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Author Topic: UCE Chain Adjustment  (Read 3574 times)

Marrtyn

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UCE Chain Adjustment
« on: August 10, 2009, 01:26:28 PM »
Having just now completed a little over 800 mile's on my G5 I thought I would apply a little lub. to the chain,
On checking the adjuster cams I noticed that each cam is set differently to each other, by what seems quite a large amount (in terms of counting the No. of notches  set against the pin.
I've always assumed that both cams on each side of the wheel should be equal, e.g. the pin in the 6th. notch, on each side of the wheel.  This unequal situation must have arisen in the factory.
 Anybody else found this. (my wheels look aligned but not very easy to tell).
 Am I now to set both these came to equal on both sides of the wheel??

clubman

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2009, 02:51:51 PM »
What is straight line stability like? If it looks aligned and handles OK then I would adjust by exactly the same amount on each side for now, thus leaving the difference as is. I'd then try to double check alignment - not something I ever found easy using a bit of string and all that stuff you read. Certainly if it's way out it's easy enough to see anyway.

Rusty

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2009, 04:30:04 PM »
Mine were miles out compared to each other. Only had reason to check when I took my hands off the bars at about 40mph and the bike veered to the right.

I equalled them and it did improve things but it's still not right so I need to do it properly with a straight edge. Snail cams are never really accurate so don't be surprised if you have different settings on each side but it shouldn't be too far out (all of the new bikes at the open day were set equally).

While you're at it have some fun and watch the swing arm move about when you apply the rear brake ;D

t120rbullet

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2009, 05:45:18 PM »
The cams on my 99 are 4 notches off when the wheel is properly aligned.
I'd never count on those things to give you an accurate idea of where your wheel is supposed to be.

I use either a 6 foot piece of rigid conduit or a laser level depending on which one I find first and have my kid hold the bike up because you can't do it with the centerstand down. Once you get it put a dot on the cam with a centerpunch and that will keep you in the ballpark next time.

Down at the Rally at the River a few years back I was riding behind a guy and when I was straight back from him I could see half the front tire sticking out the left side of the rear tire (dog tracking).
As he was riding his back was tilted to the right to compensate for the lean or the bike.
When we got back I told him about it and we adjusted it and had to go 5 more notches on right side to make the rear wheel straight.
He had put over 50K on that Bullet like that and never realized how out of whack it was and how comfortable it could be if his back wasn't making a right turn right off the seat.
CJ
1999 Enfield 500 Black Deluxe "Silver"
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5 Classic "G2" "SOLD"
2012 Concours 14 (no name yet)
2013 Royal Star Venture S  "Jelly Roll"

ERC

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2009, 06:06:26 PM »
CJ is absolutly right you have to align the wheels with a straight edge or laser.The cams can be any amount off when it's aligned properly.  ERC
2-57 Apaches, 2-57 Trailblazers, 60 Chief, 65 Interceptor, 2004 Bullet, 612 Bullet chopped.

Marrtyn

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2009, 08:17:53 AM »
Thanks for all the info/advice guys.
The bike feels as though it is handling OK, but it
looks as though I will have to go looking for a nice straight edge now.(to be sure)
I suppose it makes you wonder then, why they bother to put the snail cams on then!!

thefieldworker

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2009, 11:20:52 AM »
I'm an Enfield rookie, my last bike was shaft driven, and the last bike I had that needed chain adjustment was done by pulling back the wheel (no cams, eyeballing alignment). So I haven't yet done a chain adjustment for my G5 yet. Here's my rookie question - when the manual says remove "brake rod nut," does that mean the nut on the end of the brake rod? Why must I remove it?
Thanks for the help.

Rusty

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2009, 12:21:28 PM »
I'm an Enfield rookie, my last bike was shaft driven, and the last bike I had that needed chain adjustment was done by pulling back the wheel (no cams, eyeballing alignment). So I haven't yet done a chain adjustment for my G5 yet. Here's my rookie question - when the manual says remove "brake rod nut," does that mean the nut on the end of the brake rod? Why must I remove it?
Thanks for the help.

Yes it does and you don't really have to remove it, just slacken it off a fair bit. If you don't and you're pulling the wheel backwards it'll have the effect of applying the rear brake which at best will make it difficult to move the wheel or at worst will leave you with a rubbing brake once you've finished the chain adjustment.

Marrtyn

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2009, 02:44:42 PM »
Yes ---also the h/book also says 25/30 mm of slackness on the top run. Should this read bottom run??

Chris-G5

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #9 on: August 12, 2009, 06:47:48 PM »
Before I tightened the chain, the cam on the chain side was at the 7th notch and the one on the left was on the 10th notch. I tighten the chain moving the right cam to the 9th notch. I then used a straight edge (8' steel pipe)) to align the front and rear wheels which required moving the left cam back a spot to the 9th notch. So both cams are set equally and the wheels are aligned perfectly.

Marrtyn

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2009, 03:13:40 PM »
That sounds good to me Chris, Just as I thought it should be.
I always think that the design of something should work as intended.
I'm off now to find a straight edge;
---but is the slackness on the top run, as per the book, or the bottom run??

r80rt

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #11 on: August 13, 2009, 04:35:22 PM »
The snail cams on my C5 adjust equally, I got lucky I guess.
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Chris-G5

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2009, 07:17:42 AM »
---but is the slackness on the top run, as per the book, or the bottom run??
Not sure about that. I really didn't measure. I tried the 10th notch and it was to tight with minimal slack. So I moved it to the 9th notch and that seemed good.

t120rbullet

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2009, 07:35:27 AM »
Don't forget to check it while your sitting on the bike.
They do tighten up with a load on em.
CJ
1999 Enfield 500 Black Deluxe "Silver"
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5 Classic "G2" "SOLD"
2012 Concours 14 (no name yet)
2013 Royal Star Venture S  "Jelly Roll"

Marrtyn

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #14 on: August 28, 2009, 09:54:37 AM »
Just got down to this chain adjustment business, after now completing 1158 miles.
I found as reported before the RH cam set at 8 notches and the LH cam at 12 notches.

Have adjusted now so both cams are on the 10th notch, with what appears the right ammount of slack (dam-did'nt check with me on the seat -have to check again).
Found it difficult to check for "dead-on wheel alighnment", but it looks OK from where I'm standing.
As I see it without some methode of ensuring that the front wheel is in the dead ahead position, then its harder still to alighn with the back wheel, even with a straight edge, - perhaps some sort of clamping arrangement onto the front wheel,-- oh, I dont know --it looks OK to me!!!  It's not precision engineering is it?

Regarding the running, after the recall, all is well in the land of Enfield.
Still running in but increasing speeds to arround 60 + now for short bursts. The sounds from the exhaust --great, and pulls very well. Love to drop a notch , and gun past a slower moving vehicle, even my daughter (36) loves the sound of the engine.

t120rbullet

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #15 on: August 28, 2009, 11:26:10 AM »

Found it difficult to check for "dead-on wheel alighnment", but it looks OK from where I'm standing.


There is nothing to see really.
First adjust the chain until it's right and tighten the larger of the 2 nuts down.
Have someone else sit on the bike and hold the the bike up and hold the front wheel straight. Take your straight edge and push it up to the rear tire (front and back) and note how far it is from the front tire.
Then do the same to the other side.
The distance from your straight edge to the front tire should be fairly even on both sides.
If it's 4 inches away when you check one side and right up to the tire on the other side then you need to cock the rear tire over until they even up.
Adjust the tire back and forth using the cam on the opposite side as the chain adjustment.
When you get it right check your chain again.
CJ
1999 Enfield 500 Black Deluxe "Silver"
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5 Classic "G2" "SOLD"
2012 Concours 14 (no name yet)
2013 Royal Star Venture S  "Jelly Roll"

Vince

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #16 on: August 28, 2009, 11:51:53 AM »
     You can check chain alignment much easier. Use a 12" ruler or your eye. Check the bottom run of the chain where it comes off the rear sprocket. Look for a little kink or angle in the chain where the chain leaves the sprocket. If your eye or the ruler finds a kink, straighten it out and you are done.
     There are tools, including lasers, you can use, but unless you have 100 HP on tap or travel 150MPH around Daytona Speedway you will not notice any difference in wear or handling. Certainly you should align it. but laser precision is not really necessary in this application.

UncleErnie

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #17 on: August 28, 2009, 06:56:05 PM »
Regarding the chain tightness- I find that I can't check it by myself because the bike has a fair amount of sag when I sit on it.  In other words- it looks too loose but when i sit on it (rather- I have a friend sit on it)- the chain is perfecto.  You don't want a chain too tight because it will cause extra wear on the transmission.  

I was taught to check the lower run.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2009, 09:18:56 PM by UncleErnie »
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Marrtyn

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #18 on: August 29, 2009, 09:15:02 AM »
Thanks for all the info. guys.
Yes I always thought the lower run, but the good book says upper run, hence the initial debate. :-\

Geirskogul

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #19 on: August 29, 2009, 10:52:05 PM »
My manual has a diagram depicting the lower run of the chain, which is good because the upper one is behind the guard.

Aligning is pretty straightforward - my cams are three notches apart and the bike tracks true.
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The Garbone

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #20 on: August 30, 2009, 07:27:19 AM »
I use my laser level for this, have to use it for something.   On a side note the batteries in my level are over 10 years old and the thing still works like a champ..  Why can't my TV remotes last that long?
Gary
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Leonard

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #21 on: August 30, 2009, 07:33:12 AM »
I use my laser level for this, have to use it for something.   On a side note the batteries in my level are over 10 years old and the thing still works like a champ..  Why can't my TV remotes last that long?

Real Classic has an article on this subject that may be of interest to you.
http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/wheelalignment.html
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t120rbullet

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #22 on: August 30, 2009, 08:25:22 AM »
I use my laser level for this, have to use it for something.   On a side note the batteries in my level are over 10 years old and the thing still works like a champ..  Why can't my TV remotes last that long?

Because you watch too much TV?
1999 Enfield 500 Black Deluxe "Silver"
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5 Classic "G2" "SOLD"
2012 Concours 14 (no name yet)
2013 Royal Star Venture S  "Jelly Roll"

Marrtyn

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #23 on: September 02, 2009, 08:01:17 AM »
Like the lazer, Len. Going to make one. Thanks.

Marrtyn

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #24 on: September 17, 2009, 02:45:51 PM »
Found after, with my attempted chain adjusting, that I found/heared the chain intermittently clicking!!
So I assumed it was out of alignment. Therefore messed around with the cams until the clicking stopped, and it transpired that the difference in notches, between left and right, was back to its original setting (i.e. not the same ), be it, that both cams were now on a tighter setting of one notch, than originally set.

Chris-G5

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #25 on: October 15, 2009, 08:04:56 PM »
In the service manual it says " Check and ensure that the number of notches from the punch mark on the cam to the notch resting on the pin are equal on both sides"

Chris-G5

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #26 on: October 15, 2009, 08:13:50 PM »
Also be sure to use some loc-tite on, and tighten good the anchor nut. MIne vibrated off and luckily I noticed it while putting on my new muffler.

Scott Gilmore

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Re: UCE Chain Adjustment
« Reply #27 on: December 12, 2009, 06:07:41 PM »
Like the lazer, Len. Going to make one. Thanks.
That's a pretty trick rig to adjust your bike's chain.

If you prefer low tech that's certainly accurate enough and costs a whole lot less, cut yourself a ~10 or ~12 foot piece of string.  With the bike on the center stand, wrap the halfway point of the string around the back tire somewhere around about 4 or 5 o`clock viewed from the chain side.  Now pull the string forward on either side of the bike taught and look at the point on either side where the string passes the rear tire at about 7 or 8 o`clock.  You'll be able to easily see if the rear wheel is cocked.

But you could use lasers too, I guess.

Regards,
Scott Gilmore