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Author Topic: wrist pin(gudgeon pin) removal  (Read 194 times)

rtillery02

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wrist pin(gudgeon pin) removal
« on: September 15, 2014, 03:54:56 PM »
Fixin to pull the head off my 2002 Bullet for valve work, is the piston pin generally so snug/tight that it takes the removal tool to extract it?
  While I am in there, I thought I'd upgrade the top end with the alloy jug & matching piston.
  I'm expecting proper compression & tolerable running temps, but I'd like to have all of my tools in order before I get in there, Thanks for any tips on what to expect.
Some Folks Grow Old & Wise, &
Some Folks Just Grow Old.

ace.cafe

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Re: wrist pin(gudgeon pin) removal
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2014, 03:57:13 PM »
The pin is easier to get in or out if you heat up the piston with a hair dryer or something like that, first. That expands the piston and the hole, and it's easier to work with the pin that way.

cafeman

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Re: wrist pin(gudgeon pin) removal
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2014, 05:34:28 PM »
Fixin to pull the head off my 2002 Bullet for valve work, is the piston pin generally so snug/tight that it takes the removal tool to extract it?
  While I am in there, I thought I'd upgrade the top end with the alloy jug & matching piston.
  I'm expecting proper compression & tolerable running temps, but I'd like to have all of my tools in order before I get in there, Thanks for any tips on what to expect.
If you check eBay there are at least 3 versions of wrist pin removal tools. One is the old style that resembles the factory piece, another by Motion Pro that has various sized heads, and another that has 14mm and 17mm heads which will press the pin out. Anywhere from $25 shipped and up
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Current Fleet: 2001 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Cafe Racer
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Mr.Mazza

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Re: wrist pin(gudgeon pin) removal
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2014, 08:30:49 PM »
The pin is easier to get in or out if you heat up the piston with a hair dryer or something like that, first. That expands the piston and the hole, and it's easier to work with the pin that way.

Heat removal and installation is the easiest way ;)
Lizzy - 07 500 Deluxe ES - Red and chrome

rtillery02

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Re: wrist pin(gudgeon pin) removal
« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2014, 02:45:41 PM »
Well, while the head is in my local machine shop, I removed the barrel & was go'in to "attempt" the wrist pin removal, out with the clips...slid right out with a small deep socket & steady preasure, no tools needed.
  My top end looks "perfect", my 2 top rings were stacked but, everything mics' out well within tolerances, no scoring,smears...nothing, not expecting that with the 380+ deg. temps. it was running in the 7 mile trips twice a day.
  That's just too hot for my comfort in such a short distance, maybe the shop will find a loose valve seat or sumthin, a H/O oil pump is startin to look like a fair investment... what say ye?
Some Folks Grow Old & Wise, &
Some Folks Just Grow Old.

Mr.Mazza

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Re: wrist pin(gudgeon pin) removal
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2014, 03:26:00 AM »
Hi flow oil pump can make a difference, more flow = more heat transfer.
Lizzy - 07 500 Deluxe ES - Red and chrome

rtillery02

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Re: wrist pin(gudgeon pin) removal
« Reply #6 on: September 25, 2014, 01:29:44 PM »
Thanks Mr.Mazza, Is it common to replace ONLY the scavenger side disc with a H/O disc yet keeping the lower pump stock volume?
Some Folks Grow Old & Wise, &
Some Folks Just Grow Old.

ace.cafe

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Re: wrist pin(gudgeon pin) removal
« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2014, 03:49:34 PM »
Stock pumps already have scavenge exceed supply. It is necessary in a dry sump system.

"Hi output" pumps are not necessary unless you change the big end bearing to  a roller.

"Stacked" ring gaps are not really a problem as long as the rings move freely in the grooves. Rings rotate around the piston during running. Best to orient rings staggered away from the thust faces for the first startup after reassembly, though.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2014, 04:05:41 PM by ace.cafe »