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Author Topic: foamy oil  (Read 2522 times)

No. 5

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foamy oil
« on: September 25, 2007, 01:45:53 AM »
 I checked my oil today and it seemed much more foamy than before. Like I overfilled it. It's a half inch below full on the stick. Right where I filled it to when I changed it about 150 miles ago. Any thoughts?

gapl53

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Re: foamy oil
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2007, 01:34:43 PM »
Are you checking the oil wit the engine hot or cold and are you screwing the cap back in as the manual instructs?
If that is the level with a cold engine, or not screwing the cap down before it's removed and checked, it's probably overfilled.

No. 5

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Re: foamy oil
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2007, 12:18:14 AM »
That's the level on a warm engine with the cap screwed on tight.

gapl53

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Re: foamy oil
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2007, 04:51:21 PM »
Did you use a different oil than before. If you are using the same oil it's probably grabbing air from somewhere. It could be as simple as you were riding harder causing the oil to slouch around inside the engine, which caused the oil pump to grab air. If that's the case try adding oil with the engine warm to bring the level up to the full mark. Or it could be an air leak on the suction side of the pumps. Don't be surprised if you don't see any oil leaks, air will get in where oil can't get out. Make sure all the fasteners and connections are properly tighten.
Both my Classic and Electra-X are sensitive to where the oil level should be. Once I got it figured out on my Electra it has not given me any more trouble, It stays at the proper level and doesn't move. I can't say as much with the Classic.

In any case foamy oil is not good for engine life!

Good Luck!

Thumper

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Re: foamy oil
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2007, 04:58:45 PM »
I checked my oil today and it seemed much more foamy than before. Like I overfilled it. It's a half inch below full on the stick. Right where I filled it to when I changed it about 150 miles ago. Any thoughts?

It might be as simple as not giving 30 seconds to a couple of minutes prior to checking the oil level. If I remember, the manuals say to wait a bit. Maybe this is one of the reasons. I always give mine at least 30 seconds, and usually a little longer.

Matt

No. 5

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Re: foamy oil
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2007, 12:15:56 AM »
Oil is cheap. (relatively) I'll just change it again. Maybe the Castrol motorcycle oil is not compatable with what the factory/dealer put in. It took about 1.8 qts when I changed it, so there is a bit of the old stuff. I just worry that I'm only getting bubbles to the top. If I wanted to clean up the mess, could I loosen the nut at the top and see what squirts out?

Thumper

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Re: foamy oil
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2007, 02:12:24 PM »
Yep, you can loosen one of the banjo fittings while it's running to see that oil's getting up there. You can also remove the valve cover to see the oil coating.

gapl53

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Re: foamy oil
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2007, 03:32:02 PM »
Or you could loosen or remove the valve adjustment access cover to see the oil while the engine is running. But be prepared for the oil which will make a mess whatever you loosen or remove while the engine is running.

mbevo1

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Re: foamy oil
« Reply #8 on: October 01, 2007, 12:40:23 PM »
Foamy oil can indicate a common problem with the stock breather system, too... here's a solution from Tim Busby, and RE expert in New Zealand...

"A Lot of owners of post '04 bikes (Bullets and Electra X) report engine
breather problems; to which end there are several highly (expensive)
touted fixes to 'cure' the 'problem'.
Not required!

The root of the problem is the main engine breather pipe that comes off
the top of the oil tank; it is routed underneath the main frame cross
tube, then it passes underneath the battery, and curves up into the
catch can.
That very first bend in the pipe is acute, (not a good start) and then
the pipe is forced to dip down under the frame tube and battery.
There in lies the problem; that low point dip in the breather pipe
fills with oil and condensate, eventually blocking up. Slowly it is
pumped up to the catch can, in time the catch can fills with the foul
stuff. Soon all the breather lines are blocked with the excrement, and
then the oil and condensate gloop is forced into the air filter
housing...
A double helping of crap on cold soggy toast for dinner...
:-(

The cure:
Disconnect the main breather pipe completely.
Remove the main breather pipe from off the top of engine, and disconect
it from the catch can.
Turn it around so that the acute bend is no longer attached to the top
of the oil tank. (That end is now going and onto the catch can)
Instead of the breather pipe passing UNDER the frame cross tube, run it
OVER the frame and behind the battery, and back up to the catch can.
Ensure that the pipe has a constant rise in it, No dips of falls.
it will be a 'tight' fit, but it does fit...

That is half the fix.
Now any oil that is carried out from the engine with the crankcase fume
and that passes into the breather pipe is able to drain back into the
oil tank. No longer does it condense in the breather pipe and cause it
to block.

The second part of the fix has two options; one is a factory retro
upgrade for the Drain pipe that runs from the catch can back to the
timing cover.
For the Electra X it involves the fitting of a short Duck Bill breather
INSIDE the timing cover, onto the internal end of the breather pipe.
On the Classis, the upgrade involves a replacement Drain pipe with an
internal Duck Bill installed. Though both are interchangable...
This stops the engine from venting UP the Drain pipe, but allows for
any Oil that makes its way into the catch can to drain back into the
timing cover.
In reality, with the repositioned main breather pipe as described
above, next to no all whatsoever ever makes into the catch can!

So I prefer to disconnect the catch-can drain line, and blank off the
drain pipe on the fitting at the rear of the timing cover.
I simply run the drain line down to the rear chain, with a duck bill
fitting on the end of it.
Any oil that does get it to the catch-can is used to lube the chain.
Any fume expelled from the motor is still able to be recycled via the
Air-box.

In the case of the Electra X: Also disconnect the vent line from the
catch can that runs to the Primary chain case, and simply run it down
over the rear of the bike behind the gear box.
Block off the connection at the catch-can to maintained a 'Closed
circuit'.

Instant solution to the engine breather problems!
No more condensate build up in the engine or breather lines, no water
retained in the oil tank; clear breather lines at all times, and no
compromise to pollution control.
Takes about 10-15 minutes to do, and minimal cost for a secondary Duck
Bill breather to go on the end of the relocated drain line.

The net result also features in a slight drop in average crankcase
operating pressure. Oil consumption will be minimalised, and the Gloop
that used to be accumulating in the oil is free to be expelled as the
gaseous vapour the system was originally designed to handle.

Well tested and proved to work 100%.

Tim
N.Z."
'07 Classic - Stumpy
'10 C5 Military - Sherman

gapl53

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Re: foamy oil
« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2007, 02:00:07 PM »
I solved the problem on my 2006 Electra-X by removing the hose that ran between the PAV unit and the airbox. I then took the end that was connected two the PAV unit and placed it over the chain and ran the hose back across to the airbox, cut it off to the proper length and reconnected it. It solved all my oil related problems such as leaking at speed and oil consumption, and it keeps the chain lubricated the proper amount where it's not spraying all over the bike.