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Author Topic: Leaks after re-assembling case.  (Read 1612 times)

HRAB

  • I should really edit this
  • Grease Monkey
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Leaks after re-assembling case.
« on: November 05, 2007, 05:00:14 PM »
A customer called with a problem of oil leaking from the left hand shift shaft where it passes trough the engine case. He had used the Overhaul gasket kit 112050. It turns out the kit contains the crankcase joint gasket for a 4spd engne. We have corrected the kit problem and sent the customer the correct gasket. Photo attached: 4spd and 5spd gaskets.

However, another loyal Bulleteer offered an elegant solution to the problem that dosen't require separating the cases again to correct the leak. He suggests using "O" rings to seal the shaft. The entire tread is listed below.


> Anybody out there have some digital images of the Cases split on a Five
> Speed?
> I just put mine together and am afraid that I put a 4 speed gasket in.
> Seeping massive oil out the shifting shaft.
>
Man, I wasn't gonna EVER admit this to nobody, 'cause it was so fookin' stoopid
when I did
it. Now I gots company. Thank yuh vurry much!
Yes Virginia, there is no gasket for the shifter tunnel on the 4-speed gasket,
as the 4
speed ain't GOT said tunnel. I don't know if there's a 5 speed gasket, as I put
in the wrong
one. Th' tunnel in question is the one that runs thru th' oil tank, bigger than
the bolt holes.
Ya gotta make a gasket washer for it, which I didn't, 'cause I had a attack of
the fookin'
STOOPIDS that day.
http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/royalenfield/photos/view/f34a?b=28
http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/royalenfield/photos/view/f34a?b=29
Ain't it a GREAT feelin' to see oil pourin' out both sides of the oil tank? Ya
sorta want to get
up on top of th' water tower with a deer rifle!
DISPAIR NOT! There's a fix. I found the leak after reinstalling the motor in the
frame, and
there was NO FOOKIN' WAY I was pulling it again.
Take off the offside gearbox cover. Find the shifter shaft and measure in from
its end to
the joint face of the two cases. Remove the shaft, I think you have to drill a
rivet which you
will replace with a bolt. Mark the position of the case junction on the shifter
shaft.
Now, I didn't keep the dimensions, 'cause I wasn't EVER gonna admit this to
nobody. Go to
a good hardware store and get some rubber "O" rings about 1/8" thick, with an ID
that
would have 1/2 the thickness inside the shaft diameter, 1/2 the thickness
outside the
diameter.
Put the shifter shaft in a lathe, grind a 1/8" bullnose cutting tool, and cut 4
grooves for
the "O" rings, 1" and 2" outboard of the case joint mark on the rod. You could
also use a
small round file against the (slowly) turning rod. You want the groove 1/2 the
"O" ring
thickness deep. Install the rings, grease, and reassemble carefully.
You might even be able to do this with a round file in a drill press.
This confines the oil to the area in the shaft tunnel inside the "O" rings. I
could tell no
difference in shifting effort, and it never leaked again.
Deepest sympathies and all that chit.

DWM

I just found my notes on this job, and Summbitch, I DID save the dimensions!
The "O" ring is a #8- 9/16"x3/8"x3/32", Buna rubber. I turned the grooves to
give a final
OD that would run slightly compressed in the shaft tunnel. About 15mm. The shaft
tunnel
is bored, not cast, and is quite smooth.
DWM



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