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Author Topic: How to Kick-Start a Royal Enfield  (Read 12619 times)
Kevin Mahoney
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« on: July 15, 2007, 02:23:20 PM »

Starting the Royal Enfield Motorcycle

This procedure really works.  Anyone large or small, novice or experienced can do this, it is REALLY IMPORTANT that you follow the instructions they do make a difference. It will take longer to read this than it will to do the procedure, but please read it all.

1. Make certain that the "kill" switch is in the "on" or "run" position. This switch is located by the throttle, on the right side of the bike. (Sounds dumb, but I have missed this step more than once myself).

2. Turn the fuel tap to the "on position". Make sure that there is plenty of fuel in the tank. When the arm of the fuel tap is pointing toward the ground it is on. When it is horizontal it is in the "off" position. When the arm points upward it is in the "reserve" position.

3. If the engine is cold, push down on the gold colored choke lever. It is located on the right side of the bike about where your knee is. On the Lean-Burn engines such as those found in the Electra the choke is a knob that needs to be pulled out.

4. Engage the compression release. This is the lever on the underside of the left hand handlebar switches (pre-1999 1//2), or just to the right of the left hand handlebar switches.. It is engaged by pushing it forward (pre-1999 1/2) or pulling it toward you (all other models).

5. With the compression release engaged, kick the bike through 3 times. This "primes" the engine. (Optional, but I think it helps a cold engine)

6. Turn the ignition switch on by turning the key to the right.

7. With the switch turned on, choke on, the throttle closed, and the compression release engaged, gently move the kick start lever and note the movement of the ammeter gauge. (*For those of you with Electronic ignition bikes like the Electra see below). It will deflect to the left and then come back to the center. As you slowly turn the engine over, watch for the ammeter to deflect to the left. Now move it a little more until it just comes back to the middle. This middle position means that the piston is poised exactly where it should be for starting.

8. Now the moment of truth. Release the compression release lever and kick the bike through. When kicking, strength is not the key. A small woman can start the bike with the correct technique. The key is a long kick with good follow through. Kick it until the top of your shoe hits the foot peg. 9 times out of 10,the bike will start in the last 3" of movement.

9. If the engine is hot from being very recently run, you can omit steps 3, 4, and,5 .

10. If the bike doesn't start, repeat steps 7 and 8. (If bike is "hot" do not use the choke, if it is just "warm " you may need it) You MUST position the piston properly through the use of the ammeter.(for all non-electronic ignition bikes) A natural inclination (especially if people are watching you) is to start kicking blindly without using steps 7 and 8. This is a route to total frustration and a complete loss of your manhood.( or womanhood ).

If the bike doesn't start after 3-4 kicks
I use a rule of 4, that is, if it doesn't start after four kicks, (adhering tightly to the steps above) then do something different. If it doesn't start in four kicks, then put the choke in the "off" or up position and try another 4 kicks. If that doesn't work, open the throttle all the way, choke on, and try it. Then if it still doesn't start, try throttle full open, choke off. This usually does it.

*Note for Electra or owners of bikes with electronic ignitions
With an electronic ignition the ammeter will not dip as stated above because it has no ignition points to draw current. Instead you want to move the kickstarter so that the bike is at the top of the compression stoke (not the exhaust stroke). With the decompresser open you will hear a rush of air coming from the decompresser as the piston rises on the compression stroke. An alternative method it to leave the decompresser shut and kick the bike until you meet stiff resistance. Then you must open the decompresser for a moment to relieve the pressure before you attempt to kick start the bike.
.
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Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
Royal Enfield USA
A Division of Classic Motorworks
www.royalenfieldusa.com
www.enfieldmotorcycles.com
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Spitting Bull
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« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2007, 02:39:37 PM »

An excellent description of the perfect starting-procedure.

I should like to add a little step to RE 1's list - a kind of Step Zero because it has nothing to do with actually starting the bike, but is something which old-timers taught me to do on first startup of the day and I do it it first, before anything else.

This is - pull in the clutch and give the kickstarter a couple of sharp downward kicks until you feel the clutch "break" as the plates separate.  You'll feel a definite loss of resistance in the kickstart lever when this happens.

This will stop that terrible "clunk" and forward lurch when you engage first gear ready to move off. You only need to do it when the bike has been standing overnight or longer.



« Last Edit: July 15, 2007, 02:55:07 PM by Spitting Bull » Logged

One cylinder is enough for anyone.
Velocette
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« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2007, 04:27:03 PM »

Amen from an old? (I will never grow up) BSA Goldstar owner..
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rpnix
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« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2007, 05:04:43 PM »

One thing not mentioned that applies to both kick-starting and grinding the electric start: Be sure the kickstand is up. You can look mighty silly if the switch in the kickstand isn't closed.
--
Bob Nix -- '06 Ural Tourist, '07 Royal Enfield Electra
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Bob Nix -- '06 Ural Tourist, '07 Royal Enfield Electra  <-- Click on the bike to see photos!
Spitting Bull
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« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2007, 04:58:05 AM »

I didn't know you had those helpful kickstands in the USA!  Here in the UK you can start the engine with the stand down, ride away with the stand down, fall off on the first left-hand bend, etc. etc!!  Shocked

Tom
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One cylinder is enough for anyone.
gapl53
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« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2007, 12:16:56 PM »

I've always found whenever kickstarting a motorcycle, and I have done it a lot in the days of pre-electric start (yes I'm that old). That one of the most important steps is to make sure that the piston is just a hair past TDC.
This will make sure that you get some good flywheel momentum which will carry the engine through the compression stroke and into the power stroke. This will insure a start if you are getting fuel and spark at the right time and in the proper amounts.

Greg
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Kevin Mahoney
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« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2007, 01:33:06 PM »

RPNIX made a very good point about the sidestand. The Electra comes with a sidestand standard. It is an option on the Classic Bullets. The one on the Electra have a safety switch. The bike WILL NOT START with the sidestand down. The starter will operate but the ignition is dead. I can't tell you how many starter solonoids we have sold to people who burned them out trying to start the bike with the sidestand down.
Kevin
www.enfieldmotorcycles.com
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Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
Royal Enfield USA
A Division of Classic Motorworks
www.royalenfieldusa.com
www.enfieldmotorcycles.com
www.cafepress.com/enfieldbullet
www.cyclesidecars.com
RagMan
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« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2007, 10:50:23 PM »

Thank you for that perfect routine for starting the brute.. I was completely at a loss as to which way to put the gold lever... Turns out I was doing right.
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aka Indiana Bulleteer.
''99 Classic Bullet. '05 Ural Tourist sidecar rig, converted to 2wd. '05 Harley Davidson Sportster.
Jefferson County, WA
deejay
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« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2007, 02:15:55 PM »

Does kick starting with the throttle open lend itself to more kickbacks?

I can kick start my bike with 1 kick/no effort after it has warmed. I almost always have to use the electric start when it's cold.
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Kevin Mahoney
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« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2007, 10:28:03 AM »

You may want to try to kick the bike through a few times before you kick it cold. They do need some fuel before they will start cold
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Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
Royal Enfield USA
A Division of Classic Motorworks
www.royalenfieldusa.com
www.enfieldmotorcycles.com
www.cafepress.com/enfieldbullet
www.cyclesidecars.com
gapl53
Guest
« Reply #10 on: July 20, 2007, 09:51:14 AM »

I have found that when the bike kicks back at you it is either because of too much throttle, timing advanced to far, or both. Some of the old time bikes had a lever to retard the timing to assist in starting.

Greg
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deejay
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« Reply #11 on: July 27, 2007, 02:52:03 PM »

You may want to try to kick the bike through a few times before you kick it cold. They do need some fuel before they will start cold

Thanks, starts 1st try cold now with this info. Grin
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lunar
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« Reply #12 on: August 30, 2007, 03:15:53 PM »

Hey! these are great advices!

Thanks for the clutch tips, that's just what I needed! Smiley
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dave48
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« Reply #13 on: September 06, 2007, 03:31:58 PM »

A comprehensive and clear guide: as an RE ('93 Bullet 350) owner of all of 2 days, very helpful! Actually, had no difficulty in starting it (keeping it idling another matter, perhaps for my second Post?), but that may just be luck plus a long ago memory of a HIGH compression Rickman Bultaco that was my first ever m'cycle...
And I don't have a decompression lever as far as I can tell!
Nice Forum!
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hutch
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« Reply #14 on: September 06, 2007, 08:42:49 PM »

One thing not mentioned that applies to both kick-starting and grinding the electric start: Be sure the kickstand is up. You can look mighty silly if the switch in the kickstand isn't closed.
--
Bob Nix -- '06 Ural Tourist, '07 Royal Enfield Electra
My 2005 Classic doesn't have the switch you are talking about. It starts up or down, kick or electric. The first thing I did was eleiminate the switch you are talking about on my 2006 650 Savage.   Hutch
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You learn from your mistakes, and I have LEARNED a lot.
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