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Author Topic: C5 Sidecar  (Read 2243 times)

UncleErnie

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2010, 03:35:48 PM »
I think I would have handled the piece that involves the horn bracket differently;  either by grinding down the horn socket itself, or cutting out a round hole to go over it.  You maybe want to weld gussets on that piece and re-paint.  In any event- keep a close eye for cracks appearing there in the future.

If you take the right footpeg off,  where does your foot rest?

Most rigs have a half inch to 3/4 inch toe-in.  I'm hoping your half inch of error is to the inside.  atle toe-in helps handling and increases tire wear- especially on the SC tire.  You can tell fairly quickly if you need it by watching for wear on that tire that's not centered and even.

Also, most rigs have a touch of bike lean-out to compensate for prevailing average road crown.   This will be evident when the rig pulls to one side or the other.  Roadways vary, so driving around for trial and error testing is necessary.   It usually takes me about 2 days to get it right.

If you get a furniture dolly and use wood to shim it up even, you can have more mobility for the tub while you're making adjustments.


There's a CD you can download on set-up and driving tips for free here;  www.sidecar.com
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Ducati Scotty

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #16 on: July 14, 2010, 05:15:10 PM »
Ernie, one of the connection rods to the car becomes the inner footpeg.  I think there's a bit of grip tape in the box to put on top for traction.

+1 on what Ernie says about toe in for the car wheel and 2 degrees lean out for the bike.  The toe in is so the rig will turn, the lean out is to compensate for the side to side slope of most roads in the US becuase of the crown formed into them so rain drains to the sides instead of pooling in the middle.

Scott

qgolden

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #17 on: July 15, 2010, 01:47:26 AM »
Thank you UncleEarnie and Ducati Scotty.

Yes the 3/4 inch is toe in.  I remember that from the Sidecar I built back in the 80's.  And yes there is a very small amount of lean out on the Bike. It picks up an additional degree or two when I sit on it.  It is very easy to make relatively small adjustments to the rig.  I can take three wrenches on the road with me when I road test it.

Yes the brace that replaced the foot peg becomes the foot peg.  Although no grip tape came with it.  I am using friction tape at the moment, the same stuff we used to put on base ball bats

Regarding the milled top clamp.  I wrestled with that one for quite a while.  bear in mind it is about an inch and a quarter thick, at least twice as think as the top clamp on my last rig.  Thicker than the top clamp on a Harley Sidecar rig.  The mounts are pretty robust for the amount of weight they are handling and there are 4 of them instead of 3 as on the Harley.  The wheel is also sprung on the Cozy. It uses a torsion system.  Subsequently the car is suspended in rubber cradles.  The Harley system uses no suspension on the frame and leaf springs to suspend the car.  I should think the Cozy system puts far less stress on the mounts than the Harley system does. With the more robust mounts, suspension, and a lighter Sidecar milling the mount does not scare me much.

 I did not want to cut and grind the horn mount stud off of the bike frame because I do not want to permanently modify the bike.  Besides the frame is powder coated so making the alteration and having it be invisible would be next to impossible.   I considered drilling a hole to preserve more of the integrity of the clamp, but decided to mill it, as that would keep it adjustable .  I figured I would set it up by milling the clamp and then order just the top clamp and once everything is settled in and lined up, measure the hole location in the current clamp and replace it.  A 10 minute job to replace it  and not expensive.

Thank you for the link to the United Sidecar Association.  I was not aware of that group.  I will read more there.

Please feel free to offer any additional suggestions you might have...Like I aways says....it takes a village to raise an idiot!      ;D
Any other Enfields in New England?

Ducati Scotty

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #18 on: July 15, 2010, 02:29:56 AM »
The frame ain't powder coated, it's all painted.  Since they went with tank, fenders, and frame all the same color they wanted it the same color, no shades from using paint on one and PC on the other.  It's also the reason Cozy gave up on trying to color match to REs.  The paint process at RE is a high felootin' big deal and it's tough to match it from another manufacturer in another shop.  I'm betting it varies a little from batch to batch too no matter how high felootin' it is ;)

I share the concerns about snapping/cracking the mount.  I agree, it's a very lightweight rig and so the stress is minor and you made a nice round curve to distribute it well.  Still, keep an eye on it.  maybe order another and just drill a hole in it instead of slotting it.

Scott

Ducati Scotty

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #19 on: July 15, 2010, 12:47:28 PM »
I was looking at the pictures and got to thinking...

I was a little weirded out when I first learned that the sidecar removes the internal footpeg and uses one of the connecting struts in its place.  I like things to be symmetric and this just doesn't fall into that category.  Looking at some of your pics, the strut doesn't even seem to be level, though I know you still have some adjusting to do.

I was thinking that once the adjustment is right maybe you could build a custom strut to have just the right configuration to be level and take a stock footpeg rubber.  Then I thought, maybe floorboards?  It probably wouldn't be too hard to cobble together some mounts for a set and then both sides could be the same.  I'm not a huge fan of floorboards on motorcycles but then a hack is a different animal.

Any opinions?

Scott

UncleErnie

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #20 on: July 15, 2010, 02:13:45 PM »
Yes, but I don't really ce about his floorboards as long as he's happy.

That is one thickazz clamp.  Over an inch thick?!  Yow!
Anyhoo, I have a feeling the weight of the machinery doesn't matter as much as the leverage that occurs during turns.  Side loads are big- which is a big reason I like block tires instead of standard round treads.  Anyhoo- like you said;  Just keep an eye on it.  From the pictures, I had no idea that thing is so THICK.

Good luck.  Post pics.
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qgolden

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #21 on: July 16, 2010, 11:10:37 PM »
Ducati Scotty
Thanks for the note on the paint.  That does open up some options, but I don't think I could pain just the area with the horn post anyway and have it look right.  I will be ordering another clamp half and re-mount the top clamp.  It literally can be done in the time it takes to remove 5 bolts. Not need to make any adjustments either.

I do still have to level the car a bit.  I noticed the front of the frame tilts down a bit.  I also think I can level out some of the mounts that currently at an angle. Funny you mentioned the floorboards, I have a set of small floorboards and I dug them out the other night to see if they could be adapted to the Enfield.  I think I have a plan and if I can pull it off the foot area will be symmetrical.  I too strive to have things square and symmetrical.  Must be the machinist in me.  The Hack frame has a small square step on it and my floorboards are just about the same size so I think it will pass the visual test.  I will post pictures as I do the mods.  Not the highest priority yet.

UncleErnie,
Yup that clamp is thick!  But I will keep an eye on it until I replace it.  In looking it over today I think I will need to move it up on the frame a little bit. Glad now I slotted it instead of drilling it or I would be drilling it again.
Any other Enfields in New England?

Ducati Scotty

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #22 on: July 17, 2010, 02:58:23 AM »
Yeah, touch ups are never perfect.  You clamped it, it's not a virgin any more.  Still, an air brush and a good paint match are pretty good in the right hands.  I miss my Dark Ducati.  I used a black Sharpie to touch up my paint.

Scott

qgolden

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #23 on: July 17, 2010, 03:24:10 AM »
Yup, Sharpies are indispensible.  One of the companies that makes touch up paint for autos, (Duplicolor?) makes an Touch up Paint Bottle, with a brush in it and a ball point.  The Ball Point is great for following a deeper scratch.


When I put the clamp on the upper frame, I covered it with a teflon/fibergalss tape.  It is Black and does a good job at protecting the frame from injury.

Quinn
Any other Enfields in New England?

qgolden

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #24 on: July 26, 2010, 09:20:48 PM »
Haven't had a chance to post an update on this project, but it is basically completed.  I will take a couple of photos and post them.

After my last post I began to do the wiring and mount the fender.  Much to my dismay the fender light was mounted facing the wrong direction!  Required drilling an additional hole in the fender to turn it about.  :-\  After fitting the fender light I realized the fender light is a cab roof light or something it has a flat base. The fender of course is curved.  there was a solid 3/8 inch of space in front and back of the light.  Pulled the light back off, put a green wheel on the grinder and began to buff down the lens  to match the fender radius.  Of course once the lens fit the fender it would not fit the base.  Green wheel off, grinding wheel on and the base was ground to match the lens.

Then I noticed the tail light fixture was loose and rattling.  Took it off. found the hardware loosened and the parts rattling around in the lens.  Was missing a nut on one side.  pretty thin plastic inside, reminiscent of bakelite in days of old.

Found the exact same situation with fit of the taillight, had to modify it to make it fit the fender radius.

When I put it back together I was tightening the two nuts that hold the fixture to the fender with my fingers.  6 mm nuts.  and with my fingers mind you, on 6mm nuts, I pulled one of the heads of the mounting bolts right through the plastic frame, breaking it.   Muttering a few profane words, out with the epoxy, re-bedded the entire inside of the light fixture, let it cure and re-mounted it.

Then I dug out the ball of wire they included for wiring.  Dug out my wiring tools and began to strip the wire.  The wire diameter (including insulation) would indicate about an 18 gauge wire.  but when I stripped off the end for the first connector, I found about 4 strands of copper inside.  Each strand maybe  015.  Inadequate as far as I am concerned to run two clearance lights, let alone the headlight I was planning to install on the front of the rig.  So I threw it all out, and got out a roll of Hookup Wire.  The wires that came on the two light fixtures were a little larger so I left them in place, mistake.  :o

Found out that there is a wire with a plug provided inside the head light to tie into the light circuit.  It is a Gray wire with a Female insulated plug on the end.  Good place to hook in. Installed an in-line fuse in the wire to sidecar.  Good thing too ..... :o

Put it all together started it up.  Began a slow test around the yard and up and down the driveway. Noticed the fender light was out.   Back into the shop, pulled the lens.  No problem. Grabbed a meter, ground good, pulled the bulb, no power.  Had power to the side car, not to the fender light.  I cannot fit my hands in the space between the wells and the fender to get to the wires, so I had to pull the fender.  The wheel space can be accessed by pulling the front fender mount bolt and swinging the entire fender up on its rear mount, which is a very nice feature.  Found the wire broken within the insulation, had enough length to shorten it, hook everything back up and go back to road testing.   After a few minutes I noticed the tail light out!  Blown bulb.  Changed bulb, back out for road test.  A few minutes later noticed Fender light out!  :-\  Blown Bulb.  That is both bulbs blown in the first 10 minutes of operation.  New Bulb, cracked the lens tightening the lens cover, because I had to remove material under the lens to make it fit the fender curve. It was easy to over tighten and of course I did.

Put it all back together checked my mounting hardware where the hack mounts to the bike, and since I live on a 30 mph road, I took it out for a road test.  Within a mile of the house both lights out on the hack.     >:(     Starting to get aggravated now.  Back home, pulled them apart and found that both lights had the same issue.  The pigtails fell apart in the bottom of the sockets.  You know how the pigtails are soldered onto little balls that the terminals on the bulb make contact with, well, no little balls to be found.  Wires fell out of pigtails,  hit the housing, blew fuse.  

Hopped into the car and went to a store that sells clearance lights for cars.  For $1.90 each I bought two clearance lights, took them home and stripped the pigtails out of the fixtures.  Installed them into the light fixtures, good to go.

Ran it a few miles, selected some rough roads, flew the chair a few times.  Brought it home checked all the mounts and re-checked the alignment.  Good to go.  Took my daughter for a ride.

So if you decide to get involved in a sidecar project. Get some Black Touch up paint for the mounting brackets, procure a roll of hookup wire and an in-line fuse assembly Before the sidecar comes in, order a fender light and a tail light  from an aftermarked company and plan to throw the stock ones away, they are not worth a nickel and are probably a liability.  I will be ordering a couple in a few days and changing them out.  The only downfall is it likely means drilling more holes in the fender.  I want to change out the tail light on the bike and I do not like the large license plate holder so I am planning to order matching lights for the bike and sidecar. Also note that the stock tail light on the sidecar is just a marker light, it is not a DOT approved tail light and contains no brake light capabilities.  

But the bike looks really cool with the sidecar and in the end that is all that matters!
« Last Edit: July 27, 2010, 11:46:50 AM by qgolden »
Any other Enfields in New England?

gashousegorilla

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #25 on: July 26, 2010, 09:37:10 PM »
Good job Quinn, looking forward to those pictures.
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.

UncleErnie

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #26 on: July 27, 2010, 03:07:57 AM »
 ::)

 ;D  ;D  ;D  ;D  ;D

Lights?   pAH   Flashlight and duct tape for the front, bicycle LED for the back. 
No problem.
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rivers

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #27 on: July 27, 2010, 08:06:58 AM »
Please take good notes and some pics of the install. Love to get some oh craps  or ya hoos from someone that's rolled their own.

edit: oops, guess it's already a done deal and I better keep reading.My apologies. Seems I haven't yet figured out this forum or my computer. Sometimes opening a thread takes me to the most recent post sometimes to the first. Yeah I've endured a few  fleeting sacrificial brain cells in my time :( but I'm generally harmless.  PITA but harmless.

Sorry,
Joe
« Last Edit: July 27, 2010, 09:48:49 AM by rivers »

qgolden

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #28 on: July 27, 2010, 11:56:26 AM »
Hey Joe,
No worries,  when you see a forum topic that interests you, look to the right of the topic, you will see <<1,2, ALL>>.   Clicking "1" opens the first page of threads, "2" the second etc.  I always click "All" by default.  It does not seem to take any longer for the thread to open...

If anyone wants any additional details on the mount feel free to contact me.  I will try to get some complete outdoor photos up this week. 
Any other Enfields in New England?

rivers

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Re: C5 Sidecar
« Reply #29 on: July 29, 2010, 10:05:02 PM »
Thanks for that.. Good write up too.