the clutch basket blue printing, but I'm done polishing turds. Sure, I could send it out and have that turd better than ever. But it's still a turd, it still stinks, it's just shinier now. LOL But I am curious..... You are in fact running the Sureflex plates in your clutch now. Correct? What are your thoughts on their performance? Is it actually worth trying? I'm already laying down way more torque than this clutch can handle as is, and I only plan on making it faster once the Bonneville bike is complete. Maybe it's worth the money just replacing the entire clutch now and be done with it and having the security in mind that it will never be an issue again? Scottie J
........Also, if your clutch throw-out rod is segmented with a single ball bearing between the segments, like a Bullet, replace the steel ball bearing with a good quality ceramic ball bearing. Lower friction and so it can't friction weld together..
Just a thought about using something like an air hammer.If the rivets are easily peened over with hand tools, that is the way I would recommend.It allows the builder to sneak up on the right amount of peening so the friction material is held in place but not crushed.It also reduces the chance of overdoing it and warping the underlying plates.Just a thought.
Well, here I am, 10 days later and still no parts from Hitchcocks. And God forbid they give you a tracking number to prove they actually shipped it when they said they did. It better not take 2 1/2 weeks again. I freaking HATE that I have to order parts from them, their deliveries are below sub par.Scottie J
If you had spent the money for tracking you would be able to see that your parts have been in Colorado Springs all week.
On the clutch basket, you just tighten the 3 bolts until they are tight correct? Do they need Loctite too?
19t, no slack in the tappets, 1/2 gallon in tank, 40 psi in the rear tyre, 35 psi in the front, wear underpants only, flat on the tank, you should just about do it B.W.
Hi Scottie, if I have read you right, you have your ignition going off at 34 deg BTDC fully retarded, so you must have getting on for 60 deg BTDC timing fully advanced, which is too early to give you the best from this motor. I would want about 35 to 38 deg fully advanced. I don't want to piss on your chips, just trying to help. B.W.