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Author Topic: Engine Problems  (Read 7643 times)

Ofcalipka

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #15 on: October 28, 2007, 12:47:15 PM »
Okay,

It seems as though the impression is I did not break in my RE properly.  This is the details of how I broke it in.  Please tell me what I did wrong.

Upon purchasing the bike new from the dealer I first read the operators manual that came with the bike.  I then drove it about 1000 miles not exceeding 35 MPH.  During this time the EGR tube melted so I had the dealer remove it entirely.  At 500 miles I had the oil changed and 500 mile maintenance done at the dealer.  I have always used starting at this oil change Penzoil 20W-50 oil.  I drove it another 500 miles not exceeding 45 MPH.  During this time the valves gave up and had to be replaced by the dealer.  I got it back drove it at 35 MPH for another 50 miles and then started the 45 top speed again.  After this I gradually began to take it on short trips on the freeway not exceeding 55 MPH ever.  During this run I again had to have the valves rebuilt for some unknown reason.  When I got to about 2100 miles on the bike the piston broke apart while I was traveling at about 35 MPH on a level roadway sending bits of metal thoughout the inner workings of the bike pretty much destroying the whole engine and for some unknown reason the transmission was stuck in a false neutral between 4th and 5th gear.  I took it to the dealer who changed out the whole motor as he felt the original one was beyond repair.

About 6-7 months later the new engine and transmission were finally installed and I had the dealer install the performance silencer and re-jet the carb at this time.  He also did the modification to the breather I mentioned before at this time as well.  This time I rode about 1500 miles not exceeding 35 MPH again changing oil at 500 and 1500 miles.  I then began to ride it not exceeding 45 MPH for another 500 miles during which time the head had to be rebuilt again.  I got it back from the dealer and drove about 10 miles not exceeding 35 before the valves gave up again and it needed another replacement of the valves.  After driving it around for about a week the front bolt on the fuel tank worked its way off somehow and the rear brackets then snapped off from the stress leaving me riding suddenly without a fuel tank after going over a bump in the road.  I got it back drove it for 50 miles or so at 35 then another 500 or so miles at 45 before again attempting the freeway.  During this 45 MPH max run the performance silencers baffle fell apart for no apparent reason leaving me with a large chrome rattle so I reinstalled the OEM silencer on the bike until I could afford a replacement.  At about 4200 miles on the odemeter again the engine burned up its valves after I drove it the 20 miles into work about 15 of which were at speeds of 45-55.

So where did I go wrong?

I now no longer have any warranty for the bike and am going to finally try fixing it myself and am hoping the the performance parts will hold up better than the OEM one's have.  Maybe its just the Hawaii roads out here that are eating this bike up or maybe Murphy has a special interest in me with the RE, I just don't know. 

Anyways, what I want to know is do you all think the performance modifications I have described before are enough, to little, or should I take Matilda here down to the Army's artillery range and post the video of what happens on youtube?

That last option is not really where I want to go but it would be more entertaining than waiting for a tow wagon on the side of the road again.

Aloha
"There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot." - Steven Wright

2005 Royal Enfeild Bullet 500 Military,
2006 HD Springer softail 1450,
1980 Puch Maxi,
1995 Ural 650
1978 Peugeot 103 SP
2000 BMW R 1150 RT P

Wahiawa,  HI

RagMan

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2007, 03:21:29 PM »
Sounds like you got a whole lemon tree.  I do not know why two engines would have problems, unless your neighbors have been putting sand in your oil.
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
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luoma

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #17 on: October 28, 2007, 05:24:26 PM »
I don't know why your bike shop mechanics claim they don't understand the RE engine. Anyone who understands a lawnmower motor can pretty much understand the RE. Today's modern bikes are so complicated that if a mechanic can't work on an Enfield, I wouldn't let him touch anything of mine.

dewjantim

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #18 on: October 28, 2007, 09:28:50 PM »
Mods sound good to me, but I would add that bigger front sprocket. Be sure and use the HD oil pump also. I haven't heard of any failures caused by people using them. I broke my RE in easily also.......yup.....60+ mph from day one. Adjusted valves, points, carb several times up to 1500 mile mark. Bike now has almost 6000 miles and it might be ready for a valve adjustment. Lots of loose nuts and bolts and had to check oil after every all day run. It runs great and starts on first kick (usually). My usual cruising speed is 60-65 mph (indicated) on the big road and 45-55 on the backroads. It will run 70-80 for bursts of 5-10 miles. Will also keep up with 650-750 Bonnies with no problem. All you doubters can show up at the Blue Ridge Ride next May and see, hahaha. Sounds like your bike either got hot from being jetted to lean (REs like it rich) or you ran it low on oil causing the valve failure. Also, make sure the timing is correct. That can burn a bike up in no time. Don't give up on your RE, good luck......Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!

Ofcalipka

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #19 on: October 28, 2007, 10:06:28 PM »
She might be a whole lemon tree but you can't make lemonaid without a whole bunch of lemons.  MMM, that sugary tart goodness.

Also I don't think there was sabotage as I have seen no evidence of such yet either.  I don't think anyone would try something stupid like that as most people who know me also know that I have a .303 Enfield #1 mk 4 (SMLE) security system to go along with my bike.  Just wish I could find one of those old WW2 mounts for it to put on Matilda.  He he he.  Hmm, maybe thats whats wrong with the bike, its missing this essential part.

As far as the mechanics, well, I think that they just do not want to work on RE cause they are into Harley's and the like.  Dominic was the only one into the RE's God bless him and he is greatly missed now.

Dew, thanks for the input  I'll also try to richen up the carb a little more with the performance mods and I think I will get that sprocket after next payday.  Any tips on how to lap the HO oil pump in.  I never did that before got a good idea but won't turn down the advice and wisdom of those who already know what to do.

"Wisdom doesn't automatically come with old age. Nothing does - except wrinkles. It's true, some wines improve with age. But only if the grapes were good in the first place." - Abigail Van Buren

Aloha
"There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot." - Steven Wright

2005 Royal Enfeild Bullet 500 Military,
2006 HD Springer softail 1450,
1980 Puch Maxi,
1995 Ural 650
1978 Peugeot 103 SP
2000 BMW R 1150 RT P

Wahiawa,  HI

Foggy_Auggie

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #20 on: October 28, 2007, 10:17:17 PM »
Sounds like a carb main jet problem.

And I have to ask - was your Pennz 20W50 oil for a car?  Only use oil formulated for air cooled motorcycles.  I would look for 10W50.  My dealer does not recommend the Harley blends using 20W50 oils in an RE.

Reading the spark plug after a hot shut down (don't let it idle - hit the kill switch while pulling over) the plug porcelain should be a medium coffee tan in color.  Reading plugs is a great indicator of carb jetting.  White slate gray porcelain - it's too lean.  Dark chocolate and damp - it's too rich.  The Champion website had an excellent picture chart on reading plugs.  I haven't checked it in awhile.

Too rich a mixture never hurts a 4 stroke engine unless the oil is flushed off the rings and cylinder bore.  Too lean a mixture can be suicide for any engine.

Wrong ignition timing and carb jetting can cause detonation in the advance or high heat in the retard.  And the sound of detonation could be masked by the engine sounds and wind at highway speeds - until the piston goes.

It also sounds like the threads on the pushrod adjusters could be stripped or aren't locked securely with the jam nuts.  The valve lash appears to be going out of whack while the engine is running from what you said.  Or the lash is improperly set.  Kind of hard to tell without being there with you.

And watch all the nuts and bolts on any motorcycle.

Good luck!

Regards, Foggy
Diagonally parked in a parallel universe.

Fortiter Et Fideliter

deejay

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #21 on: October 28, 2007, 10:18:41 PM »
look on the bright side... you LIVE in Hawaii.

Ofcalipka

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #22 on: October 28, 2007, 10:40:32 PM »
Well you are all welcome to come on over for a ride as I seem to be the lone RE rider in Hawaii.  However I think that might possibly be the most expensive rally ever.  Mind it now the ride would be amazing and beautiful.  Nothing quite like the 50 or so mile round island ride of never ending beaches and bikinis.  Yet another reason I don't go fast and have a sore neck.  And yes the entire round robin ride can be done without touching the freeway or exceeding 45.  Hopefully in few months they will have this interisland ferry nonsense sorted out and I can start riding to the neighbor islands as well. 
"There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot." - Steven Wright

2005 Royal Enfeild Bullet 500 Military,
2006 HD Springer softail 1450,
1980 Puch Maxi,
1995 Ural 650
1978 Peugeot 103 SP
2000 BMW R 1150 RT P

Wahiawa,  HI

dewjantim

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #23 on: October 29, 2007, 02:55:53 PM »
You can use fine grit sandpaper to lap those oil pumps, even though they may not need it. Maybe RE#1 could give us some input on this. Bought my HD pumps a while back and have been buying go-fast stuff for a few years when it was on sale. Just a few more goodies and I will be ready to turn my RE into a 30+ hp (I hope) monster. So I haven't installed the pumps yet.....Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!

Coronach

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #24 on: October 29, 2007, 03:44:51 PM »
Quote
I have a .303 Enfield #1 mk 4 (SMLE) security system to go along with my bike.  Just wish I could find one of those old WW2 mounts for it to put on Matilda.  He he he.  Hmm, maybe thats whats wrong with the bike, its missing this essential part
Three Lee-Enfiields here, but no RE to put them on (yet). Let me know if you find a mount. I'll need one, too. :D
Columbus, OH
2008 Black Classic ES "Last One"
1050 miles on the clock
OH! ... IO!

RagMan

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #25 on: October 29, 2007, 04:29:19 PM »
I never thought of putting my Enfield 303s onto the bike.. good idea.
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
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Jefferson County, WA

scoTTy

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #26 on: October 29, 2007, 07:55:15 PM »
i don't get it Man.. My o7 pUrrS

 soRRy Ure havN problems... with yUrs.. hope U get them ironed out.  :(

 I finally was able to start mine with the kick starter.. the rest of the time I was just circulating the oil..:P  which is probabaly a good thing  ;D

 I like the thumb switch better.... 8)

there I stand in mid air thinking.. i should have used the decompression release :o

 we need pictures of U on uRe Enfield.. crUzN the isLanD   
« Last Edit: October 29, 2007, 08:00:21 PM by scotty »

Ofcalipka

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #27 on: October 29, 2007, 09:41:04 PM »
I took the head down to my machinist today and he told me that it wasn't the valve that was bent after all.  What I hadn't noticed maybe because I was so upset about it breaking down again.  Was that the valve seat had worked its way loose somehow and was now jammed in crooked.  He is going to try and put it back in right and see if it looks like it will work.  Doesn't appear damaged just not in right. 

Anyone have any idea's as to how this could have happened?

One of my friends has a 42 Harley WLA and he has a leather holster mounted on the right side of the forks for a tommy gun.  I wonder if the British had something similar for the Enfield rifle.  Sounds like a topic for another post.

Scotty, I have posted some pictures of my RE around the island here.  I'll post more when I have more.  Glad to hear you got yours to start with the kick.  Mine has always kicked real easy when it runs.
"There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot." - Steven Wright

2005 Royal Enfeild Bullet 500 Military,
2006 HD Springer softail 1450,
1980 Puch Maxi,
1995 Ural 650
1978 Peugeot 103 SP
2000 BMW R 1150 RT P

Wahiawa,  HI

Kevin Mahoney

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #28 on: October 29, 2007, 10:46:42 PM »
Valve seats can come out - butr WARNING be very careful and suspicious of using the old one. The seats are an interference fit into the head. If it came out once what is to prevent it from coming out again. Locktite makes some stuff that is supposed to pretty good at locking things together (high strength stuff like sleeves) and I have no idea if this is a proper use for it or not.
  Common practice is to get a new valve seat with a slightly larger outside diameter and flycut the head slightly larger so you can control the interference fit. This is how out HP heads are done. You don't want this to happen again.

Ofcalipka

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Re: Engine Problems
« Reply #29 on: October 29, 2007, 11:35:19 PM »
Since several parts I ordered are on back order.  I figured to try and just get it running for now if possible and put all the parts in one time when they come in.  If the machinist I use says its good to go I'll reinstall the head and ride it slow until all my parts come in.
"There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot." - Steven Wright

2005 Royal Enfeild Bullet 500 Military,
2006 HD Springer softail 1450,
1980 Puch Maxi,
1995 Ural 650
1978 Peugeot 103 SP
2000 BMW R 1150 RT P

Wahiawa,  HI