Front sprocket change

[singhg5]

Matt:

My big socket set has a 45mm socket, and a 48mm socket.  The nut is apparently 46mm.  Singhg5 measured the nut as 46mm, and suggests using a 48mm socket.

I trust him, but can anyone confirm this?  I'm going to grind down the 48mm socket unless I hear otherwise!

What you saw in the video is that I had used 48mm socket, which was the closest size I had. That has been used by many other people before and after the video was made.

As GHG has said it is harder to find exact size socket to fit the big nut which was 46mm on my G5. 

I did NOT suggest that you should use over-sized socket if you have right size tools .

That nut can be taken off WITHOUT ANY socket - now don't go around telling people that Singh suggested do not use sockets  .
 
I have taken these measurments because I could not find all the answers - so I started making videos to document anything I did. That is why I gave both these numbers 46 and 48mm so that the information can be useful for Mr.Exact and Mr.Not-So-Exact (In Indian language we have a special word - 'chalta hai', roughly translated 'Will do').

Moroever I can't trust my memory, so it needs to be photographed and put on the web - a safe place where I can find them !!

[gashousegorilla]

  +1

  My memory ain't the best either....... But I do remember you making all of that quite clear back then.

[NH Oldguy]

I just recently changed to an 18 tooth front sprocket on my G5, in order to install an O-ring chain.  I used the 12 point box end of a 46 mm combination wrench, which has a chamfered edge like the socket photo you show.  It worked fine, but take care to seat your socket squarely and try to get your breaker bar handle (where you push) in-plane with the sprocket to minimize the tendency for your socket to twist off the thin nut when you apply force to the handle.  It did take a pretty substantial torque to break the nut free, but the 20" length of my wrench provided adequate advantage.  I slipped a piece of 2x4 between the spokes of the rear wheel out near the rim and beneath the front end of the swing arm to resist the torque applied to the nut.

It's a good idea to have a new gasket handy for the right side engine cover before you start this job.  You must remove the cover to access the sprocket, and the original gasket may not survive.  I was fortunate in that my gasket came off intact with the cover (I was careful, too), so my new spare is available if you need it.  Rap on the cover with a soft mallet (or?) after loosening the allen head capscrews, and then use a thin blade to carefully separate the gasket from the engine.  Mine was glued to the cover side and separated successfully from the engine side without damage.

Good luck.

[mattsz]

Thanks all for your replies!

Singhg5, I understand what you mean by your "recommendation".  The 48 mm socket is the only thing I have that might do the job, and I have no local shops where I can just pick up a single socket the right size.  Of course I would use the right size tool if I had one, and any of us should do the same!

I think I'll grind the socket down just because I can, and maybe try to locate a correct size "loaner" in the meantime.

NH Oldguy, thanks for the gasket advice.  I actually have a couple of spares handy if I need them...

[gremlin]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WILLIAMS-HEAVY-DUTY1-13-16-X-3-4-SHALLOW-SOCKET-12-PT-MODEL-H-1258-USED-/321128726945?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac4c381a1#ht_526wt_959

[Gypsyjon]

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200384626_200384626?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Hand%20Tools-_-Sockets-_-558712&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=558712&gclid=CNqI8JGmrbcCFVQV7AodyiUABA

[mattsz]

Thanks guys - I'll check them out.

In my usual path of over-thinking a job, I'm wondering now about that little tabbed locking washer that holds the nut.  Looking at a few photos, it appears that one of the tabs should line up with a flat of the nut.  Once I tighten the nut, will this always be the case?  If not, do I just bend the tab closest to a flat, or do I further tighten, if possible, or perhaps loosen the nut again so a tab lines up well?

I've run into this when trying to replace the split pin on the rear axle castle nut - "good and tight" means that the hole in the axle doesn't line up with any of the castle nut's grooves, and I'm hesitant to try to tighten further (especially with my history of breaking things on this bike!).  I end up loosening the castle nut enough to line up a slot with the hole for the split pin...

Singhg5 - although the steps in my manual for removing the right-side cover include removing the oil filter, it looks in your video like you just left your oil filter in place?

[Ducati Scotty]

Remove the nut, reposition the tab washer, re tighten.

Scott