Typically, a decomp leak is most often the result of incorrect assembly of the decomp stack. It is very easy to get it wrong, and a lot harder to get it right. I suggest looking at a close-up photo of one which is known to be correct, and compare the assemblies.Most often, this will find the problem, and proper reassembly will cure it.
Hmm seems I might be missing the main washer, would that cause a bad seal?Otherwise it's properly assembled.Also is it bad that I could completly remove the valve itself from the head?
If the washer wasn't there, and the decomp wasn't fully seated, that might leak enough to cause issues.And yes, you can remove the whole thing from the head, but you'll need a blanking plug, which was available at one time from Nfield Gear, and it might still be available. If you blank off the decomp, you'll need to use moderate foot pressure to slowly get the leakdown pressure past your rings to get the piston to TDC for kickstarting it. But it can be done like that.
Ill try some washers then.I meant is it a problem if I can physically remove the valve, shouldnt it be wider that its hole?
I did take the cotter pin out, this is why I had to do this in the first place Could I use a spark plug with a thread sealer as a temp solution if i cant fix the decomp? Or until a replacemenf can arrive?
God damn it.Its stripped, the thread is fucked.Looks like the head's gotta come off, sent off, fixed and I'm bikeless for awhile, there goes my good mood for a long time.
Heli-coil it with the head in place. ERC
. fill the bore with shaving cream . Never thought of using a shop vac. Maybe try both.
. Barbersol? Gillette With lanolin? Foam....edge....foam.....edge..
What do you need Mazza I have a few gaskets lying around, happy to give you one. Also you can get parts pretty quickly from Graham at http://www.royalenfieldaustralia.com/spare_parts.phpRegards Charles