"......The correct amount and the correct wieght for the rider......"Do you have any specific reccomendations? I'm feeling it's time to change my fork oil and haven't a clue what's best. Solo rider, 160 pounds. Several bikers I've mentioned changing - even checking - fork oil to have looked at me with amusement and asked "why?"
Thanks for all the interesting responces.The manual just states "fork oil" 200m/leg. I suppose they mean 200ml/leg.(no viscosity quoted) and to check every 1000 kms., and replace at 12000 kms.(7500 mls.)Is the oil just topped up thro the 2 slotted screws at the top of the forks?
No, you must remove the fork leg to check. I guess it feels too soft for you? How much do you weigh? ( I'll be nice, ). The bikes are made for the average customer, You may have to set things to your liking. I would go to the dealer and talk it over with him. He should be able to set it up the way you like it. I would start by going to a 15 w FORK Oil.
Thanks gahousegorilla. My weights 175lb.Does this mean then, that, by rights , according to the book, I have to remove the forks every 1000kms., to check the oil.Surely this can't be right Can it?
Thanks for all the interesting responces.The manual just states "fork oil" 200m/leg. I suppose they mean 200ml/leg.(no viscosity quoted)
I'm pretty sure the service book says 265 cc's.
Both of you have read correct : Owner's Manual = 200 ml per legService Manual = 265 +/- 2.5 ml per legOwner's Manual = No listed viscosityService Manual = SAE 10W-30This kind of discrepency in two different manuals or sources has been seen in other parameters too. E.g., tyre pressure.
Singh Ji, In the C5 manual, its 195ml per leg and they reduced the level by 5ml for expansion of gasses as 200ml per leg was causing a bit of bouncy moments.I got the fork oil changed today and it wasn't easy. Had to remove booth the forks as the drain plug on the bottom was moving without getting loose. I was a bit cautious to put 195ml as my C5 slag in the front was half a inch higher compared to a new C5. So assuming there still be some oil sticking inside the forks, I used Shell 10w30 with 170ml in each fork. Now I am quite satisfied as I have got just the right handling at front now. Neither to heavy nor to soft. Just the way I wanted all that long.
65ml just to get it all wet would be a LOT of oil. I would suspect it wouldn't take more than 5-10ml.When I do my forks plan to fill with 195 and then measure the height of the oil with the spring out and the fork compressed. Oil height is generally considered a much more accurate way of measuring the amount of oil in a fork. Make sure to pump the fork leg several times to get all the air out and get an accurate reading.Scott
Now I would tend to trust a service manual, over the owner's manual. Like Singh said, there are discrepencies. And correct me if I'm wrong, a cc and ml, or both the same unit of measure? I usually deal in ounces.
In the C5 manual, its 195ml per leg and they reduced the level by 5ml for expansion of gasses as 200ml per leg was causing a bit of bouncy moments.uote] I that because they are using motor oil instead of fork oil?
Quote from: SSR on September 09, 2010, 04:31:16 PMIn the C5 manual, its 195ml per leg and they reduced the level by 5ml for expansion of gasses as 200ml per leg was causing a bit of bouncy moments.uote] I that because they are using motor oil instead of fork oil?I dont know how much difference between the oil will make if they are of same grade.
Guy's, not to further confuse things. But my sercice manual clearly states 265 cc + 2.5 cc each leg. Not + or -.
I dont know how much difference between the oil will make if they are of same grade.
GHG - My astigmatism needs seeing eye dog. My optometrist keeps sending me remineders to visit them for eye exam. I looked again and you are right. It is 265+2.5 cc each leg. For our purposes ml is the same as cc - in terms of volume - and interchangeable.
There wouldn't be any gases released from motor oil, frothing is just churning it a making air bubbles in what's already there.I agree, go with real fork oil and use synthetic. It behaves better as the cold weather comes. Traditional oil makes a fork very stiff as it gets colder, synthetic less so.Scott
All of that is valid but I wouldn't expect any huge differences in gases coming out between engine and fork oil. And, a plunger with tiny holes being forced through oil is a great way to make froth and exactly what's inside our fork. You can create bubbles in a fluid without off gassing. Think ov cavitation on a boat propeller.The reason to go with synthetic is that it behaves more linealy across different environmental temperatures. With dino oil, it gets thick when cold and this makes the fork very stiff. The damping effect of the oil goes up exponentially as temperature goes down. This can make the fork so stiff it is unconfortable or even dangerous.Synthetic oil still gets thicker when cold but not nearly as much as dino oil. Dino oil behaves exponentially, synthetic behaves more closely to a linear increase.Scott