I'm a new rider and just bought an '08 Bullet 500 w/AVL motor. It's my first bike, though I took a basic rider course in the spring to learn some ropes. Lovin' it so far. My Bullet appears to have a finicky transmission that doesn't like to downshift. Sometimes it needs a stomp to go down a gear, other times it'll go to neutral between every gear (without illuminating the neutral light unless it's a 2-1 shift) and requires a light tap on the shifter to nudge into a lower gear when that happens. I bought it from a dealer as a new bike with 143mi on it already. Just wondering if this transmission thing is normal or does it need an adjustment or?? The clutch engages very early so I'm wondering if it isn't fully disengaging when I pull the lever. It's under warranty but the dealer is about 100mi away so I don't want to go up there unless I really have to. Thanks!
Never park your bike running unless the green neutral light is on.
Well Matt, I guess your right. Nothing works all the time. Murphy's Law!On one post some time back a new guy was talking about the false neutral deal and in the same sentence talked about liking to put the bike on the side stand and run into quick mart and back out. Ever since then I caution guys against that.
Here is a post sent to me when breaking in my Electra"to check the clutch actuating free play - To do this you need ensure that both cable adjusters (handlebar and gear box) are set nearly all the way in. Remove the oval (5 SPEED) inspection cover that is held on by the two allen screws. Loosen the 10mm nut with the set screw in the center. With the nut backed off loosen the set screw until there is no resistance. Then turn the set screw in to the point that you just feel resistance, back the set screw off 1/8 turn to allow for heat expansion and tighten the locking nut without moving the set screw's position. Replace the inspection cover and gasket. Now adjust your clutch cable freeplay as you would normally do. "I also found that the rubber insulation or coating on the outer cable sleeve extended past the metal on the gear box end without the bushing like the lever end. This made for a spongy clutch as the outer cable compressed into the adjustment nut at the gear box end. I just trimmed of the extra rubber and cleaned out the fragments and repeated the adjustment above.
whooo.. bet that was exciting .. i "m close to a 1000 with no problems
...The clutch actuating 'arm' that the cable connects to is what changes the pulling motion of the cable to a pushing motion on the thrust pin that moves the clutch in/out. ...
to PhilJFront brake? I should've added that I have small hands and rheumatoid arthritis and a fairly steep hill - but most of all - as my wife will tell you, I don't seem to mind looking like an idiot.
I just got back from the dealer where my bike is still apart. I saw the arm and it actually looks like the cable somehow tore through the metal and ripped itself free. The arm is not only "torn" but also pulled apart between the connecting holes. I think that it was probably failing and slowly pulling apart over the past hundred or so miles and that is why it was getting harder to find neutral and requiring more effort to change gears. It's really freaky looking. The dealer and I agree that it must have been a bad cast when they made the arm. Anyway, if any of you are experiencing those symptoms you may want to double check that arm while you're adjusting the clutch.
Did it look like this? ...
...Do you know when your bike was made? I'm curious to know if this was perhaps a bad run and, if there was a run of bad castings, what dates they might have been used on the line. Just reachin' here.