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Author Topic: clutch  (Read 2434 times)

kiwibilly

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clutch
« on: November 13, 2007, 07:11:22 AM »
Gday All
I have a 1989 350 and a 1999 500
The 350 clutch is dragging ,I think,
When I put the bike into gear
The bike wants to go forward
with the clutch in.
Ive ordered a manual which may take some
time to get to me and I m just looking for
a tip on where to find the adjustment procedure
so that myself and my brother in law can get
out for a spin this weekend.
Thanks to all
Kiwibilly

Ratty57

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Re: clutch
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2007, 07:51:07 AM »
First loosen off all in line cable and lever adjusters, open the little inspection disc in the middle of the gearbox, there is a screw and a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut, tighten the screw to 0 clearance, when you start to feel some resistance back it off a 1/4 turn, re-tighten the lock nut (make sure the screw doesn't move). Reset your adjusters in line and at the lever and with a bit of luck you should be good to go.

  As i side not if its not dragging to bad you may be able to get away with just adjusting the inline adjusters but at some point soon you will need to go through the steps above.

Hope this helps

Ratty

kiwibilly

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Re: clutch
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2007, 02:26:31 AM »
Thanks Ratty
I applied the adjustments and I am unable to test them
as the 350 will not start.I have spent most of today
trying to sort out timimng when I note the top screw on the
timing plate is stripped which has allowed the timing to go out.
I think the strip has happened before I bought it and Im thinking I
should go to a boyer system.My nearest mechanic is a hour and
a half away.So I load up and take her in my Work Van.

To top it off my 500 started a kangaroo hop yesterday.
I took off the carb and gave it a clean although there was not
much dirt.Reassembled and now the 500 will not go.

Can I get the 350 and the 500 in the van at one time?
Nope.
I dont even know where to start with this.
Its a sad looking shed with those 2 going nowhere

mrunderhill1975a

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Re: clutch
« Reply #3 on: November 19, 2007, 12:18:19 AM »
the top screw on the
timing plate is stripped which has allowed the timing to go out.

Our host has a distributor points thread repair kit on page 138 of the CMW catelog.  Kevin says it is a permanent repair that can be accomplished in 5 minutes.  Anyone use this kit and how did it work for you?

t120rbullet

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Re: clutch
« Reply #4 on: November 19, 2007, 01:14:12 AM »
Our host has a distributor points thread repair kit on page 138 of the CMW catelog.  Kevin says it is a permanent repair that can be accomplished in 5 minutes.  Anyone use this kit and how did it work for you?

I didn't try the fix you are asking about but I fixed both of mine with 10-32 helicoils.
Don't know if them "newer ones" are metric or not.
1999 Enfield 500 Black Deluxe "Silver"
2012 Concours 14 (no name yet)
2013 Royal Star Venture S  "Jelly Roll"

LotusSevenMan

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Re: clutch
« Reply #5 on: November 19, 2007, 06:28:56 PM »
I'm sure Kevin or Rhett will be along in a while to say how much they do it for and if it's in their stock etc cos they appear to be red hot on this sort of stuff but here is a small pic of a UK repair kit that comes with a suitable tap etc to ensure an easy job. Must be basically the same thing!



Good luck!
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
Honda VTR FireStorm (SuperHawk) 996cc 'V' twin
Kawasaki KR1 250cc twin 'stroker
Ducati 916 'L' twin

kiwibilly

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Re: clutch
« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2007, 12:31:55 AM »
Gday
Having kept the faith
I managed to get the 500 working.
I obtained ( parts are good to get here)
new condenser,points and plug.
I didnt mention I have only had the 500
3 weeks.I guess the old parts had done
their dash.After installing I gave an exploratory kick
with the plug against the cylinder.Just as well
I had my shades on.What is commonally known
as an Enfield thermonucleur blast convinced me
that the problem was about solved.
Sure enough "The Roar" was heard again in these parts.
well pleased.
I took the 350 to "The Mechanic" He had been on a run
with The Enfield Club on the Sunday.
You will not believe he has bought one of the
CHPS Kawasaki Police Bikes.from the
good old USA.As far as I can gather its one of
the originals."The Mechanic" is a collector
and he has a Triumph and a BMW bike
as well as E type Jag and other British cars
from the 60s.All in mint condition.
Anyway he was working on a 500 which
had come to a halt on their run.
He had pillioned the unfortunate 500 owner
back on the CHPS bike.The cylinder had been
stripped down and the piston was in 2 bits.
Miraculously no damage other than some
shavings and gritty bits
in the sump.It made my problems with the 350
seem very humble.He did mention that this was the second
occurence of this nature this year.
The upshot is the 350 will be repaired shortly
The Mechanic mentioning to me about being able
to retap etc.So I will have the 2 bikes organised for
when my Brother comes out from Scotland for
a holiday in Feb 2008and we intend to do an eight day
trip here there and everywhere.
In the meantime thanks everybody for the  positive
comments and helpful suggestions.
Regards
Billy

Blackthou

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Re: clutch
« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2007, 09:55:55 PM »
I have just bought a  1yr 350 Classic with 500 miles and clutch drag. My clutch doesn't seeem to disengage when adjusted as above. The only way i can get it to feel right was as follows.
On centre stand, engine off, put into 1st gear.
Pull in clutch, wheel not free to turn and clutch lever feels ineffective.
Screwed in centre adjuster until clutch would make wheel free to turn.
Clutch feels normal, wheel turns when pulled in and progressively bites as clutch let out. No slip on kickstarting but no freeplay at lever.
Haven't road tested yet but concerned about no clearance on lever and amount centre screw is screwed in.

Your thoughts and comments please

baird4444

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  • 2003 ES 500... 38,416 miles, I'm done
Re: clutch
« Reply #8 on: November 23, 2007, 04:31:52 AM »
You've got the right idea if when you say center screw you are meaning the adjustment on the right hand side behind the little round cover.
The following is a saved post from Tim in N.Z.; in my files that has served me well.
- Mike
<  >  <  >  <  >  <  >  <  >  <  > 
  "I have found the clutch adjustment very very fine... A difference of 1/8 of a turn on the adjustment nut makes the difference between slip and drag. Make sure that you cable is not kinked, well lubricated, and runs as straight as you can possible achieve. Do not over fill the primary case with oil; just enough oil to cover the bottom run of the chain on the clutch chain wheel. Do not use engine oil! Loosen off the cable adjuster, adjust the push rod clearance so that it just touches the rod, back it of 1/8 of a turn and carefully tighten the lock nut. Then take up the slack in the cable.
 Assuming that your plates are still serviceable,
 if it still slips, back the adjuster off another 1/8 of a turn. If it drags when hot, increase by 1/8 of a turn.
Tim N.Z. "
"You can't drink all day if you don't start in the morning!! "
        -Cody Baird
'My dear you are ugly,
 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
 - Winston Churchill

LotusSevenMan

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Re: clutch
« Reply #9 on: November 23, 2007, 07:45:13 AM »
Do not use engine oil!

Is the source of wisdom saying that it's best to use ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) then? I have heard the arguement both ways for and against this & 20W50 etc so what's best ?  ???
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
Honda VTR FireStorm (SuperHawk) 996cc 'V' twin
Kawasaki KR1 250cc twin 'stroker
Ducati 916 'L' twin

C.C.

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Re: clutch
« Reply #10 on: November 23, 2007, 04:20:44 PM »
Do not use engine oil!

Is the source of wisdom saying that it's best to use ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) then? I have heard the arguement both ways for and against this & 20W50 etc so what's best ?  ???

My bike was set up with ATF  from the dealer. I continue to use ATF type F and the clutch works great. No drag or slip and not affected by temp changes.
2006 Bullet Sixty 5
Member: Royal Enfield Association #11

Blackthou

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Re: clutch - sorted
« Reply #11 on: November 25, 2007, 06:27:03 PM »
Stripped clutch completely yesterday as I wanted to make sure the centre hub nut was not loose. Nut was ok. As clutch is "budget" the bonding off the corks is basic and there was a surplus of adhesive on the O/D and bore of the plates. Cleaned excess off and also cleaned grooves (so they were present) between segments to aid oil flinging. Steel plates are a "rough" pressing with a sharp edge on the back side of the pressing. Chamfered bore, tangs and O/D of metal plates and now they slide smoothly on the centre hub. The removal of the burrs will also make for a smoother operation and longer life.
Removed all three rods and ball. Cleaned, greased and refitted. The order in manual shows long rod, long rod, ball and short rod but mine had the ball between the 2 long rods. Length wise should not make any difference but the position of the ball relative in its bore might, so reassembled as per manual.
Adjusted clutch with primary cover off so I could check operation during set up. Set clutch up till centre screw just touched and backed off 1/8 turn. Have about 1/16 free play at bar lever. Operation of clutch now silky smooth (unlike before).
Reassembled and filled with oil drained out as was clean and debris free. Road tested bike today and now fantastic. Perfect gear changes, no slip nor drag. Whole operation including all the drerssing of the friction and non friction plates, reasssembly and clearing up 3 hours. Very satisfactory and worthwhile.

LotusSevenMan

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Re: clutch
« Reply #12 on: November 26, 2007, 11:46:07 PM »
Blackthou
Very satisfying to get it all working well eh? It's when you spend hours doing something that makes no difference at all that you start to 'lose-it' a bit I find !!!!!!!  :o
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
Honda VTR FireStorm (SuperHawk) 996cc 'V' twin
Kawasaki KR1 250cc twin 'stroker
Ducati 916 'L' twin

kiwibilly

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Re: clutch
« Reply #13 on: December 06, 2007, 07:39:07 AM »
Gday all
Just an update
Specially for blackthou
My 350 had the clutch replaced by the mechanic.
One of the steel plates was saucer like.
The timing was adjusted and a new plug. put in

I dont understand why but the 350 now achieves 110kph
was 95 or thereabouts.

So Im well pleased and once again a Believer!
Cheers
Kiwibilly

Blackthou

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Re: clutch
« Reply #14 on: December 08, 2007, 05:13:08 PM »
Hi kiwi,
Glad you're sorted. 110kph sounds good.  What do you other guys get out of yours?