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July 26, 2014, 09:14:51 AM

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Author Topic: Loss of Power/Overheating....Still in Kyrgyzstan and desperate, Help Please!  (Read 657 times)

Bullet Whisperer

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Unless I have missed it somewhere, there has been no mention of checking the compression at the kickstart - what is it like? Is there much resistance going over compression, or does the kickstart go down [too] easily? If you kick over compression very slowly, can you hear any hissing - from inside either port, or down inside the barrel, as the piston moves up the stroke to TDC compression? If so, you have compression being lost at one, or more than one of these areas. What sort of discharge are you getting from the crankcase breather? an excessive amount of blowing might indicate blowby past the piston and rings.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2014, 12:25:29 PM by Bullet Whisperer »


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     You are far past the point of an easy internet advised road side fix. Save yourself expense and heartache by finding a real, experienced mechanic. What ever the cost is now, it will be far less than the repeated repairs and road side strandings you are setting yourself up for.
     You probably have a significant engine issue. Doing a "rebuild" only 3,000 miles after installing a new piston is a sure sign of work that is woefully inadequate by my standards. If it turns out to be a "carbon" issue after only these few miles, the problem will recur soon after decarbonizing.
     When you find your mechanic describe what has transpired and give a list of symptoms. Do NOT diagnose. If you tell the mechanic that you want a part fixed, he may take you at your word. Then you will still have the same problems. Just give him all the info. "Just the facts." But don't tell him what the problem is. Let him do his job.


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Ok, so I think we got the problem solved, but still havent given a proper test run (with our bags up a hill).  First of course we inspected the valve seals with the head off and removed the piston and checked the rings...all good.  We arent sure exactly what it was but could have been any number of the following things or a combination of them:

The oil seal on both valve stems were not put on properly and had moved out of place.  This means a little bit of oil was getting into the combustion chamber each time the valve opened, oil doesnt burn like petrol so it basicallly would dilute the air/petrol mixture and cause loss of compression and power.  Solution: remove valves put new oil seals.  While I was at it I reground the valves and seats but they did not seam to leak before and pretty sure that was not part of the problem, but since I had them out I thought it a good idea. 

The other issue we noticed was with the rockers, the threading on one of the 4 stems that hold the exhaust valve rocker in place had been stripped and it was a bit wobbly, also pretty much all the bolts that hold the rockers down were not very tight at all, this means the the valves might not close completely and can also cause loss of compression.

Like Is aid its hard to say what the exact problem was, just taking the whole head and cyclinder off and putting it back together might have solved something in itself...something we didnt even detect.  Luckily the piston, rings, and barrel looked ok so we didnt do any catastrophic damage while running it in such bad shape.  But she's running smooth now!  Two days from now if all goes well we will be running at 14000 feet!

Thanks again everyone for all the help, very very very much appreciated.  Until next time....
Taking the scenic route from India to Spain...8,000 miles on a classic Enfield!

High On Octane

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Good news!  Carry on and be safe!   :)
Bulldog Kustoms - Denver, CO
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The Blackhawk
1958 Enfield/Indian 711cc Twin

Building the 1st EVER Supercharged RE Twin
FULL RACE motor with ACE Performance

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Dont tighten them more than 5 ft.lb, the rockers I mean. Thats the limit. Otherwise you will have more stripped threads.
2008 RE Classic- Fireball-For Sale

2009 Aprilia Mana


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The valves will close perfectly with the rockers off.