535 bore break-in

[jonapplegate]

 I am thinking about installing the big-bore alloy barrel. Anyone know what kind of break-in speed and miles we are talking about?

Thanks,
            Jon

[dewjantim]

Hey Jon, go to mototune.com and read their break-in procedure. A little controversial, but it works for me......Dew.

[Peter]

Which piston are you going to use?

Peter

[Thumper]

I am thinking about installing the big-bore alloy barrel. Anyone know what kind of break-in speed and miles we are talking about?

Thanks,
            Jon

I think a standard break-in would be sufficient. Go easy for about 500 miles, varying the throttle so that you don't hold it at one constant speed for more than a couple of miles.  Increasing or decreasing by about 5 mph for even a short sprint of 1/4 mile is enough to vary it under periods where you're pressured by traffic to go a constant speed. Avoid long, uphill grades.  Keep it under 45 for the first 100, under 55 for the next 400.

You can always be more conservative with the road speeds.

Matt

[baird4444]

Hey Jon, go to mototune.com and read their break-in procedure. A little controversial, but it works for me......Dew.

Dew...  did you use this method on your Enfield??  I DO agree with it on a modern engine with real oil pumps with real oil pressure to keep every thing rinsed...
Maybe on a new crotchrocket....
 remember that these 50 year old designed machines don't really carry any measureable oil pressure; just flow...     
- Mike

[FiferWD]

I'm also considering the 535 kit, but doesn't it come with a piston?

Referring to  the Freeway thread, would the increased power of the 535 yield higher sustained speeds, or would it just mean you could get to 55 mph faster?

[baird4444]

I'm also considering the 535 kit, but doesn't it come with a piston?
Referring to  the Freeway thread, would the increased power of the 535 yield higher sustained speeds, or would it just mean you could get to 55 mph faster?

ok...  this is fuzzy math but it almost makes sense...
the increase to the 535 is only 7%. Now if you ad that 7% to the 55mph;
 your present happy speed; you are up to almost 59mph...
is it worth it??
Just thinking out loud...  - Mike

[Leonard]

ok...  this is fuzzy math but it almost makes sense...
the increase to the 535 is only 7%. Now if you ad that 7% to the 55mph;
 your present happy speed; you are up to almost 59mph...
is it worth it??
Just thinking out loud...  - Mike

Mike,
  I believe it is the increase in compression that gives the 535 conversion the extra ponies not so much the increase in CC's.  I couldn't tell why but I agree, your math is fuzzy 
--Leonard

[RagMan]

If you gained the extra ccs with the kit, and put a larger sprocket on, you could more easily sustain an increased top speed. But would the increase in speed be worth the outlay in monies for the 535cc kit and the larger sprocket?

I could see a definite advantage with the 535 kit, if one reduced the size of the sprocket, and hooked up a sidecar - that would give better pulling without sacrificing as much speed.

[Peter]

Compression and displacement are different things and the math - well I was never good at that myself.

I have the alloy 535 and the forged 8.5:1 "acralite" piston.
The stock head is lapped to the cylinder.

There are several benefits: better heat dissipation, more torque and power, I would be surprised if I would see the need to decoke as much as with the standard setup.

Downside is that I need premium gas and had to fettle with the clutch.

As it is a forged piston, I just broke it in quickly and switched to synthetic oil after about 700 miles. I was also breaking in a new head otherwise I would have switched after 300-400 miles. I do an early (50-100 miles) oil change though, to get the inevitable shavings out as much as possible.

As far as I understand, cast pistons are a different matter for various reasons.
But I don't have any interest in these so I never bothered to find out the gory details.


Peter

[jonapplegate]

Yes, I was thinking of the high compression 535 alloy piston and barrel set-up. I realize compression equals more heat but the alloy heat dissipation is better. I would probably add hi-po oil pumps before any big changes. I would think bigger bore and compression would improve top-end more than bottom end torque.   

[Peter]

.... I would think bigger bore and compression would improve top-end more than bottom end torque.   

It's not that simple. There are many variables going into a well tuned, nice ride.
Higher compression and more displacement help out in a more general way.

Let's just say that the performance results are satisfying all around.

Peter

[dewjantim]

Hey Jon, go to mototune.com and read their break-in procedure. A little controversial, but it works for me......Dew.

Dew...  did you use this method on your Enfield??  I DO agree with it on a modern engine with real oil pumps with real oil pressure to keep every thing rinsed...
Maybe on a new crotchrocket....
 remember that these 50 year old designed machines don't really carry any measureable oil pressure; just flow...     
- Mike

Even though our engines are 50+ year old designs they still have modern metals in the rings and bearings. And, yes, I did use this method. Have almost 6000 miles on my bike and it still runs like a top. Many top engine builders disagree with this method. The couple I have talked to (on the net) say to break-in every newly rebuilt motor easily. Even though they say that,  they wont answer when I ask them how they break in their race motors. Obviously, they must be talking out of both sides of their mouth. Saying break-in slowly, but knowing that isnt possible with a race engine. Only one time did I follow proper break-in procedure. In 1981 I bought a Honda 750F and broke it in per owners manual. It smoked for 2500 miles until the rings finally seated........Dew.

[Peter]

Hey Jon, go to mototune.com and read their break-in procedure. A little controversial, but it works for me......Dew.

Dew...  did you use this method on your Enfield??  I DO agree with it on a modern engine with real oil pumps with real oil pressure to keep every thing rinsed...
Maybe on a new crotchrocket....
 remember that these 50 year old designed machines don't really carry any measureable oil pressure; just flow...     
- Mike

If your oil pressure is low, you must have one of the engines with a pressure relief valve (PRV) in the crank and it has failed. You will hear from your big end bearing shortly.
The Bullet big end bearing is a floating bushing bearing and critically dependent on oil pressure.
The correct opening pressure of the PRV is 35PSI (I heard) and everything would be fine if they wouldn't fail open (bad spring). Mine opened at 25PSI and I disabled it with a JB weld injection.
These valves were put in the 2001 to 2003 years and were subsequently abandoned.
You can check if you have one by taking out the oil feed quill bolt and gently pushing against the ball at the end of the hollow crankshaft (you need a stick). No give = no valve or failed valve maybe.

Peter 

[baird4444]

Hey Jon, go to mototune.com and read their break-in procedure. A little controversial, but it works for me......Dew.

Dew...  did you use this method on your Enfield??  I DO agree with it on a modern engine with real oil pumps with real oil pressure to keep every thing rinsed...
Maybe on a new crotchrocket....
 remember that these 50 year old designed machines don't really carry any measureable oil pressure; just flow...     
- Mike

If your oil pressure is low, you must have one of the engines with a pressure relief valve (PRV) in the crank and it has failed. You will hear from your big end bearing shortly.
The Bullet big end bearing is a floating bushing bearing and critically dependent on oil pressure.
The correct opening pressure of the PRV is 35PSI (I heard) and everything would be fine if they wouldn't fail open (bad spring). Mine opened at 25PSI and I disabled it with a JB weld injection.
These valves were put in the 2001 to 2003 years and were subsequently abandoned.
You can check if you have one by taking out the oil feed quill bolt and gently pushing against the ball at the end of the hollow crankshaft (you need a stick). No give = no valve or failed valve maybe.
Peter 

Peter- I've got over 20,000 MILES on my 2003 bullet and I've been reading many of these groups for 6 years. The bush needs flow- NOT pressure. the roller bearings need pressure. Have you pulled your tappet cover while running??? Just a dribble...     it has been said that at lower rpms the oil pressure is still to low to measure, But flow or soaking is what proects the bush.
- Mike