Fitted some high intensity LED lights instead of the std 4w issue

[LotusSevenMan]

to various parts of the bike!
Results were mixed.
The ones I got for the instruments first. These were 'straight ahead' superbright LEDs. I didn't realise that the ammeter uses a smaller bulb to all the rest so that one didn't fit! The speedo illumination was a bit brighter with a slight blue tinge. Better though than the original 4w bulb so it's staying. The warning light for the turn indicators didn't pass enough current so the turn lights were 'sticky' or stayed on without flashing (due less current being used etc). A resistor might sort that........ later. Using the std bulb again now.
Headlight full beam warning light. Brighter, but not as much as I'd expected. I think the blue plastic lens will only pass a certain amount of light so, ummm.
In respect to these above? Hardly worth the outlay I feel.
BUT..........................
Headlight 'side light' and the two running/marker lights.

Now here was a great improvement IMHO. MUCH brighter and worth the outlay. I  tried both the sort of clouded side marker lenses and a clear set I have and found the clouded ones gave a wider spread of light  without any real loss of 'power' (and actually they appeared brighter) so I've stayed with them.
Difficult to photograph, but I tried tonight. The picture shows the lights on the first position ie. side/marker ones and the small in-headlight one only; no headlight on. The two marker lights are high intensity direct beam LED's while the in headlight one is a wide angle version.
The picture doesn't really do them justice as they are quite piercing so hopefully will help to show my position to myopic car drivers even during daylight hours!!!

[Thumper]

LSM,

I'd posted a question awhile ago about converting my driving/parking marker lights into turn signals.

What you've done is encouraging.

From the benefit of your experience, do you think I could use bulbs similar to what you used - but hook in my front turn signal circuits (instead of the running lights)?

Did the stock bulb socket/receptacle accept the HI bulbs or did you have to splice in new sockets?

Thanks,
Matt

[LotusSevenMan]

Hi Matt,

Well this is the marker/running light bulbs I used.

http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=u9hpw2

You might use a substance like this to colour the glass/plastic lens to a yellow colour.

http://krylon.com/main/product_template.cfm?levelid=5&sub_levelid=8&productid=1797&content=product_details
And
http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=DBS&UPC=724504090243
Forgot to say that these 'bulbs' fit right into the std receptacles with no modification. I do find though that these receptacles are cheap and nasty and getting the bulb to fit in (just push in, down and twist clockwise) can be a right PITA as they don't seem to go in properly. This isn't just these new LED's but std bulbs as well.

[RagMan]

They look Really good, thank you for the links. All I need now is a Brit type headlight, and light switch.. 

[palace15]

Thanks to Singh and his youtube video I found that the bulbs I required are BA9s, but what is the Headlight pilot light code please.
And does anyone know a LED code for thr H3 halogen replacement that is not 46mm long, its too long for the light unit!
Just to say 2010 C5.


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[barenekd]

Be aware that there are two BA9S bulbs. A BA9S-W anda BA9S-W4. The W4 ($2.98) has 4 LEDs in it vs one for the W version. The W version isn't much better than stock, however the W4 version is the one you want if you want to see the turn signal indicator, Bright light indicator, and the Neutral Light.
Amazing amount of difference in the two. You can actually see the W4s in all lighting conditions except the one where you ain't lookin'!
Bare

[AgentX]

Anyone know the bulb size for the ammeter illum?  Is it a BA7s?

[barenekd]

I have some BA7s, I think they were for the MIL box (Ammeter). they work nicely.
Bare